A Closer Look At The Brand-New Zenith G.F.J. 160th-Anniversary Model
This year, many brands are celebrating different milestones. One of the most relevant anniversaries in 2025 is Zenith’s 160th, which you probably read about during Watches and Wonders. Although it is a significant milestone, Zenith treated us to a very select number of anniversary models during the fair. I can greatly appreciate that because it maintains a strong focus. The watch that drew the most attention was, without a doubt, the new Zenith G.F.J. This special 160th-anniversary edition brings back the legendary Zenith caliber 135. On top of that, it is the first model of a full new product line in the brand’s collection. Let’s find out more about the new Zenith G.F.J.
In the build-up to Watches and Wonders, Zenith cleverly deleted all of its posts on social media. This started a big guessing game about what the brand had planned for its 160th anniversary at Watches and Wonders. If you are a Zenith fan, you probably quickly figured out the focus for the Geneva fair. It was fairly easy to recognize that Zenith was going to do something to highlight its impressive track record in observatory chronometer competitions. It’s the brand’s “other” big story next to the legacy of the famous El Primero calibers. With the new G.F.J., Zenith revives the famous caliber 135. And as it turns out, the modernized version of this legendary movement is more than a one-off.
The Zenith G.F.J. — Bringing another story to the current catalog
In my introduction article, I already explained the special story of the Zenith G.F.J. I won’t go over the entire story again but will stick to the headlines so we can talk about the actual watch. Just as a reminder, Zenith’s caliber 135 is the most awarded movement from the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions. The total of 230 chronometry prizes it won over the years is still a record to this day. To be a bit more accurate, that was the caliber 135-O, which the brand created exclusively for chronometry competitions at the Observatories of Neuchâtel, Geneva, Kew Teddington, and Besançon. On top of that, Zenith also made roughly 11,000 regular versions of the caliber 135 for standard-production models.
Zenith recreated this legendary movement to power the new G.F.J. anniversary edition. However, the brand did not forget to update its caliber 135, which is good because more models will house it. For the new version, Zenith kept the classic architecture of the original caliber intact. What immediately stands out is the oversized balance wheel featuring regulation screws, a hairspring with a Breguet overcoil, and the characteristic double arrow-shaped regulator for fine adjustment.
An updated Zenith caliber 135
Most importantly, Zenith completely re-engineered and updated the movement with modern technical solutions and materials. First, the power reserve increased from 40 hours to 72. This was made possible by a new mainspring that uses Générale Ressorts’ Bioflex alloy. Secondly, a new gear train features an optimized tooth geometry to improve the caliber’s efficiency.
Just like the vintage version, the revamped caliber 135 operates at 18,000vph. However, the watchmakers increased the jewel count from 19 to 22 to improve its efficiency. Another modern improvement is the addition of a hacking mechanism. This allows the wearer to set the time exactly to the second. Lastly, the movement is a COSC-certified chronometer, which Zenith regulates to perform within ±2 seconds per day.
The signature Zenith “Brick” pattern
Zenith engraved the caliber with a “Brick” guilloché pattern to spice it up visually. It’s a style of finishing that we don’t often see. It was inspired by the red- and white-painted bricks that form the letters G.F.J. at the Zenith Manufacture. As you probably know, the initials refer to the brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. I like this decorative pattern a lot because it is original and gives off Art Deco vibes. On top of that, the bricks immediately refer to the world of architecture, and I consider that a nice touch.
Contrasting this pattern are more traditional finishing styles, such as circular satin brushing on the barrel cover and the black-polished finish of the crown wheel. Additionally, the large jewels bring welcome touches of color. Overall, the finishing here adds a nice bit of flair to this modern version of a classic movement. The choice that Zenith made to decorate the movement atypically is an approach that I understand and love. But if you are more into the traditional movement finishing, this might take some more time to get used to.
The wonderful attraction of the Zenith G.F.J.
The modern version of Zenith’s caliber 135 is housed in an elegant 39.15mm platinum case with a 10.5mm thickness and a 45.75mm lug-to-lug. The new case design strikes a perfect balance between vintage influences and contemporary relevance. It has a nicely stepped bezel to give it character, and the mix of brushed and polished finishes adds some visual brilliance. I love this case style, and we have to put it into context as this 160th-anniversary G.F.J. is not just a one-off. But we will get to that in a bit.
Inside the case lies a dial that only reveals its true brilliance if you see it in real life. As I explained, the three-part dial features many lovely details. It starts with the combination of the lapis lazuli center and the mother-of-pearl small seconds sub-dial. It’s great to see how well the two complement each other despite their different textures and visual presence. Additionally, the lapis lazuli part only features the applied Zenith star, the brand’s logo, and the model name. Things are deliberately kept simple to maximize the impact.
Seeing is believing…
The third part is the blue outer ring with the stamped brick-style pattern that also graces the movement. This ring holds the applied, faceted hour markers and a series of 40 small hand-applied beads that serve as minute markers. These well-executed yet functional details add lots of sophistication to the dial. The thin, faceted, and pointed baton hands nicely round out the overall aesthetic. They make it easy to read the time while maintaining an elegant appearance. The small seconds hand is also simple in its style, so the mother-of-pearl sub-dial gets maximum room to shine.
This cleverly designed dial is most certainly the great eye-catcher of this 160th-anniversary G.F.J. We all agree here at Fratello that seeing the watch in the metal makes all the difference. That’s when the details truly come to life, and the bright blue shades make the greatest impact. I also mentioned in my intro article that Zenith will create 160 pieces of this limited edition, each of which will come on a blue leather strap to match the dial.
The significance of the Zenith G.F.J.
But if you want the most impactful version of this watch, you can also order it on a full-platinum bracelet. We got a preview of the bracelet in Geneva, and that takes it to a completely different level. The seven-row bracelet is wonderfully detailed and super comfortable, and it elevates the watch’s presence tremendously. Seeing the watch on the bracelet is one of the many highlights of this year’s Watches and Wonders for me. I was mildly excited when I wrote the introduction article based on the press kit, but it didn’t include any images of the bracelet. However, I was quickly sold when I finally saw the watch on the bracelet and all the different details that make the dial an absolute joy to behold.
That excitement grew even more when Zenith announced that the G.F.J. was not a one-off creation. As the brand explained during Watches and Wonders, this first G.F.J. model marks the start of a new product line. The plan is to release at least one G.F.J. model powered by the revised caliber 135 per year. Future models will feature the same case in various precious metals. Additionally, we will see different dials for the new watches. It’s an exciting thought, and I can’t wait to see what is next. Parallel to the introduction of the G.F.J., Zenith also announced that the current Elite line will be discontinued. It makes sense as the Elite feels like the least relevant product line in the Zenith collection.
Where the Zenith G.F.J. fits in
More importantly, the new G.F.J. line adds relevance based on its story and design. I think it is a clever move by Zenith to share its other historically important story. Caliber 135 has a great legacy that shows there’s more to Zenith than the El Primero. On top of that, it makes sense that the brand will make this product line a higher-end proposition altogether. In last week’s Fratello Talks episode recapping Watches and Wonders, Robert-Jan mentioned that the G.F.J. line could be what the L.U.C collection is to Chopard, which is a great idea.
This would allow Zenith to come up with a series of watches powered by the modern caliber 135 while directly tapping into the heart of the brand’s history. On top of that, I like the modern updates and the incredible finishing of the caliber.
A watch that makes me curious to find out more
Gerard mentioned in his article covering his favorites of Watches and Wonders that, movement-wise, the G.F.J. is not modern enough to be a successor of anything from the past. I strongly disagree with our resident Fratello veteran on that. The new caliber is 100% the modern version of the classic Zenith 135. Sure, the architecture of a time-only watch is not as visually exciting as a chronograph. However, the realization that this specific movement was able to win an astounding number of observatory chronometer prizes gives its modern successor purpose and relevance. Whether its architecture is visually appealing or not becomes a matter of personal aesthetic taste at that point.
With the news that we can expect more G.F.J. watches, it immediately makes me wonder whether we will see different finishes and styles for upcoming models. I’ve gone on record saying that I think Zenith currently has the best creative team in the industry and always finds great ways to push boundaries while respecting the brand’s rich history. Therefore, I do not doubt that we will see some more awesome follow-ups to this first G.F.J. For now, the 160th-anniversary model is a perfect example of the work of Zenith’s brilliant creative team and one of the great introductions of this year’s Watches and Wonders.
