A Hands-On Look At The New Baltic HMS 002, Bicompax 002, And MR01 In Gold PVD
I adore the combination of black and gold. There is something magical about that combo that immediately draws me in. So when this trio of Baltic Gold PVD watches landed on my desk, I was keen on taking them for a spin. The black and gold colors in combination with three of the brand’s much-praised vintage-inspired models look like a winning formula, especially knowing that each of the three models goes for well under €1,000. Is this another home run from Baltic? It’s time to find out more.
When I say that I love the combination of black and gold, I usually mean real gold. So when Nacho handed me these, my first question was whether Baltic had dared to create gold watches. That turned out to remain a wishful thought, but I also understand why Baltic did not opt for real gold. It would feel out of character unless it were a one-off piece for Only Watch. The brand is well known for creating affordable timepieces. This time, it is no different. But does that hurt the overall impact of these three models? That was the question to answer.
Three familiar Baltic models in gold PVD
Straight out of the box, all three watches look impressive. The classic looks of these three timepieces work brilliantly with the black and gold tones. The first of the three models is the Baltic MR01. It stands out immediately as the gold PVD case with a black dial and gold Breguet numerals pops.
The second model is the Baltic Bicompax 002. This 1940s-inspired chronograph looks refined and classy with this new aesthetic. It turned out to be the model that I wore the most.
Lastly, there is the Baltic HMS 002. This dressy three-hander is visually linked to the Bicompax 002 and also looks great in black and gold. All three timepieces come fitted with a black Italian Saffiano calf leather strap with a gold PVD buckle to complete the classy look.
The Baltic MR01 Gold PVD
Let’s briefly go over the three individual models. The MR01 has a modest 36mm stainless steel case with a gold PVD coating. In terms of finishing, the case features a polished bezel and lugs, while the brushed case band delivers some welcome contrast. The 36mm case measures 9.9mm thick (including the domed acrylic glass), 44mm long, and 20mm between the lugs. If you have seen the MR01 up close, you know it’s a stylish but modest timepiece that works best on smaller wrists.
Consequently, I had my reservations because the stainless steel MR01 is rather small on my 19cm wrist. Surprisingly, this new version has a lot more wrist presence, making it nicer to wear on my bigger wrist. That is, of course, the result of the gold color. The MR01 combines a glossy black dial with polished and applied Breguet numerals. The guilloché small seconds dial at 7 o’clock and the circular brushed railroad minute track offer a bit of contrast in the finish. But most of all, the dial is a nice, deep black with gold-colored elements contrasting it very well.
The Hangzhou CAL5000a micro-rotor movement
Turning the watch around will give you a great view of the Hangzhou CAL5000a micro-rotor movement. This automatic caliber has a 42-hour power reserve, and it powers the other MR01 models we have seen before. It’s a joy to see the movement with its gold rotor, blue screws, perlage, and circular striping on the bridges and the rotor. For maximum impact, the crystal is made as large as possible, and the case back attaches to the case with six screws.
As Nacho said in his review of the stainless steel model, if you see the movement, it’s hard to believe that the watch is so affordable. This model will be available for €545 before taxes. If I add local Dutch taxes, that comes to roughly €659 for this great-looking piece. Baltic will begin shipping it out in the second week of December.
The Baltic HMS 002 Gold PVD
The second model is the Baltic HMS 002 Gold PVD. The Art Deco style inspires its looks to make for a great three-hander. Due to the heavily domed crystal, the watch has a 38mm stepped case that is 13mm thick in total.
However, at 10mm thick without the crystal, the HMS 002 feels like a slim watch. The case also has a 47mm lug-to-lug length, a 20mm lug spacing, and a 50m water resistance rating. Finishing it off is a nicely knurled crown with the Baltic “B” engraved.
The Art Deco-inspired sector dial features a mix of glossy and circular-brushed finishes. The dial’s center is glossy black, while the polished and applied gold-colored numerals are placed on top of a brushed black circle surrounded by gold printing. Just like with the MR01, the difference in finishes is subtle compared to the black and gold contrast.
The back of the watch provides a good view of the Miyota 8315 movement. This automatic caliber operates at 21,600vph, has 21 jewels, and offers a 60-hour power reserve. It is part of Miyota’s Standard Automatic series and has a standard accuracy of -20/+40 seconds per day. As mentioned, the comes with the same black Saffiano leather strap as the other two and will sell for €385, excluding taxes. Delivery of this piece will start at the end of January 2024.
Baltic Bicompax 002 Gold PVD
The third and last model is the Baltic Bicompax 002 Gold PVD. This charming 1940s-inspired chronograph has all the right retro vibes to make it my favorite of the three models. Like the HMS 002, it features a 38mm stepped case and measures 13mm thick and 47mm from tip to tip. The 20mm lug spacing and strap are identical, as is the 50m water resistance rating.
Just like the HMS 002, the elegantly shaped case measures 10mm thick without the crystal, making it feel slimmer than the watch’s 13mm overall thickness would suggest. It has horizontally brushed sides, circular-brushed lugs, and a polished bezel. And yes, this one also comes with a branded crown. The black dial combines the finishes of the previously discussed models, resulting in a very nice mixture
The sector dial has a glossy black center and a circular-brushed ring that holds the polished applied numerals. Inside the chronograph registers, we find the same circular graining as the sub-dial on the MR01. It’s a great dial design graced by the beautiful leaf hands, finishing the look perfectly.
The Seagull ST1901 chronograph caliber
Inside the case, Baltic uses the hand-wound Seagull ST1901 movement. This chronograph caliber features a column wheel, operates at 21,600vph, and offers a 42-hour power reserve. Its layout provides running seconds at 9 o’clock and a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock. The sweeping central chronograph hand starts moving when you hear the firm click of pressing the pump-style pusher at 2 o’clock. Another firm click stops it, and you reset the timepiece with an easy pusher press at 4 o’clock.
The movement is nice to see through the crystal, and it looks neatly finished. It makes for a tempting offer on the black Saffiano strap at €565 before taxes. This watch will begin shipping in the second week of December.
Final thoughts on the trio of Baltic Gold PVD models
These three watches present an aesthetic that I adore and that perfectly complements their vintage-inspired looks. So I understand why Baltic has created this special trio of gold PVD models. After spending time with all three, my favorite one to wear was the Bicompax 002. Its 38mm size fits my wrist perfectly. Unfortunately, while I love the looks and improved wrist presence of the MR01 in gold PVD, its 36mm diameter still feels a tad too small for my wrist.
The charm of a vintage chronograph also struck a chord with me regarding missing watches in my collection. A classic hand-wound chrono is high on my wish list. Could it be the Baltic Bicompax 002 Gold PVD? It very well could, though the attraction to a true vintage piece is greater.
Baltic has still done everything right in bringing back those vintage vibes for all three models. The added value of the black and gold aesthetic is that it increases the retro charm even more. Combined with modern movements and affordable prices, these are some great pieces if you like the look of black and gold but don’t want to spend the money required for a real gold piece. I’m sure that the looks of these three models will resonate with many people, resulting in yet another hit for Baltic.
For more information, visit the official Baltic website. In the comments section, let us know which of these three models is your favorite.
