A Look Back At Vincent’s Top 20 Microbrand Watches Of 2024

As someone who solely writes about watches from micro/independent brands, I’m pleased to share my list of their 20 best releases of 2024. And there is a lot to talk about, of course. The list below is simply organized in alphabetical order by the brand name. All watches listed are ones I’ve handled in the metal. Many others out there are worth your while too, but I have set a strict rule for myself of only writing about watches I’ve had experience with. This is why you will also mostly find photos I took here. Some of the photos were shot by colleagues at Fratello or provided by the brand. However, I did indeed handle all of these watches.

Because there are 20 models to review, I will share only the most basic information about each one. I will also share one or a few elements that truly stood out to me. All dimensions are listed as diameter × lug-to-lug × thickness. I’ve also listed the prices in the brands’ respective default currencies (with some euro equivalents for less familiar ones). So, shall we get started?

Top 20 microbrand watches of 2024: The Beaucroft Element (United Kingdom)

The Beaucroft Element is one of the most recent releases on this list. It’s a GADA-style watch with good specs and modern dimensions. It is also Beaucroft’s version of a tough and aesthetically versatile everyday sports watch. Core specs include the Miyota 9039 caliber (4Hz frequency, 42-hour power reserve), 200m water resistance, a sapphire crystal, and a hardening coating on the case and bracelet. It measures 39.5 × 46.5 × 11.6mm and has a 20mm lug spacing. The Beaucroft Element retails for €799 and comes in a total of six colors. Standout elements are the perfectly symmetrical dial and the softness of the rounded hands and hour markers. 

Beaufort Pulsatimer (New Zealand)

Reviewed by Thor, the Beaufort Pulsatimer is a dual-register mechanical chronograph that errs on the side of minimalism. As its name indicates, it features a pulsometer scale, a tool historically used by doctors. It also has a running seconds sub-register at 9 and a 30-minute totalizer at 3 o’clock. Core specs include the manual-winding Sellita SW510M BH caliber (4Hz frequency, 63-hour power reserve), a box-domed sapphire crystal, and a vertically brushed dial. It measures 39 × 47 × 13.8mm and has a 20mm lug spacing. The Beaufort Pulsatimer comes in four colors and starts at NZ$2,370 (roughly €1,203). Standout elements are the minimalist look and the hollowed but framed applied hour markers. 

Belhamel Contra A39 (United Kingdom)

Belhamel is a new brand, and the Contra A39 is its first collection. It is a reasonably sized, classic-looking diver made tough and designed to be timeless. And I must say it’s indeed a well-made offering for the surprisingly reasonable asking price of £399. Visually, the Contra A39 is also classic in the sense that it will fly under the radar whether you’re wearing the black or blue variant. Core specs include the Miyota 9039 caliber (4Hz frequency, 42-hour power reserve), 300m water resistance, a double-domed sapphire crystal, and a generous application of Super-LumiNova BGW9. It measures 39 × 47 × 11.8mm and has a 20mm lug spacing. The watch’s standout elements are its outstanding finish and especially the buttery-smooth bezel action. 

Circula Facet (Germany)

I’m a big fan of Circula, and I thoroughly enjoyed Thomas’s review of the Facet. The concept behind this watch was to display the greatest number of facets possible and, therefore, the least amount of rounded corners. Indeed, there are facets on the dial, case, and bracelet, and in multiple areas for each. Core specs include the La Joux-Perret G100 caliber (4Hz frequency, 68-hour power reserve), palladium-plated hands, a multilayered and multitextured dial, 100m water resistance, and a sapphire crystal. It measures 38 × 44.5 × 10mm and has a 20mm lug spacing. The Circula Facet comes in three colors and retails for €1,690 on a strap and €1,990 / €2,060 on a bracelet (two types of clasps). The standout element is the sharp and intense contrast between brushed and polished surfaces on the facets. 

Draken Peregrine (New Zealand)

Draken is a relatively new brand that specializes in ultra-tough and reasonably priced tool watches. The Peregrine is its latest release and a take on the ubiquitous pilot’s watch but on steroids. It comes with two styles of black or white dials and regular steel or DLC-coated exteriors for eight variants in total. I reviewed the “Version B” in steel with a black dial. Core specs include the Miyota 9130 caliber (4Hz frequency, 40-hour power reserve) a sapphire crystal, 100m water resistance, Viton gaskets, and insane applications of Super-LumiNova C3 (Grade X1). It measures 42 × 49 × 12.9mm and has a 22mm lug spacing. The Draken Peregrine starts at US$549 on a strap or US$599 on a bracelet. This watch’s standout element is its intrinsic robustness, which can be seen and felt in the hands. 

Elgé Chamonix (France)

The Elgé Chamonix is my wild card here as the brand was recently revived by the same person who revived Wolbrook/Douglas. Therefore, it’s not a brand created from scratch. It was founded in the 1950s in the French Alps, and this model was the brand’s staple collection for mountaineers. Core specs include a French-made France Ébauche caliber (4Hz frequency, 44-hour power reserve), “Magnum” hour and minute hands, 150m water resistance, a domed sapphire crystal, and generous applications of lume. It measures 38 × 44 × 11.6mm and has a 20mm lug spacing. The Elgé Chamonix retails for €976. Its standout element is the super bold and ultra-legible dial.  

Fleux FLX003 (Canada)

I’m a big fan of Fleux and loved taking a look at the FLX003. It’s a skin diver featuring modern tech and a design inspired by the 1960s Omega Seamaster 300 “Big Triangle” ref. 165.024. Hence, there’s a large inverted triangle at 12 and small Arabic numerals at the 3, 6, and 9 positions. Core specs include the Seiko NH38A caliber (3Hz frequency, 41-hour power reserve), a double-domed acrylic crystal, plenty of “Old Radium” lume, and 200m water resistance. It measures 39 × 47 × 14mm and has a 20mm lug spacing. The Fleux FLX003 retails for US$499. Standout elements include its gorgeous and strong vintage design and comparatively affordable price point. 

Horizon Nemo (Singapore)

Horizon is best known for making unique-looking tool watches inspired by Jules Verne’s incredible stories. No two models look the same, and each has a bespoke design language. The Nemo is a robust diver that comes with a Sellita SW200-1 caliber (4Hz frequency, 41-hour power reserve), top-hat sapphire crystal, butterfly clasp with custom-made “MicroSliders,” 200m water resistance, and a multipart case construction. It measures 40 × 47 × 11.85mm and has a 22mm lug spacing. There are seven variants of the Horizon Nemo, and each retails for US$1,100. The standout element is the fact that most of what you see is unique to Horizon. 

Hz Watches HZ.02 Chronograph (Australia)

Micro and independent horology is booming in Australia, and Hz Watches is one of the latest to take the stage. The brand specializes in quartz-regulated timekeeping devices and the celebration of this technology. Hz Watches’ second collection is simply named the HZ.02 Chronograph, and it promises lots of bang for your buck. Core specifications include the Seiko VK63A meca-quartz caliber (viewable thanks to a sapphire case back), 100m water resistance, a Grade 5 titanium case, and a box-type sapphire crystal. It measures 37 × 43 × 11.5mm and has a 20mm lug spacing. The Hz Watches HZ.02 Chronograph comes in five color variants and is available for a pre-order price of AU$379 (approximately €229). Standout elements are the unbeatable spec-to-price ratio and the see-through case-back. 

Lorier Rambler (United States)

Lorier is one of the most respected American micro/indie brands, and its designs are deeply anchored into vintage horology. Lorier’s latest limited release, the Rambler, was designed in partnership with Janus Motorcycles, which manufactures custom-made, vintage-inspired motorbikes. The Rambler, therefore, is meant to explore the open road. Core specifications include the Miyota 90S5 caliber (4Hz frequency, 42-hour power reserve) a domed acrylic crystal, 100m water resistance, and light orange Super-LumiNova. It measures 36 × 44 × 11mm and has a 20mm lug spacing. The Lorier Rambler retails for US$499. Standout elements are its modest proportions and the delightful orange-on-cream color combination. 

Monbrey MB2 Kenkyū (Hong Kong)

There are more and more great watches coming out of Hong Kong, and Monbrey is the epitome of that new trend. Another trend is that of everyday sports watches, and the brand’s second collection, the MB2 Kenkyū, is a solid contender. Core specifications include “jeweled” steel or engraved mother-of-pearl dials, 100m water resistance, a regulated Miyota 9039 caliber (4Hz frequency, 42-hour power reserve), a soft iron cage, an on-the-fly micro-adjustment mechanism, and a sapphire crystal. The Monbrey MB2 Kenkyū comes in seven variants and can be yours for US$549 on pre-order. It measures 37.5 × 45 × 11.8mm and has a 20mm lug spacing. Standout elements include the starry jeweled steel dial and the highly detailed multifaceted hour markers. 

Neotype LM02 Type C Chronograph (France)

Some brands set very specific goals for themselves and work hard to reach them. Neotype wants to make good tool watches. The brand’s first collection, the LM01, was its vision for the ultimate diver. The LM02 is Neotype’s vision for the ultimate multipurpose utilitarian timekeeping device. Core specifications include the Seiko VK64 meca-quartz chronograph caliber, 200m water resistance, a 3.5mm domed sapphire crystal, sandwich dial construction, plenty of Super-LumiNova, and screw-down chronograph pushers. The Neotype LM02 Type C comes in four versions and starts at €630. It measures 41 × 48.5 × 13.8mm and has a 22mm lug spacing. Standout elements include the layered case profile and the overall tough appearance. 

Prevail Onward Future Field Watch (United States)

Quartz calibers and bespoke shapes shouldn’t scare you. And those are only some of the good things Prevail has to offer with its first collection, the Onward Future Field Watch. For US$275, you get a watch designed by industrial designer Matt Smith-Johnson and a long list of good specs. These include the Ronda 513 caliber, a sapphire crystal, a material-blasted case, fixed strap bars, 200m water resistance, and loads of Super-LumiNova C3 on the hands and markers. The Prevail Onward Future Field Watch measures 42 × 47.5 × 11mm and has a 20mm lug spacing. It comes in three colors and two designs. Standout elements include the bespoke case shape and dial as well as this watch’s incredible value for money. 

Retter Mistral (United States)

Retter only releases one model per year as each one feels quite special and different. The brand’s first model, the 22, was an integrated-bracelet sports watch with obvious inspiration from the Vacheron 222. The Mistral, however, is a new thing in its own right, akin to a concept car but for watches. Core specifications include a regulated Retter caliber 105, which is a modified ETA 7001 (3Hz frequency, 42-hour power reserve), a sapphire-sandwich construction, Super-LumiNova X1 lume, and a multipart case. It measures 38 × 42.4 × 7.4mm (including the crystal) and has a 20mm lug spacing. The Retter Mistral sold for US$1,595, but all three versions sold out. Standout elements include the multilevel dial, its gold-filled CNC-machined grooves, and the cow-horn lugs.  

RZE Fortitude GMT-S (Singapore)

RZE needs no introduction here as we routinely cover the brand’s latest releases. The Fortitude GMT-S was my favorite last year and my ultimate RZE model from the brand’s entire catalog. It is a mature release chock-full of outstanding specs. These include the Miyota 9075 GMT caliber (4Hz frequency, 42-hour power reserve), a Grade 2 titanium case and bracelet coated with the brand’s UltraX compound, loads of Super-LumiNova BGW9 and C3, 100m water resistance, an on-the-fly micro-adjustment mechanism, and a sapphire crystal. It measures 41 × 47 × 12mm and has a 20mm lug spacing. The RZE Fortitude GMT-S comes in two colors and retails for US$699. Standout elements are the overall lightness of the watch and its unique design. 

Sphaera Epoch Sport Monochrome (Austria)

Austrian brand Sphaera is the type that does things seriously but doesn’t take itself seriously (have you heard of the Desk Diver?). The Epoch is its second collection and comes in two versions, the Rusty and the Monochrome, the latter being my favorite. It’s a modern explorer-type watch, most of which is handmade in Austria. Core specifications include a regulated STP 1-21 caliber (4Hz frequency, 40-hour power reserve), a box-type sapphire crystal, 200m water resistance, excellent applications of Super-LumiNova BGW9, and a bead-blasted case. The Epoch Sport Monochrome measures 40.5 × 48 × 12mm with a 20mm lug spacing, and it retails for €1,890. Standout elements include its modern, bespoke design and monochromatic appearance. 

Tornek-Rayville Type 7B Blakjak (United States)

Tornek-Rayville was revived a few years back to continue its tradition of making sturdy military watches. The Type 7B “BlakJak” is the redesign of a never-produced 1990s military watch, the first of this kind created to be worn on a steel bracelet. It’s part diver, part field watch, and full of functionality. Core specifications include the Seiko NH36 caliber (3Hz frequency, 41-hour power reserve), a sapphire crystal, 200m water resistance, good applications of Super-LumiNova BGW9, and robust construction. It measures 42.5 × 49 × 13.2mm and has a 22mm lug spacing. The Tornek-Rayville Type 7B “Blakjak” retails for US$895. Standout elements are its superlative legibility, awesome functionality, and fascinating history.

Treiber T54SL Gullwing (United States)

Another hyper-focused brand is Treiber, which designs watches inspired by iconic cars. The T54SL Gullwing is a modern, vintage-inspired timekeeping device that pays homage to the Mercedes-Benz of the same name. Its case has a unique profile, and the dial features several design elements inspired by the car’s interior. Core specifications include a top-grade Sellita SW200-1 caliber (4Hz frequency, 38-hour power reserve), sapphire-sandwich construction, 100m water resistance, and Super-LumiNova C1. It measures 39 × 45.3 × 11.9mm and has a 22mm lug spacing. The Treiber T54SL Gullwing has a pre-order price is US$1,099. Standout elements are the fully car-themed case design and the dial layout. 

Ubiq Dual Series 01 (Singapore)

Ubiq is yet another brand from Singapore, and its first collection constitutes the perfect all-around diver. The Dual Series 01 is well specced and well made, and each version (five in total) comes with a unique color scheme. Core specifications include the Miyota 9015 caliber (4Hz frequency, 42-hour power reserve), 200m water resistance, Super-LumiNova C1 and BGW9 lume, an on-the-fly micro-adjustable clasp, and a flat piece of sapphire crystal. It measures 39 × 47 × 11.5mm and has a 20mm lug spacing. The Ubiq Dual Series 01 retails for US$649. Standout elements are the bespoke dial and case design as well as the superb construction. 

Zealandic Iceborne (New Zealand)

Lastly, we have the Zealandic Iceborne, a nature-inspired field watch with a deeply textured dial. I closely followed the creation of this model (as a watch enthusiast), so it feels special to me. Its design is straightforward, nicely executed, legible, and bold. Core specifications include the Miyota 9039 caliber (4Hz frequency, 42-hour power reserve), a double domed sapphire crystal, 200m water resistance, and an excellent application of Super-LumiNova BGW9 Grade X1. It measures 39 × 47 × 12mm and has a 20mm lug spacing. The Zealandic Iceborne comes in three colors and retails for NZ$739 (roughly €403). Standout elements include the dial texture, bold hands, and hour markers. 

Final thoughts

Last year was certainly a good one for micro/independent brands and watch enthusiasts like us. Although this list only contains models I’ve handled in the metal, there are many more for you to explore. From what I can tell, brands are diversifying the type of watches they offer and are becoming more creative, both from the standpoint of offering more singular designs and better-made products. We also find watches with a vast range of non-luxury price points, although prices are generally higher than they were in 2023. Do you have a favorite on this list? Or is there a release that you were particularly fond of? Please share your thoughts in the comments section below.