I dare say there wasn’t a single French Air Force pilot in the 1950s who could’ve foreseen a blue sky with pixelated white clouds in the sub-dials of his Type 20. Airain’s Tom van Wijlick, however, dared to do something different with one of the most iconic pilot’s watches of all time by contacting Romaric André, the visionary behind seconde/seconde/, for a collaboration. The result is the Airain × seconde/seconde/ Type 20 “Up in the Air.” This twin-register chronograph is a reimagined tool watch with a whimsical style that embodies the spirit of aviation and French heritage.

In the 1950s, Airain was one of the original manufacturers of the Type 20 pilot’s watch alongside Breguet, Dodane, Auricoste, and Vixa. Now, in 2024, Airain is the most original manufacturer of the Type 20 thanks to a collaboration with Romaric André of seconde/seconde/. André is an artist who rises above the level of a watch modder. When he decides to restyle a watch, the result is a delicate balancing act between fun and art. It is always original and often layered. The watch he worked on with Frederique Constant tells the story of a traditional manufacture in a very witty and clever way, and there are plenty more collabs that are worth a look. On top of that, a seconde/seconde/ creation has an instantly recognizable aesthetic. The new Airain × seconde/seconde/ Type 20 “Up in the Air” proves that point.

Airain × Seconde/Seconde/ Type 20 "Up in the Air"

Seeing Paris from above with the Airain × seconde/seconde/ Type 20 “Up in the Air”

The base of the Airain × seconde/seconde/ Type 20 “Up in the Air” remains the 39.5mm bezel that slightly overhangs the 39mm case. This 50m-water-resistant housing measures 14.7mm thick (10.85mm without the crystal) and 47.7mm from lug to lug. Inside it, the matte anthracite dial shows airplane portholes for sub-dials that offer a view of pixelated 8-bit clouds and a subtle glimpse of the Eiffel Tower’s tip in the left one. The illusion of looking through a porthole has been created by giving the sub-dials rhodium-polished edges.

Airain × Seconde/Seconde/ Type 20 "Up in the Air" sub-dial close-up

The original 1950s look of the watch and contemporary, cartoon-like illustrations create a contrast that doesn’t look painful. Instead, the mix between classic horology and 8-bit pixel art clouds causes a tickling sensation. You could ask yourself if humor belongs in watches, but this watch is not for you if you do. “Up in the Air” is a lighthearted watch that stands out among an often-solemn watch crowd. Did you see that the Airain brand logo at 12 o’clock only has the “Air” part underlined and a small arrow pointing upward to it?

A limited edition

The Airain × seconde/seconde/ Type 20 “Up in the Air” will be available in a limited run of 88 pieces and cost €3,450. Starting Sunday, July 14th, the watch will be available on Airain’s official website and through selected retailers. The first 44 pieces will be ready for delivery in August, and the second 44-piece batch will follow in September.

Those who purchase it will get an artistic and fun pilot’s chronograph with a serious “heart.” In a way, this watch is obligated to be precisely that. Founded in 1934, Airain stems from the famous French watchmaking family Dodane, whose legacy as watchmakers began in 1857. Airain made a name for itself by producing reliable and precise pilot chronographs, which is why the modern Type 20 should have specs reflecting that.

Airain × Seconde/Seconde/ Type 20 "Up in the Air" on wrist

Therefore, apart from the 50m-water-resistant case with a domed sapphire crystal on top, you get an AMT caliber AM2. This hand-wound chronograph movement is based on Valjoux architecture and features a 63-hour power reserve and the historically accurate flyback function. Speaking of historical accuracy, the presence of luminous hands and Arabic numerals also follows the Type 20’s original requirements.

Airain × Seconde/Seconde/ Limited Edition Type 20

First hands-on impression of the Airain × seconde/seconde/ Type 20 “Up in the Air”

On the wrist, the Type 20 “Up in the Air” fits just like the Airain Type 21 and 20 chronographs. It is slightly larger than the original 38mm Type 20, but it feels like a modern watch. There’s no room for flimsiness. The modern-day Airain Type 20 is a solid, contemporary watch with nicely finished details. Take the finishing of the bezel, for instance. The subtle brushing with a polished chamfer adds refinement to the original style. So do the lacquered markings and numerals on the bidirectional 12-hour bezel.

The black nubuck strap has a vintage look and subtle contrasting stitching that matches the watch perfectly. This leather strap seems like it will develop a nice patina over time too. One thing I want to point out is the rather large, rectangular pin buckle. Yes, it’s “just” a pin buckle, but its design and finishing make it stand out. While it is naturally instrumental, as all pin buckles should be, the large size and shape provide some extra comfort.

I realize that the Airain × seconde/seconde/ Type 20 “Up in the Air” will probably be nobody’s first luxury watch. However, it could well be the very first watch you buy that will put a little smile on your face every time you wear it. By the way, it also comes with a black NATO-style strap with a light blue stripe that looks more casual/fun than the leather option.

You can learn more about the Airain × seconde/seconde/ Type 20 “Up in the Air” limited edition on the Airain website.

Watch specifications

Brand
Model
Airain × seconde/seconde/ Type 20 "Up in the Air"
Reference
427.406
Dial
Matte black with "Old Radium" Super-LumiNova X1 Arabic numerals and airplane-porthole-like sub-dials showing a light blue sky with 8-bit pixel-art clouds
Case Material
Stainless steel
Case Dimensions
39.5mm (diameter) × 47.7mm (lug-to-lug) × 14.7mm (thickness with crystal, 10.85mm without)
Crystal
Domed sapphire
Case Back
Stainless steel with engraving, screwed in
Movement
AMT AM2: hand-wound flyback chronograph, 28,800vph frequency, 63-hour power reserve, 23 jewels, column wheel
Water Resistance
5 ATM (50 meters)
Strap
Black nubuck leather (20mm) with vintage-style stitching and pin buckle, additional NATO-style strap in black and light blue
Functions
Time (hours, minutes, small seconds), chronograph (30-minute counter and central seconds with flyback function), bidirectional 12-hour bezel
Price
€3,450
Special Note(s)
Limited to 88 pieces