Are Anti-Hype Watches Worth Your Time? — Featuring Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tudor, IWC, And More
Anti-hype watches provide an opportunity to look further afield at options that fly under the radar despite hailing from renowned brands. Today, I am looking at examples of such watches that I would consider adding to my private collection. When thinking about anti-hype watches, it was important to me to explore options I found interesting, physically attractive, and emotionally appealing. But first, I think I need to explain what I mean by “anti-hype watches” and how I came to formulate this list.
Yes, anti-hype watches are worth your time
Before we begin, I want to make a very brief case as to why anti-hype watches are worth your time. The idea that we gravitate towards what is popular is a known element of human psychology. In fact, I am as guilty as the rest of the folks who jumped on the bandwagon when the blue Tudor Black Bay 58 was one of the hottest watches around. I don’t regret purchasing that watch because it was for a significant birthday, and I have worn it pretty much every other day since buying it. However, it is good to recognize some of the psychology in these decisions, and the sheer breadth of coverage at the time no doubt played a role in my decision.
Today, I am highlighting a few watches that, while far from unknown, I would argue are “anti-hype.” By this term, I mean watches that don’t involve the hype we associate with some specific brands or models. There is a real advantage in seeking out watches that are not part of the hype, including finding good deals. The other factor is that there is something particularly enjoyable about wearing a watch you will likely not see as often as, say, a Rolex Submariner, Omega Speedmaster, or Tudor Black Bay. As part of this, I would love to read your recommendations for anti-hype watches in the comments. Without further ado, let’s begin.
IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX
Some of you may know I have a soft spot for International Watch Company. Schaffhausen’s largest watchmaker is connected to my family history. I also have a few IWC watches in my collection. These include my grandfather’s Cal. 89 from the 1960s, an IWC 3706 pilot’s chronograph from the early 2000s, and an IWC Mark XV pilot’s watch that was a gift from my dad. Today, though, we’re looking at the modern Mark offering from IWC, the Mark XX. This is a watch that contends with the likes of the Rolex Explorer in tool-watch aesthetics and capability. The IWC Mark XX comes on one of the most comfortable bracelets in the business. It also offers a solid 10-bar water resistance rating and an in-group (Richemont) caliber with 120 hours of power reserve.
In addition, the IWC Mark XX is available with attractive dial options, including white, a beautiful sunburst blue, and the classic black. The watch still makes use of an antimagnetic Faraday cage and uses a sapphire crystal designed to withstand sudden decompression. It’s an example of the IWC ethos of an over-engineered, somewhat somber design. It’s the perfect everyday anti-hype watch that also seems to punch above its weight since the IWC Mark series has a rich aviation history. Admittedly, I would change some things about the modern Mark XX, including reverting to the handset design seen on the earlier Mark XV, Mark XII and Mark XI watches. Regardless, the IWC Mark XX is a very strong contender as an everyday watch that can handle anything you can throw at it and still looks excellent dressed up.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date is an enchanting watch that, for some reason, rarely gets a mention. Plus, Jaeger-LeCoultre is a watchmaker that goes toe to toe with the best of them in its price range, including IWC and Rolex. JLC is renowned for producing excellent movements. As Thomas explained here, the modern Polaris is based on a compressor-cased Memovox model from the 1960s. The current watch’s 42mm case provides water resistance to 200 meters and includes a display back with a sapphire crystal.
Sitting behind the case back is the JLC 899AB movement. This caliber is adorned with Geneva stripes, blued screws, and a signed and skeletonized rotor. It offers a power reserve of 70 hours and manual winding and setting via the lower crown. Atypical of a dive watch, the crowns are actually of the push-pull variety. The JLC Polaris Date has capable specifications, a highly attractive design, and an excellent heritage and history. If you are after an anti-hype dive watch from a premium brand, the JLC Polaris Date is worth a look (especially on the secondary market).
Image: @watchguyuk
Tudor North Flag
Tudor’s North Flag was an ugly duckling when it was first released in 2015. The North Flag is a fantastic watch with an avant-garde design. Perhaps it was too much, too soon from Tudor. If the North Flag was rereleased today, it would do much better as the brand has reached a different level of maturity and market profile now. The North Flag was an unusual watch in many ways, with a power reserve indicator smushed onto the dial. Tudor’s design for the North Flag was inspired, in some ways, by the vintage Tudor Ranger II and the Rolex Explorer.
Image: @watchguyuk
The North Flag debuted Tudor’s first Kenissi caliber and featured an aggressive 40mm case with an integrated bracelet. It also utilized attractive yellow accents on the dial alongside a useful date complication. Unlike the Black Bay series, the North Flag did not sell well and was discontinued in 2021. It has recently seen somewhat of a resurgence on the secondary market, however, as collectors begin to appreciate its bold design with a fresh perspective.
Omega Constellation
The Constellation series is one of the cornerstones of the modern Omega brand. Despite being a regular in the catalog since 1952, the Constellation often falls under the radar for watch enthusiasts. Its case back depicts an observatory and a sky with eight stars, signifying the chronometry prizes Omega won between 1945 and 1952. These stars inspired the watch’s name, and the Constellation quickly established a reputation as a high-accuracy and excellent-quality watch. Given the fact that the Constellation has existed for so long, the number of vintage, neo-vintage, and new options out there is almost overwhelming.
Omega Constellations from the 1980s offer the best buys with their classy designs and reliable construction. However, part of the fun in investigating the Omega Constellation is trawling through the sheer number of options that are out there. If I were in the market for one, I’d either pursue a pie-pan-dial model from the 1950s or ’60s or an example from the 1980s with quartz movement and integrated bracelet.
For those of you out there after a new watch, fear not. Omega still makes excellent Constellation models, including the Globemaster sub-line. Either way, the Omega Constellation is a highly attractive option that, for some reason, does not seem to get the attention it deserves as a model line with a rich history.
Image: Morgan Saignes
Rolex Explorer II
The Explorer II is not the first watch many of us think of when we think of Rolex. This is a good thing. Rolex’s Explorer II boasts an excellent heritage, great features, and the build quality that Rolex is renowned for. It’s also a watch that you can find examples of under retail. This makes the Explorer II (whether the current or previous generation) an absolute bargain. Originally designed for cavers, the Explorer II is a handsome watch. Although it perhaps loses some of the elegance we see in the time-only Explorer, the Explorer II provides added GMT and date functionality.
Image: Bob’s Watches
The Oyster case offers an adventure-ready 100m depth rating. Additionally, the Oyster bracelet is very comfortable, even if it’s potentially a bit jangly (depending on the generation). One of the best factors, however, is that the Rolex Explorer II is a thinking man’s/woman’s Rolex. It is not a watch surrounded by hype like the Rolex Submariner or Daytona. Fratello’s managing editor Nacho has expressed a desire for a polar-dial Explorer II, and if I were in the market for one, this would likely be it. That dial pops in the sunlight!
What anti-hype watches do you fancy?
So, there you have it. This is just the start, though, as there are so many different ways to peel this particular potato. An honorable mention goes to the Omega Speedmaster X-33 Speedmaster, which almost made it onto this list. But what about you, Fratelli? Which anti-hype watches would you suggest for this and why? I’m looking forward to reading your contributions in the comments section.
