Taking A Bite Of The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph And Frosted Gold Selfwinding With Their Crème Brûlée Dials

Are these two yellow gold watches sweet and rich enough for you?

May 13, 2024

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Why have just one good thing if you can have two? The dial of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph shows the brand’s famous Grande Tapisserie pattern and a smoky effect. The 37mm Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding doesn’t have a three-dimensional effect on the dial but, instead, pairs the graduated effect with a case of hammered gold. In Le Brassus, AP’s hometown in the Swiss Jura Mountains’ desolate Vallée de Joux, “too much of a good thing” doesn’t exist — the harsh winters must have taught them that. I took a “bite” of both luxury sports watches recently, and it left me with the taste of crème brûlée in my mouth, among other things.

Both the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph ref. 26240BA.OO.1320BA.02 and the Frosted Gold Selfwinding ref. (15550BA.GG.1356BA.01 are rich watches. First, the abundance of yellow gold leads to very “rich” prices — the chronograph costs €78,600, and the three-hander sells for €68,600. Then, there’s the abundance of shapes, textures, and shades. But one of the standout features of both yellow gold Royal Oak models is the presence of fumé dials. These gradient (or ombré) dials slowly transition from black on the outer edge of the dial to a lighter golden shade. In the case of the Selfwinding Chronograph, the color transition happens on an already very prominent Grande Tapisserie dial. The result is a powerful and rich play of light — “rich” like having crème brûlée for dessert after an already copious dinner. And the 37mm three-hander serves the famous French dish on a sparkling gold plate. Is it too much?

A taste of the 41mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph in yellow gold

The main “ingredients” of the 41mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph ref. 26240BA.OO.1320BA.02 are the case and bracelet in 18K yellow gold. The 50m-water-resistant case measures 41mm wide, 12.4mm thick, and 53mm long. It has a glare-proofed sapphire crystal above the dial and on the case back. Through the latter, it shows the Audemars Piguet caliber 4401, the brand’s first in-house, automatic, integrated chronograph movement. The 4Hz movement comprises 391 parts, has a 70-hour power reserve, and measures 32mm in diameter by 6.8mm thick. This is the same flyback chronograph caliber showing hours, minutes, small seconds, and the date that made its debut in 2019 inside the Code 11.59 chronograph.

Operating the chronograph is a real joy. The action of the pushers is smooth yet firm and precise. The (heavy) gold watch also provides a stable platform when starting, stopping, and resetting the chrono. If this timepiece were executed in titanium, the feeling you’d get when operating it on the wrist would be completely different.

Take a look at the look

The finishing of the watch and its movement are fabulous, so there’s nothing to complain about there. The bracelet is smooth and comfortable, and, yes, the gold 41mm “RO” is a hefty wrist companion, but that’s also a given. I doubt people on the brink of acquiring this precious metal watch will be scared away after discovering its heaviness.

But I want to comment on the look. Well, I already did, but it’s a bit too much of a good thing. Fumé on Grande Tapisserie is like fries on pizza. Is that a bad comparison? Okay. Well, in my opinion, it’s not Tournedos Rossini either, the prime example of when too much of a good thing actually is a good thing. Just thinking about a fillet steak on a crouton soaked in gravy, served with foie gras fried in butter, a few slices of shaved truffle, and a sprinkling of Madeira sauce makes my mouth water.

No tapisserie, just fumé

The question of why AP insisted on using a fumé dial is probably because it’s en vogue. So many brands in all segments of the watch world use it. But none of these brands have a Royal Oak in the collection with a type of dial that’s unique. The 37mm Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding ref. 15550BA.GG.1356BA.01 doesn’t have any kind of tapisserie whatsoever. This medium-sized RO shows a smooth, smoked yellow-gold-tone sunburst dial. This dial might sound and look less dynamic/more subtle than the one in the bigger chronograph, but it is surrounded by a wilder frame than its more complicated sibling. The sparkling and luminous qualities of the Frosted Gold case and bracelet are just as rich and possibly even more prominent than the chronograph’s double-decorated dial.

The hammered 18K yellow gold case and bracelet are a thing of beauty. They’re very different, edgy, and semi-retro (or maybe even ancient), The ombré dial, on the other hand, is a bit too mainstream. The Frosted Gold approach worked way better, if you ask me, in the white gold RO Perpetual Calendar ref. 26574BC.GG.1224BC.01, a limited edition of 35 pieces with a black Grande Tapisserie dial.

37mm on the wrist

I once wrote the article “There’s More To The AP Royal Oak Than The ‘Jumbo’.” In it, I featured the 37mm light blue Royal Oak Selfwinding ref. 15550ST.OO.1356ST.04. It looks fresh, sporty, and light, and it seemed like a worthy alternative to the slightly large and proportionally challenged 41mm version of the three-hander and a budget-smart alternative to the iconic “Jumbo.”

I found out later that this wasn’t the case for me. While the 38mm RO Selfwinding Chronograph ref, 26715ST.OO.1356ST.01 is the perfect alternative to the 41mm version for those with a smaller wrist and/or taste for smaller watches, the 37mm RO felt a bit too small and odd on my wrist.

The 37mm × 9.1mm × 46.5mm case doesn’t hit the/my sweet spot. And the fact that the Vaucher-made caliber 5900 beats inside also doesn’t help. It’s nerdy, I know, but the in-house caliber 4302 inside the 41mm RO Selfwinding is a nicer movement to look at. Plus, the 188-part 5900 is based on the Vaucher 3002 caliber. At AP’s price point, I want something in-house and original. That said, I’m sure most wearers of the 37mm RO are not as nerdy/picky as I am in that regard.

Final thoughts on the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph and Frosted Gold Selfwinding

The Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph and Frosted Gold Selfwinding served to you this Monday are new additions to the 140-part 2024 Royal Oak collection. I wouldn’t pick either of them. There are a few others that I most definitely prefer. But, hey, not every watch in the collection can be to everyone’s taste or a future icon. AP’s Frosted Gold might turn out to be iconic in the long run. But any future classic in hammered gold won’t have a fumé dial, I can promise you that. Plus, the fact that the black and yellow gold colorway made me think of crème brûlée the moment I saw it made me question its longevity.

Anyway, for more information on all these two new versions and all the other 138 models in the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak family, please visit the brand’s official website. And if you want to make crème brûlée after reading this hands-on (I do!), here are the five key ingredients to the classic, rich French dessert. You need cream, vanilla, salt, eggs, and sugar, along with a small blowtorch, to make crème brûlée. How to turn the ingredients into an exquisitely rich and elegant dessert is something you will find on YouTube. Sorry, but this is Fratello, not Binging With Babish.