Breguet Further Expands The Marine Collection With Six New Watches

For 2020 Breguet has chosen to expand its Marine collection. In March, we saw the release of a new rose gold Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887. Today sees Breguet adding another six new watches to the Marine collection. Although not technically “new”, they are very welcome additions.

The Marine 5517, 5527, and 5547 have been familiar faces in the current Marine collection that was introduced in 2018. To expand the collection, Breguet decided to introduce them with full gold bracelets.

…my appreciation for the Marine collection had grown tremendously.

It’s funny how things change over time. As I mentioned in my article on the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887, for a long time, Breguet watches were too classically-styled for my taste. But my opinion has changed. Both because I have grown older and because Breguet has updated the design of the Marine collection. As a result, my appreciation for the Marine collection had grown tremendously.

The Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 is the perfect example of that. Every time I see it, I am reminded what an impressive watch it is. But we also have to be fair. That watch in particular is the ultimate piece within the Marine collection. The new full gold introductions of the Marine 5517, 5527, and 5547 prove that it doesn’t have to be the top of the line to create a lasting impression.

Straps vs. bracelets

Besides finding out that Breguet’s classic looks have grown on me, the personal challenge of classical watches and bracelets has remained. It has always been a bit of a stylistic struggle for me to put the two together — with the Type XX models as exceptions. A leather strap is a conventional solution and perfect for Breguet’s watches. But if I would have to choose between a bracelet and a rubber strap, the latter is often my preferred option.

The introduction of the titanium Marine 5517, 5527, and 5547 with titanium bracelets changed that. Not only do I love the design and engineering of the bracelet itself, but I also prefer all three on a bracelet above the versions with a leather or rubber strap. That’s why it makes sense that the brand has chosen to introduce the same three models in white gold and rose gold with full gold bracelets.

Marine Collection

Just to get a little perspective on the Breguet Marine collection. The collection gets its name from an unusual title held by Abraham-Louis Breguet. In 1815, he was appointed Horloger de la Marine Royale. Breguet started creating new marine chronometers for the French Royal Navy almost immediately. In good Breguet tradition, he always introduced new and improved versions. The current Marine collection is inspired by the classic looks and technical brilliance of those marine chronometers.

Putting the Marine collection in perspective, it is a series of nautical-inspired sports watches. Mixing the codes of the Breguet brand with the sports watch genre feels odd at first. But we’ve seen many other classical brands venture into this arena. In fact, watches like the Patek Phillipe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak are exactly the sort of thing the Marine 5517, 5527, and 5547 are competing with. We often don’t see it like that because the Royal Oak and Nautilus have been exponents of pushing the boundaries of modern watch design. Breguet is not part of that discussion.

…the prices of the Marine collection are on the same level as the Overseas, Royal Oak, and Nautilus.

But as a brand Breguet is part of the same select group of exclusive brands with the appeal of being the ultimate in watchmaking. Similarly, the prices of the Marine collection are on the same level as the Overseas, Royal Oak, and Nautilus. It’s more a question of style really, rather than saying they are not competitors at all.

The different models

The Marine 5517 is the 40mm clean and simple three-hander that features a date window at the 3 o’clock position. The Marine Chronographe 5527 is the 42.3mm chronograph characterized by its asymmetric sub-dials and has a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock. The last is the 40mm Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 that features an alarm complication. It also displays the date and a second timezone. And, as with the chronograph, the sub-dials on the 5547 also differ in size giving it a slightly more dynamic appearance.

All three models are characterized by their round-shaped case with the typical Breguet fluted case sides. The first thing that immediately stands out compared to the titanium versions is the dial. Where the titanium versions have a sunburst slate-grey dial, the new rose gold and white gold models feature a gold dial, engine-turned by hand with an original wave design. The rose gold versions feature a silver-colored dial, and the white gold versions feature a blue colored dial. The dial design and colors are not new as they have been part of the collection for the models with a rubber and leather strap.

The contrast of the blue dial and the hour indexes give the white gold versions the edge in terms of legibility. But the silver dial in combination the rose gold case, bracelet, and handset results in an incredibly refined aesthetic. The clean-dialed Marine 5517 in rose gold is the pick of the bunch for me. From the get-go, that has been the one watch my eyes have been drawn to constantly.

The Marine bracelets

The bracelets themselves are impressively engineered. The most eye-catching detail is the first link of the bracelet that’s integrated into the case. The bracelet is a three-link design. We’ve seen this concept from many brands, but the execution of the details makes all the difference here. First off, as we know from the titanium version, most links do not have screw holes. Breguet secures the links with the screws located on the underside of the bracelet.

…these screws are thick, robust, and appear very reliable.

If you actually turn these bracelets over and take a look at the affixing screws, you might be surprised to see how big they are. While you might expect, thin, weedy little screws from a brand steeped in as much grace and elegance as Breguet, these screws are thick, robust, and appear very reliable. Their inclusion is a stylish and sensible move on the brand’s part.

Another detail is the finishing of the bracelets. As we would expect from Breguet, the finishing is immaculate. The links alternate between polished and glossy facets, creating a lovely effect when wearing the watch. Overall the style of the bracelet is not new as we have seen it on the titanium models. But seeing the bracelet in white gold and rose gold does create even more visual impact. Overall I think it works perfectly for both the white gold and the rose gold models.

Movements

Three different watches; three different movements. All three watches are powered by in-house developed and produced self-winding movements. The Marine 5517 is powered by the caliber 777A, which ticks at 28,800vph and has a power reserve of 55 hours. The Marine Chronographe 5227 is powered by the caliber 582QA chronograph movement, which ticks at 28,800vph and has a power reserve of 48 hours. Last but certainly not least, the Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 is powered by the caliber 519F/1. The movement also ticks at 28,800vph and has a 45-hour power reserve. Out of three, it is the most complicated with an alarm, time and alarm power reserve indicators, an on/off indicator for the alarm, and a second timezone display.

The movements of all three watches are visible through the sapphire case back and are a joy to behold. Breguet has made sure to incorporate the Marine look and feel to the movement as well. Every part of the movement is hand-finished and displays the incredible Breguet craftsmanship. A côtes de Genève pattern on the bridges resembles a ship’s deck and the rotor is made to look like a ship’s wheel. These are the standards we have come to expect from Breguet. Nonetheless, their appreciation never gets old.

First thoughts

Overall the addition of the full gold bracelet option for the Marine 5517, 5527, and 5547 makes sense. By doing so, Breguet creates a sportier look for what are, in essence, the brand’s take on luxury sports watches. As I mentioned before, I prefer all three models on a full gold bracelet rather than seeing them on a leather or rubber strap. The rose gold 5517 is the one that takes the first prize for me, but all of them have their charm.

These latest six additions show that the Breguet has made significant steps in updating the design for the Marine collection.

But great charm comes with great prices. Breguet has decided not to differentiate between the white gold and rose gold models when it comes to pricing. Therefore the price of the Marine 5517 on either a white gold or a rose gold bracelet is CHF 47,900. The Marine Chronographe 5527 on a gold bracelet is CHF 55,000. Finally, the Marine Alarme Musicale 5527 on a gold bracelet is CHF 58,900.

If you’re looking for a classical-looking luxury sports watch, one of these six new models could be your choice. These latest six additions show that the Breguet has made significant steps in updating the design for the Marine collection. I have quickly become a fan of some of the watches in that specific collection. And it’s great to see that it’s not just because I’m getting older. Find out more about the Marine collection on the official Breguet website here.