Can We Appreciate The Rolex Submariner As Just A Great Dive Watch?
The Rolex Submariner is, for many, a default watch. That may not be true for most watch enthusiasts, but as a cultural object signifying success or as “just a good watch,” the Submariner is way up there. Earlier this year, Rolex loaned me a Submariner so I could have a chance to develop personal thoughts on a watch I’d rarely handled for more than a few minutes. Over four weeks, I got to take this particular watch, the 126610LN, on multiple ocean trips and work journeys. Here are a few thoughts.
Separating the Rolex Submariner from what it represents is no easy task. Part of that challenge is that the Rolex Submariner represents different things to different folks. For some, it’s the watch they buy to mark a significant moment, such as the birth of a child or getting a new job. For others, the Submariner embodies the weight the Rolex name carries. This means it becomes a sort of “full stop” in the wrist game for folks. What I’m getting at here is that the Rolex Submariner has, in many ways, become the horological “default setting.” It’s one of the biggest animals in the horological jungle and commands a fair bit of respect accordingly.
“Icon” is probably one of the most overused terms in the English language. But it is perfectly accurate to say that the Rolex Submariner is an icon. A heady mix of Rolex’s successful marketing campaigns and a genuinely excellent product have led to this. The Submariner’s popularity over generations has spawned opportunities for fantastic stories. These stories then get discovered, told, and shared, and the icon status becomes a sort of self-fulfilling prophecy.
The Rolex Submariner has a great heritage
In just the last year, I’ve come across my fair share of these stories. First, there was the Rolex Submariner discovered in the Pacific Ocean and returned to its owner after a years-long journey. Then, there was another Rolex Submariner similarly lost and found (albeit in a much shorter timeframe)! One highlight for me was exploring the fascinating history of how Rolex provided two Submariners to former Australian Prime Minister Harold Holt, a keen skin diver. Tragically, Mr. Holt went missing and was presumed to have drowned after disappearing on an ocean swim on Sunday, December 17th, 1967.
Then, there was the refurbishment of a rare Australian Rolex Submariner ref. 5510. We here at Fratello managed to track down an image of the original owner in the Australian archives! Yet another story is that of Fratello reader and stuntman Tom Place’s ongoing quest to track down the Rolex Submariner he lost in 1996. We wish him luck as he continues to comb the lake where he lost that watch and regularly dives with an array of interesting timepieces on his underwater expeditions. Earlier this year, I also compared the previous generation of Rolex Submariner to the current Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome.”
You never get bored of a boring watch
For me, the Rolex Submariner is the ultimate expression of iterative design. As I write this, I happen to be wearing another watch from the Hans Wilsdorf stable, my Tudor Black Bay 58 in blue. This watch, in a sense, lives under the shadow of what the Rolex (and Tudor) Submariners brought before it. The Black Bay shares many of the key design choices of the Submariner with a sprinkling of some Tudor magic, particularly in elements like the handset.
For some, this means the Tudor Black Bay 58 will always be considered the poor man’s Rolex Submariner. For me, it’s a closer representation of what the Submariner was when it had the perfect balance of mechanical excellence, vintage aesthetics, and cultural kudos but still felt appropriate for average hard-working people. Some of that feeling has worn off with the newer (post-2008) Rolex Submariners. This is the reason I keep coming back to my Tudor. In my eyes, it does a good job of bridging that gap.
Mixed messages
Not all aspects of Rolex’s reputation are positive. In becoming King Kong, you’re going to spill some barrels or knock some noses out of joint. Much baggage has emerged with a shift in horological culture more broadly. An emphasis on “wrist flexing” — showing off a watch rather than simply enjoying it — has gone up several notches in the world of instant gratification and social media. This shift has also affected the cultural weight of the Rolex Submariner. No longer an ultimate tool watch, the Submariner is the go-to option for many flexers. This hasn’t been helped by the difficulty in getting one’s hands on a Rolex Submariner for the past several years. This situation worsened during the COVID-19 pandemic.
Frankly, the Submariner’s image has not always been helped by Rolex’s marketing approaches either. These have sometimes emphasized elements of flex luxury that are at odds with the spirit of the original Rolex Submariner. However, one could also argue that this has been a fairly organic and gradual process, with Rolex having slowly positioned as an increasingly luxurious brand over the last 40 years. But despite all this noise, the Rolex Submariner is an incredibly compelling dive watch.
Compelling modern specifications
Let’s get the specifications out of the way. By my measurements, the case comes in at 40.5mm wide (Rolex lists it as 41mm, taking the bezel overhang into account) and 12mm thick. The lug-to-lug is a nice 47.6mm, but the Oystersteel bracelet’s end links will make that figure a little larger. Speaking of the end links, they’re 21mm wide. This is annoying as an unusual number, though it makes some design sense with the nature of the case. I’d still prefer 20mm, though. The clasp provides a generous amount of adjustability thanks to Rolex’s Glidelock system.
The bezel is unidirectional with wonderful action. In fact, it’s probably the best that I have yet tried. The watch also has a screw-down crown, helping to provide water resistance to 300 meters. Rolex’s 3235 caliber inside offers a 70-hour power reserve and the brand’s Superlative Chronometer accuracy standard (±2 seconds per day deviation as a maximum). Finally, the dial’s and hands’ Chromalight luminescent material glows a wonderful blue in dark conditions. The full suite of specifications is available on Rolex’s website.
Subtle but significant improvements
So, what is wearing this Rolex Submariner like? First, it is a significantly different (and better) proposition than the previous generation (ref. 116610). Second, the case feels less squat. But probably the biggest refinement from a visual sense is the way the bezel reflects light. Now, this may sound like a strange observation, but stick with me. The previous version’s bezel acted as a real fingerprint magnet that would reflect light. It was the definition of “flashy.” Perhaps something has happened in the production process since then, though, as we now have a bezel that reflects less light and is much less flashy. In dim light, this creates the impression of a “ghost” bezel, with the black bezel appearing a dull battleship gray. It’s a great change.
The watch wears quite differently from what its specifications would suggest. The case feels a little smaller than Rolex’s listed 41mm measurement (which makes sense since it’s more of a true 40.5mm). This experience is aided by the watch’s relative slimness. Even if it does feel far more refined than my 39mm Tudor Black Bay 58, it still wears larger. But the difference is less significant than I expected or the measurements would suggest.
Taking the Rolex Submariner underwater
The bezel is not only more attractive than the previous version but also generally superior in underwater applications. One of my biggest complaints about the previous-generation Submariner was the bezel’s uncanny ability to become unreadable in harsh sunlight or dappled light near the surface of the ocean. This issue has been resolved in the current generation. The case’s slimness feels reassuring on the wrist underwater too. It does not feel like a watch that will catch itself on a rock.
Taking the watch into the ocean felt good. It was out of the water where, admittedly, the experience wasn’t quite as comfortable. I felt a sense of trepidation while wearing this watch. Sure, I always feel a certain element of apprehension when spending time with a review unit, but this time, the feeling was different. It was more because of the reputation that this watch has nowadays.
It’s not you, Rolex, it’s me
Picture this: you’re at an upmarket bar, watching a football game with friends. The bar is starting to fill up with boisterous and, at times, obnoxious investment-banker types. Guess what watch is likely to be found on more than one wrist in that crowd? You guessed it — the Rolex Submariner. Don’t get me wrong; I love the story behind this watch, but it now represents the default “wrist flex” option for many. This cultural phenomenon detracts a little from my experience of wearing it. Perhaps this is the baggage that stays in my hand for a second when reaching for this watch when I go out.
With what I have said above, though, it is important to note I reached for this Sub quite a lot while I had it on loan. Like an unwanted shadow, the aversion to modern wrist flexing weighed on me during my time with this watch. Nevertheless, it started to dissipate after a few weeks. I think, with time, it would disappear altogether if I were to ever find myself owning this handsome dive watch.
Concluding thoughts
The Rolex Submariner is just a great watch. It’s highly accurate, it has excellent resistance to shocks and scrapes, and it is a trusty underwater ocean companion. The heritage is almost unmatched in the industry. So, could I overcome personal baggage and consider owning this watch? Honestly, I think that I could. But I won’t be going out of my way to do so. There are other watches in the Rolex stable that intrigue me more and have a smaller profile that suits my current tastes a little better. I’m rather keen to get my hands on an Oyster Perpetual 36 now.
With that all said, I think that anyone who owns a Rolex Submariner can be proud to own such a solid timepiece. But what do you think, Fratelli? Can we put aside our biases and just appreciate the Rolex Submariner as a good dive watch? Let me know in the comments.
