Could Current-Day Panerai’s Biggest Competition Come From Its Recent Past?
There are watch brands out there that, for some reason, we never really get around to appreciating. Perhaps it is because we don’t see them in the wild much, or it could be that their designs don’t jump out at us. For me, Panerai is one of those brands.
This is a shame (for me, I mean — Panerai can do perfectly fine without my appreciation) because this company has a rich history that stands on its own. My colleague Nacho has waxed lyrical about the joys of appreciating the brand and owning a Panerai watch himself. However, most of Panerai’s current references don’t appeal to me.
It’s not you, Panerai — it’s me
There are several reasons for that, but chief among them is the cost of a new Panerai versus what I could get for similar money. While Panerai’s design language is relatively distinct, it’s also a large form factor for someone with smaller wrists. There is something about the idea of walking around with an oversized Panerai watch on my wrist that makes me want to burst out laughing.
Today, I am looking at an era of interesting Panerai designs, and we don’t even need to cast our eyes too far back. If you hop in a time machine and travel to about a decade ago, you’ll find several interesting watches in the Panerai stable. One, in particular, stands out to me. I was lucky enough to get my hands on it recently.
The Panerai Radiomir 1940 ref. PAM00512
The Panerai Radiomir 1940 ref. PAM00512 is my top contender for a charming example of what a regular-production Panerai watch today could be. This reference debuted in 2013 as a limited run of 1,500 units, and it has a relatively small (for a Panerai) 42mm case. When you combine that size with the wonderful cushion shape that Panerai is famous for, you have a winning formula! The case is water resistant to 100 meters as well. Therefore, unlike some other smaller Panerai watches with paltry (ahem, 30m) depth ratings, this one can handle many more kinds of aquatic activities. A Panerai without decent water resistance is a non-starter for this fickle writer. Accordingly, the PAM00512’s crown is of the screw-down variety.
The Panerai Radiomir 1940 wears beautifully. I came across the one pictured above while researching one of our Fratelli Stories. It was in Fratello reader Shanka’s collection, which we featured here. Having never had much of an appetite for Panerai watches, I didn’t even think to try it on among the other wonderful watches he brought when we met up for an interview over a coffee. However, in the end, I did try it on at Shanka’s insistence. Boy, I was shocked with how well it wore!
A Panerai gateway drug
The PAM00512 is not always an easy watch to find secondhand, and prices seem to fluctuate. It’s also not the most affordable relatively modern Panerai option for the prospective buyer. Nevertheless, I argue this watch is one of the most compelling options out there for the non-Paneritsi who want to get their feet wet in the world of Panerai but are slightly turned off by the massive case sizes of other references.
It’s no wonder that others have called this particular reference “the most elegantly proportioned watch Panerai has ever made.” Inside it beats the P.999/1 movement, a hand-winder with 19 jewels, a 21,600vph frequency, and a 60-hour power reserve. It is a nicely finished movement that you can peek at through the exhibition case back. The dial is a luscious inky-black number with the 12, 3, and 6 numerals and simple stick markers for the rest of the hours. A sub-seconds register sits where the 9 should be, which adds to that Panerai quirkiness that collectors and brand enthusiasts seem to love so much. The luminescent material seemed generously applied when I cupped my hands over the watch under a table, like some madman talking to his imaginary friend in public.
Now, should I venture up to its modern, beefier brothers?
The short answer is “yes.” Having gone into a Panerai store, I can say that the build quality of the current offerings has improved over the 11-year-old example I have been enjoying. This is not to say that the PAM00512 is badly made, but the newer references seem more solid. Having grown to appreciate the brand through just one limited-edition timepiece is a little ridiculous, frankly. I feel lucky to have come across this watch while working on a completely different Fratello feature. This is because it has opened up the brand for me in ways that I would have never previously guessed. That said, the fit and finish quality of Panerai’s current watches is certainly a cut above this one and older neo-vintage models. Whether the charm and soul follow suit, I’ll let you be the judge.
The next chapter could explore something like a full-sized PAM (something with the 44mm case size I previously dreaded). I am casting my eyes toward Nacho’s former Panerai timepiece, the PAM00055. Seeing this watch on Nacho’s Instagram while he went on underwater adventures was memorable. I may well have to track down something similar soon to take it under the ocean too. There is an astounding array of options out there.
Concluding thoughts
The most exciting part of writing this article has been trawling through Panerai’s website. Thankfully, there are other mid-sized options available today (even if you’ll pay more for one than the cost of a secondhand PAM00512). There are even 38mm and 40mm options now. But the design language of this particular limited edition speaks to me more. I would rather spend my hard-earned cash on something like this than anything I can currently find on the Panerai website. That said, this statement comes with the massive caveat that I haven’t seen these watches in person. I find it difficult to be inspired by the photographs and renders on Panerai’s website. Perhaps I would feel very differently about the watches in real life.
The PAM00512 is an example of just how good Panerai’s watches can be. I have been humbled by getting the opportunity to spend time with this limited edition. It has opened my eyes to some of the other options out there from the brand. What is the answer to this writer’s question about the riddle of current-day Panerai? Well, I need to get my hands on some more Panerai watches to get a better understanding. Watch this space as I now seek a full-sized Panerai to wear on some ocean expedition!
