Daily Drivers: The Louis Vuitton Tambour And Escale Models

Louis Vuitton isn’t exactly a newcomer to the luxury watch market. However, in the past two years, we’ve seen a marked change in the fashion house and how it approaches watches. In 2023, the Tambour reappeared in its most competitive form yet, bearing an integrated bracelet. Earlier this year, a slightly dressier Escale rejoined the lineup. Both of these models make for elegant yet wearable daily watches.

Call us skeptics, but when high-fashion or jewelry brands push into the watch market, we pore over the details with our collective fine-toothed combs. Often, these are little more than branding exercises, leaving us watch nerds cold. Louis Vuitton, however, hasn’t phoned in its effort. The brand owns La Fabrique du Temps, a proper movement-development house that has designed the movement in the Tambour and Escale. Then, there are the designs. Some love them, and others don’t, but we can all agree they’re beautifully made and finished.

The 2014 Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtimer

Back to 2014

Before last year’s Tambour relaunch, 2014 was the last time I sat up and took notice of Louis Vuitton and its watchmaking. I still remember the launch of the Escale Worldtimer with its puffy hand-enameled luggage tags from various cities. The watch wasn’t overly legible, but as someone who loves to cover his suitcase in stickers, the colors and thoughts of traveling appealed to me. Now, though, Louis Vuitton has a one-two punch of a lineup with the current Tambour and Escale.

The Louis Vuitton Tambour

When the Tambour debuted in 2023, it caused a major stir. It was a surprise because few expected a watch meant to challenge the most famous names in watchmaking. Louis Vuitton brought a newly designed 40mm by 44mm watch with an integrated bracelet, a new chronometer-certified LFT023 micro-rotor movement, and sector dials with sandblasted and brushed finishes. Super-LumiNova on the hands and hour indices enhances visibility in the darkness. With a slim, comfortable 8.3mm thickness and a 50m water resistance rating, it’s also suitable for most daily activities. The folding, hidden clasp ensures that the watch has a smooth, finished look on the wrist.

The Tambour also offers variety. An 18K rose gold model with a brown dial is joined by a yellow gold version with a white dial. These watches are priced at €59,500.

Bicolor/two-tone watches have staged a recent comeback, and the Louis Vuitton Tambour is one of my favorite applications. The mix of stainless steel and warm 18K rose gold perfectly suits the gray and silver sector dial. The subtle, engraved rose gold outer markers in the outer sector contrast with the applied indices on the middle ring. It’s a pleasing combination that eschews any of the tackiness often associated with two-tone watches. It’s also elegant enough for dressy events yet still sporty for less formal occasions. This watch has a retail price of €30,200.

Stainless steel Tambour watches are the most affordable but boast the same qualities as models in precious metals. The comfortable bracelet blends matte links with small, polished intermediate links. Dark blue and medium gray dial options are available for €20,900.

The LFT023 micro-rotor caliber

The LFT023 micro-rotor movement immediately placed the Tambour and Escale into competition with longstanding watch brands. The caliber is just 4.2mm thick and has a frequency of 28,800vph. It also has a 22K gold rotor and a power reserve of 50 hours. The official chronometer certification equals a daily accuracy of +6/-4 seconds per day. From a finishing standpoint, the movement follows the dial and features sandblasted bridges. Raised and polished edges also boast anglage. It’s a handsome 31-jewel caliber and rightfully on display in both models.

The Louis Vuitton Escale

Not content to rest on the Tambour from 2023, Louis Vuitton released the Escale earlier this year. This watch features elements from the brand’s famous and historic line of travel trunks. The designs of the lugs and dial remind us of brass hardware used on Louis Vuitton luggage. That sounds “on the nose,” but the application is subtle. These 39mm by 46.5mm watches have a 10.34mm thickness and, like the Tambour, a 50m depth rating.

The Escale is available in two 18K rose gold versions for €29,000. One has a dark blue embossed dial with a silver satin-finished outer flange. The second option has an embossed silver center section with a similar outer area. On both, the indices, the hour hand, and the minute hand are made of rose gold. Only the seconds hand is titanium and coated with rose gold to minimize weight. The models come with either camel or dark blue calfskin straps and 18K rose gold pin buckles. Despite the classy, dressier form, an Escale complements casual clothing.

Finally, for those seeking an exclusive option, the Escale is available with a 39mm platinum case for €39,000. In this model, the dial’s center is made from the Gibeon meteorite found in Namibia, and white gold is used for the indices and hands. Here, a black calfskin strap comes with a platinum pin buckle.

Conclusions

Louis Vuitton has created two highly wearable watches with the Tambour and Escale. The designs are attractive and stand out with distinctive detailing. Plus, moderate case sizes and liveable thicknesses afforded by a new micro-rotor movement make them competitive among luxury watches. For anyone considering an elegant daily watch in this price range, the Tambour and Escale are worth a look.

For more information on the Tambour and Escale, visit the official Louis Vuitton site.

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