Finding Microbrand Value For €500 Or Less—Five Options From RZE, Lorier, Namica, And More
Many well-known microbrands have emerged from their niche and become bonafide small brands. Thanks to crowd-funding initiatives, we have also seen many projects jump into the small-brand status directly. Yet a cloud of skepticism seems to hang over many Facebook groups and even in our own Fratelli’s comments. That raises the big question that I set out to answer today: Is there still Microbrand value To Be Found For €500?
Many years ago, I got hooked on watches through the concept of microbrand value, falling into a deep rabbit hole where many watch lovers have remained. While I have been trying to shift to fewer watches with bigger price tags, I often find myself enthusiastic about new kids on the block. In my opinion, there is still value to be found. I think that the following five watches perfectly represent it. So, whether you’re just getting started in watches or you’re microbrand-curious, be sure to check out these value-filled picks.
RZE Urbanist Solar
The possibility of solar charging is relatively new on the micro brand scene. Miyota recently released a small, solar-powered quartz movement that one brand has quickly put to good use. The RZE Urbanist offers a well-specced, user-friendly field watch with a compact size of 36mm. I know RZE well and do regret not pulling the trigger on our collaboration with the brand. But with its 10-second charging and 100m depth rating, the Urbanist is one of the best budget GADA watches I’ve seen released by a microbrand this year.
It is imbued with a light-but-tough grade 2 titanium case, treated with RZE’s UltraHex coating. This provides a hard, scratch-resistant layer of 1200 Vickers. That compares to the 200 Vickers for 316L steel; at $259 (about €237), it offers a lot of bang for your buck. With its black NATO strap, I do not doubt the color I’d pick: warm Medallion Yellow would be my choice for summer.
J&Berg B2
Earlier this summer, I had the pleasure of looking closer at the watches of my Nordic brothers from Finland, J&Berg. The B2, with its matte-blasted titanium case and 100m water-resistance rating, is a solid everyday watch with much to offer. It has a 38.5mm case with a comfortable 45.2 lug-to-lug. It boasts a hyper-legible yet indefinable style. Modernity is the keyword, as the B2 is contemporary without even a hint of retro.
The dial has a two-tone design, a broad outer ring, and a radially brushed section. This lower section’s construction is reminiscent of a modern take on Panerai’s method for multi-tiered dials. But that comparison doesn’t really do it justice. It’s simply the first sandwich dial I could think of. The blocky, big hour and minute hands are fully lumed for most of their length. The dial’s center section comes in two fresh colors (turquoise and copper) and one more understated offering (dark brown). The B2, equipped with an automatic Miyota 9039, brings big mechanical value at €475.
Lorier Neptune Series IV
Lorier is a mainstay on the micro brand scene and offers evolution, not wrist-revolution. The husband-and-wife team based in New York has offered period-perfect designs and small-cased comfort for years. Lorier still has a version of their inaugural model, the Neptune, available today. Each iteration has become a more carefully curated, slimmer version of what is, in essence, a ’50s-inspired dive watch.
I do not have a Lorier in my box today. But having owned both a first and second-generation version, I’ll happily vouch for their quality. The movement might seem nothing special today, but the Miyota 90S5 is solid. From experience, it often gives remarkably accurate running out-of-the-box results. Stay tuned to the brand’s website, as the Neptune is restocked every once in a while. This fourth generation of the 39mm watch is 10.3mm thick and still has one of the best-looking flatlink bracelets around. The Neptune is available for $499 (roughly €457).
Ember Rocket
Kickstarter is still alive and kicking, folks! For some reason, the crowdfunding site seems to attract more skepticism these days, but I’m still a fan. It allows startup brands to enter the scene and inspires a sense of community. You just have to be a bit careful and vet the brands before you place your bet!
The Ember Rocket is an example of one I’d be happy to put my money on. You get the Rocket with two straps for £316 (or around €369). This is for the Kickstarter post-Early Bird pledgers. It also comes with the reassurance that the project is already fully funded. You’ll have to wait until next year for the watch, but it may well be worth it. The faceted case is bead-blasted 316L steel with a polished bezel. The watch comes in at 40 × 47mm and is equipped with a Seiko NH38 automatic. With a wealth of fresh colors and clean-cut modernity, getting the Rocket for this price with leather and FKM rubber straps seems like pretty good value to me!
Namica Okami
And finally, we arrive at the Namica Okami. Angular charm seems to be on the rise, and I, for one, welcome more contemporary watch designs (as you can already tell). And though the seventies and eighties may have inspired the Namica Okami (Japanese for wolf) in our retro-obsessed world, its design comes across as fresh and modern. My first contact with the brand had this Okami priced within the magical $500 limit, which equals around €458. However, after its Kickstarter success, it currently sells for $550 in pre-order batches.
So now the Namica is only about €3.60 over my story’s limit of €500. I think it will be well worth the premium when this uniquely modern watch is restocked. Its proportions work well, as it measures 35mm wide and 39mm lug-to-lug. The Miyota 9039 movement inside is a tried-and-trusted engine. My choice might well be the crisp blue dial of the Turbo model, especially on their custom-fitted FKM strap.
How about you? Are you focused on a small collection of worthy grail watches? Or are you playing the field and searching for microbrand value? In the comments below, let me know about your favorite budget-friendly microbrand offerings.
