Fratello Favorites: Daan’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases By Cartier, Hermès, And Hublot

Maybe it’s because I experienced Watches and Wonders from a distance this year, but I have the feeling there weren’t really any big showstoppers among all the novelties. However, that certainly doesn’t mean there weren’t any good releases. And who buys those showstoppers anyway? That’s why, for my list of favorites, I’ve chosen a trio of watches that I would want to wear right here and now. Whether it be the Santos de Cartier Dual Time, the 38mm Hublot Big Bang Integrated, or the Hermès Cut, I would be very happy to add any of these watches to my collection.

Yes, indeed, there are some great new releases on the dressier side as well. Look, for example, at the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric, these green and gray beauties from L.U. Chopard, and Laurent Ferrier’s Classic Moon. This year, though, I’m in a sportier mood. So, without further ado, let’s take a look at some of my favorites from Watches and Wonders 2024.

The Cartier Santos de Cartier Dual Time

By now, you already know very well that my Cartier Santos Galbée XL is one of my favorite watches. That means I follow anything that happens within the Santos family very closely. This year, La Maison added some colorful variations to the Santos-Dumont collection and came with some updates for the Santos de Cartier. Out of all these novelties, the Santos de Cartier Dual Time is my favorite release from the French jeweler/watchmaker. That’s because it takes a few key elements I love and puts them all in one watch.

Santos Galbée 2319 Asia limited edition from 2002 — Image: Wind Vintage

First of all, I almost always wear my Santos Galbée XL when I’m traveling. Its comfort and looks make it the ideal travel companion for me. It’s a shame, though, that I can’t track an additional time zone on mine. The new Dual Time solves this (non-)issue. Second of all, I have always liked the Santos Galbée Asia limited edition from 2002. The new Dual Time version of the Santos de Cartier reminds me a lot of the gray sunburst dial of the great-looking reference 2319.

The new Dual Time might indeed be a bit too big for my 17cm wrist. But as I haven’t been able to try the watch on yet, in my head, it’s still an option. I also feel the price of CHF 8,800 is quite fair for a stainless steel Santos de Cartier with an added complication. That may be because Cartier is using a Sellita SW330 movement as a base.

The Hublot Big Bang Integrated in 38mm

My next favorite from last week’s releases is the Hublot Big Bang Integrated in the new 38mm size. The fact that I’m listing a Hublot watch in my top three favorites is as much a surprise to me as it is to you. I think last year’s encounter with the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski had something to do with it. That watch already had a more reasonable size and a more toned-down design. This year’s 38mm Big Bang Integrated takes that one step further.

Again, I haven’t tried this watch on my wrist yet, but I suspect its 38mm size would work very well on it. I’m particularly attracted to the titanium versions. On those, the sandwiched case is the most noticeable. In a bigger size, the Hublot Big Bang is a beast of a watch. I wouldn’t want to fight with a watch like that on my wrist. But in the 38mm size, it looks a lot more playful, especially with the numerals on the dial and the rubber composite used for the midcase.

Just like Cartier, Hublot also used a Sellita movement as a base for its MHUB1115 caliber. That’s a bit of a shame for a watch that starts at €13,600. But still, this is definitely a Hublot I’d consider adding to my collection.

The Hermès Cut

My final favorite from last week is the new Hermès Cut in stainless steel. It was amusing how this watch caused a little bit of confusion when it arrived at the Fratello office for a sneak preview. People asked whether it was a watch for men or women. And what was up with all those color options for the rubber strap? But ever since I saw the watch for the first time during my visit to the Hermès manufacture last November, I’ve liked it a lot. Besides, I feel it offers great value at its price of €5,900.

Its 36mm size and lug-less design can indeed look a bit small on some wrists. On mine, though, I think it looks perfectly in place. The cushion case has a very original shape, and the transitions from the brushed to polished facets are as sharp as a knife — just as you would expect on a watch called “Cut.” The applied numerals on the dial are made in-house and carry a good amount of lume. Finally, the watch comes with a well-made H-link bracelet that’s very easy to swap out for one of the colorful straps due to its integrated quick-release system.

From the H08, we already knew Hermès was very capable of designing and manufacturing very good-looking and capable sports watches. The new Cut is another very strong contender in this popular category, and I can’t wait to see what Hermès has in store for us in the future.

What do you think of my three favorite Watches and Wonders releases this year, and what were yours? Let me know in the comments below.