Fratello Favorites: The Best (Neo-)Vintage Watches Under €5K — Daan’s Picks From Blancpain, Credor, And Cartier
On Monday, Thomas kicked off another series of Fratello Favorites. Our writers get another chance to share their favorite watches within a certain segment. This time, we are tackling vintage watches under €5K. Like Thomas, I’d also like to add another filter to those search terms. As I’m not very confident with or knowledgeable about vintage watches, I’ll limit my search to neo-vintage ones. I already own a few, like my Cartier Santos Galbée XL, Rolex Explorer, and Breguet Classique 5907. All are from the 2000s, and I’m very happy with both their looks and build quality.
Usually, for such an article, I go to my Chrono24 Notepad and see what fits the search terms. However, I already mentioned most of those during our Fratello Watch List series late last year. Many watches in my article from November fit today’s criteria, so make sure to also take a look there. But, of course, I also went out and tried to find some additional neo-vintage gems for today’s article. I hope you’ll enjoy them.
Image: itimeauthentic
The Seiko Credor Chronograph ref. GCBK99x
Last month, I attended another RedBar get-together in Amsterdam. That evening, the theme was Fears watches as the Amsterdam-based boutique Ace Jewelers had just become an official dealer. Founder Nicholas-Bowman Scargill was there to tell us more about the Fears brand, and, of course, he brought a few watches over to check out. Besides that, it’s always nice to catch up with other enthusiasts and get to know new ones. Right before I was about to leave, I started talking to a member I hadn’t met. After we talked for a bit, I also noticed that he was wearing a watch I’d never seen. It was a Seiko Credor Chronograph ref. GCBK995.
Image: itimeauthentic
That’s the version with a silver dial and blue hands. But there are also versions with a black dial and red hands, and even a limited edition with a carbon dial and orange hands. What they all have in common, though, is a quirky 38mm stainless steel case with a Breitling Chronomat-esque or Ebel-like vibe. Yes, it’s an acquired taste, but I’m a fan. The best part here, however, might be the Jubilee-looking bracelet these models come with. It has a very interesting construction, and it feels very smooth and solid at the same time. Most importantly, though, it looks stunning.
Image: Horlogeforum
I almost bought one
After that RedBar event, I immediately started searching for the model online, but there aren’t many of them out there. That’s understandable because, for their sub-€2,000 price, they look like a steal. I saw the limited-edition version with the carbon dial (ref. GCBK997) offered on a Dutch forum for €1,750. I almost pulled the trigger, but I think I like the version with the silver dial better. It makes the watch look a little more elegant.
Image: Horlogeforum
Inside the Credor GCBK99x series is the automatic Seiko 6S77 movement. Along with its chronograph function, it offers a date and a (somewhat obsolete) power reserve indicator. I’ll certainly stay on the lookout for these Credors because the one I saw that evening positively surprised me. Oh, and did I mention that there are also some two-tone versions out there?
Image: Zeitauktion
A Blancpain Léman or Villeret, perhaps?
When I started searching for watches to feature in this article, the beautiful Blancpain Léman with a big date complication crossed my mind again. Unfortunately, the watches with this complication are a bit out of budget for today’s exercise. However, some other Blancpain models do make the cut, and they’re not half bad!
Image: Zeitauktion
How about a 34mm Blancpain Villeret automatic chronograph in stainless steel from 2010? I suppose it’s probably a bit too young to call “neo-vintage,” but it has a clean white dial with small Roman numerals and nice bevels on the sub-dials. Like many Villeret watches, its case is stepped on both the top and the bottom. But now comes the best part. Inside this reference 1185-1127-58 is an automatic Frédéric Piguet caliber 1185. At the time of its introduction, this was the thinnest automatic chronograph movement at just 5.5mm thick. That’s why this Blancpain Villeret is only 9.5mm from top to bottom. But the best thing of all is that it can be yours for €4,789.
Image: Chrono24
Another watch that uses the Frédéric Piguet caliber 1185 as a base is the Blancpain Léman Flyback Chronograph ref. 2185F.1130.71. It adds a flyback mechanism to the mix, which makes the watch a bit thicker (12.5mm). However, its case is also wider at 38mm, so the proportions are still acceptable. Like the Villeret, it has a stepped bezel, but it also has some stylistic and functional upgrades. I love the bold and pointy numerals at each hour. They work so well with the watch’s sword hands. But the screw-down pushers will also come in handy if you want to take this baby for a swim. All in all, I think this is a killer watch for €4,500.
Image: Million-Watches
The Cartier Santos Galbée ref. 2319
Finally, I wanted to recommend my favorite watch, the Cartier Santos Galbée XL ref. 2823. However, I saw that it’s now very hard to find a good one under €5K. Recently I’ve also been looking at its smaller brother, the Santos Galbée ref. 2319. I’m mostly interested in the Asia-only stainless steel limited edition with a gray sunburst dial and luminous hands and numerals, which is, again, too expensive for today’s exercise. But when I started searching, I did find this nice two-tone example for €4,990.
Image: Million-Watches
Unlike my all-steel one, this version has gold screws in the bracelet and a gold bezel. It also comes with a beautiful guilloché dial that makes me I’m kind of jealous. The one on this particular example does, however, look like it could use a thorough cleaning. On the other hand, it could also look a bit off because of the lighting for the pictures. Anyway, it’s nice that the date window is in a more appropriate spot at 3 o’clock instead of between 4 and 5, like on mine. The case is not only smaller than my Santos Galbée XL, but it’s also more slender, and that’s something that has to suit your style. If it does, then I think this is another great neo-vintage option to add to your collection.
There you have it — some great neo-vintage watches in very different styles. Let me know your thoughts in the comments below. Which one would you pick, or what would be your choice below €5K?
Header image: Zeitauktion
