Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K — Jorg’s Picks From Omega, Rolex, And Cartier
Welcome to another installment of Fratello Favorites! If you’ve been following Fratello recently, you’ll know that this time, we are sharing our favorite vintage watches under €5K. After Thomas kicked the series off and Daan presented his picks just before last weekend, I am third in line to present mine. Selecting them was fun but also quite a challenge because the set budget allows plenty of great options. Then again, I always try to find the watches that I would buy and would want to keep for a long time. That’s when the search gets a little tougher. But just like the rest of the Fratello team of writers, I was more than happy to take on the challenge!
As Thomas explained in his article, the only guidelines we had to stick to were “vintage” and “under €5K.” That seems easy enough, right? As a watch enthusiast, you won’t be fazed by the seemingly unlimited options. As our regular readers know, I like a good list, and I do keep track of a wishlist of future buys. But what if the number-one watch on that list gets picked by another writer before me? Usually, I would steer away from the same picks, but in this case, I won’t. I am so deep down the rabbit hole that it would feel insincere to keep it off my list. But enough pondering, let’s get going with my vintage picks under €5K.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Rolex Datejust ref. 1601
Let’s get the watch I talked about out of the way. I recently wrote a lengthy Top 5 about affordable Rolex Datejust models. If you read that article, you know that it was inspired by my actual wish to add one to my collection in 2025. So forgive me, but I had to include it on this little list as well.
While Thomas kept a broader perspective by mentioning multiple generations that might qualify, I’ll be more specific. And I know Thomas would nod in approval when I told you that I have set my sights on a vintage Datejust ref. 1601. However, as I explained in the article, I haven’t made up my mind about the dial color, which is why you see different variations.
Image: Bulang & Sons
When it comes to picking a Datejust, I am pretty set on my preferences. I want a Datejust with a fluted bezel and a Jubilee bracelet. As I want to add a proper vintage piece to my collection, choosing the ref. 1601 is fairly easy. While the silver-dial version is the classic that I gravitate to most, there are more dial variations to consider.
Image: Bulang & Sons
One of them is a black-dial version, and the second is a salmon-colored dial. Granted, you most likely will not find those under €5K. But you most definitely can get a nice Datejust ref. 1601 in good condition for this budget. For me, it will tick some important boxes, including a proper vintage piece and my first Datejust. So that’s why I want one badly and couldn’t keep it off the list.
Image: Vintage Masters
Omega De Ville Chronograph ref. 145.018
The next pick is a rare bird but a lovely one. I wrote a lengthy article on the Omega De Ville Chronograph ref. 145.018 and expressed my love for the watch. It’s an awesome chronograph that was in production from 1968 to 1970 and was one of the first Omega models powered by caliber 861. This cam-actuated chronograph caliber replaced the column-wheel caliber 321 and famously powered the Moonwatch, among other Omega classics. The De Ville ref. 145.018 is a beautiful classic three-register chronograph with a 35.5mm case with a 13.5mm thickness and a modest 40mm lug-to-lug.
Image: Vintage Masters
The case with its pump-style pushers has the same sporty flair as the Rolex “Pre-Daytona” ref. 6238, which I also adore. There’s a big difference, though: you can actually get this Omega at a decent price. The case was combined with different dials that will determine whether you can get one within our €5K budget. The gray-dial version with colorfully accented sub-dials that I featured in the mentioned article is a very rare bird. As such, you won’t find these under €5K. The same goes for the rare blue-dial version. But the versions with white and silver dials are readily available for friendlier prices within the budget.
Image: steviemac1080
Find the matching bracelet for the watch
Don’t immediately reject it if you find a ref. 145.018 that only has the Seamaster designation on the dial. Omega made the De Ville models a separate collection in 1967. Before that, they used to be part of the Seamaster collection. While the ref. 145.018 was officially introduced in 1968, it was a transitional period, so Omega also created some versions with a Seamaster dial, and some combined the “Seamaster” and “De Ville” wording. I do not have a preference, so I would be fine with any dial if it’s in good condition.
Image: steviemac1080
Most of the De Ville Chronographs you will find nowadays come with leather straps. But I would try to get my hands on the original bracelet because it gives the watch that extra visual presence I want. Plus, I like the charm of a folded vintage Omega bracelet. Expect to see prices for this watch starting at roughly €3.5K and moving up to over €5K for one with a rare dial.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Cartier Santos Carrée ref. 2961
It took quite some time to narrow down my third pick. There are so many great options that would be a great third watch for this list. In the end, I settled on the extravagant two-tone Cartier Santos Carrée ref. 2961. You could go for the regular version with a silver dial with Roman numerals, and you will have to put between €3.5K and €5K on the table.
Image: Bulang & Sons
For the models with the oxblood and slate-gray dials you see in these pictures, prices start just under €5K and quickly move up to roughly €7.5K for one in great condition. But we all like a good challenge, and with a bit of patience, you will be able to find one within the budget.
Image: Bulang & Sons
The Santos Carrée ref. 2961 was part of the Cartier catalog in the 1980s. It features a 29mm × 41mm stainless steel case with a square bezel in yellow gold, a stainless steel bracelet with gold screws, and a beautiful Cartier-branded clasp. Inside the case, you will find the automatic Cartier caliber 077, which is based on the ETA 2671. It’s the perfect reliable power train for this extravagant looker of a watch.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Would I pay €5K for a watch like this?
I adore this watch and would most definitely wear it a lot if I could snag it for €5K. As I already mentioned, I might have to be somewhat patient and check the condition carefully, but I would indeed wait for the right one to pop up over the version with the regular dial with Roman numerals. If I’m going ’80s style, I like to go all in.
Image: Bulang & Sons
It’s often labeled a tasteless decade, but people like me who grew up in that era know better than that. While a lot of the styles and designs from the 1980s are at least debatable, some great watches gloriously celebrated the style of that era. This Cartier Santos Carrée ref. 2961 is a great example of that, and I would gladly add it to my collection.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Final thoughts on my favorite vintage watches under €5K
As I already mentioned, narrowing down my third pick was tough. I didn’t want to choose another model from Rolex or Omega, and that made it harder. On top of that, many of the great picks would not be keepers in my collection. To give you an idea, I looked at the Omega Seamaster “Great White” GMT 2538.20.00, the IWC GST Aquatimer ref. 3536, the Rolex Explorer ref. 14270, and so many more. In the end, I settled for a watch that brings something that all the others don’t — a great smile-inducing reminder of the 1980s in which I grew up. It makes this list of three watches that I could definitely see myself wearing daily.
What do you think of my picks? Share your thoughts on them and/or what vintage watches you’d choose under €5K in the comments below.
