Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K — Mike’s Picks From Jaeger-LeCoultre, Seiko, And Gallet

It’s now my turn to pick the best vintage watches under €5K. Most of my colleagues have already taken their shot, and while some of their choices could have made my list, I’ve opted for unique selections. Let’s see what you think.

Now, before I get into my picks for the best vintage watches under €5K, I’ll share some overarching thoughts. First, €5K is a challenging target value. I say that because there are many great watches under €2.5K and loads of options around or slightly above €10K. Core models from Rolex, Patek, and others really aren’t out there for around €5K. I suppose there are Datejusts, but most would be overpolished or sport a relatively blah dial. Still, I’ve pulled together a list of absolute classics that won’t require fibbing about wanting to afford a more expensive watch. These are the real deal.

The best vintage watches under €5K — Gallet Multichron 12

If you’re a fan of Fratello On Air, you’ll know Balazs and I rarely make it further than a couple of episodes in any given stretch without mentioning the Gallet Multichron 12. Quite simply, no matter the dial style, this is one of the best vintage chronographs ever created. There are several reasons for this claim. In waterproof form — screw-in case back and pump pushers — a 38mm stainless steel case with a 20mm lug spacing has perfect proportions. The various dials exhibit superlative symmetry with a traditional 3-6-9 sub-dial layout and are topped off with a domed crystal.

If all that sounds par for the course in the world of older chronographs, it’s worth going below the surface to understand why a Gallet belongs on a list of the best vintage watches at any price. The Excelsior Park EP40 is the heartbeat of these pieces. Folks, it is, bar none, the finest hand-wound chronograph available at a reasonable price. Winding an EP40 is remarkably similar to using a fine pocket watch. Using the pushers, however, is on another level. There’s nothing wrong with a Valjoux 72 or Venus 178, but the EP40 tops them all in feel.

Finding a Multichron 12 for less than €5K isn’t a slam dunk, but it’s doable with patience and dedication. Black-dial “Jim Clark” models attract a premium, so focus on white versions with pretty blue and red details. “Torch dial” models are uncommon but may fall within budget. Go to work, find a good one, buy it, and revel in the goodness of one of these lovely chronographs.

The Seiko 6159-7000/1 Hi-Beat Professional

Imagine my surprise that the Seiko 6159-7000/7001 fits within the budget for the best vintage watches under €5K. Yes, prices have faltered for reasons I cannot fully explain. Perhaps more examples have emerged as Seiko’s global popularity has grown. Regardless of the reason, the market’s loss is a potential buyer’s gain.

I’ve reviewed the 6159-7000/7001 watches in various articles, but allow me to summarize. The 6159-7000 debuted in 1968 and became the first “Hi-Beat” dive watch with a 36,000vph-frequency automatic movement. It also offered a quick-set date function, screw-down crown, and beastly 44mm by 50mm stainless steel monobloc case. A thick mineral crystal protects a glossy black dial bearing plenty of lume and gold surrounds on its indexes. Even though production ended after 1969 and the -7001 model, the styling influenced Seiko divers for the next half-century. For example, the new Marinemaster SLA081 takes its design directly from these ’60s watches.

Buying a 6159 requires studying, and it’s important to buy one with a movement that’s running well. Servicing the 6159 caliber can be painful, but my experience is that once the movement is serviced and running, it’s reliable and extremely accurate. The size also sounds daunting, but a 6159 is oddly comfortable on a 19mm weathered leather strap. Plus, it’s fun to wear a big-hitting dive watch that isn’t a Submariner. Price-wise, several 6159s are listed on Chrono24 below the magic €5K threshold, making it one of the best vintage watches on the market.

Image: Chrono24

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin

Okay, with this last model, I’m pushing the definition of “vintage.” However, a web search gives the nebulous definition of any watch older than 20–30 years. If we stick with this, then the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin ref. 145.8.79.S qualifies as one of the best vintage watches under €5K. For our budget, this means a 34mm by 40mm stainless steel watch with the manual-wind caliber 849 inside. I say this because JLC made 18K gold versions as well.

Image: Chrono24

Admittedly, I’m biased toward the ’90s Master Ultra-Thin as my dad has one, and it has always been one of my favorites. The simple dial, with a mix of applied numerals and chevrons, pairs perfectly with dagger hour and minute hands. The design lacks superfluous details and looks beautiful in the optional silver or black hues. Plus, it works on nearly any color or style of 17mm strap.

Image: Chrono24

As large as my Seiko choice was, this Jaeger-LeCoultre may sound small on the opposite end of the spectrum. I’d recommend trying one before making that decision based on the dimensions. The case of this watch is only 5.5mm thick, which makes it paper-thin on the wrist. It’s a lovely dress piece that can hold its own against all the big-brand options. Plus, prices are significantly below the cap on sites like Chrono24.

Best vintage watches under €5K

So, there we have it. My best vintage watches under €5K include a chronograph, a diver, and a dress piece. As mentioned, I think all these examples are long-term keepers. None are stand-ins for more expensive watches, and each shows that the owner put deliberate thought into the purchase. Naturally, I’m interested to hear your thoughts in the comments section below!