Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases — Mike’s Picks From Patek, Parmigiani, And More
Watches and Wonders 2025 has left us, but did it leave an impression? The simple answer is “yes.” This was a much better show than the 2024 rendition. Proper new releases came to Geneva, and, overall, we left feeling satisfied. Without further ado, here are my picks for the best watches from the show.
Patek Philippe 6196P — kicking off the best Watches and Wonders 2025 releases
Since I’ve become aware of and interested in Patek Philippe, I’m not sure if the brand has released anything that I’ve truly liked. Big, flashy pieces with loads of glitz have been the standard, and honestly, I haven’t loved any of them. I’ve pleaded for a plain-Jane Calatrava, and one finally debuted this year at Watches and Wonders. Granted, it’s in platinum and retails for €47,520, but I guess that’s the price of doing business these days.
The salmon-dial 6196P is larger than I’d like with its 38mm case. I’d also love to see a manual-winding central-seconds model again instead of a sub-seconds dial, but this is a minor quibble. The 30‑255 PS caliber with its 65 hours of power reserve isn’t as finely bridged as vintage movements, but it’s still lovely. This watch is simple, clean, and, all at once, reveals how hard it is to make a damn good dress watch. Welcome back from the land of Cubitus, Patek Philippe. Stay tuned for a lengthier review of this one.
Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon 11
I’m a fan of pocket watches, but I can’t admit to owning a tourbillon version. The Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon 11 is a wristwatch made in this style that celebrates the enduring friendship between Abraham-Louis Breguet and John Arnold. The watch in question is an edition of just 11 pieces, and it’s damn expensive at CHF 129,800. Still, the white Grand Feu enamel dial is stunningly clean and beautiful.
The constant-force tourbillon doesn’t ruin the dial, but it looks like something from centuries past. It has 100 hours of power reserve and displays true-beat seconds. Flip the watch on its backside, and there’s a history lesson. The messaging on the back is clear, as is the movement architecture. I loved this watch, and even if its 41.5mm case is too big on my wrist, it’s a beautiful object.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF 36mm Stone Blue
For two years now, I’ve lusted over something from Parmigiani Fleurier, and while the 36mm Tonda PF in Stone Blue isn’t a novelty in the truest sense, it was the first time I saw it. This watch is a proper competitor to all of the biggest names in the integrated-bracelet genre, and for my money, it wins and wins big. Parmigiani watches feel robust, but they wear like jewelry. The ridged platinum bezels, sublimely thin bracelets, and comfortingly sparse dials come together to create some of the loveliest modern watches on the scene.
The PF770-HM automatic movement within a Parmigiani is also worthy of praise. Finishing is a priority along with performance, including 60 hours of power reserve. Too often, we ruminate about resale value when thinking about this amount of money (CHF 21,400). Frankly, for whatever reason, Parmigiani doesn’t seem to rate among the big kids in the industry, but that’s a crying shame. Screw the secondary market and go after one of these watches. They’re that good on the wrist.
Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. SLGB003
It’s not that I haven’t enjoyed what Grand Seiko has done over the past years, but nothing has stirred me quite like the new U.F.A. A 37mm titanium case and bracelet make for a perfect combination on the wrist. Indeed, the watch feels like nothing, but it’s so much more. At €12,000, it’s not inexpensive, but it stacks up well against the competition.
The woven, snowy-landscape-like dial looks lovely, even if we know there’ll be more variants in the future. Who cares, though? This is what Grand Seiko does best when the company isn’t overly attached to its past. Breaking out and making a standard that bests the competition is why we love this brand. Oh, and a new Spring Drive 9RB2 caliber with 72 hours of power reserve and stunning accuracy doesn’t hurt! The fine folks from Grand Seiko UK mentioned that a year has over 31,000,000 seconds, and this watch errs by just ±20 of them. Let that sink in…
Eberhard Contodat Chronograph — the last picks for the best Watches and Wonders 2025 releases
You’ll get a full review of this one in the next day or so, but Eberhard dropped a lovely surprise on us at Watches and Wonders. The Contodat Chronograph is a reissue of the early ’70s Contograf. Even if we’re running on empty with retro releases, this is a damn good one. The 39mm watch looks like quality, and it fits nicely.
A top-grade Sellita movement, a comfortable bracelet, and a 100m water resistance rating make this a compelling introduction. Plus, at less than €3,970, it’s reasonably compelling. Eberhard isn’t a household name, but the company has been around for ages. Why not try a distinct offering instead of sticking to the mainstream?
That’s all for now
I stopped at five picks for my best Watches and Wonders 2025 releases. I could have selected more, which is telling. Lange, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and other brands brought the goods too. This was a better year than 2025 in so many ways. Sure, there were new dial colors, but I witnessed many new lines and a focus on movements. Let me know what you think of these picks, and get ready for more of these articles from my colleagues.
