Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 — Mike’s Picks From Lederer, Armin Strom, Ming, And More
It’s time for a look at the best watches of 2024, according to me! These lists can be challenging to compile because the year is long and sees many releases. I’ve managed to winnow it down to seven picks, though, so let’s begin.
Choosing the best watches of 2024 marked a change for me. In the past, approachable watches dominated my lists. This year, it seemed that more affordable watches comprised dial updates and color changes. Therefore, my list contains more Haute Horlogerie than usual.
The best watches of 2024 — The Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer
Why did the Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer get me so excited? After all, it’s a 44mm CHF 146,000 stainless steel watch — a piece I can neither afford nor wear. Yet the dedication to having a watch pass three separate chronometer tests in a highly clinical package struck my fancy. It’s not necessary, but necessity left the station ages ago with watches and the practical need for derring-do.
Two constant-force mechanisms, twin escapements, and twin gear trains summarize the in-house hand-winding 9012 caliber. Lederer has produced just eight of these watches, each with chronometer certificates from Besançon, Glashütte, and Geneva. What a tour de force!
The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance – First Edition
I was tasked with covering the Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance – First Edition. It turns out that it wasn’t much of a chore at all. Just one look at this piece and it’s obvious why it landed on my list of the best watches of 2024. The twin sky-blue grenage dials look stunning within the 39mm white gold case. That praise, by the way, isn’t a given as I’m normally not attracted to these futuristic open-worked art pieces.
The in-house manual-winding caliber ARF22 has twin regulating systems connected by a resonance clutch spring. Essentially, the systems keep each other in balance. With just 25 pieces priced at €133,000, these won’t be for everyone. Those who can afford one will be rewarded with a wearable exotic timepiece that looks fantastic.
The Ming 37.09 Bluefin Diver
There are very few Ming creations that I dislike. The brand’s aesthetic, attention to detail, innovative dials, and cases usually result in a winning package. Earlier this year, the brand followed up the 18.01 H41 diver with a new undersea timepiece, and it easily takes a spot among the best watches of 2024 for me. The 37.09 Bluefin uses the more modern 37-series case and adds a crown that controls an internal dive bezel.
Then, there’s an internal metalized sapphire dial and copious amounts of Super-LumiNova X1. I waited three months to see this watch in person, and it was even better than in the pictures. The watch carries a 600m depth rating, which is more than enough for anyone. It’s also still comfortable thanks to its 38mm stainless case and 12.8mm thickness. At CHF 4,950, the Bluefin sold out, but Ming has told us that more will come. Let’s hope!
The Berneron Mirage 34
The Berneron Mirage 34 isn’t just one of the best watches of 2024, but it’s also my favorite. The follow-up to the Mirage 38 works better for me on so many levels. First, the smaller cases mean the watches fit my wrist. Next, I’m not always a fan of stone dials, but both the tiger eye and lapis lazuli versions are arresting in person. The fact that dial production encounters a high failure rate makes it all the more special.
Inside, the exclusive hand-winding caliber 215 is built to fit the case perfectly. It features a mainplate and bridges in 18K gold and offers 72 hours of power reserve. For CHF 51,000 with production in 2026, these watches are divisive. Some see them as derivatives of the Cartier Crash. That’s a hackneyed comment resulting from the Berneron Mirage’s asymmetrical case shape. See these in person or online, and enjoy.
The Atelier Wen Perception Titanium Millésime Mù
Purple will go down as the “it” color of 2024, and the Atelier Wen Perception Titanium Millésime Mù is a great representative of the trend. The Perception has been a Fratello favorite, and we’ve been fortunate to go hands-on with many of the company’s releases. In October, we had the purple lightweight watch in for a test, and the pieces were in London a month later.
The hand-guilloché dial fits within a lovely case that features a bracelet finished to a high standard. Inside, the watch uses the Dandong SL1588A automatic with 41 hours of power reserve. The specs may not be overly exciting, but reliability is a strong suit along with an extensive service network to help assuage concerns about a Chinese watch. Sadly, this pick for one of the best watches of 2024 is now sold out, but perhaps one will show up secondhand. When the ordering period was open, the watch sold for US$3,588, a fair price considering the level of finishing on these watches.
The Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Arabic Vintage
I had never written about a Moritz Grossmann watch before taking on the Benu 37 Arabic Vintage. I read about the brand, the attention to detail, and the commitment to traditional manufacturing techniques. The Arabic Vintage struck me as a standout example because of the impressive German silver dial with its matte black surface and raised numerals. The 37mm stainless case is also right up my alley!
Of course, the movement within a Moritz Grossmann is part of the reason this piece makes my list of the best watches of 2024. The hand-winding caliber 102.1 has all the hallmarks of a finely made Glashütte movement. This includes a two-thirds plate and an engraved balance cock. Other niceties are gold chatons and a unique asymmetric-arm escapement. It’s a work of art and, as a result, the watch costs €39,700. Sure, that’s a lot for a stainless steel dress watch, but what a uniquely beautiful one it is!
The Oak & Oscar Atwood
My last pick for the best watches of 2024 may surprise you, but the Oak & Oscar Atwood is deserving. It’s nice to pay tribute to an affordable chronograph in this day and age of inflationary pricing. Plus, I have a lot of time for Chase Fancher, one of the “OGs” of the small, independent brand sub-genre. This May, the Atwood debuted with a hand-winding top-end Sellita AMT5100M. The movement contains a column wheel and offers a flyback function.
Furthermore, Oak & Oscar produces one of the nicest bracelets at any price. The 39mm Atwood comes in white, charcoal, or navy and sells for just US$2,450 on a strap or US$2,650 on the bracelet. That’s an attractive offer for an incredibly versatile watch.
The best watches of 2024
This year was a tough one for the watch industry, but it had plenty of great releases. As mentioned, I found happiness in pieces from smaller brands. Yes, many are expensive, but there were some approachable gems. As always, let us know your thoughts on my choices. All the best for 2025!
