Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 — Nacho’s Picks From Sinn, Doxa, Tudor, And Omega
It’s hard to believe that 2024 is just a day away from being over. Yet, as quickly as these last few weeks have flown by, in hindsight, it’s been a big year for watches. As is now tradition, the Fratello team takes turns sorting through the best watches of 2024 and sharing our favorites with you. Today, I have the privilege of playing us out. So, with just one brief word of context coming up from me, let’s take a look at my top four favorite releases of 2024.
To be honest, I feel it’s a bit redundant to say it at this point, but I’ll make a quick note for the benefit of those less familiar with this series: the watches in this list represent only a very thin and subjective slice of the countless releases that took place this year. Opinions may vary, but these are the watches that I can’t stop thinking about. These are my four favorite watches released within the last 12 calendar months, in what may even be the correct chronological order of release. I have also included an additional (and slightly self-indulgent) section containing several honorable mentions. Now, with that aside, let’s jump right in.
The best watches of 2024 — The downsized Doxa Sub 200T
What can I say? The last thing I needed in my life was more Doxa watches to choose from. The brand’s catalog already contained a purchase-stalling selection of different dial colors. Now the dilemma expands to the matter of size. I’ve said it before, but it’s worth repeating: I consider myself an imminent Doxa owner. It’s not a matter of “if” but “when.” The thing is, you want to get your first purchase right, and when you’re looking at the brand’s website, there’s so much to choose from that you begin circling several models but end up overwhelmed and leave the task of purchasing one for another day.
That said, the Sub 200T’s sweet-spot case dimensions (39mm × 41.5mm × 10.7mm) are almost irresistible. Pairing them with a tempting price of just €1,590 on the bracelet (€1,550 on rubber) has made this diver widely wearable and placed Doxa’s classic design well within reach of most people. If there is one “but” in the equation, it’s the 18mm lug spacing. While I don’t mind it too much on what is essentially a reproportioned vintage reissue, it still makes us hoarders of 20mm straps cry a single tear of defeat. Nonetheless, having experienced these watches earlier this year, I can confirm that the bracelet is comfortable enough that you’ll rarely want to swap it out for anything else. The Doxa Sub 200T is a winner in my book, and it deserves a spot on my list.
A bright light in the dark: the Sinn U50 S L
Making its way into my list is a quiet release from everyone’s favorite tool-watch brand from Frankfurt am Main, Sinn. I am, of course, referring to the U50 S L, which debuted as part of a multi-watch release (including the equally cool U50 Hydro models). This black DLC-coated take on the brand’s 41mm dive watch has been given a lume-dial upgrade, eliminating the red and white found on the dial and hands of the standard U50 in favor of dark, contrasting elements. It’s a monochromatic affair that lends the 500m-rated dive watch a seriously tactical, no-nonsense feel. However, the brightly glowing dial gives it just the right amount of nonsense — my kind of nonsense.
To read more about the U50 S L, check out Jorg’s introduction article here. I’ve gone on record stating that Sinn (like Doxa) is one of those brands that will eventually find a home in my collection. And the U50 S L could be as good a contender as any to do so. Looking at the Sinn website, it’s not too late for that to be a possibility as some of the 500 pieces produced may still be available. For €3,110, you can get your hands on the undisputed best lume-dial diver of 2024.
The Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT
This one does not require much explanation. In recent years, Tudor has not been a brand to disappoint. In fact, you could say it has been on quite a streak of compelling releases. The Pelagos FXD GMT is just that. And though my heart belongs to the black-dial FXD “USN” introduced in 2023, this year’s fixed-bar novelty from Tudor still deserves a spot on the list of the best watches of 2024. If you want to read more, check out Jorg’s hands-on review here. At €4,630, the Pelagos FXD GMT is not the priciest watch on my list. However, it certainly has plenty of tricks up its sleeve and would make up a perfect two-watch collection alongside my next pick.
Taking to the skies with the Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified
It seems I’ve left the best for last in the form of the incomparably cool Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified. Talk about a breath of fresh air in the Speedmaster family. Coming in hot on the heels of the new First Omega in Space and white-dial Speedmaster Professional, this was my Speedy highlight of 2024. After seeing the military-only version of the watch in late summer/early fall, many of us were left hungry for more. How come the USAF pilots got to have all the fun? As it turns out, the exclusivity didn’t last forever. Omega didn’t take too long to deliver the goods and make a civilian version of the pilot’s chronograph for us all to enjoy.
This two-register Speedmaster harks back to the Flightmaster models of the 1970s but only in its use of bright colors on the dial. For those who already own the classic Moonwatch, this watch could easily exist beside it in one collection as both tick completely different boxes. And though the Pilot Flight Qualified model is quite the step up price-wise (at €10,300), I must confess to having found myself doing the mental gymnastics to try and justify purchasing one. Therefore, a place of honor in this year’s list is well deserved. For an in-depth look at this latest Speedmaster, check out RJ’s article and video here.
The best watches of 2024 — Honorable mentions
As promised, here is my list’s somewhat self-indulgent “honorable mentions” portion. It’s the encore of the watch-media world. The list is over, but you know there will be more. So there’s no need to keep on cheering. Here are a handful more watches I feel deserve some credit for their newfound material existence. Without beating around the bush of waxing poetic, I’ll just call them out (in no particular order) — the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49, the 42mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique, the Zenith Defy Revival A3648, the Serica 1174 Parade, and the VPC Type 37HW.
And though, out of those five additional watches, I’ve only managed to purchase the VPC, I feel that a version of myself with unlimited means would have happily made each of these his this year. Could I have added more to this section? Absolutely. I can’t remember a year since I started writing for Fratello when I could have listed so many personal highlights. However, boiling it down to the very best has been a good exercise in thoughtful restraint.
Final thoughts
Overall, it has been a big year for watches, and I’m well aware that this list could easily be twice as long. However, I’m going to call it here. These are my favorite watches of 2024. Now on to the next year and what it holds in store for us. Stay tuned because we’ll have all the news for you here on Fratello. In the meantime, what are your favorites from this year? And what do you think of my picks? Be sure to share your thoughts and favorites in the comments section below.
