Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 — RJ’s Picks From Daniel Roth, Piaget, Omega, And More

According to some, 2024 was a slow year for new watches. I beg to differ! It might have been slow in sales but not in new models to choose from. I haven’t been writing as much for the magazine as I did in the past or as I would like to, but I have been following all new releases of 2024 with great interest. The list of interesting new watches is almost too long to make a nice selection without forgetting or leaving out a few pieces. You will find all the 2024 releases we covered on this page.

You may have noticed that my taste in watches has slowly evolved over the past few years from sports watches to somewhat dressier ones. My focus was on sports watches for a long time, and I still love them, but I have been looking at different things recently for my collection. That said, I will not disappoint you by not including a watch from my favorite model line in this overview.

The good thing (but also quite frustrating sometimes) is that I did not consider any budget when going through my favorite watches of 2024. I have not made any big watch purchases this year (weirdly enough, other things in life took priority). Hopefully, though, that will change in 2025. I have bought a bunch of (neo-)vintage Omega Constellations, which I happen to “casually” collect. I’ve also added some other neat watches, ranging from several Swatches to the recent Grøne Manueel One.

Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold

I have a soft spot for Breguet, and the models that Daniel Roth designed and developed for this centuries-old company are among my favorites. When Daniel Roth and Louis Vuitton invited me over to have a look at the new Daniel Roth collection last year, I fell head over heels for it. This year, they showed us the new Tourbillon in rose gold. What a watch! This could easily be my exit watch or “one-watch collection.” To hell with water resistance. Just take it off before you jump into the pool.

This Daniel Roth Tourbillon in rose gold isn’t all new, of course. It harks back to the Daniel Roth models from 1989, the year after the genius watchmaker left Breguet. It’s close to his first watch, the Tourbillon ref. C187. Anyway, the new rose gold model is a small (35.5mm × 38.6mm × 9.2mm) watch using Roth’s traditional double-ellipse case shape. Compared to the original 1989 model, the new case is snug and nicer on the wrist due to the slightly curved lugs.

It’s small, at least on my wrist, but it looks sophisticated and refined. You could say it makes me look better too! Kidding aside, the rose gold with its guillochage en ligne is simply ace. It doesn’t stop there, though, as the caliber DR001, designed and developed by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, is a huge part of the attraction. My colleague Jorg wrote an in-depth article on the Daniel Roth Tourbillon in rose gold here.

The Daniel Roth Tourbillon in rose gold is easily one of the most attractive watches I’ve ever worn (though the yellow gold version from 2023 is delightful as well). Due to its price of CHF 155,000 (excluding all sorts of governmental robbery), it will remain a dream watch for me.

Piaget Polo 79

“Holy s#$%” or similar words came out of my mouth when I opened the email from Piaget showing a render of the then-upcoming Polo 79. A few weeks later, I found myself in Gstaad with colleagues from other watch media to witness the official introduction of this watch. You can read my “hot take” on it here.

I have always enjoyed looking at the original Piaget Polo, with its “gadroons” on the bracelet and case making it a harmonious design. All later Piaget Polo models, especially the more modern Polo S, had little to do with the watch that Yves Piaget introduced to the world in 1979. The Polo 79 is in the spirit of the first design and updated to modern standards. It’s also much more solid than the original watch since design techniques and production methods have improved drastically over the last 45 years.

The 1980s sit very well with me, but I guess that applies to everyone who grew up in that decade. So, of course, part of my admiration for the Polo 79 is my nostalgia for a long-gone era. Having or wearing a watch based on that period might make you feel like going back in time for a brief moment or thinking of all the good things you remember. It applies to any watch from a certain era you have fond memories of. For me, it’s the 1980s and our cozy chalet-style home, gray and white marble floors, a complete and happy family, excellent music via one of the first CD players, great movies and TV series, our bloodhound and English basset hound, and so on.

Besides all that, the Polo 79 is an impressive piece of engineering. Everything, including the dial and hands, is made of 18K gold. This watch is cooler than a Day-Date, more exciting than a 222, and more “dynasty” than Patek’s Cubitus promotion video.

I can’t wait to try it on again when I visit Piaget. The retail price is €81,500 (including VAT).

Omega Speedmaster Professional

My article from last week (here) explains that it was a great year for Speedmaster enthusiasts. The introduction of the white-dial Speedmaster was not a total surprise as former Bond actor Daniel Craig wore it on the red carpet at the end of 2023. The reception of this new version of the traditional Moonwatch has been great among enthusiasts and first-time buyers.

Purists might want the black-dial Moonwatch, and I fully agree. But another (larger) crowd out there wants options when purchasing a watch. The black-dial Moonwatch would still be my first choice, but as I have built up a collection of Speedmasters, most of them in the classic configuration, it’s nice to add another flavor.

I missed out on the 1997 Speedmaster Professional Albino with its creamy dial, and it has become slightly too costly for me to add that one to my collection. The same can be said for the 2008 Alaska Project. But I do own the 2015 Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award with the white dial. Still, the new Moonwatch with the white dial is different and shiny due to its lacquered finish.

Omega handed the white-dial Moonwatch to me when it came out and allowed me to wear it for a while. It was a very convincing experience, and funnily enough, it got me a lot of positive comments from people who are not necessarily into watches. The white dial makes it stand out. This version also shows that the Speedmaster is not just about the Moon landing. It’s also a great design that has withstood the tests of time flawlessly. The Speedmaster Professional with the white dial comes in one basic configuration, meaning it has the sapphire front crystal and a transparent case back for you to enjoy its caliber 3861. Then, Omega lets you choose from two straps and a bracelet. I’d go for the bracelet and add a strap later.

The new Omega Speedmaster Professional with a white dial retails for €9,000 (including VAT). You can find my hands-on review of the watch here.

Singer Divetrack

Singer Reimagined is part of the Singer Group, the American brand known for its bespoke Porsche 911 versions. About 10 years ago, Marco Borraccino, an Italian watch designer, picked up the glove to develop high-end chronograph watches. And so he did. This year, after focusing solely on watches inspired by racing, Singer Reimagined introduced its first dive watch, the Divetrack.

And quite frankly, the Singer Divetrack blew my mind. It’s not only due to how Borraccino worked with the movement to indicate the dive chill-dive-fly time centrally or the regular time under the bezel above the 6 o’clock lugs (a full explanation can be found here) but also thanks to the design of the watch itself. It has massive Grandfather Tuna and PloProf vibes but in a modern, higher-end execution. It’s the King of Diving Cool.

Inside this watch is Singer’s AgenGraphe 24-h Automatic Chronograph movement, a variation of the caliber the company also used in its previous releases. It can be observed through the sapphire crystal on the back of the watch.

The Singer Divetrack is an impressive and massive piece of engineering with a design that makes me, as a non-diver, also want to wear it, just as I do with my PloProf. Trust me; it’s only the retail price of CHF 85,000 (excluding taxes) that’s keeping me from doing so.

Honorable mentions

My colleague Mike has already mentioned Berneron Mirage 34 on his list. If he hadn’t, I would have included it here. The Tiger Eye is my absolute favorite configuration. I appreciate it when a case and movement are a perfect fit, and I especially love a snug fit when the case has a special shape.

Another watch among my favorites of 2024 is the Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde. The Toric is not new to Parmigiani, but the company decided to overhaul it and took inspiration from 1960s dress watches. I could only wear the new Toric Petite Seconde watches during our meeting with Parmigiani at Watches and Wonders, but they left a lasting impression. They have beautifully hand-finished dials and stunning gold hands, all fitted in a beautiful gold case with a knurled bezel. Additionally, the hand-wound PF780 movement is crafted out of gold and decorated with Côtes de Fleurier.

My favorite watches of 2024

Although I could have added more watches, the ones above stood out for me, regardless of their price tags. In yesterday’s podcast, I included some more affordable favorites of 2024 too. I hope 2025 will bring more horological goodness to us (in all price brackets). Hopefully, the watch industry will show resilience as 2024 was not easy for most brands and their retailers.

Which of my picks do you like the most? Feel free to also share your favorite watches of 2024 in the comments.