Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 — Thomas’s Picks From Seiko, Lorier, And RZE

Finding gems in a shrinking segment

March 14, 2024

comments 20

The sub-€1,000 segment used to be teeming with amazing watches from microbrands and long-established mainstream brands alike. Today, a lot of them have crossed the €1K mark. It can almost make you feel as if €1,000 isn’t a boatload of money, which it is, especially if it’s all in pennies. Jokes aside, although there may be fewer obvious contenders than before, I think we should still set the bar quite high. These are my three subjective picks for the best watches under €1,000 that are available today.

Of course, you expand your options by venturing into the secondhand market. For this series, however, we chose not to. Each writer will share what he feels are the best watches available to buy new within this specific segment in 2024.

The best watches under €1,000: Pick #1 — Seiko SPB317

My first choice is one that I get to see regularly. It happens to grace the wrist of my esteemed colleague Daan quite often. And although I had to roast it a little in a Sunday Morning Showdown, I secretly really like it. Well, I guess it’s not a secret anymore.

The SPB317 is a Seiko diver that gets the basics right. It is simple, Spartan even, but executed well. You get the vintage-Seiko-diver-inspired C-shaped case in a manageable 41mm size. You also get a matte black dial and a black bezel insert. Of course, you get a ton of insanely bright Lumibrite, and you even get a neatly hidden date at the 4:30 position. Like many of you, I could live without the last one, but hey, at least it is unobtrusive.

Inside ticks the 6R35 caliber, offering a 70-hour power reserve. Don’t pick the SPB317 if you are an accuracy nut; its movement is specified to run within +25 to -15 seconds per day. But, at the price of exactly €1,000, you will have to accept a compromise somewhere.

The best watches under €1,000: Pick #2: Lorier Hydra Zulu

The second entry for my list of sub-€1,000 favorites would perhaps be my first choice if pressed. This is the Lorier Hydra Zulu that I got to go hands-on with a while back. Lorier continuously proves how much is still possible in this most competitive price segment. Granted, with Lorier, you sacrifice refinement in execution but not in design. And that slight roughness around the edges has the serendipitous effect of making these vintage-inspired watches truly feel vintage too.

The Hydra Zulu is plain fun to me. Its blacked-out case and uniquely lumed dial make it seem like a watch straight out of an ’80s action-hero movie. The rubber strap from Bonetto Cinturini is a perfect match. I also love that Lorier sticks to domed Hesalite crystals despite probably alienating a potential client base by doing so. We need more brands to make distinct and clear choices like that. Otherwise, everything looks and feels the same.

The Hydra Zulu features the Miyota caliber 9075, making this watch a flyer GMT. Lorier was quick to adopt this caliber, making this watch a reasonably rare offering within the sub-€1,000 segment. Plus, with a price tag of US$599, it is quite substantially sub-€1,000 to boot.

The best watches under €1,000: Pick #3: RZE Resolute Pro

My final subjective pick for the best watches under €1,000 is the RZE Resolute Pro. Now, I could go for the Fratello edition we just announced, but since this article is supposed to have a shelf life beyond the pre-order window of that one, I will stick with the regular Jet Black Enamel version.

What you get here is an outspokenly sporty watch in a hard-coated titanium case on a hard-coated titanium bracelet. A flat sapphire crystal completes the scratch-resistant package around the black enamel(!) dial and Miyota 90S5 caliber. The 40mm case wears extremely well, not least of all because it is only 10.5mm thick. Still, it will withstand 10 ATM of pressure underwater, keeping the movement inside nice and dry. Add a toolless micro-adjustable clasp to the mix, and you have a truly amazing value prop here for US$659.

If you follow my writing, you know I love to geek out on design. A good watch, to me, is a great design first, then executed with the right features. You can tick all the specs boxes in the world, but without a proper design, I am uninterested. Now, the RZE Resolute Pro doesn’t break new ground in this respect. However, it is cohesive, non-derivative, and aesthetically and conceptually congruent. Because of this, I have no trouble pointing people towards the Resolute Pro when they ask me about the best watches under €1,000.

Closing thoughts

There you have it — my three subjective picks for the best watches under €1,000 on the market today! Of course, many more watches are worthwhile in this segment. The Seiko, Citizen, and Casio catalogs have plenty of gems. Baltic is another brand with particularly strong contenders in this price bracket. The Serica 6190 is still within budget to qualify, and it is a really good watch. But I have to leave something for my beloved colleagues, right? Keep an eye on Fratello for more of these articles soon!

The three watches above are the ones I would currently pick for myself. These are also the three I would wholeheartedly recommend to friends and family shopping with a €1K budget.

What would your favorite watches under €1,000 be in 2024? Let us know in the comments below!

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Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 — Thomas’s Picks From Seiko, Lorier, And RZE

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MB
MarkBu says:

Mar 14, 2024 at 11:15

Three fine watches, but the first two are flawed – the Seiko needs a proper movement and the Lorier a proper crystal for them to find their way into my watch box. The RZE absolutely nails it though and one will eventually find its way to me. The trouble is, and I hate to say it is that although I really like the dial on the Fratello edition, it’s the black enamel dial on the standard model that really grabs me I know, I’m boring.

I’m looking forward to seeing the choices from other contributors; If C. Ward, Traska, Farer etc. don’t make these lists at least once, then there’s something wrong in the world.

Reply
SM
Stephen.M says:

Mar 14, 2024 at 11:17

Each watch in my collection is under $1,000 USD and each could be a strong contender for “best”. I have an everyday watch from Traska (Commuter 36), a dress watch from Lorier (Zephyr), and knock-around watch from Citizen (Promaster Diver 37). But the one that has surprised me with how much I like it and enjoy wearing it is my Vero Meridian. For $795 you get a Sellita SW-210-01 manual wind movement with 42 hours of PR, display case back, sapphire crystal on the front with dual AR coating, and a fantastic bracelet with micro adjust. Comes in a great size: 38 x 44.5 x 9.4, with 18mm lug width.

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1. Thomas van Straaten says:
  
  Mar 14, 2024 at 16:39
  
  Great options! Enjoy them!
  
  Reply
Enuona says:

Mar 14, 2024 at 12:08

Believe the case design of SPB 317 is very very good, thus that has earned its place in this company. As for field watches I don’t believe there’s a lot of sub 1K fixed bezel watches that makes a lot of sense for actual field usage, but I believe the RZE does and have done so for some time. Personally, I disregard “everything dirty dozen” for that purpose, and RZE is more “real deal” field from my perspective.

A matter of style preferences and so forth, but technically the DSA divers would provide really really hard competition in their segment and price bracket, and it has a long standing reputation which is caretaken.

Finally, I keep Traska Venturer GMT and Commuter 38 no date in the back of my head.

If forced to drop some to get down to 3, I’d ditch the Venturer because I don’t need GMT and SPB 317 because of my reluctance towards the movement and Seiko’s +/- policy.

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Peter says:

Mar 14, 2024 at 12:15

Imho the hand wind chronographs with the P3133 are simply unbeatable in the 1000€ price range.
They have so much history (the transition from VJ7733/VJ7734 to P3133) and so much space heritage…
Even OKEAH and Sturmanskie limited re-editions are well below 1k…

Reply
DG
GoldenYears says:

Mar 14, 2024 at 12:20

Hi Thomas,

Nice picks! If I am not wrong, all the brands you chose source most, if not all, of their parts from Asia. There’s nothing wrong with that although I myself prefer Swiss Made watches and movements. But one day soon I will buy my first luxury Japanese watch. Certainly, many microbrands use Japanese movements.

I am just wondering if you see any similarities between the “quartz revolution” or crisis back in the 1970s and early 1980’s and what’s occurring now.

With the big European brands all moving upmarket and focusing on producing and selling much more expensive watches (as reflected by the huge price increases of the last two years), they are slowing giving up the below 2,500 € sector to the bottom of the rung brands, the smaller brands, the budget brands, and the microbrands — who in turn are increasing their prices.

Is this another revolution or just a major paradigm shift or maybe even a temporary hiccup?

Reply
1. Thomas van Straaten says:
  
  Mar 14, 2024 at 16:47
  
  Interesting idea!
  I think it is a complex combination of a ton of factors, but the fact that the group of ultra-wealthy is getting both bigger and wealthier is probably enabling established luxury brands to almost freely move up-market. The aficionado, who is much more sensitive to what you are actually getting for the money, is left looking at it in amazement. And so, aficionado-focused brands now have a much broader range to operate in. I think microbrands will not necessarily get more expensive, but there will be lower and higher-segment microbrands catering to the gap left behind by the mainstream brands. At least, that is where I have put my bets, as you know 😉 I still see aggressive price-fighter microbrands emerge every day, but also higher segment offerings now.
  But who knows, I am yet to see a truly sense-making analysis of what is going on in the market right now. We’ll have to see!
  
  Reply
  1. DG
    GoldenYears says:
    
    Mar 14, 2024 at 17:17
    
    Thanks, yes Thomas. I see the whole market shifting in different ways. As you say, a ton of complex things are occurring at the same time. It’s like a vaccum is being created as we speak (creating many opportunities) and many of the watches we thought were aspirational but still attainable are now all of a sudden too expensive for many. Luxury watches may only be affordable for the very affluent in the future. It’s a cascading series of events and all the pieces are moving. I looked at some of the revolutions that occurred in the watch industry over the past 100 years. In many ways, a revolution of sorts may be occurring in the watch market present day. I don’t want to be too dramatic but the implications are many.
    
    Reply
DM
TacoPants says:

Mar 14, 2024 at 15:06

I’m 42. I didn’t learn about the original 62 mas until probably 10-15 years ago. So for me the archetypal Seiko diver has a cushion case and a crown at 4pm.

And to that end, the spb317 seems to me like the absolute pinnacle evolution of that slow multi-decade evolution. Right in a million little ways. But not splashy. So maybe that’s why it still seems overshadowed by the spb14x 62 mas reinterpretations. But man, it’s so excellent. I’ll stop now before this turns into a gratuitous love letter ?

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1. Thomas van Straaten says:
  
  Mar 14, 2024 at 16:47
  
  We can never have enough love letters on Fratello! 😉
  
  Reply
2. Enuona says:
  
  Mar 14, 2024 at 20:54
  
  I’m fresh, but I don’t believe I have come across any diver/fieldwatch that has nailed crown position and protection better and more elegant than that watch. I’d me more than happy to be proven wrong, but I have a hard time figuring out how, and I do have played a bit with that thought. I probably would have to see it to understand it if there are any. Beside, the date is placed where I believe it should be, and the indices are right too. Superb design.
  
  Reply
velveta says:

Mar 14, 2024 at 15:13

In my opinion, SWC (Swiss Watch Company) Bunker model nails it – it has SW200 regulated to almost COSC standards, titanium hardened case, amazing lume (20 layers of luminova) and costs half of 1000 EUR. Also it has inner and outer AR for such price.

Reply
1. MB
  MarkBu says:
  
  Mar 14, 2024 at 19:44
  
  Just been having a look at their range. There’s some good stuff on there.
  
  Reply
MG
maciej-g says:

Mar 14, 2024 at 18:36

My first choice is quite obvious to me: Hamilton Murph 38.

What else…

Tissot Gentleman P80.
Farer Lethbridge.

Reply
1. MB
  MarkBu says:
  
  Mar 14, 2024 at 19:46
  
  A good, solid trio (I would say that given I own the first one).
  
  Reply
  1. MG
    maciej-g says:
    
    Mar 14, 2024 at 20:44
    
    And the Zegarek Citizen Eco-Drive Radio Controlled Titanium CB0260-81E.
    
    Reply
Max W says:

Mar 14, 2024 at 19:37

I picked up the Lorier Hyperion when they released another batch last month. I absolutely love it. Same Miyota 9075 as the Hydra, and I really love the deep rich red and navy on the bezel with the gold accent accents and hands. Same price tag as the Hydra and I could not be happier. Even if you don’t like the Hesalite, getting a flyer GMT at the price point is worth the trade off. (And I am a fan of the Hesalite, that and the colors really lean into the vintage inspired design.)

Reply
MG
maciej-g says:

Mar 15, 2024 at 08:13

My three favourites under 1K

– Omega Constellation 168.0056
– Omega Constellation 168.045
– Omega Constellation 167.021

No water resistance. No sapphire crystal. No micro adjustments. No silicon. No titanium. No luminance.

Reply
1. Peter says:
  
  Mar 17, 2024 at 09:52
  
  Great choice!
  
  I would add all Constellations F300Hz.
  
  Reply
RW
Richard says:

Mar 15, 2024 at 14:23

These are great picks, and an excellent article. For another excellent brand with value under $1k, I’d recommend EC Anderson and anything by Nodus. In my case, I own the EC Anderson Poseidon, a do it all dive watch with a GMT bezel, power reserve dial and compass function. The Nodus Sector Deep is a 500m WR tank of a dive watch, with some excellent brushing.

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