Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K — Jorg’s Picks From Zenith, Cartier, And Grand Seiko
After Thomas kicked our new series of Fratello Favorites last Friday, I am the second in line to pick my favorites under €10K. As Thomas said, it’s a budget that leaves you spoiled for choice. It’s also the maximum budget that I would seriously consider when buying a watch. While there are plenty of new available models, of which I have picked three, I also highlighted some pre-owned picks. In today’s market of rising new prices and lowering pre-owned prices, it would be almost sinful not to look at some remarkable picks from the past. So, let’s jump straight in.
Before we do, though, one article was more than enough to spoil some of the fun. Thomas was smart enough to pick a watch that most of us would choose. The Rolex Submariner is simply the go-to pick for a lot of watch fans, including yours truly. It’s why I decided to leave it out of the list. On top of that, one of my pre-owned picks is one of my all-time favorites, which is even better, in my opinion. So, with the current Sub out of the picture, let’s get started.
The best watches under €10K — Pick #1: Zenith Chronomaster Revival El Primero A384
Thomas almost spoiled my entire list of three picks, but fortunately, he didn’t add my first pick to his list. He picked the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Shadow, which is great, but I decided to go a different route. On multiple occasions on Fratello, I have said that I am considering starting a small Zenith El Primero A384 collection. Zenith has done an amazing job reviving the classic silhouette from 1969 and giving us amazing variations based on the original.
But a good collection starts with the original. While the original from 1969 is out of reach for this theoretical exercise, the modern reissue is the perfect start. The Chronomaster Revival El Primero A384 was introduced in 2019 and is the perfect modern-day follow-up to the late ’60 classic.
What I adore about the A384—and A385, for that matter—is the blocky case. Not only is the tonneau-shaped case the perfect canvas for a wild variety of amazing dials, but the intricate details make it a joy to see on your wrist. Examples are the smart finishing and how the iconic Gay Frères ladder bracelet is integrated into the case. Regarding the former, the face features radially brushed surfaces that are contrasted by the angular case shape.
As a result, the finish magnifies the impact of the dial’s design. The panda dial is full of intricate details that I love: the way the tachymeter scale is executed and set against the minute/seconds track on the inner section or the injection of color provided by the central chronograph hand. Lastly, I love how the date is integrated at 4:30. It truly is a stunning dial.
The iconic Gay Frères ladder bracelet
As a reminder, the case measures 37mm in diameter, 12.6mm in height, and 47mm lug-to-lug. It’s a modest-sized watch that fits many wrist sizes. You can get the A384 on a leather strap or the ladder bracelet. The choice is a no-brainer, as the bracelet is another element that adds a ton of character. On top of that, it is really comfortable which makes wearing the A384 a treat. Inside the case, you will find the El Primero Calibre 400.
The automatic chronograph movement operates at 36,000vph and has a power reserve of 50 hours. It is a direct descendant of the original El Primero movement from 1969 and also features a column wheel and a horizontal clutch. It’s the perfect movement for this amazing piece. Seeing it and writing about it immediately made me excited about the A384 and its variations. That’s when you know this is the perfect first pick for this list at €9,600.
The best watches under €10K — Pick #2: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 GMT SBGE285 “Mist Flake”
My next pick is the glorious Grand Seiko Evolution 9 GMT SBGE285 “Mist Flake.” When we received the overview of Grand Seiko’s new introductions for Watches and Wonders 2022, I immediately fell in love with the “Mist Flake.” This watch is part of the brand’s Evolution 9 collection, which explores modern case shapes and combines them with new movements.
What I love about the SBGE285 is its modern silhouette. The 41mm × 13.9mm titanium case is a masterclass in contemporary case design. It finds the perfect balance between feeling modern and comfortable at the same time. I especially love how the lugs effortlessly transition into the crown guards on the right side of the case. It’s one of the many great details of this stand-out case design.
The case is combined with a titanium bezel with the 24-hour GMT scale. I am a sucker for the looks of a stainless steel bezel. Hence, my love for the Rolex Explorer II, Tudor Black Bay Pro, and the Lorca Model No.1 GMT. While the “Mist Flake” is a titanium watch, the looks certainly align with those examples and why it immediately hits home with me. Another stand-out detail is that the numerals on the bezel aren’t too shouty.
They add to the rather sophisticated presence of the watch, especially compared to its competitors. The biggest eye-catcher is, without a doubt, the spectacular dial. The grayish-white dial has a dreamy presence that is simply beautiful. It has great depth, and the level of detail is stunning. It is the perfect backdrop for those sharp hands and indices. I especially love the handset. All four hands are distinctly different, meaning you don’t need a color to indicate the GMT hand. It would impact the monochromatic presence that makes this such an amazing timepiece.
A beautiful Spring Drive movement
Inside the case, you will find the meticulously finished Spring Drive caliber 9R66. This modern movement, with its 72-hour power reserve and impressive accuracy of ±1 seconds per day or ±15 seconds per month, would be another reason for me to buy this watch. A Grand Seiko with a Spring Drive movement has been on my list for some time and this would be the one for me.
A big reason for that is that the power reserve indicator is integrated nicely. While I could do without it on the dial side, it works out nicely in this specific design. I must confess that I sometimes forget about the “Mist Flake” when it comes to lists like this. But every time I see the watch, I am reminded why I shouldn’t. It is a brilliant modern GMT, making for a great second pick at €8,900.
The best watches under €10K — Pick #3: Cartier Santos Medium brown dial
My last pick is the beautiful brown-dialed Cartier Santos Medium. I love how Cartier has shown the world its brilliance in the last couple of years. With many new introductions, Cartier shows the great variety in its collection and the incredible pieces found in its archives. Granted, most of my favorite releases from the last couple of years were part of the exclusive Privé Collection.
Some examples are last year’s platinum Tank Normale, the Cloche de Cartier from 2021 ago and the Tortue Monopoussoir that was released this year. But this year’s brown-dialed Santos is an addition to the regular collection I absolutely adore.
Cartier released a Medium and a Large model. I much prefer the Medium version, as it forgoes the date aperture at 6 o’clock. This results in a very clean layout that gives the beautiful gradient brown dial room to shine. On top of that, the Medium model on the bracelet has plenty of wrist presence to fit my wrist nicely. It has a 35.1 × 41.9mm stainless steel case that is 8.83mm thick and water resistant to 10 ATM.
Inside the case is the self-winding caliber 1847 MC with 42 hours of power reserve. I’ve often wondered what my favorite Cartier would be and would love to add it to my collection. The new Santos is the perfect answer to that question, and it can be yours for €7,700.
The best watches under €10K when going preowned
As I said in my intro, looking at pre-owned watches in today’s watch landscape is smart, especially considering what you can get for the €10K budget. My first pick is my favorite out of all of these watches. I’ve explained multiple times on Fratello why the Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 16600 is the one Rolex for me. While I love many of the brand’s watches, I would be perfectly happy wearing this specific Sea-Dweller for the rest of my life.
It was the first Rolex I put on my wrist a little over two decades ago, and it hasn’t left my thoughts ever since. Nowadays, you can buy a Sea-Dweller ref. 16600 between €8K and €9K, which makes it my pick for this list.
Another watch I would hunt down is a Moonwatch from my birth year. In my case, that would be a Speedmaster Professional ref. 145.022-76, as I was born in 1977. I have a long list of Speedmasters that I love and would like to add to my collection. But the ref. 145.022-76 would be extra special to me. It was the first reference powered by the Caliber 861 and was in production from 1968 until 1988.
I could go over all the details, but there are plenty of articles on this specific reference, including one about a special one that Robert-Jan owns. It is simply a classic that would be very special to me. Price-wise, they go for anywhere between €5K and €10K (depending on condition).
Final thoughts on the best watches under €10K
After selecting these five watches, I feel that these are pieces I would genuinely love to wear every day. But it also leaves me with many options that I considered but didn’t pick. The reason is that it would become a super long list, defeating the purpose. But it shows that the budget offers many great new and pre-owned options. It’s also why I want to ask you the same question. What would be your picks under €10k? Let us know in the comments section, and stay tuned for more articles in this new series.
