Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K— RJ’s Picks From Breitling, Omega, And Grand Seiko

During last year’s Watches and Wonders, I repeatedly stated that €10K is the new €5K. This is something that applies to what it feels like you get watch-wise at the given price point. I raised the bar even further to €15K in this year’s Geneva show. For those of us who have been around, it’s a struggle to keep a point of reference, but once you wrap your head around it, you begin to understand the new way things are in the watch industry. And though, to me, €10k feels more like €5k these days, I’ll stick to the €10K price limit that Nacho has requested me to go with today when making my picks.

As my colleagues mentioned, a €10K budget gives you access to many candidates, especially when you’re not afraid to buy pre-owned. However, as not everyone is comfortable buying a pre-owned watch, I will pick three new watches within this budget and include two additional pre-owned options.

Rolex Wildcard

In a recent article covering my favorite summer watches, I included a Rolex Explorer. And I still stand by that for any (new) purchase under €10,000. So that watch deserves to be on this list, as I think it’s one of the most classic-looking watches one can buy. So, besides the three listed new watches, the Explorer also belongs on the list. Whether it’s the 36mm or 40mm version depends on your personal preference, of course.

Breitling Classic Avi Chronograph 42 P-51 Mustang

One of the watches I have examined more than once while visiting the local Breitling boutique is this Classic Avi Chronograph 42 P-51 Mustang. I know very little about aircraft, and the P-51 Mustang is no exception, so my attraction to this watch comes from the design and color scheme. The watch has very strong Type XX vibes, which is a watch design I like very much. The thin steel bezel, large Arabic numerals, and three subdials in the classic 3, 6, and 9 o’clock layout are elements we’ve seen on many Type XX variations, but Breitling did it exceptionally well. From a design perspective, I prefer it over the current Breguet Type XX model.

Inside is Breitling’s Caliber 23, which is based on the trusty Valjoux 7753 chronograph movement. This means it’s not an in-house B1 movement, but I can live with that for the retail price of €5,800. The watch has a brown calf leather strap and a Breitling-signed folding buckle. For €300 more, it is also available on the steel Breitling Pilot’s bracelet, but I prefer this watch to be on leather.

Omega Speedmaster Professional White Dial

This year, we saw the introduction of the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with a white dial into the regular collection. We have seen some white dial Speedmasters in the Moonwatch collection before but as limited editions and never as part of the standard lineup. The white lacquer dial is based on the sapphire version of the Speedmaster Professional, so it comes with the brushed and polished bracelet, as well as a sapphire case back.

I have worn the new white dial Speedmaster Professional for a few weeks, and it was a real conversation starter — even with people who are not that deep into watches. It gives the classic Speedmaster a very fresh look without losing the typical style elements from the Moonwatch. We have covered the current Speedmaster Moonwatch more than once, and you can find our hands-on review of the white dial Speedmaster here.

Inside this white Speedy you’ll find Omega’s excellent hand-winding 3861 chronograph movement. The retail price of the Omega Speedmaster Professional with white dial is €9,100.

Grand Seiko 62GS Sakura-Wakaba SBGH343

Since the Grand Seiko Snowflake, the company has created a remarkable number of brilliant dials. One that stands out for me is this Sakura-Wakaba model, with reference SBGH343. Sized at a very modest 38mm in diameter and equipped with the high-beat 9S85 movement, it is a solid choice in this price bracket and will leave you some change at €7,900.

Recently, I have slowly been returning to my standpoint on titanium watches. I am warming up to them, and this SBGH343 would be a great contender for one I’d like to own. It has the famous Grand Seiko Zaratsu (mirror blade polishing) finish on some of the surfaces, made possible thanks to the use of Grade 5 titanium.

The Grand Seiko Sakura-Wasaba can be used as an everyday watch, offers sufficient water resistance, and its caliber 9S86 accuracy is comparable (even slightly better) to chronometer standards. The dial, inspired by “cherry blossoms and young leaves,” looks fantastic and offers something different than the typical black, white, silver, and blue colors we see often.

Ok, fine! You won’t find this one under €10k

Pre-owned up to €10K

Buying a watch is very personal, so what works for me doesn’t have to work for you. And especially when you are taking your €10K budget to the pre-owned market, the options are countless (though you’ll have to forget about the model you see above). You can go crazy on niche little gold-cased pieces, but I’d stick to some heavy-hitters from big brands that can still be found at attractive prices.

Breguet Classique 5157

Breguet

One of the watches that keeps sitting in my head is the Breguet Classique 5157. As the retail price increased to €24,100, the pre-owned prices also slightly increased. In the past, there were many to be found under €10K, and now the supply has already become thinner. Still, you can find them for under €10K, and I think it is one of the best watches you can buy for this sum.

A beautifully finished movement with the de-centralized rotor, an engine-turned dial (handmade), and an incredibly well-sized, slim dress watch at 38mm × 5.4mm.

Rolex GMT-Master II 16713. Image via Langedyk Vintage Watches.

Rolex

One of the watches I regret selling the most is my GMT-Master II 16710. I don’t know what got into me (oh yeah, it was a trade for acquiring a Royal Oak Chronograph 26300), but I sometimes really miss this watch. For €10K, you won’t buy the 16710, but you can find the gold and steel 16713 within this budget. This 40mm sports Rolex on a jubilee bracelet is a great daily companion, easy to service (caliber 3185), and useful when traveling to destinations in a different timezone. It’s definitely one of the best watches under €10k available pre-owned today.

What did you think of my picks? Leave your thoughts in the comments below.