Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K — Thor’s Picks From Cartier, Grand Seiko, And Zenith

Well, that is what I wrote when I started this story, genuinely believing that I would have a problem choosing. But as many times before, RJ, Mike, and others have finished their Best Watches Under €10K stories and stolen my chosen thunder.

The €5K–10K segment is not easy for me as my taste annoyingly tends to hover far above my budget or in the €1,000–3,000 world of strict reality. But as I’ve decided to try to find focus and variety within my collection, a few gaps would easily be filled on this still-generous budget.

Cartier Santos-Dumont WSSA0046

I’ll first confess to being a closet Cartier fan. I somehow feel that the brand gets an extraordinary amount of hype and doesn’t need any help. But that doesn’t stop me from harboring a deep desire, and the Santos line has my heart. If I had to pick an easy favorite today, it would be the gorgeous brown-dial version in Jorg’s story a few weeks ago. But I’m not a thief, so I’m going full black with this frankly delicious Santos-Dumont. My first thought was to find a pilot’s watch since I don’t have one at the moment, and if you know your history, you’ll recognize the Santos as the de facto first pilot’s wristwatch. That doesn’t make it a tough tool, but my pilot daydream involves a Learjet, so it’s up for the job.

The black-lacquered version of the Santos-Dumont fitted with caliber 430 MC is the large model. And though I might have the softest spot for the medium size, this full-black-lacquer look is too tempting. My craving for colors is still strong, but the strict elegance and unusual look of the black-filled bezel trump it. The pointy blue cabochon in the crown becomes even more noticeable in this monochrome scene, and the serenity of a no-seconds-hand dial is pure wrist zen. At €6,600, it’s on the low end for a hypothetical €10K budget, and with its puny 3-bar water resistance, this Santos-Dumont is no sports watch. But the purity and dark allure got to me.

Zenith Defy Revival A3648

After the serene black of Cartier, what’s better to dial up the color to the max than an orange-flashing Zenith? The Defy Revival A3648 made me smile for the longest time after I first saw it. It is one of the best vintage-inspired star-logoed watches to come out of the Zenith factory in ages, and I feel a deep desire. Sure, it might clash with a demure suit for a more somber occasion, but perhaps it wouldn’t. After all, contrast is the spice of life, and this repro of an original 1969 Zenith dive watch ticks so many boxes for me. If this were a 42mm sports watch with the same intense color, it would be a clear case of overkill, but it works perfectly within its compact, angular, and vintage-pure 37mm case.

Zenith could have chosen a slightly less emergency-flare tint, but the polarizing aspect makes it all the better for me. The clever use of slim polished sections between the three brushed rows of steel links underlines that the ’60s were not about an all-matte-tool vibe. Instead, the smaller links match the gloriously polished sides of the faceted case and bezel edge, making the Defy Revival A3648 a seriously popping piece of wrist jewelry. For €8,000, you get an Elite 670 automatic movement that has a decent 50 hours of power reserve, and the flamboyance is offset by a calm black dial center. But with its orange signal beckoning you from the watch box, you’ll need a strong will to leave it unworn.

Grand Seiko SBGW303

I had an example of Grand Seiko’s amazing 44GS design, and its amazingly sharp corners reminded me of Darth Vader’s TIE fighter head-on. But at 40mm, it was simply too big for me, and the Hi-Beat movement required a fat case back that made it float on my wrist. I swapped it for a deliciously blue SBGW283, and I love it; don’t get me wrong. Nevertheless, the allure of the angles remains. Then, out of the blue came this limited-edition SBGW303, and it is a strong contender on this sub-€10K list. It comes equipped with the same hand-wound 9S64 movement (hence, the SBGW reference code) and a wonderfully petite 36.5mm case.

Size-wise, I love my SGBW283’s 37.3mm case. The 303’s case is smaller yet angular, providing the same comfort. The bracelet is the recognizably soft-edged steel we know from a plethora of Grand Seiko models. Is it boring? Well, it’s not a groundbreaking design, but it is so immaculately finished that I’ll easily place it on a bracelet-top-three podium. The dial is a deep mossy green with a gold GS logo at 12, and the case offers the indisputable angular perfection of the 44GS language. Sure, ideally, the lugs could still curve down a bit more, but with small 36.5mm cases, it doesn’t matter, and the proportions remain perfect. The SBGW303 is a rather good buy at €6,300, even as I notice an ever-growing increase in Grand Seiko’s prices.

Final words on the best watches under €10K

So, that’s it for my €10,000 budget, Fratelli. I could have added a few pre-owned bargains from my article on solid gold sports watches, but this is a curated list. That doesn’t mean there aren’t plenty of other good options out there, though, inaccessible Rolex included. In the comments below, let me know your thoughts on a dreamy €10K shopping spree.