Fratello Favorites: Thor’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases

A perhaps lukewarm show but with some dazzling faves from usual and unusual suspects alike

April 20, 2024

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I have mixed feelings this year. I had to watch from afar as I was writing remotely and not part of the lovely circus that is Watches and Wonders. But despite a few of our editors noting a rather lukewarm personal reception, I was surprised by some gems at the show and have some grail-worthy favorite Watches and Wonders 2024 releases.

While Rolex played it cool in the face of receding market values and Tudor offered a few nice but tweaked pieces, surprises were indeed on offer. And while some of my choices will undoubtedly be reflected in other editors’ stories (looking at you, Thomas), they’re good enough to constitute a perfect three-watch collection. Well, as long as I ignore budgets, that is.

Thor’s favorite Watches and Wonders 2024 releases — Pick #1: The quietly spoken Hublot Big Bang Integrated 38mm

How ironic that my story’s most everyday-cool watch should be from Hublot. The brand blasted press releases with clear sky-blue sapphire cases and multi-complex series-coupled barrels, but that’s no surprise. There was even an ultra-cool orange ceramic Big Bang, but the everyday charm of Grade 5 titanium got to me. At €13,600, the Big Bang Integrated 38mm is way pricier than, say, the titanium Tudor Pelagos FXD. Instead, it fights the €14K Yacht-Master 42. And that pretty much sums it up. It’s not a tool watch, and it does not have the cachet of the “YM.” But I love its looks, and the “BBI” is a great interpretation of the integrated-bracelet chic everyone wants a piece of. It is a tougher, more defined version of the genre, and the 38mm size is much more comfortable than 42. So you can keep your Yacht-Master prestige.

And sure, I love the lightweight comfort of titanium, don’t get me wrong, but the rose gold version is even sweeter. King Gold, Hublot’s proprietary alloy, is delightfully lustrous and warm, especially with a satin finish. However, at a mad €49,100, this is a seriously overpriced 38mm watch. That doesn’t detract from its balanced design, Big Pilot-like numeral legibility, and desirability. The titanium version, however, is a very interesting lateral move by Hublot, and I’m all for it. More, please.

Pick #2: Vacheron Constantin’s luscious green Overseas Chronograph

Big, butch gold chronographs exist in a separate sphere of the watch world, and I have a conflicting relationship with some brands. I have never been a big fan of the Daytona for its ubiquitous bling-symbol reasons, but after reviewing a few ADG-rebuilt versions, I’m turning. However, I am still a bigger fan of the alternatives and love an olive-green dial. It’s a difficult color to get right. If it comes too close to the official Rolex color, it is too flashy. I admit I also have a soft spot for Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas range. So seeing the press image of four new references in green caused a tingling sensation in my watch senses. The tone is just right, and rose gold packs a serious punch.

And why not change it up with a quick swap to Vacheron’s elaborate rubber strap? Sure, a new dial color is not revolutionary. Still, I have long seen the Overseas Chronograph as a superb alternative to the Big D. This solidifies it, and I’d take the included hobnail-pattern rubber strap over a smooth Oysterflex any day. Sure, this Overseas is large at 42.5mm wide and 12.67mm thick, but I rate the bracelet highly in the comfort stakes. Also, given that I could somehow magically acquire the €87,500 budget sum, the deep brushing of the Overseas with only a few choice touches of polish makes for a quieter gold ensemble than many brands offer. It will always be a big statement, but the 18K pink gold with a muted deep green dial is sublime.

Thor’s favorites Watches and Wonders 2024 releases — Pick #3: Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon

What’s this? Lume game on a Laurent Ferrier grail? Yes, and it also marks the brand’s first hand-finished foray into lunar complications with an adaptation of the École Annual Calendar’s movement but in the smooth 40mm Classic range. At CHF 70,000 in steel, the Classic Moon is an investment in small-scale watchmaking and a studied alternative to a Vacheron, Patek, or Lange. All of these watches keep going up in price, but does it matter when you have a €50K–100K budget? Anyway, this is not about everyday wearability, though this more casual gray-blue version would fit the bill. Mind you, it is as casual as any hand-finished piece of Haute Horlogerie can be perceived.

And I’ve perceived this as a breath of fresh air, underlining that independents like Ferrier mean more than big-brand prestige. With a cheeky dab of lume on the moonphase display, a traditional complication detail, the brand has crossed a line. It shows an audacity that belies the sober details of traditionalism, and just like Lange’s Lumen, it opens up new avenues. The Classic Moon appeals to the same people who loved the Sport Auto 40, but it stays true to its classical roots. The luminous moons are fresh details that only appear at night, while the watch is a picture of zen-like calm and restraint. With its twin personalities, the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon duo follows the brand’s strong trajectory and sets the bar high for a strong presence at Geneva Watch Days 2024.

Honorable mentions

Perhaps I was too sensible in my choices, even if the costly solid gold Overseas Chronograph is anything but. Gold sure does add an extra dose of luster to a good watch design, and for me, it’s never about a status symbol or investment potential. That might explain my desire for the rose gold version of the reissued TAG Heuer Skipper. It’s already a gorgeous watch, don’t get me wrong, but the warm rose gold brings a magic touch to the deep blue dial with its fresh details.

And “wow!” for Zenith with the octagonal flare of the Defy Revival A3648, signaling (brightly!) the still-strong vintage trend. This must be the brightest orange-popping dial I have ever seen, closer to fluorescent than mandarin sweet. The angle-tastic case has a strong late-’60s vibe but also reminds me somewhat of the new Grand Seiko SBGC275. And what about those hands? They are pure orange with generous lume and a perfect rectangular plot on the seconds hand. Bravo, Zenith; this is an easy choice for any “favorite Watches and Wonders releases” list.

So, if the question were whether I found this year’s Watches and Wonders show lacking, I’d say “no.” The gems were there but not necessarily apparent at the first booth visit. What about you, Fratelli? Do you have any faves or derivatives of my selection above? Let me know in the comments.

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Fratello Favorites: Thor’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases

I think the new white gold/black dial version of Chopard’s LUC Quattro Spirit 25 also deserves a mention. This timepiece, originally released in a rose gold/white dial version in 2021, is a true underrated stunner: jump hour, enamel dial, 8 days of power reserve & Geneva hallmark.

Steve S says:

Apr 20, 2024 at 13:59

Agreed and the steel monochrome qualite fleurier!

1. lefataliste says:
  
  Apr 21, 2024 at 07:37
  
  Agreed. But I would personally like this model even more if the caliber had a swan neck regulator and a yellow gold guilloché rotor.

The watches pictured are pretty cool options, if way outside of my budget. The Hublot is a strange one; it’s subtle and practical by their standards and likeable because of that, but making it so makes it seem a little more ordinary and therefore at least twice or even three times the price it probably should be.

Thor, I think you have some wonderful picks here; however, can we discuss the unmatched date window at 4:30pm on the Overseas? Perhaps I’m being too harsh, but that’s just appalling. Do better Vacheron. In fact, just do away with the date window entirely.

The LF is pure class and a piece I’m glad to see is getting some attention from the press. Alternatively, the 38mm Hublot BBI is the best-looking watch they have released in years. It’s a shame the press isn’t talking about this.

show stealer was blue dial steel JLC Duometre

I am not the first to say it, finally there’s a Hublot I’d wear, but the price tag is holding me back just a little.
My second thought about the Big Bang is they’ve created the perfect watch for many to copy, borrow from, and create homages.

The rest of the watches all merit two thumbs up. The Skipper and Defy certainly pop. Bonus points to the Overseas Chronograph. Solid gold never looked better.

I agree with you, there seems to have been plenty of interesting watches to be seen & enjoyed, at least by those of us who weren’t actually there

Not entirely sure why (some) people who were there came away disappointed – what where they expecting?

At what point does the cost of these beautiful art pieces (watches) separate from any relation to the cost of production. I suspect the production houses are limited in their ability to produce sufficient numbers so it’s simpler to keep raising the retail price until no interest is shown by the market. There must be a vast pool of ultra rich out there waiting to spend $60,000 US dollars. This puts the vast majority of even the well off from entering the market. Rolex has this all calculated. I am happy to own my father’s 1955 Rolex explorer. My father was a mechanic but even a Rolex was within his reach in 1955. This would not be the case today.

That Laurent Ferrier is one stunning watch. Way – WAY – outside of my price range as well though.

I like your comments about the Zenith. As I had taken and shown my Zenith Grand Prix Paris 1900 pocket watch which was as old or older than the one on display, I was able to spend some time with the Director of Design for Zenith. He showed me several of the watches from the Defy collection. I was also able to discuss replacement parts for my pocket watch if and when I need them. My favorite at Zenith was the Defy Extreme Diver, 42mm case, in grade 5 titanium with helium escape and a ceramic unidirectional bezel.