Fratello On Air: Our Favorite ’90s And Early ’00s Watches

Heading back to the glory days of 30 years ago

August 20, 2024

comments 18

This week, Fratello On Air returns with our favorite watches from the ’90s and early ’00s. It’s hard to believe that this period is roughly 30 years old! This was a key era for watches and saw the birth of models that still exist or are highly revered today. Join us as we take a trip down memory lane. For our listeners, the watch content begins after approximately 14 minutes.

The ’90s and early ’00s gave us some truly memorable watches. We’re thankful that our listener Richard asked us to discuss some of our favorite pieces from the era. Today, we’ll mention dress watches, divers, aviators, and chronographs. Some may think of this as a malaise period, but we’ll do our best to change your mind!

Handgelenkskontrolle

We kick off the episode with some discussions about TV shows with watches. Bosch and Lost both feature Rolex watches, and Balazs talks about them in more detail. Regarding the Handgelenkskontrolle, Balazs starts us off with his first Swiss watch, the Tissot PRC200 Chronograph. Mike is wearing an 18K gold Movado Curviplan with a new strap.

Patek Philippe 3970EP-21 favorite watches from the '90s and early '00s

Image: Wind Vintage

Our favorite watches from the late ’90s and early ’00s

The main topic begins with an overview of four iconic watches that debuted during the ’90s. These pieces are still in production today with similar designs. However, we each mention three more watches we love from this timeframe. Scratch that; Balazs mentions four! We talk about the following pieces:

Omega Speedmaster Professional 3192.30, a limited-edition Apollo XI commemorative model made of white gold
Patek Philippe 5014G, a Gondolo with an Art Deco dial
Patek Philippe 3970EP-21, an amazing perpetual calendar
IWC Mark XII, a JLC-powered 36mm pilot’s watch with a glorious bracelet
Cartier Tank Basculante 2390, the large manual-wind classic with a folding case
Panerai PAM00127, the “Fiddy” from 2002 that went viral
Seiko 7T27, an RAF-issued chronograph

We hope you enjoy today’s episode, and thanks again to Richard for the topic suggestion! If you have suggestions for future shows, please let us know.

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Fratello On Air: Our Favorite ’90s And Early ’00s Watches

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MG
maciej-g says:

Aug 20, 2024 at 10:20

Actually, some of my very favourite watches (not just vintage ones) are from that perdiod, particularly chronographs:

– Omega Speedmaster 3594.50;
– IWC Flieger 3706;
– Breguet 3800 and 3810.

I could also add The Citizen CTQ57-0952 (nearly identical to the current ones… although it is a shame it doesn’t feature the eagle).

I guess I could also add the Panerai Radiomir PAM00210.

Reply
TW
Berlin_Tony says:

Aug 20, 2024 at 12:52

Something for everyone, lots to choose from & a huge range on offer, everything from 60s re-issues like Heuer’s Carrera to Bond Seamasters

Get stuck in

Reply
1. DM
  TacoPants says:
  
  Aug 21, 2024 at 17:20
  
  Not to mention mainly relying on movements that can widely serviced by your local guy.
  
  The more time that passes, the more I realize that watches from this era were more of a “premium” product instead of a pure luxury product as today
  
  Reply
JayKK says:

Aug 20, 2024 at 15:58

One of my favourite watches is Breitling Crosswind A13355 with all brushed finish. You can’t find that kind of charm in modern watches. And the bracelet is one of the coolest I’ve seen. The size is also perfect for me and a very short lug-to-to length makes it very comfortable.

Reply
1. MG
  maciej-g says:
  
  Aug 20, 2024 at 16:17
  
  That’s interesting and cool. Perhaps a bit… overdone in terms of design for my taste (the bezel on particular) but it does have its own charm, yes. And–it is another one to add to my favourite chrono-trio from yhe 90s/00s.
  
  Reply
  1. JayKK says:
    
    Aug 20, 2024 at 18:00
    
    Overdone? There’s only diver’s bezel, minute scale, tachymetre and 1/100 minute scale 🤣
    
    To be a bit more serious, there’s something personal for me in this watch also. I saw one of these in very good condition and just serviced about 6 months ago and I bought it. It spoke to me loudly.
    
    When we were travelling with my parents when I was a kid, we always stopped with my dad to window-shop watches in airports and foreign cities. Time after time those big and chunky Breitlings caught my eye the most, and I thought one day I would buy one. I don’t remember any particular models, but this Crosswind represents that watch to me.
    
    Reply
    1. MG
      maciej-g says:
      
      Aug 21, 2024 at 10:22
      
      Well, just a tiny bit overdone;-)
      
      I totally det the chunky muscular Breitling designs–even if they are not exactly “me”. But I see they vastly improved these muscles in the period between the 90s/00 and today. Well, I guess you have to work your muscles overtime…
      
      Reply
2. balazs says:
  
  Aug 20, 2024 at 16:17
  
  Great pic too! We should do a part II and def add (more) Breilting to the mix.
  
  Reply
Richard says:

Aug 20, 2024 at 17:08

Hello Guys –

Thanks for taking my question. You had some fantastic picks, and I bet if you were given the time, you could come up with 5-10 more excellent watches.

Soccer update – Mike, if you want to see US Soccer while you visit and MLS isn’t available, check out the USL (United Soccer League). It’s just under MLS in the hierarchy, has 24 teams and Miami has a team. The standard of play is not quite as good as MLS, but the stadiums are more intimate and tickets are pretty cheap. I love the Detroit City FC team.

Sneaker update – I rewatched Beverly Hills Cop recently, the original, and man did Eddie Murphy have some good shoe game. Check out the Adidas Country OG in white with green stripes. Might have to get a pair.

Main topic – I’m a big fan of the IWC Mark XII highlighted in the show, It’s everything a tool watch should be. I’d also give a vote to the following: (a) Omega Seamaster Dive 300 GMT (Ref. 2535.80.00) from 2005; (b) IWC Pilot Chronograph (IW3706) from the late 90s/early 2000s; and (c) Breitling Ani/Digi Aerospace from the late 90s and early 2000s.

Thanks for another excellent show

Reply
1. SB
  S.M.B says:
  
  Aug 21, 2024 at 00:54
  
  MLS at least in Charlotte doesn’t cost too much for the tickets. I am taking my son to the CLT v. NE next month and we are only a few rows off the pitch. The tickets cost us less than $100. This is a good deal to sit so close.
  
  Reply
  1. Richard says:
    
    Aug 21, 2024 at 16:11
    
    Excellent price for those seats. Detroit doesn’t have an MLS team, so their USL team is it. Their tickets are $25 for general admission. Their stadium is charmingly ramshackle, and is situated next to an active train carriage-way.
    
    I’m in NYC most of the time, and have seen Red Bull play. Those games are really fun.
    
    Reply
TheK33 says:

Aug 23, 2024 at 01:54

I’m thinking that Mike is a secret “bubbly” lover😉

Reply
Tristan says:

Aug 23, 2024 at 17:29

The 1970s gave us things like orange, brown and purple wallpaper (arghh my eyes!, my eyes!) and just as criminally – the 1990s gave us watches like the Tag Heuer 1500 that have not aged well. I know, I bought one. What was I thinking?

Reply
Roy-65 says:

Aug 24, 2024 at 20:10

To complete Mike’s classification of watches. A milf watch is a vintage watch without descendants. For example you mentioned the IWC Mark line.
A cougar watch is a watch without descendants. A perfect example is the Omega “Andrew Grima” line from the 70s. When it died the lineage was broken.
I favour cougar watches.

Reply
1. Richard says:
  
  Aug 25, 2024 at 04:22
  
  I don’t know what’s going on here, but it’s hilarious.
  
  Reply
  1. Roy-65 says:
    
    Aug 26, 2024 at 09:14
    
    Sorry Richard, I made a typo.
    The first category, the milf watch is a vintage watch WITH a lineage of descendents.
    The second category, the cougar watches is a vintage watch WITHOUT descendants .
    
    So, now it’s written correct.
    
    I love to clarify .
    
    Reply
SM
RedwoodAggie says:

Aug 28, 2024 at 16:23

This was a really interesting podcast and I think this era can be explored further. I’m not sure of the exact release date of these, but I know they were made in the ’90s – my pick is the Omega Speedmaster Day-Date Mark 40 3520.53.

Reply
sphdsdb says:

Aug 29, 2024 at 16:09

Thanks for the great podcast! I’m from Geneva and strongly recommended the Bains des Paquis if you want to swim. Clean water, great views of Geneva and surrounding mountains. Great food at very affordable price. A must!

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