Fratello On Air: Rolex, Geneva Watch Days, And More

A wide variety of topics for the airwaves this week

August 29, 2023

comments 16

Welcome back to another riveting episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we’re back as a duo, and we have much to discuss. The Rolex news looms large, and so do the upcoming Geneva Watch Days. Of course, we add several additional topics around new releases, shoes, and recent get-togethers for good measure.

Geneva Watch Days 2023 is here, but the show is secondary news for some. Rolex made massive waves with its recent purchase of Bucherer. Intriguing! New watches and new shoes are also on our minds. Meeting up with watch friends and fellow collectors has made a triumphant return in the big cities after being absent for several years. Listen in and enjoy the show!

Kettle Kite

This is the first week we bring in our “Kettle Kite” in honor of Cockney Rhyming Slang. It’s a bit awkward, so let’s see if it lasts. Regardless of our diction, Balazs bats first and shares his vintage Omega Speedmaster Mark II Racing on a black three-hole Tropic strap. Although he doesn’t wear it often, he’s convinced that this is a heavily undervalued watch. Mike shares his vintage Breitling Aerospace E56060. He has paired it with an inexpensive 20mm olive canvas strap. The combo has become a comfortable partner due to the slender and lightweight case.

As far as other topics, we discuss the recent Adidas Stan Smith “Homer Simpson” models. Both of us have landed a pair while Balazs has acted as a delivery depot for several friends. We also mention the most recent Time4APint gathering in London and meeting up with some mutual watch friends. Finally, the recently released Synchron Military Poseidon Black Edition is also in focus. It’s another great watch at a decent price and reminds us both of vintage Doxa Sub 300T Sharkhunter Aqualung pieces.

Rolex and Geneva Watch Days

Last week, Rolex threw a proper curveball when it announced that it had acquired Bucherer. We discussed the acquisition along with the possibilities and concerns. It’s interesting indeed, and only time will tell as far as the real effects of the news. We then move on to Geneva Watch Days 2023. Balazs and many members of the Fratello team will attend, so look forward to more! Specifically, we discuss the new Doxa Sub 300β and the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo novelties in black carbon. Black and gold seem to be the new darlings if we take these models as references. For our thoughts on them, you’ll have to take a listen!

As always, thanks for tuning in to the latest episode. If you have thoughts on future show topics, feel free to let us know!

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Fratello On Air: Rolex, Geneva Watch Days, And More

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LC
Chow says:

Aug 29, 2023 at 10:52

What happened to the article that was up yesterday “Top Ten Rolexes”? Why can’t I find it anymore?

Reply
1. Robert-Jan says:
  
  Aug 29, 2023 at 10:57
  
  It must have been a suggested (below another article) older article? Like this one: https://www.fratellowatches.com/top-10-rolex-watches/?
  
  Reply
  1. LC
    Chow says:
    
    Aug 29, 2023 at 11:18
    
    There it is. Thanks RJ ?
    
    Reply
brooklyn_boy says:

Aug 29, 2023 at 13:32

Getting defensive won’t make propaganda more palatable. Better to just admit your biases.

Your premise that Rolex CPO is overpriced compared to Chrono24 is laughable considering how Chrono24 carries heavily discounted models from your other main sponsor. I don’t hear you telling people it’s “dumb” to buy Omegas at list when you can get unworn examples for much cheaper on online platforms (your official position is ADs don’t discount Omegas right? ?).

And where your bias shows most is your refusal to point out the benefits of CPO, being able try watches in person, authenticity, not having to service it later (and it’s not just the cost of service, but also the time it takes to get it back, hardly what you want after you’ve spent big on a watch). But most importantly for the “watch literate”, CPO is a way to become a customer of the store and get priority on new watches. Let me put this in terms you can surely get behind, you know how consumers have to buy a bunch of overpriced ETA products before being allocated a 321, well this is like that, except they’re not overpriced ETA products, they’re very desirable discontinued Rolex models serviced and authenticated by Rolex themselves.

But I can empathise, your biggest fears are well founded. Online platforms will struggle in the years to come as people break their pandemic habits, and so will brands that will get dropped by Bucherer to make room for Tudor and CPO. The quartz crisis was not that long ago, and a lot of companies went out of business remember? Guess who came out on top back then?

Reply
1. Mike Stockton says:
  
  Aug 29, 2023 at 14:35
  
  Firstly, you can look at both of our collections and see that we’re not biased. If anything, we’re probably biased MORE towards Rolex than anything else.
  
  I (Balazs is welcome to chime in on his own) simply see a CPO program as unnecessary in the watch world if you do your own research. It’s highly different than a CPO program for a car where the value is clearer IMO. I simply don’t have problems with my watches, so the promise of a warranty isn’t worth much to me. The value of trying on in person? I guess, but there has always been plenty of Rolex (for display only) to try on everywhere and then not be able to buy. Finally, your suggestion of buying a used watch at an overpriced level to try and garner favor with your local AD for future consideration on incoming new watches – I’d never do this no matter the brand. If I cannot buy a current production new watch in a reasonable amount of time, I’m simply not interested…
  
  Oh, and do I think going to a non-Omega boutique, but choosing to buy from an Omega AD that negotiates is wise? Absolutely! Buying at a discount on the secondary? Sure!
  
  Reply
  1. brooklyn_boy says:
    
    Aug 29, 2023 at 18:03
    
    Sure Mike, does this mean you’ll be telling listeners in future podcasts how “dumb” it is to buy Omegas at list from boutiques instead of buying them for much cheaper on Chrono24?
    
    Reply
    1. Robert-Jan says:
      
      Aug 29, 2023 at 18:26
      
      I think that’s the role you have developed here ?
      
      Reply
  2. RW
    Spartyfan6262 says:
    
    Aug 29, 2023 at 18:17
    
    Completely agree with Mike as to the lack of necessity for a Rolex CPO. There is no real significant upside to paying those prices when they’re so far above market price for the watches in question.
    
    Also, as to any supposed bias, who cares if there is one? These guys aren’t reporting on world events, catastrophes or political issues of the day where a lack of bias is important. They’re talking about a luxury hobby.
    
    Reply
2. Robert-Jan says:
  
  Aug 29, 2023 at 15:30
  
  “Your official position is ADs don’t discount Omegas right?”. We never said that, period. Boutiques are something different, but ADs are “free” to negotiate the prices of watches (whatever brand). I don’t mind you being a Swatch Group hater and Rolex fanboy, but quote us correctly.
  
  Reply
  1. brooklyn_boy says:
    
    Aug 29, 2023 at 17:10
    
    RJ please don’t forget that I’m also a fanboy of the 321 ?
    
    Reply
3. DM
  TacoPants says:
  
  Aug 29, 2023 at 16:11
  
  “But most importantly for the “watch literate”, CPO is a way to become a customer of the store and get priority on new watches.”
  
  Interesting as my read is that CPO is specifically for the less “watch literate” folks who simply want to have the watch now. And are not literate enough (or by choice, people are busy. Not everyone wants to invest the time on this) to know how to find reputable trusted resellers who offer pricing closer to market. CPO is a convenient one stop trusted shop. And you pay a premium for that. It’s not for me. But for the person who walks in and “just wants to buy a watch without worry,” it works. I would say the literate know how infrequent you’ll have a problem with a used Rolex. And if you do, send it in servicing on your own dime and you’ll still be under the CPO price.
  
  I’ll say nothing about the whole faux “relationship” building nonsense. Nothing could turn me off to any watch faster
  
  Reply
  1. brooklyn_boy says:
    
    Aug 30, 2023 at 00:42
    
    Amigo, you need to adopt a long-term view on collecting. Sure you have to spend a bit more on CPO than online dealers, but over time that means you get all the watches you want.
    I’ve only purchased three CPO watches from my AD, discontinued versions of the steel Sub/GMT/Daytona. And that was some years ago when it was just AD CPO and not Rolex CPO, but even back then they were a few thousands more than online platforms. I’ve not had any regrets, because they were watches I wanted to buy anyway, and it helped me get several desirable models at retail in the subsequent years. What good would it have done me if I had just bought them from Chrono24?
    
    I’ve since bought other models from vintage specialists at great prices, I didn’t buy another CPO because I didn’t have to. Now my AD knows he has to offer me what I ask or I’m never going back.
    That’s what a “relationship” is, a mutually beneficial arrangement where the AD knows he can count on you to buy watches every year, and you can count on him to help you achieve your collection goals.
    
    If this concept turns you off, then you don’t understand capitalism. Make your money work for you and get all the watches you want in the process.
    
    Reply
4. Billy G-String says:
  
  Sep 06, 2023 at 14:55
  
  Not sure how you’re coming up with these biases, but maybe don’t listen?
  
  Reply
MP
mikes_scrawny_wrist says:

Aug 29, 2023 at 16:06

All I want from Doxa is a Sub 300 in titanium.

Reply
EB
EDDI2142 says:

Aug 29, 2023 at 20:39

Interesting discussion around Bucherer & R0lex.
My hope is that the watches become more available, because Rolex can now scoop up more of the margin and because now you can technically build a purchase history directly with Rolex. But we’ll see if this is just wishful thinking.
I wonder how this will affect ADs. I can imagine that they could be negatively affected because of the margin situation (as mentioned before). Perhaps the effects of brands opening boutiques can be extrapolated here.
Concerning CPO, I asked myself if Rolex will artificially make the CPO watches more scarce and thus create higher desire (and again even higher margins), but maybe this is too much of a stretch.

Reply
Vincent says:

Aug 30, 2023 at 20:47

The CFB watches comment really hurt. 🙂 I happened to be wearing a 38MM triple date CFB while listening to the pod. I happen to think it is a really appealing watch. It is neither large nor garish.

Reply