Fratello On Air: The Three-Watch Collection And Three Alternatives

Watches for all budgets

June 20, 2023

comments 25

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we each discuss our idea of the perfect three-watch collection. Then, we offer up three more choices at a more approachable level. Enjoy the show, and let us know your thoughts.

Yes, the three-watch collection is a popular topic. This time, it’s our turn, and we each offer a trio without any cost constraints. Balazs and I then come back around and do it again with more thoughts on our wallets. We have some similar picks but also some very different choices.

Handgelenks Kontrolle

After some talk about watches we’ve seen during travel, it’s time to get into the Handgelenks Kontrolle. Balazs is wearing his Excelsior Park and enjoying the use of the EP40 movement. Mike is wearing his recent travel watch, the Doxa SUB 300 “Black Lung.” Both declare it a modern classic.

The perfect three-watch collection

Next, it’s time to focus on the three-watch collection. We have some real fun with this one. There’s some real variety here!

Balazs kicks things off with the Omega Speedmaster Professional 145.022 Transitional. It has all the trappings of a 321 but houses the more reliable caliber 861. For an affordable alternative, he brings in the Seiko 6139-7070. This watch has one of the first automatic chronograph movements and can be had for roughly €1,000. Mike leads off with the current Speedmaster Professional, a €7,400 gem with a perfect bracelet. For an alternative, it’s another manual-wind chronograph known as the Hamilton Intra-Matic H. This 40mm beauty is available for €2,195 in a couple of different dial colors.

For the second round of the three-watch collection, Balazs starts with the Rolex Submariner 14060. He follows this up with the Yema Superman Heritage Special Edition, an affordable vintage-inspired alternative. Mike brings his all-time favorite watch, the Rolex Explorer 14270. His option watch is surprising because it’s the Doxa SUB 300 Sharkhunter, a real beauty that can do just about everything.

For our final spin, Balazs leads off with the Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196G, a discontinued beauty of a dress watch. While it’s less expensive, the vintage Omega 2505 “Jumbo” is no less attractive. Mike finishes his with yet another Patek, the sublime Calatrava 570. Despite its simple looks, there’s nothing basic about this watch. Finally, the more approachable icon is the Grand Seiko 4420-9000. Like the Patek, this watch also boasts a case that is best kept away from the polishing wheel.

What is your ideal three-watch collection? Let us know in the comments, and as always, thank you for listening. Feel free to let us know if you have some ideas for an upcoming episode.

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Fratello On Air: The Three-Watch Collection And Three Alternatives

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MB
MarkB says:

Jun 20, 2023 at 10:52

I like the three watch collection game, although my choices tend to change on a weekly basis. I’m not gone on wearing watches that I have to worry about overly, so I’ll keep things on the right side of £10k. I’m not into chronographs enough to make one part of the three, and I’ve no need for a dress watch, so my three will be ultimate grab ‘n’ go daily driver, the perfect weekend diver and the complete multi-tool.

This weeks trio are ‘The Citizen’ Chronomaster AQ4091, Tudor Pelagos 39 and G-Shock MR-G Square. Noticeable that they’re all titanium, but I rckon that’s the best material for watches, especially when they come on bracelets.

Reply
1. Pelandrone says:
  
  Jun 20, 2023 at 13:54
  
  Ha, we are almost like brothers in arms. 🙂
  
  Right side of 10k – check.
  Not into chronographs – check.
  No need for dress watch – check.
  
  My trio is AQ4091-56M, Pelagos 42, GS SBGE275.
  
  You don’t consider AQ4091 a dress watch?
  
  Reply
  1. MB
    MarkB says:
    
    Jun 20, 2023 at 14:26
    
    Given it’s 12.5mm thick, has lume and 100m WR, not really. It’s more my idea of a GADA.
    
    Reply
    1. Pelandrone says:
      
      Jun 20, 2023 at 16:52
      
      Certainly a fitting candidate for a gada watch.
      
      Reply
      1. MG
        maciej-g says:
        
        Jun 21, 2023 at 08:22
        
        It’s one of those that fit the definition best. Iagree. Fantastic.
        
        Reply
SB
S.M.B says:

Jun 20, 2023 at 14:08

The 3 watch concept has been something I have chased for many years. For me there are two issues.

First, I have watches in my collection that I do not wish to part with due to the connections they have for me. As my sons get older I will likely hand some of these over to them.

Second, and this is the tough one. Within my collection I have some overlap so the 3 watches are more in a rotation. This will be solved by the above.

My current philosophy is less about quantity of watches and more about the cost. I have set myself up with a budget of $10k. I am at that budget and wish to add a watch then one or more watches would need to leave the collection to make room.

Reply
Brian-Waller says:

Jun 20, 2023 at 15:11

Definitely tough narrowing down the choices. First up is a vintage JLC World Timer in 18k gold with tuxedoish dial. Sure, it’s our grandfather’s GMT but it’s super cool and understated despite the gold case. It’ll also dress up quite well for date nights. A Rolex DJ 16014 (that’s my personal choice but there’s enough variety in the DJ line that this isn’t a hard and fast rule on the particular model). This one will almost never be the wrong answer. It pairs well with almost anything and fulfills the need for accuracy. I think this could be swapped out for a modern sized OP, like the celebration dial if we’re feeling whimsical this week. Such a small collection needs a grab and go option (quartz). To fill that spot the money is on a Citizen The Citizen. I like the Jounetsu but maybe the white washi to get a more wallet friendly snowflake. It’s a set it and forget it for life proposition. Gotta have some convenience in this modern crazy life. Another coffee and these answers are subject to change.

Reply
GD
1Gav1 says:

Jun 20, 2023 at 15:34

AP 15202BC
Rolex 6265
Patek 5370P

Reply
1. MG
  maciej-g says:
  
  Jun 21, 2023 at 08:23
  
  Ha! In my dream collections there is no AP, no PP, no R! How personal it is!:-)
  
  Reply
  1. GD
    1Gav1 says:
    
    Jun 21, 2023 at 10:18
    
    Not even a Milgauss Z-blue?! 😮
    
    Reply
    1. MG
      maciej-g says:
      
      Jun 21, 2023 at 11:39
      
      “Don’t prove me wrong, Larry, I hate it when I’m proven wrong”–to quote Al Pacino’s Ivan Travalian
      
      ;-))
      
      Reply
      1. GD
        1Gav1 says:
        
        Jun 21, 2023 at 13:13
        
        ¦D Haha!
        
        Reply
    2. MG
      maciej-g says:
      
      Jun 21, 2023 at 14:12
      
      I was referring to current collections (I usually do, since talking about every watch ever made would be… tricky… or about nearly current ones, like the recently deceased Z-blue…) But yes, you got me.
      
      Reply
Enuona says:

Jun 20, 2023 at 16:18

Within a slightly widened budget bracket I believe the Murph could cover funerals, weddings and most things suited up without being a dresswatch really. For the regular blue collar guy it covers those bases and then some.

From the Microbrands I’d pick the Aera P1 because I’m curious to figure out whether it makes as much sense as I think it does and I’d stick to the DSA 43 for the rough stuff, a safe bet.

Boring I know, but with a few exemptions chronograph isn’t really my thing.

Up a level or two, a couple of great gadas would be nice. The Nacho Seamaster and the Henry IWC would have a battle with Goldenyear’s very nice vintage Seamaster. I think two of those would pair nicely with a brand new Moonwatch. Either hesalite with a bunch of straps from Genteel, or a sapphire on bracelet. If “I have to” add a chronograph, it has to be one of those.

Does boring constitute art?

Reply
DK
Ayreonaut says:

Jun 20, 2023 at 19:00

My choices

Dressy calendar for office work
Racing chrono for casual days
Tool diver for weekends and vacations

Reply
Angry_bird says:

Jun 20, 2023 at 20:24

Three watches:
– Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch – GADA except water.
– Rolex OP41 (any dial) – GADA including water, good to wear when (or if) you might be tired from Speedy.
– Nomos (Club or others) with sapphire caseback – when you may want something non-chrono on the strap + you can see well-finished movement.

Reply
BioCeramic says:

Jun 21, 2023 at 05:55

For me the ideal three-watch collection is nothing special amongst watch aficionados; some might even call it stereotypical:

Omega SMP300
Rolex GMT II
JLC Master UltraThin Perpetual

Reply
MG
maciej-g says:

Jun 21, 2023 at 08:43

Does a 3-W-C constitute a personal “holy trinity?;-)

The Trio I’d choose
– GS SBGY011–everyday+dressy (could be substituted by the—now dead—Milgauss Z-blue)
– Speedmaster (could be the current one, could be some older one, so many versions…)—everyday (could be substituted by the—now dead—Breguet 3817…)
– a sporty/toolish one… Railmaster works for me (although a 3-W-C should be one per brand…)… so perhaps Hamilton’s Murph 38… perhaps Longines Spirit…

To answer the question above—no it doesn’t:-)

Reply
tomatonic says:

Jun 21, 2023 at 14:45

Speedy 3861, this is such a boring, obvious… and a correct choice 🙂
Submariner – I would swap that for Pelagos39
Dressy, I would switch for bling/summer watch… could be Czapek, Moser, etc… to break the boredom with a “pop of color” 🙂

Reply
JG
J.D.G says:

Jun 22, 2023 at 02:25

My three watch slipped to 4 watches. The first watch I purchased with my own money was a Seamaster 2541.80 (goldeneye) a long long time ago. Wore it all the time. A few years back a buddy of my owns a pawn shop and knows I like Omega’s had a very nice Constellation 168.016; I was looking for a day-date. Obviously I need a Speedmaster and went with a 3523.51 triple date. Those were my three. Then my buddy got a nice jumbo 2609 (no date) to complete the “date” collection. Clean dial, date, day date, and triple date.

Reply
SW
Sebbe says:

Jun 22, 2023 at 04:25

Big fan of your podcast and your perspectives generally. But I’ve got to say that you played it really conservative on this episode. Speedy+rolex+conservative (boring?) dress watch…
At least the cheaper options had some variety. A Doxa has some idiosyncratic qualities that a 14060 will never have.

Reply
1. balazs says:
  
  Jun 22, 2023 at 09:19
  
  Hey, thanks for your kind words and thoughts. I can only speak for myself, but to me this is not a conservative list, it is subjective. I collected the watches I’d like in my collection. Well, maybe I seem conservative to some 🙂
  
  Reply
cmd says:

Jul 14, 2023 at 04:23

JLC Reverso – elegant/dress
Nomos Tangomet GMT – weekend/travel
Hamilton Khaki Navy diver – everyday

Reply
Scott says:

Sep 18, 2023 at 01:34

My three watch collection is one watch with three functions.

1) Tells the time.
2) Has a timing bezel.
3) Dresses up or down for any occasion.

My one watch = Tudor Black Bay 54.

It’s the most complete GADA I have ever seen and surely one of the best watches money can buy today.

The money saved on not buying other watches means you can afford to go on more adventures with this one watch.

Reply
Børge-Are S. Halvorsen says:

Feb 17, 2024 at 10:25

My three watch collection:
• JLC Master Compressor Chronograph GMT Ceramic
• Glashütte Original Seventies Flyback Chronograph (blue dial, bracelet)
• IWC Portuguese 8 Days Hand Wound (rose gold)

If budget allowed it:
• AP ROO Diver (black dial)
• Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto (titanium, blue dial)
• Roger Dubuis Golden Square Perpetual Calendar (white gold, silver dial)

Reply