Fratello On Air: What’s So Special About Rolex Anyhow?

Breaking down what makes the brand different

August 06, 2024

comments 59

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we ask: What the hell is so special about Rolex, anyhow? Sure, the brand has been discussed heavily, but having had recent Submariner experiences, both hosts hash out what makes these watches so fantastic. For our faithful listeners, the watch content begins at approximately 23 minutes.

What is Rolex’s secret to success, and what makes the brand stand out against countless others? Before you Rolex-haters bring venom to the comments section, give us a listen. We won’t try to change your mind if you dislike the brand, but we will share why we think the company is so successful.

Handgelenkskontrolle

We kick off our episode with banter about the Olympics as Balazs is headed to a special event the day after recording. Mike is still in Spain and discusses the new Inter Miami Adidas Gazelles that have arrived. Then, we mention Kobe Bryant’s Staples Center locker that auctioned for $2.9m. Regarding our watch choices, Mike is wearing his trusty Rolex Submariner 14060M and discusses again why it’s his favorite modern model. Balazs has swapped out his Submariner 5513, giving his GMT-Master 1675 a workout.

What is so special about Rolex?

For our main topic, we hit on several key points. First, Rolex has done a thorough job of buying its suppliers. We review some of the key acquisitions from the past 30 years. Advertising is another area where the brand differs from others by choosing champions and discussing the technical features of their watches. The look and feel of a Rolex is also something special, particularly for such a mass-produced item. Finally, design consistency and a slow evolution have helped bolster the brand’s reputation.

We hope you enjoyed today’s episode! If you have any future topics, please let us know!

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Fratello On Air: What’s So Special About Rolex Anyhow?

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MB
MarkBu says:

Aug 06, 2024 at 09:10

Full of respect for Rolex, but unfortunately have little or no feel for the designs. C’est la vie.

Reply
1. SC
  Tam O’ Banter says:
  
  Aug 06, 2024 at 12:30
  
  I’m exactly the opposite. I have huge admiration for the designs, but contempt, bordering on hatred towards the company as it is run today. The biggest reason for Rolex’s success is the ignorance of its clientele. No other watch brand has had so much garbage spoken about it.
  
  Reply
  1. MB
    MarkBu says:
    
    Aug 06, 2024 at 13:22
    
    I can see the sense and quality of the designs, but they don’t work for me aesthetically – certainly not in the same way ’60s/’70s Seiko do.
    
    Reply
    1. SC
      Tam O’ Banter says:
      
      Aug 06, 2024 at 16:44
      
      Well that’s absolutely fair enough.
      
      Reply
      1. MG
        maciej-g says:
        
        Aug 21, 2024 at 10:33
        
        I am not a fan of Rolex designs. And I don’t like what Rolex has become either.
        
        But I can appreciate their quality, resilience, impact.
        
        Reply
  2. Chaz_H says:
    
    Aug 06, 2024 at 19:57
    
    “The biggest reason for Rolex’s success is the ignorance of its clientele.”
    
    “Whew!” and “Thank goodness for that!” say the Rolex execs every single day!
    
    Reply
    1. SC
      Tam O’ Banter says:
      
      Aug 07, 2024 at 05:37
      
      😎
      
      Reply
    2. MG
      maciej-g says:
      
      Aug 21, 2024 at 10:31
      
      Source of quotes..?
      
      Reply
  3. RP
    R X X P says:
    
    Aug 19, 2024 at 12:29
    
    Thanks for the insult.
    
    Reply
  4. 010 says:
    
    Aug 22, 2024 at 04:01
    
    let us distill:
    admiration for designs (so far so good)
    hates the company (uh-oh, where is this going?)
    ignorant clients (of course, reverting back to the most common and laziest watch comment on the web)
    so much garbage spoken about the brand. ( a moment of self awareness?)
    
    Reply
PS
PSmith says:

Aug 06, 2024 at 09:42

I first heard about Rolex watches in elementary school — many years before I would ever own one. The brand’s legendary prestige is universally well known. Few global luxury brands have this kind of universal appeal. My wife and I are fortunate to own more than a few Rolex watches but their wearing appeal has diminished for us in recent years. I feel that in some ways, their near mythical status exceeds reality but we are still fans of the brand.

Reply
1. MG
  maciej-g says:
  
  Aug 21, 2024 at 10:34
  
  My first experience was–being 11–seeing a Rolex clock on the facade of a main street watch shop. Right next to an Omega clock.
  
  Reply
MoonwatchUniverse says:

Aug 06, 2024 at 10:41

Rolex’ history in sports, exploration, aviation and spaceflight… even worn on the Moon during Apollo 14 lunar surface EVAs. #MoonwatchUniverse

Reply
1. TW
  Berlin_Tony says:
  
  Aug 06, 2024 at 13:07
  
  *but under the spacesuit, not over it
  
  Reply
  1. MoonwatchUniverse says:
    
    Aug 07, 2024 at 07:26
    
    Indeed, thus far 12 different wrist watch brands have been directly exposed to outer space… Rolex not among them… At least 20 of the 1960s astronauts owned a GMT-master but only 4 took theirs to space.
    
    Reply
TW
Berlin_Tony says:

Aug 06, 2024 at 13:19

I deeply admire Rolex’s marketing without actually liking it

The Wilsdorf Foundation’s activities are both admirably charitable & deeply suspicious

Their watches are both superb tools & massively overpriced bling for suckers

Yes, I’d quite like one (vintage please) but I wouldn’t want anyone to know that I had one

It’s probably a criminal offence to re-dial 40 year old Submariner as a Timex but I’d still do it

Reply
1. Chaz_H says:
  
  Aug 06, 2024 at 20:01
  
  Yes, I’ve heard the Wilsdorf Foundation’s HQ is where the Illuminati gather once a year for their big bacchanalian orgy
  
  Reply
  1. TW
    Berlin_Tony says:
    
    Aug 06, 2024 at 20:50
    
    You seem to move in weirder circles than I do
    
    Congratulations
    
    Reply
2. MG
  maciej-g says:
  
  Aug 21, 2024 at 10:34
  
  Not too dissimilar from my feelings…
  
  Reply
JH
conor whitworth says:

Aug 06, 2024 at 13:19

RE: Mosquitoes

I remember coming back from the South of France one year with my legs in absolute tatters. On the ferry home I noticed another traveller with legs in a similar state to mine. We looked at each and then our legs and just laughed.

Reply
1. MZ
  Simple_Taste says:
  
  Aug 06, 2024 at 23:41
  
  Best comment of the bunch!
  
  Reply
2. RP
  staygold says:
  
  Aug 08, 2024 at 05:33
  
  The Rolex gods punishing blokes that queue up for the latest MoonSwatch
  
  Reply
Andrew Allen says:

Aug 06, 2024 at 13:51

What makes a Rolex so special is it is a piece of horological jewellery that believe it or not actually matches a Vostok Amphibia for toughness, reliability, waterproofing and temperature resistance to the extent that if you put a Vostok Amphibia and a genuine Rolex diver in a pot of boiling water for 10 minutes both will still be working when you take them out.

Reply
VC
Victor777 says:

Aug 06, 2024 at 14:17

I started collecting watches in tbe early 90s when Rolex was big but not as hyped as it is today. At the time, i thought that anything other than the sub wss for partners in accounting firms and folically challenged folks. Years later, as my collection grew, i bought and eventually sold 3 pieces as I could never warm up to the bloody cyclops. The last survivor, a no-date sub, found a new home when I traded it for a Leica camera. I respect the brand for the quality and unmatched reliability of their product, but not everybody wants to drive a Toyota/Lexus. I consider every watch purchase as sunk cost (although I made some small profits when culling my collecton) and I’ll keep sesrching for horological bliss elsewhere. I regret not buying a truly vintage sub when prices were reasonable, but today, nothing in the Rolex lineup appeals to me, especially when you have to pay 2x retail.

Reply
Max says:

Aug 06, 2024 at 15:15

There is nothing special about Rolex. They’re nice watches, like many other watches in the marketplace. They simply had better marketing than other watch brands, and so they built a strong brand that stands for “luxury watch” the same way that Coca-Cola stands for “soft drink”. They continue to excel at marketing and have successfully maintained their market positioning.

The problem with Rolex is not the quality, or even the designs. The problem is the pricing. Although Rolex has never been inexpensive, it’s current pricing no longer bears any relationship to the watches themselves. I’d say at least 40% of the retail price of a Rolex is simply what you pay for the brand. Although millions of people are happy to pay this much for the brand, many watch connoisseurs consider this to be excessive, and have abandoned Rolex altogether.

Reply
1. SC
  Tam O’ Banter says:
  
  Aug 06, 2024 at 16:45
  
  Hear hear
  
  Reply
  1. MG
    maciej-g says:
    
    Aug 21, 2024 at 10:39
    
    I was watching All the President’s Men (again) recently and seeing Robert Redford wearing his Submariner in the morning getting the paper for breakfast even before getting dressed… And watching Marathin Man (again) and watching Dustin Hoffman wearing his, which he got from Doc… it does make it sort of special… but at the same time I always say–the times when Rolex was just a maker of good watches. Good times. Nothing “special” except for making good watches.
    
    Reply
2. Bsay says:
  
  Aug 06, 2024 at 22:33
  
  I absolutely agree. When I bought a Submariner (16610) in 2005 for $4800 I was at peace with that price. It was a tool watch and a watch that I knew would be able to take the daily abuse of my lifestyle. However, when I bought a new submariner in 2020 it was at retail $9800 and that price did not sit well with the abuse I expected it to get. It got to the point I didn’t wear it because I was afraid to scratch it, so I sold it. I realized my price point was no longer in line with what you get. Still a great watch but definitely not worth the price. Still have my old sub and it’s a great watch with great memories. But it is very likely my last Rolex and I am ok with that. They are no longer tool watches but true “luxury” items. I don’t need luxury.
  
  Reply
EC
Erdem says:

Aug 06, 2024 at 16:23

I would not touch the 32XX series movements with a 10 foot pole. It’s a shame how Rolex became the “we couldn’t fix the issues with the movement but we’ll go ahead anyway because what percentage will actually realize the problem?” company.

Reply
1. Chaz_H says:
  
  Aug 06, 2024 at 20:06
  
  Rolex has come a long way in the past ten years in promoting/marketing/pushing their after sales service through ADs whereas in the past (pre 2010) they just sold watches that they were happy customers bought for their reputation for being solidly reliable.
  
  Reply
MG
maciej-g says:

Aug 06, 2024 at 17:30

All of the above comments are true and all them combined build a true and compelx Rolex image. I do not see any need for me to add my 5 cents.

I am no fan of Rolex, far from it. But I can appreciate (while opposing it at the same time) what Rolex is.

I would like to own one–either the overpriced but cool Milgauss or–perhaps even more, due to its understatement–the old manual no-date Precision.

Reply
Richard says:

Aug 06, 2024 at 18:18

Quick NBA story for you Mike and Balazs – in the Bahamas last week I saw Bam Adebayo in the resort, both in the weight room putting up some ridiculous lists, and in the Breitling boutique shopping for watches. Dont think he bought anything, though. The man is just a giant!

My favorite Olympian so far is the Turkish pistoleer. The man looked like he casually strolled up to the post after smoking a pack of cigarettes, then purposely got second place so no one would suspect he’s a real life John Wick.

As for shoes, I just picked up some excellent Adidas gazelles in Detroit. Unlike most gazelles, they’re full leather, and have light blue stripes and a dark blue tab on the heel. Just awesome and I’ve never seen them anywhere else.

Regarding Rolex, my enthusiasm for the brand has dulled, perhaps a combination of long wait lists and watch crime in NYC. That said, I love my 2015 Submariner Date and 2009 Explorer 114270. Both are truly outstanding watches and neither has required a severance and run flawlessly. Rolex isn’t just marketing. They really do make terrific watches.

Suggested topic – what do you like most, and dislike most, about working in the watch industry?

Thanks for pushing out so many podcasts so quickly. Your work is outstanding and makes the watch community better.

Reply
xbarx1 says:

Aug 06, 2024 at 19:53

I’m immune to the marketing, turned off by the hype, but own two Rolexes.

I have a 1944 Oyster Royal double reference 4377/4471 that I bought from a German website. It’s a charmer. I’ve never seen another one like it. It’s not flashy or valuable, just a great example of a decent watch from the 40’s.

I bought a 16600 Sea Dweller a few years after they were discontinued. I always liked the chunkier case and epic depth rating. I own probably 40 other dive watches, and always thought I needed a Rolex to round out that part of the collection. I have a weak spot for MRP SA/Monnin-cased divers which borrow a lot from the Submariner. It just made sense to own an original.

Rolexes aren’t my favorite watches, but I’d never sell them. I like the history, stories, and respect the brand as a whole. Them buying all their suppliers was an interesting move. Locking out other brands is a little monopolistic, but it’s not as bad as what happened with ETA. They insured their ability to produce parts consistently. Kind of smart, maybe a little underhanded. They do deserve a lot of credit for their innovation and consistency.

Reply
DC
PdxOm4me says:

Aug 06, 2024 at 21:01

Sorry guys, this was a disappointing discussion. Rolex is the best selling and most recognized watch. But the discussion seemed to think that they had earned the position based on their quality. Come on. I don’t want to rip on their quality, but instead ask if they are that much better than others, so much so that they earned this position of best known watch. No way. It’s marketing.

My local AD has been selling pre-owned Rolex for over 30 years. They are not biased against Rolex. There are regular clients who buy hot Rolex models with cash. They are money laundering. Plus, how many people who have a Sea-Dweller have had the experience of someone thinking they were wearing a Sub and then being disappointed when they were told no, it’s a Sea-Dweller.

If you want to discuss what’s so special about Rolex, you have to acknowledge the reality that it’s hype/marketing and a liquid commodity foremost, and a second.

Is a vintage submariner a nice, collectible watch? Of course. Does it deserve it’s elite status? Only to people who drank the kool-aid.

Reply
1. Chaz_H says:
  
  Aug 07, 2024 at 05:03
  
  “Plus, how many people who have a Sea-Dweller have had the experience of someone thinking they were wearing a Sub and then being disappointed when they were told no, it’s a Sea-Dweller.”
  
  THE primary reason Rolex jacked the Sea Dweller up two millimeters from the Sub.
  
  Reply
2. xbarx1 says:
  
  Aug 18, 2024 at 01:36
  
  Anyone that would be disappointed it wasn’t a Submariner is a status seeker
  and doesn’t know jack, unless they collect rare specific variants.
  It’s basically the same watch with a thicker case rated for twice the depth.
  Who wouldn’t want that?
  
  I do know someone who would be more concerned how watches fits under
  a cuff but I doubt they ever get wet, never mind dive.
  
  I do think the Submariner and Sea Dweller are iconic. The development history
  is pretty epic and these watches have been on a lot of peoples’ wrists who took
  risks and made history as well. Both earned their place on the podium.
  Their status is real. Sadly the masses followed and took some of the shine off.
  
  Paying three times as much for one with red type, ugh.
  Comex on the dial though. That’s very very cool.
  
  Reply
Mars says:

Aug 06, 2024 at 21:57

Those who know nothing love Rolex, those who are learning hate Rolex, and those who have learned LOVE Rolex.

I definitely have opinions about subs, etc., being luxury versions of tool watches, but after you’ve been disappointed by the minor design flaws, poor QC, and mediocre timekeeping of other luxury brands, there is nothing like a nice new datejust. Flawless design (I went boring with smooth bezel and oyster bracelet), impeccable timekeeping. Maybe I’ve turned into an old geezer, but there is nothing better.

Reply
1. PB
  Super Puppet says:
  
  Aug 07, 2024 at 01:30
  
  METAS Omega. Better? Maybe. More bang for you buck? 👍👍👍
  
  Reply
  1. Mars says:
    
    Aug 07, 2024 at 12:52
    
    Respect to Omega METAS, for sure. The new black AT had me interested, but then there’s that design flaw with that gap when the bracelet extension is out.
    
    Reply
2. MG
  maciej-g says:
  
  Aug 21, 2024 at 10:40
  
  Providing one likes the design of the datejust–not everyone does.
  
  Reply
Laurence says:

Aug 06, 2024 at 22:20

I say my Rolex prayer every night. Please God, stop journalists writing the same old inflammatory pieces on Rolex and let’s talk about something interesting 😉

Reply
Dallas says:

Aug 07, 2024 at 00:18

There is nothing special about Rolex. There are so many other watches that have a higher quality of build and so much better looking. It’s only because of fan boys that think Rolex walks on water (and yes, I own a Rolex and never wear it).

Reply
JG says:

Aug 07, 2024 at 04:09

I love listening to you lot with your conspiracy theories about how Rolex manipulates the market and how vintage is superior to one out of the box from the Rolex shop. People who pine on about wait lists for a few years (what the hell is that anyway) down to “Oh I would never own a Rolex, take a Tudor over it…”

Baloney.

It’s like a Rolls Royce – once you’ve never driven one you never want anything else. The same with a new Rolex, once you strap it to your wrist, tell me anything else compares.

I bought my 126660 Deep Sea in 2022, wear it to field as soldier, wear it under in the ocean, war it with my Tux – and I can hear all the fan boys gasping at the audacity, but you know when you have a $20000 Diver outside a Zegna Tux, it kinda looks great and no one complains, and I don’t give a shit what you think. No Speedmaster (whatever you do, don’t get it wet!) or JLC or Breitling or anything else will take the beating I give mine. And nobody ever mistook it for a Sub.

Sure, there are too many things in hoodies and big lips spruiking their hot watch bling on Instagram, which brings down the tone somewhat. But I would posit that the majority of us Rolex owners don’t buy ’em to wave ’em around to impress you bitches but every inch because they love them and have wanted one all their life.

Reply
1. BioCeramic says:
  
  Aug 07, 2024 at 07:28
  
  Who buys a Rolls Royce to drive it?
  
  Reply
  1. Matt_McD says:
    
    Aug 08, 2024 at 17:12
    
    Right?? If YOU are driving YOUR RR, you’re doing it wrong. Lol.
    
    Reply
2. Beetlejuice says:
  
  Aug 07, 2024 at 10:37
  
  Well, a G-Shock would have done the same and even better, and if you wear a deepsea with a tux i guess a G-shock would do the job too 😊.
  So, why having a 20k Deepsea ? That’s the real question…
  Oh, by the way i own 2 Rolex and we have a few in our little family so no Rolex bashing in my comment 🫡 !!
  
  Reply
3. SC
  Tam O’ Banter says:
  
  Aug 08, 2024 at 06:17
  
  I just don’t believe you Mr G.
  I think you’re making up stories
  
  Reply
4. Matt_McD says:
  
  Aug 08, 2024 at 17:22
  
  “…Rolex… tell me anything else compares.”
  
  I’d say that Blancpain compares VERY favorably, actually. I’d also say that a modern Omega Seamaster 300M compares quite well to Submariner, too. Have you ever tried GO’s Sea Q? The smaller version is an excellent product, and you won’t see it on every other wrist at the bar or at the office. My point is that Rolex is great, but it’s hardly the be-all, end-all of watches… especially dive watches.
  
  Reply
luke Eldridge says:

Aug 07, 2024 at 09:42

Rolex, great product sure. However there is a way of treating people and unfortunately those who represent Rolex in the retail space have yet to learn that.

Reply
Big Daddy says:

Aug 07, 2024 at 11:08

Nobody abandons a Rolex, someone lost it and you stole it. You know hotels keep records of who has stayed there, and have their contact info? Would have been so easy to return it to its rightful owners but you chose the “finders keepers” approach. I hope someone does the same to you with your most valued possession.

Reply
Jason says:

Aug 07, 2024 at 13:44

Rolex watches, regardless of whether you like them, hate them, or are indifferent, are so recognizable and expensive, I’m not sure it’s worth wearing them in environments where you don’t have complete control over your personal security. Take for instance the sad case of the Azerbaijan Ambassador to NATO and his wife who were violently attached Tuesday morning in Brussels on one of our nicest shopping streets. You can find the article on the Brussels Times. Makes you think. What if it were me? What if I were with my kids? Just not worth it for me personally…

Reply
AG
Stuckon5.10A says:

Aug 07, 2024 at 16:34

I feel that what is most special about Rolex is its ability to occupy space in the minds of watch enthusiasts and non-watch enthusiasts alike. Whenever an article or conversation starts about Rolex, people dump either hate or praise on them like no other brand. People get all worked up, excited, or enraged when they think of Rolex, and as a vehicle for propaganda, the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation must love it. They do not have to do anything to get attention in all sorts of media, on forums, (even in the New York Times), or one of the number of other places that write stories about their watches. All they have to do is exist, and that is enough to keep this cycle going. Hate will out, as they say.

The products themselves are good. For some they are inspirational. I remember reading National Geographic as a young man and seeing an Explorer on the wrist of an alpinist I admired. It stuck with me as I learned to climb and explore the mountains and other places. I bought an Explorer a couple of decades later, let it go, and got it back. I wear it every day now on a NATO. I just did a mountaineering trip with it last week. I love it, but it isn’t anything worth the attention, hate, and praise Rolex gets. It is just a watch that keeps decent time and appears to be very durable. It is also very overpriced. And while I know that a Garmin can do this, and so can a Citizen or Timex, I still wear the Explorer. I like the stories that have been attached to Rolex because I fell prey to their propaganda as a kid. The brand just sticks in my mind despite its shortcomings. That’s what makes Rolex special, for me at least.

Reply
1. xbarx1 says:
  
  Aug 18, 2024 at 01:44
  
  Rolex really didn’t do as much for their brand as the people did for their brand. They made the watches, advertised them, and made money. People willingly paid more for Rolex. And waited a year or more for one. That’s every watch companies’ dream. They are successful and now people write crap yelp review-type comments about them. Rolex evolved, the masses not so much.
  
  Reply
Marcus Kelly says:

Aug 07, 2024 at 21:35

The simple reason why I hang onto my 36 year old submariner, is Rolex, stands by their products. The service and maintenance by them is amazing. You get your watch back better than the day you bought it. They take absolute pride in returning it recertified and beautifully restored and serviced. That separates Rolex from the rest. They work and work for ever.

Reply
Mela Chuupas says:

Aug 08, 2024 at 06:24

This subject doesn’t keep me up at night. Rolex is coming back down to earth. It’s going to be a humbling experience when the recession hits.

Reply
DM
TacoPants says:

Aug 08, 2024 at 16:55

Hate to admit, but there’s just something about them… I’m in my 40s and was a weirdo as a child who noticed watches. And the adults in my life who I admired for their success and aspired to be like seemed to often have a Rolex on their wrist. I took note of subs, datejusts and even some “subs” that I swore had a mysterious red hand and sometimes a black and red bezel too…

I wanted to be like these people. I wanted to reach a point in life that they had. And in my formative brain, a Rolex was a talisman of that achievement. You can’t buy that kind of goodwill merely with celebrity endorsements and a solid marketing campaign for the year. That was the result of decades upon of clever marketing and brand positioning. That was the genius of Rolex. Well, that and the product never diverging from one that works so well on the wrist on day 1, year 30 or year 50 as you guys point out.

Folks might dismiss the marketing aspect as fluff… but to be susceptible to marketing is human. And the feeling you get when you experience when you’ve earned (not merely able to afford) that watch you’ve aspired to for decades… that’s a very real factor that shouldn’t be dismissed

Now will Rolex always have that? Maybe, maybe not. Many folks have a bitter taste after visiting an AD over the last half decade +

Reply
1. SC
  Tam O’ Banter says:
  
  Aug 15, 2024 at 09:01
  
  I must admit that the night I bought my first Grand Seiko felt special. I had ludicrously spent multiple times the price of that GS on various other watches in the previous three years or so but it took me a while to realise that they weren’t a substitute. After I had the GS my relationship/ attitude towards my more affordable pieces changed…..for the better.
  How fickle we can be.
  
  Reply
AF
AdamF says:

Aug 14, 2024 at 10:59

The maturity of design and the overall quality is simply a step above all other brands i’ve experienced. Nobody does a steel watch on a bracelet better than Rolex.

Reply
AK
AlexK says:

Aug 20, 2024 at 16:10

Rolex may only be a high quality watch, no better than others, but theirs is the brand,

They need to increase prices and keep increasing them until the waiting lists disappear and retail prices exceed second hand.

Cash in themselves rather than let 3rd parties cash in.

Reply