Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Pre-Owned Rolex Datejust Models
Another Friday, another list! This week, we dive into the vast world of pre-owned Rolex. More specifically, we try to find some of the best affordable (relatively speaking, of course) Rolex Datejust models. As a result of the price drops on the pre-owned market over the last 12–18 months, many of the overly expensive Rolex models now have much friendlier prices. While the Datejust has always been the perfect entry-level Rolex, today’s prices make it even more attractive. We picked our five favorite Datejust models, which are also perfect if you want an affordable Rolex.
What inspired this week’s list is a personal wish for the year ahead. Like most watch fans, I also have a list of wants. It’s become a rather long wishlist at this point, but that is fine. I am not in a rush, so I am not intimidated by the ever-growing number of names there. On top of that, the nuances change all the time and are influenced by many different factors. What was at the top of my list at one point might go down a few spots in favor of something else. That’s just how preferences work. A steady fixture on my list, though, has always been a Rolex Datejust. The iconic looks combined with the supreme wearability make it a watch I have long wanted to add to my collection. And 2025 just might be the year to make that happen!
The wish for a Rolex Datejust
My desire to add a classic Rolex Datejust has moved to the forefront thanks to two easily explainable factors. The first is that I was happy to add a few new watches to my watchbox in 2024, and I am very happy with that. The first was the much-desired Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT LE that I missed out on after it initially came out. The 200-piece limited edition sold out in no time, and I expected a long and extensive search to be able to buy one. Luckily, it didn’t take nearly as long as I thought it would, and I haven’t regretted chasing it one bit. It easily became my most worn watch of 2024.
Additionally, I ticked the box of an affordable dress watch with the brilliant Echo/Neutra Rivanera. I have long wanted to add a dress watch to my collection, but I didn’t want it to cost me an arm and a leg. I don’t attend formal events all that often, so the real need for a dress watch was never there. A versatile dress watch can also be worn with more informal attire, and that’s exactly where the Rivanera hits the sweet spot. Lastly, I was incredibly happy to add the VPC Type 37HW to my lineup. It’s been great seeing my colleague Thomas passionately building his brand and releasing the first watch. To be able to play a small part in that has been an absolute joy.
Image: Bulang & Sons
What is my preferred Rolex Datejust?
The Type 37HW also brings me to the second reason I would love to buy a Rolex Datejust. It has all the charm of a vintage watch, but its modern-day execution brings relevance and reassurance to make it the perfect daily wearer. I love wearing the watch, and it has hardly been off my wrist these past two months. But it also made me think about what I wanted for this year. The vintage charm of the Type 37HW has sparked the idea of actually chasing my long-held dream of buying a Datejust. It’s a detail that is quite remarkable but not so surprising. As some of you know, Thomas wrote a book on Datejusts, so the fact that he captured the brilliance of the wearability and charm of that watch in his Type 37HW shouldn’t come as a surprise.
These two factors greatly influenced my wish to chase a nice Rolex Datejust. But what does my perfect Datejust look like? My immediate answer would be the classic 36mm version with a fluted bezel and a Jubilee bracelet. But if you start exploring the wide world of Datejusts, you will quickly find that there are plenty of great options. Some of them are classic vintage models, and some are surprisingly more modern versions of this Rolex icon. In the process of finding the right model, I loved hearing the preferences of other Fratello team members. Let’s find out what they are.
Rolex Datejust ref. 1601
Let’s kick off the list with the obvious pick. If you want the perfect vintage Rolex Datejust, the 1601 is a great option. This reference debuted in 1959, and it combines the familiar 36mm case with a fluted bezel and a Jubilee bracelet. The silver pie-pan dial with the lowered minute track and the Plexiglass crystal add great vintage notes to the watch’s classic silhouette. Ask Thomas about the one Datejust to buy, and the ref. 1601 will be his first answer every time. And I must say that I tend to agree as this is the quintessential Datejust.
During the watch’s production run (1959–1977), Rolex used two calibers for the Datejust ref. 1601. The first is caliber 1565, which was replaced by the 1575 movement in 1965. The latter increased the operation frequency from 18,000vph to 19,800vph. Notably, neither caliber had a quick-set date, but as this was the perfect everyday watch at the time, most people probably didn’t need one. After all these years, the Datejust ref. 1601 is as relevant as ever and a great classic pick to start this list.
If you prefer a different dial color, there are plenty of options. While I adore the classic look of the silver dial, I also love a black dial, Mike’s lavender dial, or a stunning salmon dial. It’s impossible to go wrong with the Datejust ref. 1601. In today’s market, you should be able to buy a nice example for roughly €4K–6K, making it a great pick.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Rolex Datejust ref. 16234
The second option is a Datejust that I’ve had my eyes on for a long time with the option of two stunning dials. The Datejust ref. 16234 debuted in 1988 and stayed in production until the early 2000s. This was a perfectly updated Datejust for the period, combining a sapphire crystal with the 36mm case and its white gold fluted bezel.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Buyers had the option of the Oyster bracelet or my preferred Jubilee bracelet. The caliber 3135 that powers the watch is one of Rolex’s most famous and celebrated movements. It has proven reliable over the decades and is perfect for this watch. And yes, this 31-jewel 4Hz caliber includes a quick-set date mechanism.
Image: Bulang & Sons
When choosing my favorite dial, two similar options stand out. The first is the beautiful cream dial with Roman numerals, which has a certain class that is hard to beat. While the Roman numerals are a step away from the trusted Datejust baton markers, they look amazing. The second option is a similar dial with Roman numerals but a salmon-pink hue, which adds a bit more color to the mix.
Image: Amsterdam Watch Company
The latter option has been a long-time favorite, but ever since I laid my eyes on a beautiful cream-dial version at a Dutch retailer, it has stayed in the back of my mind as a great Datejust option. Needless to say, there are plenty more dial options that make the Datejust ref. 16234 a perfect daily watch. Prices start at roughly €5K and move up to €7K for one in great condition.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Rolex Datejust ref. 16030 “Boiler Gauge” dial
The next pick is a bit of an oddball Datejust. First, it features the weirdly wonderful “Boiler Gauge” dial, which has applied Arabic numerals accompanied by small hour dots and a minute track on the inside of the hour markers. While this type of dial is not restricted to one generation or single type of Datejust, I prefer it in one with an engine-turned bezel and an Oyster bracelet.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Somehow, this configuration provides the perfect balance of refinement between the dial, bracelet, and bezel. Usually, the white gold bezel and the Jubilee bracelet bring refinement to contrast the straightforward standard dial design of the Datejust. But with this model, the dial is refined, and the bezel and bracelet have a more utilitarian feel. I should also add that the stunning cream dial in the picture also works wonders!
Image: Bulang & Sons
The Datejust ref. 16030 is part of the 160xx series, which debuted in 1977 and stayed in production until 1988 when the 162xx series succeeded it. The watch is powered by Rolex’s caliber 3035, which features the quick-set date function, adding much practicality. However, the watch also features old-school Plexiglass for that vintage charm, and I love that about this specific reference. The Boiler Gauge dials are pretty rare and, therefore, not the most affordable. But for roughly €6K to €7K, you get a Datejust that you certainly won’t see every day.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Rolex Datejust ref. 16014 “Tapestry” dial
Another classic that is high on my list is a Datejust with a “Tapestry” dial. Once again, this dial style is not limited to the reference we picked for this list. However, the classic 16014 has a vintage charm that matches the dial perfectly. It is part of the same 160xx series as the previous one, so it was in production from the late ’70s through most of the ’80s. While the Tapestry dials originated in the 1960s, the design still felt appropriate in the following decades.
Image: Bulang & Sons
In terms of specs, the 16014 follows the 16030, which we just talked about. Therefore, this watch also houses the automatic caliber 3035 with a practical quick-set date. Additionally, the dial is protected by a Plexiglass crystal. Those are nice details, but this a watch you choose specifically for its dial.
Image: Bulang & Sons
The three-dimensional effect that characterizes the Tapestry dials is achieved by cutting thin vertical ridges into the dial surface. These dials have always felt classy and chic to me, which is why they perfectly complement the style of the Datejust. A Rolex Datejust ref. 16014 with a Tapestry dial, despite its exclusive presence, is not ridiculously expensive. Expect to see prices between roughly €5K and €6.5K.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Rolex Datejust ref. 1600
The fifth and last pick is a Datejust with a smooth bezel. While that is not how I would have my ultimate Datejust, I can’t deny the incredible charm and beauty of this smooth-bezel model. Yes, I would pick the Datejust ref. 1601 over this one, but the 1600 comes in a close second place.
Image: Bulang & Sons
While the 1600 replaces the fluted bezel with a smooth bezel for a very different look, I would still pick it on a Jubilee bracelet. The refined bracelet nicely complements the more straightforward look of the watch. As this is an early Datejust, it still features the charming pie-pan dial that brings lovely depth to the overall design.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Specs-wise, the Datejust ref. 1600 is similar to its fluted-bezel counterpart. The 36mm case houses either caliber 1565 or 1575 depending on the year of production. In terms of dial variations, you have plenty to choose from. I like the classic Datejust dials for this model the best. In terms of color, I’d go for the black- and gray-dial versions because they fit the slightly more tool-watch-esque style of the 1600 quite nicely.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Current prices for a Rolex Datejust ref. 1600 start at less than €4K and move up to €6K for the special dial variations and watches in excellent condition. This last pick, along with the ref. 1601, is the most affordable option. Combine that with the vintage charm of both these references, and you will understand that they are my top contenders on this list of Rolex Datejust favorites.
Final thoughts on our top five affordable pre-owned Rolex Datejusts
There you have it — a list of five affordable Rolex Datejust options that could be your perfect entry into the world of Rolex. As for the one I will be chasing this year, it probably will be a Datejust ref. 1601 in the configuration shown above. It’s hard to argue with what many consider the quintessential Rolex Datejust. On top of that, it adds to my desire to add a proper vintage Rolex watch to my collection. Let’s see how 2025 progresses, and hopefully, at the end of it, I can say that I found my perfect Datejust. But that’s enough about my quest; what are some of your favorite Rolex Datejust models? Let us know in the comments section, and we will see you next week for another list!
