Fratello’s Top 5 Current Breguet Models
This year is full of watch brands celebrating all kinds of anniversaries, but if there’s one with a milestone anniversary, it is Breguet. The house celebrates its 250th anniversary this year. Yesterday, the festivities began with the release of the new Breguet Classique Souscription 2025. It’s a brilliant first step in a new direction under the leadership of recently appointed Breguet CEO Gregory Kissling, and we are curious to find out what else to expect from the brand. For now, we have selected our five favorite watches from its current collection to warm up for what will hopefully be a great year for Breguet.
Before we get into our list, it’ll be good to address how we selected our favorites. If we had talked to the Fratello team members individually, there is a good chance you would’ve ended up with five Classique models. Some of us would have even picked the same watch. But that would be too easy, so we teamed up and took it upon ourselves to show the diversity that the Breguet brand offers. On top of that, there are some classics that we love and would like to see do well in the future. So without further ado, let’s start with this list of our five favorite current Breguet models.
Breguet Classique Répétition Minute 7637
Do you want to know how to make the whole Fratello team fall silent? Take out this Breguet Classique Répétition Minute 7637 and gently put it in the middle of the room. When we got this in the office, everyone was in awe of this stunning timepiece. The combination of the deceivingly simple-looking, elegant dial and a jaw-droppingly beautiful minute repeater caliber visible through the case back makes for my favorite of the five watches on this list. Give me one Breguet pick, and this would be it.
Breguet offers the 7637 in two “flavors.” The first is a white gold version with a blue dial. The second one, which is also my favorite, is a rose gold version with a black dial. The combination of the rose gold case and the black grand feu enamel is majestic. The case measures 42mm in diameter, 12.35mm thick, and 49mm from lug to lug. While substantial for a classic dress watch, let’s remember that this is a minute repeater and not a basic time-only piece.
A deceivingly simple-looking grand feu enamel dial
Inside the 18K rose gold case lies a beautiful black grand feu enamel dial graced by Breguet Arabic numerals in silver powder. This creates a seemingly straightforward dial. But just look at the wonderful minute track made up of different shapes. Breguet executed these details incredibly well.
Additionally, subtle touches like the famous Breguet signature on the lower half and the text underneath the 6 o’clock marker prove the exceptional attention to detail that Breguet’s artisans put into creating this dial. Contrasting the backdrop are two beautiful hands displaying the time but not revealing the special movement that powers the watch.
Turn the watch around, and further proof of the craftsmanship within boldly comes to life. As Robert-Jan explained in his review, the Breguet caliber 567/2 is a 358-part work of art. It features hand-engraved bridges, a hand-engraved Breguet logo, a unique number, hand-polished and beveled hammers, a gold gong spring, and more. The movement ticks at an 18,000vph frequency and has a 40-hour power reserve.
As I mentioned, the caliber offers the revered minute repeater complication, which the wearer can activate by pulling the lever on the left side of the case. This will initiate the sequence of hammers hitting the gongs to indicate the hours, quarters, and minutes sonically. After spending some time with this Breguet Classique Répétition Minute 7637, it’s hard not to be completely in awe. The stunning levels of craftsmanship are exactly why we love Breguet as much as we do. As a result, this is the perfect first pick for this list.
Image: The Watch Club
Breguet Tradition 7057
Remember how I said all the Fratello team members would pick Breguet Classique models? Well, that was incorrect. Some of you might know that Robert-Jan would probably go a different route. As he owns a Breguet Tradition 7027, a Tradition could also be his pick for this list. But it can’t be the 7027 because it is no longer part of the brand’s collection. We picked the follow-up Breguet Tradition 7057 that presents the same characteristic style. The Tradition line debuted in 2005 and took inspiration from Breguet’s subscription watches from the late 18th century. Those watches also happen to be the inspiration for the new Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 that came out yesterday.
Image: The Watch Club
The Tradition 7057 has a 40mm case with the brand’s signature coin-edge sides and is slightly larger than the Tradition 7027 that Robert-Jan owns. The watch is available in four versions — two with a rose gold case and two with a white gold one. On top of that, three come with a black dial that displays the hours and minutes. We picked the fourth option because of its classic looks. It’s a white gold version with a silvered guilloché dial contrasted by two small blued hands. Additionally, you will see an indicator at 10 o’clock displaying how much of the power reserve remains.
Image: The Watch Club
A visual celebration of the caliber inside the Breguet Tradition 7057
The remainder of the front face offers a view of the different parts of the manual-winding Breguet caliber 507 DR1. As you can see, it’s a stylish mix of silver- and gold-colored elements that contrast nicely with the blued parts, like the hands and screws. If you turn the watch around, you get a nice view of the back of the caliber, which comprises 224 parts, operates at 21,600vph, and offers 50 hours of power reserve.
Image: The Watch Club
The Breguet Tradition 7057 is certainly not for everyone. But despite the aesthetic being an acquired taste, it tells a story steeped in the brand’s rich tradition. Therefore, the Tradition series is so much more than just a series of remarkable-looking watches. They are among the best storytellers in the Breguet collection, which is why they cannot be missing from a list like this.
Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067
The same can be said for the Breguet Type XX. The brand’s series of pilot’s watches is a remarkable standout in a vast collection of very classical timepieces. When Breguet introduced its current series of Type XX and Type 20 models in 2023, many enthusiasts voiced strong opinions about them.
The main criticism centered around the large date window and cut-off numerals at 2, 4, and 5 o’clock due to the big-eye dial layout. In all honesty, we also collectively raised an eyebrow when we saw the newest take on this Breguet classic. The details could have made this modern version of the brand’s pilot’s watch into the perfect Type XX. However, while the 2067 ticks many boxes, it felt like it missed that mark, unfortunately.
But let’s not forget there is plenty of charm to be found with both the Type 20 and the Type XX. We picked the Type XX because it is the great classic we all know and love. Lex raised a great point in all the noise regarding the date window. Would eschewing the date window make it more successful? I agree with his take that it would not. It would look better, yes, and I think we can all agree on that. But at least, as it is now, it ticks all the functional boxes of a modern-day pilot’s chronograph. And let’s not forget that Breguet has tried different executions of the date window over time, including integrating it with the sub-dial at 6 o’clock. The result was not visually pleasing to anyone’s eyes because it was even more prominent.
Spending time with the Type XX Chronographe 2067
The current Type XX does away with giving the date window a prominent spot where it could interfere with reading the sub-dials. And as you can read in Robert-Jan’s review, the date did not bother him after spending a month with the watch. During that month, I also had a chance to try the watch multiple times and found the date window blended in much better on the wrist than in the pictures. What mostly stands out is that it is a charming vintage-inspired chronograph, especially on the leather strap that Robert-Jan wore it on.
The watch has a 42mm stainless steel case that looks large, but it wears nicely due to the short and nicely curved lugs. The finishing is nicely done, as you would expect from a brand like Breguet. It adds a nice bit of visual attraction to the retro looks. The case is matched with a matte black dial with large Arabic numerals, which have a vintage feel thanks to the lume color. It’s the same color that Breguet also used for the white handset.
The high-beat caliber 7821
Inside the case, you will find the Breguet caliber 7821. This automatic chronograph movement operates at 36,000vph and offers a 60-hour power reserve. It also features a column wheel, a flat silicon spiral, and an inverted silicon anchor. For some extra visual pizzazz, Breguet made the skeletonized rotor black to contrast with the steel tone. It adds some life to the backside of the watch. However, the visual magic of the Type XX is predominantly found on the front of the watch. All in all, the Type XX Chronograph 2067 grew on us quite a bit. Still, that doesn’t erase our wish to see a dateless version as an addition to the lineup of Breguet’s classic pilot’s watches.
Breguet Classique 5157
A collective favorite is the Breguet Classique 5157. This stylish two-hander shows everything that makes Breguet such a special brand in a simple dress watch that displays the hours and minutes. But the design and the execution are anything but simple. Currently, Breguet offers the Classique 5157 in rose gold and white gold.
While the rose gold version has all the warmth and classic style, I would opt for the white gold version and match it with a nice light-colored nubuck strap to make it more contemporary. Doing so works miracles in changing the presence. Our colleague Daan has opened our eyes to this with his Classique 5907. The combination of the white gold case with a less classic strap instantly gives the watch relevance and shows its great versatility.
But going back to the 5157, both the rose gold and white gold versions have a 38mm case that is only 5.5mm thick. The classic case features slim, slightly angled lugs and the characteristic coin-edge sides. But due to the thin profile, the ridges are not as prominent as on some of the other Breguet models. The case houses a silvered gold dial with a hand-guilloché hobnail pattern in the center and a brushed chapter ring with Roman numerals.
Simplicity is a matter of details
As Robert-Jan explained in his review, Breguet creates its guilloché dials with traditional tools and a great deal of craftsmanship dating back to 1786, which makes them even more special. A beautiful set of blue hands contrasts with the dial in the 5157. There are also small gold markers for every five minutes. It’s an intricate detail that only stands out when you look for it. That is exactly what makes this watch so special. It is a basic Breguet, but “basic” means so much more in the Breguet universe than what most people would associate with that term.
Powering the Classique 5157 is the ultra-thin Breguet caliber 502.3, which is only 2.4mm thick. Like any automatic movement, it provides the convenience of not having to wind the watch if it’s worn regularly, but Breguet does not just offer convenience. It is no surprise that the slightly off-center rotor is also stunningly finished.
The 162-part caliber operates at 21,600vph and offers 45 hours of power reserve. It is the perfect ultra-thin movement for this stunning daily wearer. The Breguet Classique 5157 would be most of the Fratello team members’ choice as their one Breguet, making it the perfect fourth pick for this list.
Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale 5547
Every so often, a watch makes an impact on you that will remain forever, and it’s not always something you can rationally explain. If there is one thing that we can agree on, it’s that Breguet could do so much with its Marine collection to give it more relevance. We can debate a lot regarding the overall design of the brand’s sports-watch collection, and we would probably agree on some much-wanted improvements. Having said that, as soon as I picked up the Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 about five years ago, something magical happened. The visual impact, the weight of all that gold, and the incredible execution made me fall head over heels for this watch. As most of you know, sometimes images can only tell a small part of the story.
The story of this Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 is about so much more. As I explained in my review five years ago, seeing the watch, picking it up, putting it on the wrist, and wearing it is a layered process that took me from respectful appreciation to blissful admiration. Consequently, it has stayed with me as one of the most impressive watches I’ve ever had the pleasure of wearing. The watch was part of a series of Marine models we had in for review, including the ridiculously impressive rose gold version of the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887. Late last year, Breguet released the same platinum model that Robert-Jan reported on. While that might have been the most complicated and therefore mindblowing model, it didn’t have the impact of the 5547.
The most impressive bracelet I have ever witnessed
A huge part of that is due to the watch’s impact on its stunningly impressive rose gold bracelet. It is still undoubtedly the best bracelet I have ever witnessed up close. Everything about it oozes craftsmanship and quality. Breguet offers the Marine Alarme Musicale in titanium, white gold, and rose gold.
Forget titanium and white gold; it’s all about the rose gold version here. The build quality of this three-row bracelet is unmatched, and the way it hugs the wrist is exceptional. After wearing the watch for a bit, it was hard to switch back to a leather strap simply because I didn’t want to. As I said, this was a transformative experience.
The bracelet is not unique to the Marine Alarme Musicale 5547. Breguet also uses it for the time-and-date Marine 5517 and the Marine Chronographe 5527. This last entry on our list could also be seen as one watch to encapsulate them all.
All mentioned rose gold Marine models feature beautifully detailed cases matched with rose gold dials finished in silver or slate gray, with the latter only available for the 5517 and 5527. The dials feature a hand-guilloché wave pattern accompanied by Roman numerals, a date window, and a beautiful handset. Depending on the model, the size of the case and the integration of sub-dials change.
Essentially, it is about all of the Marine models
While the Marine Alarme Musicale is the watch I fell in love with, this fifth spot could be reserved for the entire Marine collection. Even though there is something magical about the 5547, I also wish for an updated design that will give the watch renewed relevance without losing all the great features that make the Marine such an impressive series.
As I stated in my review of the 5547, the feeling I got from putting the watch on my wrist and wearing it is hard to describe. Essentially, then, I am asking Breguet to make something magical even better. That seems like a weird request, right? I’ll have to think about that for a bit. But I know that the Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 deserves the last spot on this list simply because it changed my perception of what makes the best in watchmaking even better.
Final thoughts on our top five current Breguet models
There you have it — a list of the five best current Breguet models according to us. The brand has many great options, including the brand-new Classique Souscription 2025. It’s a wonderful start to what will hopefully be a great year and a brilliant future for a brand that we all love here at Fratello. But let us know in the comments section what your favorite Breguet models are, and we will see you next week for another list.
