Fratello’s Top 5 Current Citizen Watches

Another Friday, another list! Last week, we concluded our series of articles covering the best watches of the first half of 2024. Now it’s time to move on to something different. This week, we’ll look at our five favorite currently available Citizen watches. Over the past couple of years, this longstanding Japanese maker has shown that it has become the go-to brand for affordable timepieces. And the great thing is that the catalog’s diversity is quite astonishing. It makes a list of just five picks way too short. But we went ahead and picked up the challenge anyway. Let’s find out what our five picks are!

It’s almost overwhelming to browse through the extensive Citizen collection. With an enormous number of fan favorites and an even bigger number of watches on offer, picking the top five offerings can be tough. But we decided to focus on some of our favorite recent releases. They perfectly show what makes Citizen such a relevant brand today. We have been amazed by the great number of impressive releases that Citizen has unveiled in the past couple of years. But feel free to add some of the classics in the comments section. For now, let’s jump in!

Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver NY012x series

Our first pick comes from the popular Promaster Diver series. It’s the line that most Citizen fans know well and love. We picked some great and capable dive watches that could be the perfect entry into mechanical timepieces or just awesome daily wearers. We had two of the four available models in for review earlier this year, and I was blown away by what these watches have to offer.

The first was the NY0120-01EE with a black/gray gradient dial and a black bezel insert, while the second was the NY0129-58LE with a blue gradient dial and a dark blue bezel insert. The series also features the NY0121-09XE featuring a green gradient dial and green bezel insert as well as another NY0120 model. The NY0120-01ZE has an orange gradient dial and a black bezel insert.

All four models have a 41mm stainless steel case that measures 50mm from lug to lug and 13.7mm thick. Each is water resistant to 200 meters and has a 60-click unidirectional rotating bezel with an aluminum insert. The modest screw-down crown is on the right side of the case, and despite its humble size, it visually balances things out nicely. The case is paired with a textured dial that gives the watch some visual depth.

Contrasting each dial are oversized hour markers filled with plenty of lume for great readability in darker conditions. At 3 o’clock, you will find a day-date window, and the slightly quirky handset matches the design nicely while making it easy to read the time.

The best entry-level divers on the market today?

Inside the case, you will find the in-house caliber 8204-21A. This automatic movement operates at 21,600vph and offers 42 hours of power reserve. The brand states that the accuracy is +40/-20 seconds per day. These ISO 6425-compliant dive watches come with a rubber strap or stainless steel bracelet. Interestingly, the blue version is the only one offered with the latter. All the other models come with comfortable rubber straps.

Once on the wrist, the watches feel and look great. They are easy to wear and offer that typical Citizen charm in looks and competence in specs. At €299 on a bracelet and €269 on a strap, these Promaster Mechanical Divers are the most impressive entry-level dive watches we have seen lately.

Citizen Tsuyosa

The logical second pick is the extremely popular Citizen Tsuyosa line. The impact of this series has been significant since the first models debuted in 2022. Over time, Citizen cleverly expanded the series with new dial colors and a few Small Second models. They all proved that the Tsuyosa offers incredible value for money. There is plenty to discuss if we focus on the regular NJ0150 series.

The watches fall into the category of modern sports watches with integrated bracelets. Tissot’s PRX made watches like this affordable, and many brands jumped on the chance to add their versions of a similar-style watch. But Citizen has created a series of watches that sell for less than half the price of the PRX, putting them in a uniquely affordable position.

The watches have a 40mm stainless steel case with a 49mm lug-to-lug and an 11.7mm thickness. This makes them a great size for many wrists. The cases are matched with a series of dial colors featuring different textures. After the initial series of three models with yellow, blue, and black sunburst dials, the brand introduced three blue-dial options and a gold-tone model with a red dial. The collection was recently expanded with more dial colors, including attractive cream and copper options. The latter, in particular, is a super classy one.

It’s hard to fault the Citizen Tsuyosa series

The dials feature a design reminiscent of the popular Rolex Oyster Perpetual but in a tonneau-shaped case. On the central-seconds models, there is a date window at 3 o’clock, and most versions have a date magnifier that is much debated among fans. We feel that the design could do without it, as the Small Second models and the newer copper-dial version below perfectly show.

Inside the case, you will find the brand’s in-house caliber 8210. This automatic movement operates at 21,600vph and delivers a 40-hour power reserve, with an average accuracy of approximately ±20 seconds per day. The movement is visible through the exhibition case back. The watch comes with a President-style bracelet that adds some great style. Overall, it’s hard to fault the Tsuyosa series at €299. We do not doubt that its success will continue if Citizen keeps putting out memorable versions.

Citizen Super Titanium Eco-Drive Day-Date

Another series that greatly impressed us is the recently released Super Titanium models on integrated bracelets. We had a chance to review the Eco-Drive-powered Chronograph and Day-Date versions, but the Automatic Small Seconds series could have easily been part of this list as well. We picked the Eco-Drive Day-Date models because a Top 5 list of Citizen watches would not be complete without some Eco-Drive-powered ones.

Not to mention, the retro-style Day-Date models look fantastic and are featherlight thanks to the use of titanium. Citizen successfully introduced this material to quite a few affordable watches. Therefore, this series brings together several aspects that are typical of the brand.

The watches have a 39.5mm titanium case that is 41.5mm long and 9.8mm thick. The lightweight case comes with a choice of three different dial colors, of which the orange one is our favorite. As you can see, the green and blue dials feature a black light-charging ring on the dial’s periphery. It gives the watches an extra injection of ’70s style that they do not need. The orange-dial version has a color-matching ring that looks better, so it is our top pick. At 3 o’clock is the day/date window, which, despite its size, is no eyesore. The watch also offers an integrated bracelet that, just like the case, is treated with a Duratect coating to prevent scratching.

You can’t go wrong with the integrated-bracelet Super Titanium series

Inside the case, the brand uses its in-house J800-00M caliber. It is an Eco-Drive (light-powered) quartz movement that can run for 240 days on a full charge. The movement features a battery-discharge indicator and an accuracy of ±15 seconds per month. What we love is that thanks to the movement, the three watches have a nice, slim profile. This is a great feature of modern sports watches with integrated bracelets. It also makes these three watches great to wear. They are light, thin, and perfect for various wrist sizes.

As I mentioned in my review, the bracelet’s quality is decent, but the clasp, with its sandblasted titanium inside, gives off a raw and unfinished feel. In terms of functionality, though, it does the job perfectly. Once on the wrist, these watches are nothing short of impressive. The lightness, great dimensions, and retro ’70s-inspired style all contribute to making them great and affordable daily wearers.

If you want something similar to the Tsuyosa series but markedly different as well, the Super Titanium Day-Date is a perfect alternative at €349. If you prefer mechanical movement, the Super Titanium Automatic Small Seconds is another great option at €429.

Citizen Series 8 GMT

Our next trio of watches belongs to the Citizen Series 8 lineup. The series was first announced in 2021 and featured several higher-end mechanical Citizen watches. Last year, the brand added three GMT models to it. The first two are regular stainless steel models, and the third is an extravagant, now-sold-out limited edition of 1,300 pieces in two gold tones. Funnily enough, this last version goes for a premium on the secondary market. I happen to love this blingy model quite a lot because it is a tongue-in-cheek version of a very cool watch. However, the two stainless steel models are the more realistic options for many of us here.

All three models feature a stainless steel case measuring 41mm wide, 13.4mm thick, and 47mm from lug to lug. This modern-looking case is matched with a stainless steel bracelet that nicely complements the overall style. The first of the two stainless steel models is a “Pepsi” model with a blue dial, while the second is a “Batman” model with a black dial. The dial pattern of both watches is inspired by the Tokyo skyline by night, and it adds to the modern overall presence of these GMTs.

An in-house flyer-style GMT movement

Inside the case, Citizen equips the watches with its in-house-produced caliber 9054. This automatic flyer-style GMT has a 50-hour power reserve and a standard accuracy of +20/-10 seconds per day. The stainless steel Series 8 GMT models are available for €1,195 each, making them great competitors to the many affordable GMTs currently out there. Their modern looks, flyer-style movement, and affordable price could make them great options for a higher-end Citizen daily wearer.

Citizen Promaster Fujitsubo Mechanical Diver

We’ll close this list out with another fan favorite. In 2022, Citizen revived the popular Challenge Diver from the 1970s. The modern version — renamed Promaster Fujitsubo Mechanical Diver a while after its release and our hands-on review — is a great remake of the original, which we don’t see too often. As we all know, brands like to give a modern spin to their classics instead of sticking to what the fans want. But Citizen did an awesome job with the Promaster Fujitsubo Mechanical Diver. On top of that, the design looks as crisp as it did in the 1970s.

The one thing that Citizen updated is the case. The watch features a 200m-water-resistant Super Titanium case measuring 41mm wide and 12.3mm thick. The new case is 1mm wider than the classic Challenge Diver from the ’70s. However, despite its small increase, the case is also much lighter thanks to the titanium material. It makes the Promaster Fujitsubo Mechanical Diver an absolute joy to wear. Other than that, the design is in line with its historical counterpart. I especially love the font used on the bezel. It is a timeless one that also gives a lot of character in combination with the oversized markers.

A great remake of a Citizen classic

Citizen equips this watch with its caliber 9051. This automatic movement operates at 28,800vph and offers 42 hours of power reserve. It can withstand magnetic fields of up to 16,000 A/m and has an accuracy of +20/-10 seconds per day. Citizen offers the Promaster Fujitsubo Mechanical Diver with a black dial on a black rubber strap for €649. There is also a blue-dial version with a stainless steel bracelet available for €749. Both options can easily compete with more expensive competitors, including dive watches from Seiko, Citizen’s big Japanese rival.

Final thoughts on our five favorite currently available Citizen watches

As I mentioned in my intro, these are just five options out of many current Citizen watches. But they show perfectly the great diversity of what the Japanese brand offers. On top of that, three out of our five picks come in well under the €500 mark. This is perfect proof that it is hard to beat Citizen when it comes to affordable watches. And with the great number of noteworthy releases we have seen in the past couple of years, there is probably a lot more we can look forward to. But now I would love to turn the question over to you. What is your favorite currently available Citizen model? Let us know in the comments section, and we will see you next week for another list!