Fratello’s Top 5 GMT Watches Of The First Half Of 2024 — Featuring Tudor, Christopher Ward, RZE, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we return to highlighting some of the best watches of the first half of 2024. After already having discussed recently released dive watches, it’s now time to look at GMTs. With most people getting ready to travel for the summer holidays, this is a timely topic. We have seen quite a few additions to the realm of GMT watches lately, especially at more affordable price points. So let’s check out our five favorites of the first half of 2024.

As always, a list of five watches is short. But I can say that we are fans of all five watches on this list. The remarkable thing is that the rise of affordable GMTs that started roughly two years ago has continued. Nowadays, you can find a ton of flyer GMTs for decent prices, which is great. This is mainly thanks to smaller brands massively embracing the Miyota 9075 caliber. But we have also seen some amazing options from some of the bigger brands. Now, without further ado, let’s check out our picks!

RZE Fortitude GMT

One of my absolute favorites of the first half of this year is the RZE Fortitude GMT. I had the pleasure of trying out the black-dial NightHawk version, and it was nothing short of incredible, especially considering its US$699 price. This watch is the perfect proof of the great eye for detail that RZE has shown time and again. The Fortitude GMT is the traveler’s version of the brand’s popular Fortitude pilot’s watch. The addition of a second time zone was a no-brainer, and in my book, it has made a great watch even better. A quick run-through of the specs will give us a good impression of what you can expect.

The Fortitude GMT features a 41mm satin-finished Grade 2 titanium case that is 12mm thick and 47mm long with a 100m depth rating. This watch comes on a super comfortable titanium bracelet that makes it an absolute joy on the wrist. The bracelet features a fully machined clasp and an easy-to-use toolless micro-adjustment mechanism with four positions. Inside the case, you will find the Miyota 9075 that I mentioned in the intro. This automatic flyer-style GMT movement operates at 28,800vph and offers 42 hours of power reserve. The RZE team left no stone unturned to create the best GMT watch for the money. Having said that, the specs only tell a part of the story.

Wearing the Fortitude GMT reveals the true magic of the watch

The watch completely won me over once I put it on my wrist. The design is so much more than a sum of its parts. The big eyecatcher, of course, is the knurled bezel that provides the watch with plenty of character. Another thing I love is the sandwich dial with its grainy texture and crosshair flowing nicely into the date window’s frame. The combination of colors is another great detail that simply works.

Lastly, the oversized crown might look too big at first, but it contributes to the watch’s visual balance. In the end, these are important details that add to a great overall composition and a watch that is an absolute joy to wear and see. The RZE Fortitude GMT was undoubtedly one of this year’s biggest and best surprises.

Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT

Our next pick is the stylish second version of the Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT, which followed the black-dial limited edition from last year that I adore. The black dial was replaced with a white-sand-colored one with applied markers filled with “Old Radium” Super-LumiNova. Topping this dial is a green 24-hour ring and a green-tipped GMT hand.

It creates a completely different aesthetic compared to the first model, revealing the great versatility of this C65 Dune GMT. What has stayed the same are the overall specs and dimensions. The 150m-water-resistant stainless steel case measures 38mm wide, 11.9mm thick, and 43.7mm from lug to lug. These dimensions make this quite a modestly sized watch that will fit a wide variety of wrist sizes.

The camel-tone canvas strap and the vintage-oak-colored leather strap add to the retro-inspired visual brilliance. The third option is the brand’s Bader bracelet, which adds to the visual impact and perception of size. Inside the case, Christopher Ward equips the watch with the automatic Sellita SW330-2. This caller-style GMT movement offers 56 hours of power reserve and is a solid choice of movement despite not being the much-desired caller style.

Speaking of “solid,” the level of quality that Christopher Ward offers is simply brilliant. This watch is sturdy, and the level of finishing is beyond anything else you will see at this price point (€1,250–1,465). On top of that, I think the brand’s designers nailed the vintage-inspired style beautifully with this second version of the brilliant C65 Dune GMT.

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

One of our favorites and one of the most talked about watches at Watches and Wonders this year was the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. Tudor’s Black Bay GMT and Black Bay Pro have been successful for the brand. However, along with the success came the complaint about the thickness of these watches.

Combined with the steep case sides, it makes both of them look like proper chunks of steel. With the new Black Bay 58 GMT, Tudor proves that its GMTs do not need to be that chunky. The case’s overall proportions are nice, with a 39mm diameter, 12.8mm thickness, and 47.8mm length. This makes the watch a great joy to wear and a good fit for many wrist sizes.

This new case is paired with an overall design with great vintage appeal. The watch features a matte black dial and a black and burgundy bezel insert, both featuring gold-colored markings. Hovering above the dial are the instantly recognizable Snowflake hands that make this a true Tudor.

Inside the case, you will find the METAS-certified automatic MT5450-U caliber. This Kenissi-produced flyer-style movement offers an accuracy of 0/+5 seconds per day, a 65-hour power reserve, and resistance to magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss. But what makes this movement a true winner is that it makes the Black Bay 58 GMT roughly 2mm slimmer than Tudor’s other GMTs. That is quite a difference and makes this watch much easier to wear than its chunkier peers. At €4,670, the Black Bay 58 GMT will surely prove to be the next hit for Tudor.

Laventure Transatlantique II GMT

Laventure fans knew it was coming. The only question was how good it would be. As a big fan of the first-generation Transatlantique, I couldn’t wait to see what Laventure founder Clément Gaud would come up with, and he did not disappoint. The second generation of the Transatlantique GMT is smaller at 38.9mm across and 12mm thick but keeps the wonderful vintage-inspired style. If anything, the smaller case only adds to the retro charm. Out of the three available versions, two came in all stainless steel, while the other is in a combination of steel and gold. Furthermore, of the two steel versions, the brown-dialed one has already sold out. The 50-piece limited edition in steel and gold with a brown colorway is still available, as is the limited-production steel version with a green bezel.

Most people love the stainless steel versions, and so do I. Gaud brought back the successful aesthetic of the first generation but swapped the dark green and cream dials of the first models for a black one. It’s probably the one change I wouldn’t have made because the dials made the first two models even better. What has stayed, though, is the beautiful combination of the vintage-inspired sandwich dial and bezel that give the watch its great charm. Adding to that is the compelling case shape in the spirit of the Gérald Genta-designed Patek Philippe Nautilus. The result is a watch that looks fantastic.

A custom-made version of the Sellita SW330-2 movement

Inside the case, Gaud opted for a customized version of the automatic Sellita SW330-2, which was specifically made for Laventure. The brass-colored movement is hidden behind the all-metal case back but looks stunning and features a customized Laventure rotor. This caller-style movement is a COSC-certified chronometer with an accuracy of -4 and +6 seconds per day and a 56-hour power reserve.

Laventure delivers the green-bezel version on a dark green rubber strap. Many people would prefer that the integrated bracelet was the standard option, but if you want that, you have to buy it separately, increasing the price of the watch. This brings us to the biggest issue that most people have with this new Laventure Transatlantique II GMT.

At CHF 4,200, this watch is not cheap. Add 450 extra francs for the stainless steel bracelet, and you’re looking at CHF 4,650 before taxes. Converting that to euros and adding the 21% VAT here in the Netherlands brings the price close to €6,000. Is that too much? Perhaps it is. However, what you get in return is one of the best-looking GMTs currently out there, combining attractive design with an incredible eye for detail and great finishing. That’s exactly why the Laventure Transatlantique II GMT is on this list.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G

The last watch on this list of five great GMT watches from this year is the brilliant Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G. The watch was introduced along with the double-denim duo of the World Time Date 5330G and Nautilus Self-Winding Chronograph 5980/60G. Luckily, the Genevan brand only used the light blue color for the Aquanaut and left the denim-look strap for the other two watches. The Travel Time is my favorite model in the Aquanaut collection. Its case benefits from the two pushers on the left side, which are not only functional but also add just the right visual sparkle that I love.

The new light blue version of the Travel Time has a white gold case measuring 40.8mm in diameter, 10.2 mm thick, and 46.5mm from lug to lug length. Inside it, Patek equips the watch with its stunning automatic caliber 26-330 S C FUS. The movement is visible through the sapphire window of the case back and operates the different functions visible on the front of the watch.

The watch comes with an extra hand to indicate the time at home (or another time zone of your choice) on the same 12-hour scale as the local time. The “Local” and “Home” apertures on the dial show whether it is day or night in the respective time zones. Additionally, the watch features a large sub-dial at 6 o’clock that indicates the date.

The Aquanaut Travel Time is not your average GMT

I love that this Aquanaut is not your traditional GMT. It’s probably more accurate to call it a dual-time watch, but we gladly reserved a spot on this list for this new Aquanaut Travel Time. The watch looks stunning in white gold with the beautiful and subtle gray-blue tone of the dial and the curved-end rubber strap. Indeed, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G is one of our favorite traveler’s watches of the first half of the year. It can be yours for CHF 53,500.

Final thoughts on the best GMT watches of the first half of 2024

There you have it — our five favorite GMT watches of the first half of 2024. As always, this is just a small selection of the many wonderful options. That’s why we want to leave you with a few honorable mentions. The first is the attractive series of Nodus Contrail GMTs. The brand presented four different versions of the third generation of its travel watch, and they offer incredible value for money.

The second honorable mention is the new series of Certina DS Action GMT Powermatic 80 models. Lex was smitten with the two-tone version that offers great vintage charm and a modern-day execution. Lastly, this list would not be complete without mentioning the much-debated new Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126710GRNR with its black and gray bezel and green GMT hand. I still can’t believe people chose it over last year’s brilliant two-tone version in our Sunday Morning Showdown series. But that’s why I want to turn the question over to you. What are your favorite GMT watches of the first half of 2024? Let us know in the comments section, and we will see you next week for another list.