Fratello’s Top 5 High-End Indie Watches Of 2024

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we continue our series of best-of-the-year lists as we cover the best watches from high-end independent brands in 2024. Expect to see an exotic group spanning a nice variety of designs and complications. Of course, five watches do not do justice to the many ones we could have picked for this list. But after some lengthy deliberation, these are the five watches that are our favorites for 2024!

A legitimate question this time is whether you can truly create a list of just five watches that came out in 2024. My answer would be a definite “no.” This year has been great in terms of fantastic releases, so any list that you see in the next few weeks will be too short. But sometimes in life, you have to make choices, and the format of these lists is that we pick our five favorites. So that’s exactly what we did. Now, without further ado, here are our five favorite high-end watches from independent brands released in 2024.

Berneron Mirage 34

Let’s kick this list off with not one but two watches. Last year, Sylvain Berneron introduced the Berneron Mirage 38. It was the inaugural model of the brand that he started in 2022. He developed that watch while he was still the chief product officer at Breitling, but Bernenon has since quit that job to focus solely on his brand. This year, Berneron introduced two Mirage 34 models.

They are not just smaller versions of last year’s introductions. The new models also introduce two stunning stone dials with a slightly different design from the Mirage 38. In addition, the watches are powered by a new movement shaped specifically to fit the remarkable case design.

Mike explained in his introduction article that there is a failure rate of roughly 60% when creating these spectacular dials. The dials of the previous Mirage 38 models looked completely bonkers with numerals that looked like they came straight from Salvador Dali’s The Persistence Of Memory. I adored those inaugural models because they are such well-thought-out watches. Berneron went to great lengths to bring his concept to life regarding design, shape, materials, finishing, and movement.

The same canvas, only smaller

With the new Mirage 34, Berneron took the same canvas in style. However, the smaller case size meant that he had to find partners to develop a new movement, create the stone dial, and redesign the dial’s layout. By simplifying the design, the beautiful hand-created dials have room to let their natural materials shine. The first model features an 18K white gold case housing a lapis lazuli dial, while the second model pairs 18K yellow gold with tiger eye.

Powering the watches is the new manual-winding Cal. 215. This 23-jewel movement offers 72 hours of power reserve and a mainplate and bridges made of 18K gold. Both of these watches are nothing short of wonderful. I love that Berneron was able to bring his vision to life with the Mirage 38 and could surprise us again with the Mirage 34 models, which cost CHF 51,000. They are not just our well-deserved first entry on our list but also Mike’s favorite watches of 2024 for good reason.

Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer

As I already stated in our article about this year’s GPHG nominations, we feel that Bernard Lederer deserves every award that he is nominated for. The perfect proof of that came this year in the form of the stunning Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer. If you are not familiar with this stunning piece of Haute Horlogerie, we’ll let Lederer’s words do the explaining: “One of the standout features [of this watch] is the movement of the minute hand, which follows the rhythm of the remontoir d’égalité every 10 seconds. The minute hand’s movement is displayed on a unique scale divided into 6 steps, each representing 10 seconds, culminating in a full minute. A tiny pointer at the middle of the minute hand guides the reading of these 10-second intervals, perfectly synchronized with the remontoir’s rhythm.” Are you still with us?

As you will understand, the dial reflects true technical brilliance. However, the dial’s understated and practically minimalist style almost underplays its technical wizardry. Lederer’s Central Impulse Chronometer (CIC) is at the watch’s heart. In the first test of competence, it gets a COSC chronometer certification. After that, Lederer took the next step in terms of accuracy and had its precision tested by the Observatory in Besançon, France, the Observatory in Glashütte, Germany, and the “Observatory Chronométrique” in Geneva, Switzerland.

As proof of its certification by all three observatories, the movement features signatures of the three certifying bodies. Additionally, the sub-seconds register located between 6 and 9 o’clock on the dial shows the coordinates of the three observatories engraved in three concentric decorative rings. We could go on for a bit about why this watch swept us off our collective feet, but you probably understand why it is our second pick.

Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT

Another no-brainer for this list is the impressive Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT. It’s the brand’s 10th “Invention Piece” and a step away from its typical design language. But do not be fooled by its seemingly traditional appearance. Technically, this piece is something else and was a no-brainer as one of the best of 2024.

As Lex explained, the Nano Foudroyante EWT offers a Nano Foudroyante set within a flying tourbillon with an oriented reading axis. Adding to the fun is the flyback function for the hand-wound column-wheel chronograph movement. To top things off, the watch and, in particular, the movement are beautifully finished, making it a joy to behold from every angle.

So, what is the general idea behind the watch? Greubel Forsey set out to create a watch with the central idea of controlling energy on a nanojoule scale within a mechanical movement. That idea was realized by creating a movement that uses substantially less energy. Lex explained more about how that is done with fewer components and on a nanometric level.

If that’s not impressive enough, this power train consists of 428 parts. It sits within a 37.9mm by 10.49mm case featuring a white gold case band with hand-finished straight graining and a tantalum hand-polished bezel and tantalum case back. Greubel Forsey ensured that the surprises do not end with the movement alone.

Because of its classical looks, this horological marvel also looks wonderful. It has an almost understated presence that most people do not associate with the brand. Greubel Forsey will produce only 11 pieces of the Nano Foudroyante EWT that have all been allocated, and we perfectly understand why.

Parmigiani Fleurier L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse

Our next pick replaced another one of our favorites from the same brand. We could have easily gone for Parmigiani’s Toric Chronograph Rattrapante with its stunning movement. But only a few weeks ago, the brand completely baffled us with its L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse. The dial-less creation celebrates Michel Parmigiani’s 74th birthday. Besides the birthday watch, Parmigiani will produce four additional pieces of this ultra-special timepiece.

The central thought behind this mysterious masterpiece is best explained by Michel Parmigiani himself: “In nature, every form, every pattern bears the imprint of perfection — a perfection found in the spirals of a pine cone, where the golden ratio and the Fibonacci sequence intertwine to reveal the harmony of the world. With the Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse, we wished to pay homage to these universal symmetries, to celebrate the natural elegance that inspires each of our creations, and to remind us that ultimate beauty lies in the timeless echo of nature’s laws.”

A creation that came to life with the help of exceptional craftspeople

In the quest for nature’s ultimate beauty, the brand spared no resource to create a piece that reflects that in every sense. It’s all impressive, from the materials and the finishing to the craftspeople who helped realize this spectacular tour de force. The watch features a 42mm white gold case inspired by Doric columns and the golden ratio, which are also the inspiration for the other collections. As mentioned, the watch does not feature a traditional dial.

But the stunning front of the watch is created with pastel green translucent Grand Feu enamel over a delicate guilloché pattern. The front was created with the help of master artisans. Yann Von Kaenel is responsible for the guilloché, Eddy Jaquet handles the central engravings, and Vanessa Lecci takes care of the enameling.

Reading the time is not a priority

You must turn the watch around if you want to read the time. You can also listen to the time, saving you the act of taking the watch off your wrist. To start with the latter, L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse chimes the time on “cathedral” gongs. The case’s back and sides are hollowed out to amplify the sound. With the watch, buyers also get a specially crafted box that will make the chiming sound even more impressive once you place the watch on it.

If decide that reading the time is more your thing, you will have to turn the watch around. You will be treated to a case back with a stunning dial. It features a disk of Guatemalan white jade and shows circular indices. Hovering over the indices are a rose gold “H” and “M” that indicate the hours and minutes.

But this piece is about so much more than just passing time. It’s a celebration of the great creativity within watchmaking. This extraordinary Parmigiani timepiece is the perfect proof that creativity has no limits. It also makes for a great birthday watch for the brand’s founder and fills the fourth spot on our list of 2024’s best.

Biver Automatique

Our fifth and final pick for this list is another series of watches rather than a single watch. Last year, Biver unveiled its inaugural release, the Carillon Tourbillon, with much fanfare. While fans and critics alike were impressed, it was also a super high-end creation for the happy few. With the new Biver Automatique line, father and son Biver treated us to a more toned-down series of watches. These models present an impressive, exciting image without the complications of the first release. The Automatique line consists of four watches in total. There are two permanent models and two others with special dials that are part of the Atelier Series.

All four versions feature 39mm by 47.55mm cases in either 18K rose gold or 950 platinum. For the regular models, the rose gold case is paired with a stunning rose gold sector dial. Biver chose a solid white gold sector dial for the platinum model. Both are executed impressively and feature applied indices and a black-polished logo.

Inside the case, you will find the JGB-003 caliber developed exclusively for Biver by Dubois Dépraz. The micro-rotor movement operates at 25,200vph and offers 65 hours of power reserve. It’s almost unnecessary to mention that the finishing of the caliber is meticulous as a display of extraordinary craftsmanship.

Atelier Series models

The two Atelier Series versions are limited in production and feature special stone dials. The first model combines an 18K rose gold case with a beautiful Pietersite dial. Mike explained that the material is a silica-based mineral found in Namibia and China. Pietersite often shows shades of blue, gray, and red with stunning results.

The second watch combines an obsidian dial with a platinum case for a completely different look. Whereas the first model has a rich, warm color palette, the second features a more monochromatic presence. The obsidian dial has a sanded surface, giving it a nice, textured feel for extra depth.

Each of the four models has a look and feel of its own. But what I appreciate the most is that we can already see a distinct design signature that offers plenty of possibilities for more greatness from Biver. For now, the Automatique models claim the final spot on our list of best high-end indie watches of 2024.

Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green”

It’s time for some self-indulgence to close out this list. We couldn’t make it a legit part of this Top 5, but we sure want to mention our latest limited edition created in collaboration with our friends from Czapek. We are proud of the Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green,” which presents a new aesthetic for the brand’s newest creation. I wrote about the three inaugural Promenade models that came out during Watches and Wonders 2024. While those watches were impressive, the new collaborative effort adds extra depth to the Promenade thanks to the transparent dial in viridian green. It unveils the beauty of the brilliantly finished Czapek SXH7 caliber.

As Dave explained, this is our second collaborative effort with Czapek to celebrate viridian green. The first was the successful Antarctique will a dial in this hue. Dave also traced back the roots of the viridian pigment. It was first prepared in 1838 in Paris amid France’s artistic radicalization. Parisian color chemist and painter Antoine-Claude Pannetier discovered the pigment as a hydrated form of chromium oxide. Over time, viridian green became a staple color on the palettes of impressionist artists of the time.

Viridian green: the inspiration for a special dial

This color inspired a beautiful green smoked sapphire dial combined with a 38mm stainless steel case. The dial gives the wearer a view of the stunning caliber SXH7, which is a skeletonized version of Antarctique’s SXH5. While that seems like a relatively easy task, Czapek went to great lengths to create a truly exceptional version of its celebrated caliber, including reversing the escapement and redesigning the crown and keyless works. The sapphire case back offers a great view of the inner workings, but the watch’s face brilliantly combines the visually striking effect of the dial with the caliber.

We are super proud of this 50-piece limited edition for multiple reasons. Most of all, the celebration of viridian green, in combination with the visually striking movement, creates a new look for the Promenade that we adore. It has given the watch a completely different look that many of you also seem to appreciate. While we didn’t want to feature it on our list of five high-end indie favorites of 2024, we did want to mention it as one of our collective favorites.

Final thoughts on the best high-end indie watches of 2024

Overall, 2024 has been a great year for watches. We have seen an absolute avalanche of great releases. While that choice of words sounds alarming, we mean it in the best way possible. In 2024, we were surprised, impressed, and, most of all, excited by many releases. These five watches are part of the collective joy we find in covering the many watches featured on Fratello. This list of our five favorite releases from high-end independent brands has a special place in our hearts. The watches on it perfectly prove that there are many new things to discover every year, and 2024 was no exception. Let us know in the comments section what some of your favorites were, and we will see you next week for another list!