Fratello’s Top 5 Horological Wishes For 2025
Another Friday, another list! For the first one of the new year, we decided to sum up our wishes for 2025. We at Fratello all agreed that 2024 was a great year in watches. Some like to define that by the waves that big brands make. However, we based it on the sheer number of exciting releases we had in the office, got to try at the shows and events, or covered on the website and still want to see in person. Our list of wishes for 2025 will include things we writers would love to see (more of) in the watch world and what we’d like to see go in the upcoming 12 months. It’ll be no surprise that after a good year in watches, some of these wishes are based on the things we saw in 2024. We’ll keep it short and snappy today, so let’s jump right in!
1. Getting rid of ridiculously long waiting lists
A phenomenon we’d love to see disappear this year is the ridiculous waiting lists some brands still have for their watches. Yes, the market has changed quite drastically, and the majority of waiting lists have evaporated over time. Despite that, some brands still have absurd waiting lists for their standard models. Consequently, these watches are unobtainable or only available by paying a ridiculous premium on top of the list price.
And if you decide to put your name on a long waiting list, you might have to sit through multiple price increases and a general loss of enthusiasm for the watch. The effect of this manufactured scarcity is no longer excitement but annoyance. In today’s market, it holds no place unless it’s about extremely exclusive releases. That’s why it’s time for long waiting lists to go.
2. More special watch dials
In 2024, we saw a wide variety of exotic dials. Stone dials, in particular, have made a massive impact in the past 12 months. We applaud this development because it’s hard not to fall in love with a good stone dial. From the classic lapis lazuli and tiger eye dials that take us back to the style of the 1970s to the stunning meteorite dials that have a timeless appeal, they add a lot to the visual magic of a watch.
Stone dials have a mesmerizing nature that makes you constantly look at your watch. The best thing is that they are no longer solely available in expensive watches. We have seen great stone-dial watches from more affordable brands, such as Dennison, Baltic, Nivada Grenchen, and Toledano & Chan. This widespread availability of stone dials is something we love for expensive and affordable watches alike. There is always a place for stone dials, so it’s a development we would love to see continue in 2025.
3. Who needs a date window in 2025?
Before you scroll down to the comments section, we are not against a date window. Not at all! There is a time and place for everything, including a date complication. For example, a GMT without a date just doesn’t work as a proper travel watch, and the classic Rolex models with a date display magnified by the Cyclops simply aren’t the same without them.
We also understand that a date window is practical and sits high on the list of people looking for a watch that ticks many boxes on a specs list. Quite often, though, this practical need for a date window brutally hurts the aesthetics. We can all list examples of date windows at 4:30 that feel like afterthoughts or others at 6 o’clock that wildly mess up the vertical balance of the dials.
We have seen some recent releases that perfectly show the power of a dateless dial. A great example is the latest Omega Seamaster Diver 300M series, which benefits from perfectly balanced dials that do not have a date window at 6 o’clock like the regular models. Additionally, the 39mm Longines Legend Diver series shows that the 36mm and 42mm models with date windows look strange.
An example of a watch with a date that we weren’t the biggest fans of is the new black-dial Breguet Classique 5177. This shows us that a date window is far from a necessity on every watch. We understand the commercial appeal for brands to include it, and if they do, we at least want a dateless option. We certainly do not want as many date windows as we see in the different watch releases every year.
4. Less focus on big money and more focus on true enthusiasts
We get it; maximizing commercial potential is a focus for many brands. While we are not opposed to that, keeping loyal enthusiasts on board is equally important. Especially if a watch brand has a dedicated following of enthusiasts, keeping in touch with that base could and should be the foundation of what makes it attractive to the watch-loving crowd. That feeling is sometimes lost in the current climate, especially looking at some of the partnerships we see.
An example is the collaboration between Panerai and Prada. As Thomas asked in his article, who are these co-branded Luna Rossa watches for? It’s hard to believe that a true Paneristi would want to buy any of the models presented. The same goes for Audemars Piguet’s collaborative efforts with Marvel Studios, which led to the Royal Oak Concept Spiderman and Black Panther models.
The same is even true of Patek Philippe’s decision to introduce the much-debated Cubitus, while the true fans want a return of the Nautilus in steel or a stronger focus on the classic Patek models. While we don’t debate the watches’ commercial potential or horological brilliance, it would be great to feel like there is not just a focus on money over what true fans would love to see. Once again, it doesn’t have to be an either/or approach, but we hope watch brands will at least focus on keeping true enthusiasts on board to foster proper enthusiasm for their heritage.
5. More affordable dress watches
One of the best and most surprising developments of 2024 was the introduction of several brilliant, affordable dress watches. By now, you know we were mesmerized by the Echo/Neutra Rivanera. If there is one affordable piece that excited all of us in 2024, it was the Italian brand’s first try at a dress watch. Many readers agreed it refined what a modern dress watch could be while maintaining a very reasonable price.
But that was not the only new dress watch that made our hearts beat faster. The Serica 1174 Parade was another great example of a watch that combined great style with modern-day execution and a price tag that didn’t break the bank.
However, that’s not where it ends. Raymond Weil extended its Millesime line last year with more great models. The aforementioned Dennison stone-dial models also received much praise. The Frederique Constant Moneta Moonphase stood out immediately, and the Anoma A1 was another fabulous surprise.
The past 12 months have been filled with great dress watches popping up left and right. In a world where we do not need a dress watch all that often, the affordable options are a welcome change. However, this new generation of dress watches also perfectly suit slightly more casual outfits. We most definitely want to see more watches like these in 2025!
Final thoughts on our wishes for 2025
There you have it — our list of five things we’d love to see more or less of in the watch world this year. Of course, these topics are a great spark for a longer discussion and a much more nuanced perspective. But that’s not what these lists are for. They represent the quick wishes and opinions we often encounter and share. Unsurprisingly, compiling this list triggered many talks in the Fratello office. They all come from our enthusiasm and love for watches, which is also how this list came to be. But we would love to hear whether you agree with our five wishes for 2025. Let us know in the comments section, and we will see you next week for another list!
