Fratello’s Top 5 Less Obvious Rolex GMT-Master Models
Another Friday, another list! In the lead-up to Watches and Wonders 2025, we have been highlighting brands that have an anniversary to celebrate. Last week, we focused on Vacheron Constantin, and in the weeks before, we put the spotlight on Zenith. Brands like Breguet, Blancpain, and Audemars Piguet have anniversaries this year too, but they will not participate in Watches and Wonders. We also looked at some watch models with notable anniversaries, and that’s where Rolex is always interesting. On top of that, the rumor mill is very active, so we decided to feature some of our favorite Rolex GMT-Master references. Rolex launched the GMT-Master 70 years ago this year, so hopefully, we will see something great from the Genevan brand.
Before we jump into today’s list, it’ll help to mention that we decided not to go for the most historically relevant GMT-Master references. I already wrote a list like that two years ago, which summed up the important ones that shaped the way we see the GMT-Master today. Instead, we picked five references that, while perhaps not everyone’s immediate picks, are certainly worth checking out. Additionally, it will be interesting to see what Rolex has planned for the 70th anniversary of its traveler’s watch. You’ve probably seen the supposedly leaked images, and so have we. There was a Destro GMT-Master II among them with a green dial and a black and green bezel. Let’s just say that we hope to see something different that celebrates the anniversary in style. While we wait in anticipation, here are our five picks!
Image: The Watch Club
Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 116718LN
Let’s get the ball rolling with the 50th-anniversary GMT-Master II ref. 116718LN. It perfectly shows that Rolex knows how to create a proper anniversary model, even if not everyone was a big fan of this watch when it came out. The combination of a full-gold GMT-Master II with a green dial and black bezel isn’t universally appealing. However, we at Fratello think it looks super cool, and it would easily take a spot on a list of the coolest modern GMT-Master models.
Image: The Watch Club
But there is more to the watch’s story. This was also the first Rolex model to feature a Cerachrom bezel insert, which, when introduced in 2005, marked the beginning of a new era for the brand. It also introduced the so-called “Super Case” that eventually found its way into other Rolex lines. Most notably, that case defined the look of the previous-generation Submarine, which has both lovers and haters. The 40mm case had a greater wrist presence compared to prior models thanks to its fatter lugs, wider bezel, and thicker overall profile. The GMT-Master II ref. 116718LN was also powered by the in-house caliber 3186. This movement operates at 28,800vph and has 50 hours of power reserve. Like all GMT-Master II calibers, it is of the flyer style and features an independently adjustable 12-hour hand.
Image: The Watch Club
This GMT-Master II was slept on for a long time
Because this brilliant 50th-anniversary model was not immediately popular with everyone, it stayed under the radar for a long time. However, fans have discovered since then that this is an amazing modern GMT-Master. Prices for one start just under €31K and move up to nearly triple that amount. However, you should easily be able to find a good one for €35K or less. That will buy you a great example of a properly executed Rolex anniversary model.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Rolex GMT-Master ref. 16750
Another great GMT-Master that doesn’t often top people’s lists is the 16750. This transitional reference was produced from 1980 until 1988 and marked a technical step forward compared to the legendary GMT-Master ref. 1675 that came before. The biggest update was the 3075 caliber, which beat at a higher frequency of 28,800vph compared to 19,800vph like the previous caliber 1575. Additionally, the caliber featured a quickset date for better everyday practicality. Lastly, Rolex increased the water resistance rating from 50 to 100 meters.
Image: Bulang & Sons
When it comes to dials, there are multiple variations to consider. We prefer the early matte black dials with the painted lumed hour markers. They maintain the vintage spirit better than the later versions. In the mid-1980s, Rolex switched to glossy black dials, and that’s also when the white gold hour markers made their entry. While the watch still looked great, the vintage looks of the earlier matte black dials helped make this watch such a stunner.
Image: Bulang & Sons
What is your bezel of choice?
When looking for the right GMT-Master ref. 16750, you’ll also come across different bezel inserts, of course. Do you prefer a faded one or a vibrant, colorful bezel? Both are available if you start your search for the same GMT-Master reference that Tom Selleck wore in Magnum, P.I. If you want to read more about the 16750, Mike wrote a longer article on his beautiful matte-dial version. Prices for the GMT-Master ref. 16750 start at just under €10K and move up to €18K for one with its box, papers, and a pristine bezel.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Rolex GMT-Master ref. 1675/3
In general, watch fans do not seem to love the combination of steel and gold. To be honest, it had to grow on me as well. Twenty years ago or so, I didn’t like two-tone options very much. Full stainless steel was fine, and full gold was also great, but the combination of these metals wasn’t my favorite. That all changed thanks to the gold and steel Datejusts that I had a chance to wear multiple times and the brilliant GMT-Master 1675/3 that doesn’t look like any other Rolex.
Image: Bulang & Sons
This watch is also known as the “Clint Eastwood,” “Tiger Eye” (or “Tiger Auge” in German), and “Root Beer.” The latter two nicknames are, of course, a reference to its distinct presence. As I explained in a lengthy plea to bring back this style, the looks are a great, flashy statement of ’70s opulence. Rolex introduced the 1675/3 in a mix of stainless steel and 14K gold in 1970. When this watch debuted, it was the first two-tone GMT-Master. It joined the stainless steel 1675 and the wonderful all-gold 1675/8, which I would also put on this list as a wildcard option. In its overall presence, the Tiger Eye/Root Beer is a lot closer to the full-gold models than the stainless steel 1675.
Image: Bulang & Sons
The characteristic “nipple dial”
The aesthetics were defined by the 40mm stainless steel case graced by a yellow gold bezel and crown. The gold bezel featured a brown and gold insert that inspired the Root Beer nickname. These colors combined well with the matte dark brown dial. This stunning dial featured distinctive gold indexes with small lume plots, hence the “nipple dial” nickname. Completing the aesthetic was either a two-tone Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. While I would generally pick the Oyster bracelet for Rolex sports watches, the two-tone GMT-Master is the happy exception.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Inside the case was the Rolex caliber 1575. This bulletproof movement powered the watch until the 16753 (with no slash) replaced it in 1980. But in those 10 years of production, the style made its mark in history, and it has gone on to become a favorite among many enthusiasts, including yours truly. Prices for this classic GMT-Master start at a little over €10K and move up to €20K for one in good condition. This will buy you one of my five favorite vintage Rolexes.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 16710
Our next pick is indeed a super popular GMT-Master model, but we picked a special “version” from its two-decade production run. The Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 16710 was in production from the late 1980s until 2007. That year, it was replaced by the 116710, which was the first stainless steel model with a Cerachrom bezel insert. You will see the 16710 with a full-black bezel, a red and black “Coke” bezel, or the traditional blue and red “Pepsi” bezel.
Image: Bulang & Sons
The Pepsi bezels of the 2001 and 2002 models are special, though. My Fratello colleague Gerard owns a GMT-Master II ref. 16710 from 2002, and it came with a faded red portion of the bezel insert straight out of the box. This instantly gave the watch a vintage feel. Of course, that’s not something every owner of a new Rolex liked, so a lot of the bezel inserts were replaced with new ones in the years after. But if you ask us, it gives the watch an unmistakable and lovable charm.
Image: Bulang & Sons
The faded bezel is the one to go for
The watch was powered by the in-house caliber 3185, although some of the last models were already powered by the follow-up caliber 3186. The 3185 operated at 28,800vph and offered 50 hours of power reserve. Finding a 16710 is easy because of its long production run. If you want to find a model with a “factory-faded” bezel insert, look for the K or Y serial numbers from 2001/2002, as Gerard explained.
Image: Bulang & Sons
As mentioned, though, many bezel inserts have been replaced in the meantime, so you might have to search for a bit. Prices for a GMT-Master II ref. 16710 start around €8K and go up to approximately €20K. We spotted some versions with the faded bezel that were roughly €13K to €16K. This sum will get you a beautiful version of the 16710, the last of the aluminum-bezel GMT-Masters.
Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126713GRNR
Our last pick is the brilliant two-tone GMT-Master II ref. 126713GRNR, which debuted two years ago alongside its full-gold brother. These two modern GMT-Master II models have a little of that vintage spark that the other current GMT-Masters lack. Those are shiny, modern sports watches that seem further removed from the great classics than these two options. The 126713GRNR is the gold and steel version, and it looks fantastic with its gray and black bezel insert. While last year’s stainless steel version with a similar bezel is a bit boring, this gold and steel model is anything but!
The watch features the familiar 40mm stainless steel case with a gold bezel and crown. It is matched with a black dial, gold hands, and the aforementioned gray and black bezel insert with gold markings. What makes the 126713GRNR in Rolesor even better is the yellow gold and steel Jubilee bracelet. After the Yacht-Master 42 in titanium, this is probably my favorite current Rolex model. Inside the case, you will find the chronometer-rated automatic caliber 3285. This GMT caliber operates at 28,800vph and offers a healthy 70 hours of power reserve.
The price has increased over the last two years, with the 126713GRNR currently retailing for €18,650 compared to the €16,450 introduction price. A quick peek at pre-owned options shows that one will cost between €17K and €20K. This will buy you one of our favorite current Rolex models which best maintains the GMT-Master charm of the past.
Final thoughts on the top five less obvious Rolex GMT-Master models
There you have it — a list of five Rolex GMT-Masters that are not your obvious picks. Next week, let’s find out whether Rolex will add a model that gets us as excited as the five featured here. In the meantime, let us know what your favorite GMT-Master (II) reference is. We will see you next week for a new list!
