Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Reissues — Featuring Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Zenith, And More

Another Friday, another list! Attentive readers will notice that this is our second list article this week. On Wednesday, we put the spotlight on regulator watches, an often-forgotten style that deserves more attention. Today, we’ll continue our regular Friday series of lists with our picks for the best modern reissues of great classics. The watch industry thrives on looking into the past and bases many of its releases on that. We decided to pick the top five watches we feel do their vintage counterparts the greatest justice in the modern day.

Before we start, here is a quick note on what a modern reissue should be. For most of us, that would be a remake of the original watch but powered by a modern movement and built with modern-day production standards in mind. However, the watch should also respect the original watch’s size and design. As we all know, not all brands agree with this philosophy. Modern reissues regularly have different case sizes or sometimes add a date, making them too different for comfort. While there are watch enthusiasts who are not as strict in their preferences, we like a good reissue to be as true to the original as possible. Now, with that clarified, let’s jump in!

Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222

If you read between the lines, you are probably aware that the recent Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 release sparked the idea for this list. That’s why it only makes sense that it is the first pick for our top five modern reissues. When Vacheron Constantin unveiled the gold version of the iconic 222 back in 2022, it came at exactly the right time. Enthusiasts had long wanted to see the watch return in a modern version. The brand released the full-gold model as the first proof that the 222 is still as relevant as it was when it debuted in 1977.

While the gold version is very limited in production and costs a whopping €81,500, it didn’t spark the usual disapproval that comes with watches this exclusive. No, the Historiques 222 was met with universal praise simply because it was so great to see a modern reissue of this classic. In Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary, almost three years later, the brand released the long-awaited stainless steel version.

Vacheron Constantin’s respect for the original design was refreshing. It perfectly shows the brilliance of Jorg Hysek’s remarkable creation. The watch respects the 37mm case size of the 222 “Jumbo” from the ’70s. It’s just slightly thicker at 7.95mm compared to the 7.2mm profile of the original 222.

That’s because it houses the modern Vacheron caliber 2455/2, which features a quick-set date mechanism, a feature that the original did not have. While that choice has slightly changed the case’s proportions, it doesn’t diminish the design’s impact at all. On top of that, most of us will never have the chance to put the original next to the modern reissue, so the 0.75mm difference becomes a rather inconsequential number on paper.

The Historiques 222 is the perfect modern reissue

What is far from inconsequential is the grandeur of the design. The gold Historiques 222 was one of our collective favorites here at Fratello. However, the new stainless steel version might make an even greater impact. It simply feels more “accessible” and “normal,” for lack of better words. It’s strange to say because the design with its stellar integrated bracelet is far from normal. Additionally, its €35,300 price is much lower than the gold version’s but still far beyond what most of us are willing to spend on a watch.

But putting the Historiques 222 on your wrist is special. You feel that from the moment the metal touches your skin. The case size is perfect for a watch with an integrated bracelet. It has a certain vintage modesty that most of us love. Plus, the bracelet is one of the best and nicest bracelets ever made. The way it hugs the wrist is phenomenal. I could go on for a bit with my song of praise, but you get it. Vacheron Constantin did an utterly amazing job with the two modern reissues of the 222, which is why they are the first pick for this list.

Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 “Ed White”

Our second pick needs no introduction. When Omega announced the Speedmaster Calibre 321 “Ed White,” it immediately became a fan favorite. It’s remarkable to realize that it has already been five years since Omega released the stainless steel 321. A year before, the brand presented the first modern Speedmaster Calibre 321 with a platinum case. From that moment on, Speedy fans knew it was only a matter of time before we saw a stainless steel version. The impact was palpable when it finally arrived in the first week of 2020.

Over time, Robert-Jan has written plenty of stories about his 321, and the watch won our 2020 Speedmaster World Cup by popular vote. Needless to say, this watch is a perfect second pick for our list. If you want to learn more about the Speedmaster Calibre 321, I suggest you read Robert-Jan’s article on what makes the watch so special. You can also read his in-depth review and thoughts on whether he would buy it again. Just as a short recap, the modern Speedmaster Calibre 321 was based on Gene Cernan’s Speedmaster 105.003. The watch is manufactured according to modern production standards, making it the perfect reissue of a third-generation Speedy.

A dedicated production facility for the Speedmaster Calibre 321

But there is more to it than that. Every watch, including the movement, is assembled twice and adjusted by a single watchmaker at Omega’s dedicated production facility in Biel. As mentioned, the brand adhered to the design from the Speedmaster ref. 105.003, also known as the “Ed White.” The watch features a beautiful 39.7mm stainless steel case that is 47.8mm from lug to lug and 13mm thick. This straight-lug case is combined with a black galvanized step dial with three registers finished beautifully with refined concentric graining. Some modern touches are a black ceramic bezel insert and a sapphire crystal with an etched Omega logo in the center.

Turn the watch around, and you will get a glorious view of the Sedna Gold-plated Omega caliber 321. As mentioned, one watchmaker is responsible for one watch, including the movement. He or she will put it together, adjust/regulate it, disassemble it, clean it, and assemble it again. In addition, all the 321s are serviced exclusively in the same facility.

This level of quality control allows Omega to create a watch that stands out from all the other Speedmasters. You also feel that when you put the watch on your wrist. The case, the proportions, the movement, the bracelet, and the finishing all leave a lasting impression. While the Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 might not be an exact remake of the original 105.003 in all its details, at €17,100, it is the perfect modern 321-powered Speedy.

Grand Seiko SLGW004 and SLGW005

Last September, Grand Seiko treated us to the lovely SLGW004 and SLGW005. These two models gracefully reintroduced Grand Seiko’s famous 45GS case style in all its glory. As Thomas explained, Grand Seiko perfectly respected the original design, size, and proportions of the case.

It’s an absolute joy to see the distinct short-lug case design, and the light cream dials with the Seiko logo on the upper half and the Grand Seiko emblem on the lower one bring a smile to our faces. Grand Seiko released two versions of the watch — a 200-piece limited edition in 18K yellow gold and a stainless steel version produced in a limited run of 1,200 pieces.

The watches feature a stunning 38.8mm case with a 10.4mm thickness and a modest 43.7mm lug-to-lug. A box-shaped sapphire crystal on top further enhances the vintage vibes of these watches. The beautifully faceted applied indexes and razor-sharp hands contrast the beautiful dials. They also perfectly match the Zaratsu and brushed finishes of the case. This all leads to a duo of watches that make a lasting impression once you put them on your wrist. I was impressed by Grand Seiko’s efforts to make these two models as close to the original as possible. But once I got them on my wrist, I fell in love with the stainless steel version. The feeling I got from wearing it was magical.

The modern hand-wound Hi-Beat 9SA4 caliber

However, where the design, size, and proportions are in sync with the original models from the 1960s, the movement is a brilliant modern work of horological art. Both watches are powered by the hand-wound 9SA4 caliber that the brand introduced during Watches and Wonders last year. The modern hand-wound Hi-Beat caliber operates at 36,000vph and has an impressive 80-hour power reserve. This is achieved thanks to a double-impulse escapement and a set of twin barrels.

As always, the movement features beautiful finishing, and it’s a perfect contemporary caliber to power these modern reissues. Both watches were available starting in November 2024 and probably sold out quickly. But if you happen to run into one, I advise you to try it on. It doesn’t matter whether it is the gold model or the stainless steel version. Both are perfect proof that Taro Tanaka’s Grammar of Design is as magical now as it was 60 years ago.

Zenith Chronomaster Original

Zenith is a brand that truly understands how important it is to recognize the power of its icons of the past. The brand has built a full collection around its classic trio of El Primero watches from 1969. In addition, the Zenith team shows the great power of the original designs by putting them in a modern-day context. But the originals are a great starting point, so we picked the Zenith Chronomaster Original for this list. We could have also picked the Chronomaster A384, which is my favorite. But the Chronomaster Original is the perfect modern version of the more popular classic Zenith El Primero A386, and it adds some clever modern updates to the mix.

First, the Chronomaster Original has the same 38mm bezel-less case as the A386 from 1969. It features sharp, faceted lugs, and on the right, you find the classic pump-style pushers. When the Chronomaster Original came out in 2021, it was combined with a white dial and the famous tricolor sub-dials, just like the A386. The watch perfectly shows how crisp and eye-catching the original design was. Zenith equips the Chronomaster Original with its in-house El Primero 3600 caliber. This high-beat automatic chronograph caliber is a direct descendant of the long-running El Primero 400, which many consider watchmaking royalty.

Modern updates that make perfect sense

The column-wheel chronograph movement has a modern 60-hour power reserve. If you start the chronograph with a firm click of the upper pusher, the central chronograph hand makes a full rotation in 10 seconds. As a result, the chronograph can time events precisely to 1/10th of a second. While it is a bit of a party trick, it is also a great display of the potential of the high-beat El Primero movement.

Another welcome update was the stainless steel bracelet. For the Chronomaser Original, Zenith decided to skip the Gay Frères ladder design and use a more conventional three-row bracelet. While the original ladder bracelet brings a lot of character, the daily comfort of the current bracelet is a welcome update that fans welcomed with open arms.

Over time, Zenith has released a string of different versions of the Chronomaster Original. A logical one was adding a black-dial version with the same tricolor sub-dials. Other highlights include the regular reverse panda model, the Poker Chip, and Hodinkee limited editions.

Image: SJX Watches

They are perfect proof of the relevance of the A386’s design. In the end, though, nothing beats the original version that the collection is based on. It is a great modern edition of the classic A386 that includes smart updates, making it a great fourth pick for this list.

Piaget Polo 79

We started this list of modern reissues with a gold watch, so it only seems fair to finish it with one. Last February, Piaget surprised us with a reissue of its classic Polo in full gold. The Polo 79 proudly reintroduced the opulence of the original Polo from the late ’70s, which became an icon in the following decade. As I’ve stated in multiple articles, the original Piaget Polo models are probably the best manifestation of luxury watchmaking in the late 1970s and early ’80s.

They combined extravagant designs with shiny precious metals and slim quartz movements. Consequently, they perfectly fit the style of that era and were some of the proudest statements of wealth in those days.

As it turns out, the unveiling of the Polo 79 came at exactly the right time. Quite often, stylistic statements from the ’80s are met with a frown. But as we’ve seen a rise in the popularity of extravagant precious metal watches with exotic dials, the Polo 79 was met with a lot of praise. In a clever move, Piaget opted for a mechanical caliber rather than holding on to a quartz movement. It has made this modern reissue a lot more interesting for many watch enthusiasts and has certainly contributed to the widespread praise.

A hefty gold statement that is modest in its appearance

The Polo 79 is characterized by its 38mm round case that is 7.45mm thick and features recognizable engraved horizontal lines called “gadroons.” The same horizontal lines can also be found on the integrated 18K yellow gold bracelet. As Robert-Jan explained, the rather modestly sized watch weighs almost 200 grams, making it a hefty gold statement.

Inside the gold case, you will find the ultra-thin micro-rotor caliber 1200P1. The in-house movement is only 2.25mm thick and offers 44 hours of power reserve. It is the perfect update for this reissue and greatly pleased watch aficionados.

In all honesty, you have to be a true aficionado to spend €81,500 on the Piaget Polo 79. It’s a hefty price for a modern reissue. That said, the Polo 79 shows that there is still relevance in designs from eras often deemed questionable. The choice of movement also shows there is always room for great and relevant updates. We love this Piaget Polo 79 a lot, which is why it is the final pick for our list.

Final thoughts on the best modern reissues

In a watch world full of admiration for the past, our picks are just the tip of the iceberg. Let this list be the starting point of a discussion on your favorite modern reissues of the classics. But before we wrap it up, I’d like to suggest some great options that didn’t make it to this list but deserve a mention. The Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition from 2019 was a great one that sparked several wonderful modern versions of Breitling classics. Last year’s Daniel Roth Tourbillon in rose gold and the yellow gold version that preceded it both show the updated relevance of Daniel Roth’s creations.

Another honorable mention is the Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02, a reissue of an ultra-rare classic from the Le Brassus-based brand. Or how about the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir that also came out last year? Other classics that come to mind are the Aquastar Deepstar, the various reissues of the Heuer Carrera, and the many Seiko Prospex divers we have seen over the years. The list is endless, and it puts our top five picks in perspective But now I want to turn the question over to you. What are your favorite modern reissues of classic watches from the past? Let us know in the comments section, and we’ll be back with another list next week!