Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Speedmasters With Straight Lugs
Another Friday, another list! Last week, we explored five of the many vintage Tudor options out there. For this week, we decided to dip our toes into the extensive world of Omega Speedmasters. Of course, we have our series of Speedy Tuesday articles to explain everything there is to know about the famous chronograph. But for this week’s Top 5, in light of the release of the new Speedmaster FOiS, we focused on modern Omega Speedmaster models with straight-lug cases. Let’s find out what your best options are!
Before getting into the list, it’s good to remind ourselves of the original Speedmasters with straight-lug cases. The first reference was CK2915, and CK2998, 105.002, and 105.003 followed. These four generations inspired the modern Speedmaster reinterpretations on this list. As you will see, not all of these five watches are “reissues” in the strictest sense, though some come much closer than others. Now, without further ado, let’s look at five fantastic Speedmaster references with straight-lug cases.
Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001
Let’s kick this list off with the brilliant Speedmaster Calibre 321 that debuted in 2020. As most of you know, the production of this special Speedmaster happens in a separate facility in Biel/Bienne. While that is special on its own, it is all about the result, which is a remarkable Speedmaster indeed. Robert-Jan has this Speedmaster Calibre 321 and has written several times about what makes it such a great timepiece to own. If you are interested in an extensive list of reasons, I suggest you read Robert-Jan’s article on what makes the watch so special. Or you can read his in-depth review and thoughts on whether he would buy it again.
But just as a quick reminder, here are some specs and reasons we love it. The watch takes inspiration from the Speedmaster ref. 105.003, also known as the “Ed White.” Therefore, it has a 39.7mm stainless steel case that is 47.8mm from lug to lug and 13mm thick. Inside this case lies a black galvanized step dial with three registers finished beautifully with refined concentric graining. The bezel features a black ceramic insert with a tachymeter scale in crisp white. Additionally, a sapphire crystal with an etched Omega logo in the center protects the dial.
The brilliant modern version of the 321 movement
If you turn the watch around, you will see the glorious Sedna Gold-plated Omega caliber 321. As Robert-Jan noted, one watchmaker works on one watch at a time. In addition, that same watchmaker assembles the caliber twice. So he or she will put it together, adjust/regulate it, disassemble it, clean it, and assemble it again.
It is a time-consuming task, but it allows the watchmaker to check every single component multiple times and see how the movement runs. It’s a level of quality control that makes the watch stand out from all the other Speedmasters. And that meticulous level of detail continues after you buy the watch because the special facility in Bienne is the only place where Omega will service it.
But all these words cannot describe what it feels like to wear the Speedmaster Calibre 321. Once you have it on the wrist, you immediately understand what makes this a special Speedmaster. The case, the proportions, the movement, the bracelet, and the finishing translate into a watch you won’t easily forget.
It’s a super comfortable watch that wears incredibly well and looks stunning. Furthermore, while Omega does not call this watch a limited edition, the brand produces only 1,000–2,000 pieces per year. Add the €17,100 list price, and it makes this a watch that not everyone can get their hands on. But once you do, you can wear a modern Speedmaster that represents a significant part of Speedmaster history.
Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space ref. 311.32.40.30.01.001
Next up is the predecessor of the Speedmaster that sparked the idea for this list. It’s also the oldest watch of these five, though we certainly couldn’t even consider it neo-vintage. The Speedmaster First Omega in Space, or FOiS, debuted at Baselworld in 2012. The watch was inspired by the design of the second-generation Speedmaster ref. CK2998. This special Speedmaster numbered edition had a 39.7mm stainless steel case with a 47mm lug-to-lug and 14mm total thickness. The watch came with a sapphire crystal protecting the black dial and characteristic Alpha hands hovering above it.
The first FOiS features a modern case back with an embossed hippocampus emblem and the unique number of the watch. Hidden behind the case back, you will find the Omega caliber 1861. This manual-winding movement also powered the Moonwatch and many special editions from 1996 through 2020. The Speedmaster FOiS came fitted with a brown leather strap, but over time, people started swapping that for aftermarket bracelets, such as the popular Forstner Flat Link with 19mm end links.
A popular choice among Speedmaster enthusiasts
In the years following its introduction, the Speedmaster FOiS remained a popular and relatively affordable Speedmaster option. Multiple members of the Fratello team have owned or still own one and love it. When Omega announced the discontinuation of the watch in 2020, it sparked a run on this model, and prices spiked as a result. With the introduction of the second generation of the FOiS, there will also be an increased focus on the first one.
Prices for a first-generation FOiS have not decreased significantly, unlike many other models. Expect asking prices to start at roughly €4K (before import taxes and duties) and move up rapidly. However, it is the most affordable option on this list and still a great modern straight-lug Speedmaster.
Omega Speedmaster ’57 ref. 332.10.41.51.01.001
An option that is often overlooked is the somewhat different Speedmaster ’57 series. The latest generation of these two-counter Speedmasters was introduced in 2022. With an updated, slimmer case and a hand-winding movement, this was a great follow-up to the previous generation. Having said that, die-hard Moonwatch fans often tend to ignore the series because it doesn’t have the classic Speedmaster dial layout.
However, the aesthetic of the Speedmaster ’57 is very much inspired by the first-generation Speedmaster CK2915. And Omega added plenty of great details to ensure this latest Speedmaster ’57 is worth checking out.
First, there are four versions, all of which feature a 40.5mm stainless steel case with 49.6mm lug-to-lug and a 12.99mm total thickness. The dial layout features a date window at 6 o’clock and two counters rather than the classic three. The sub-dial at 9 o’clock is for the running seconds, while the counter at 3 o’clock is the chronograph recorder for the minutes and hours. Both sub-dials feature small alpha-shaped hands, while a central Broad Arrow handset indicates the main hours and minutes. Topping that off is a needle-shaped chronograph hand to indicate elapsed seconds.
Four dial variants
The first of the four models features a matte black sandwich dial with faux-patina details. Not only does this dial have vintage-inspired lume, but all the printing is also in the same beige color, including the numerals on the date disc. While many watch fans do not like this “artificially aged” look, I don’t mind it. I think that this black version is the one to go for thanks to all its attention to detail and sandwich dial.
But I know some of my Fratello colleagues disagree completely. Luckily, you can also have a dark green, blue, or burgundy dial with matching leather straps or a beautiful and comfortable bracelet. These three options are non-sandwich dials with black chapter rings around the main dial and sub-registers, applied rhodium-plated indices, and an applied Omega logo.
The beautiful manual-winding Omega 9906
If you turn the watch around, you are greeted by the modern caliber 9906. This manual-winding Master Chronometer chronograph movement operates at 28,800vph and offers 60 hours of power reserve. It replaced the automatic caliber 9300 in the Speedmaster ’57 line, making a smaller and slimmer case possible.
As a result, despite its atypical dial layout, this Speedmaster ’57 series feels a lot more like a classic Speedmaster. But just talking about these watches and seeing the images reminded us how great of a series this is. These beautifully detailed Speedmasters can be yours for €10,100 on a leather strap or €10,500 on the bracelet.
Image: The Watch Club
Speedmaster 60th Anniversary ref. 311.10.39.30.01.001
Our next pick is the much-praised Omega Speedmaster 60th Anniversary model from 2017. It was part of the famous trilogy of tributes to the first Speedmaster, Railmaster, and Seamaster 300. Out of the three models, the Speedmaster was the immediate favorite with fans. I happen to love all three watches, but the Railmaster has a special place in my heart. The modern (now-discontinued) Railmaster should have looked like that version rather than what Omega actually put out. But we’re here to talk about the Speedy! The 60th Anniversary edition was a remake of the CK2915 from 1957 and featured a 38.6mm stainless steel case with a 48mm lug-to-lug and 13.92mm total thickness.
Image: The Watch Club
The case is combined with a Hesalite crystal that protects the matte black dial with hour markers and hands that use vintage-inspired lume. The other markings on the dials and sub-dials and the small hands used for the counters are all white. A nice detail is the applied Omega logo and the old-school style of the Omega wordmark underneath. The watch came fitted with a modern bracelet that some deemed too thick. The clasp is also rather bulky, as Robert-Jan explained in a head-to-head with the Calibre 321. Especially with the work that Omega has put into creating amazing bracelets for its newer Speedmaster models, the bracelet of the 60th Anniversary edition is certainly less refined.
Image: The Watch Club
The 60th Anniversary model hasn’t come down in price
Inside the case, hidden behind the polished case back, you will find the Omega caliber 1861 that I mentioned before. This trusted movement remained in service for 24 years until the current caliber 3861 replaced it in January 2021. The Speedmaster 60th Anniversary was produced in two runs. The first 557 pieces were part of the special Trilogy box set, but Omega also produced 3,557 pieces that were sold as standalone models.
Image: The Watch Club
Back in 2017, the price of the watch was €6,600, which was considered quite steep compared to the price of the Moonwatch at that time. While it barely went up in price in the first few years, from 2020 on, we saw the secondary-market prices for this rise significantly. However, as with most watches nowadays, they have also come down again, just not by a lot. Currently, asking prices for the Speedmaster 60th Anniversary start at roughly €7K and increase quickly. Indeed, this is a rather popular modern reissue and a favorite of mine as well.
Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold ref. 311.50.39.30.01.001
Speaking of personal favorites, the final watch on our list is one you won’t forget once you’ve had it on your wrist. I remember vividly that Robert-Jan and I were the only ones in the office between Christmas 2021 and New Year’s 2022 when the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold was delivered. We were in for a treat because this is everything that makes a Speedmaster special and then some.
The watch marked the 65th anniversary of the Speedmaster and has the same case design as our previous entry, which came five years before. Therefore, the watch also measures 38.6mm wide, 48mm long, and 13.92mm thick. The main difference is that the case for this watch is made from Canopus Gold. On top of that, Grand Feu enameling is used for the tachymeter scale on the bezel.
The case is combined with a stunning multilayered black onyx step dial with Canopus Gold markers. As Robert-Jan explained, the dial is a work of art. It starts with a base plate made of black-coated brass, then three onyx sub-dials, and an onyx layer with three cutouts for the sub-dials on top. In addition, the watch features a black onyx outer ring for the track displaying minutes and chronograph seconds.
The branding is in the style of the first Speedmaster dials, including the oval-shaped “O” in “OMEGA.” That name and the “Speedmaster” designation are printed in silver, while the hour markers and hands are 18K white gold. The result is simply mesmerizing.
A stunning case back with the famous hippocampus
If you turn the watch around, you will be able to see the Omega’s modern reproduction of the vintage caliber 321 in all its beauty. It is safely hidden under the sapphire window of the case back, which features a laser-engraved image of the famous hippocampus. A brilliant detail is the eye of the mythological sea monster, which is a blue sapphire stone set into the crystal. The movement underneath is the same Sedna Gold-plated 321 caliber that powers the stainless steel version that opened this list. It contrasts beautifully with the soft white hue of the watch’s Canopus Gold case.
Seeing the images again immediately brought me back to the days when we had the watch in the office. For that short time, the watch made a lasting impression. The incredible execution of all the different details, the materials used, and the brilliance of the design are stunning. Add to those the heft of this Canopus Gold Speedmaster, and you will surely never forget a watch like this. I haven’t; I just needed a reminder of its brilliance.
But brilliance does come at a cost. The current price of the Speedmaster Calibre 321 in Canopus Gold is a whopping €101,200. What you get in return, though, is hard to put into words. You need to see and feel this watch to truly get an idea of why it is such a brilliant one. I was lucky enough to find out why, and it makes the watch the perfect closer for this list.
Final thoughts on our top five modern straight-lug Speedmaster models
There you have it — a list of five modern Speedmasters with straight-lug cases. As always, there are more options that we could have featured. Two that immediately come to mind are the Heritage Speedmaster CK2998 Limited Editions and the H10 Speedmaster Limited Edition that Omega and Hodinkee collaborated on. Of course, there’s also the 2024 version of the First Omega in Space. Where does this new Speedmaster FOiS fit in for you? Does it replace any of these five models on this list? Let us know the comments below, and we’ll see you next week for another list.
