Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Vacheron Constantin Models
Another Friday, another list! This week, we’ll start looking ahead to Watches and Wonders. With the world’s biggest watch fair approaching, it’s time to highlight brands celebrating different anniversaries. One of them is Vacheron Constantin, which is celebrating its 270th anniversary in 2025. As that long history is too extensive to sum up with a handful of watches, we’ve picked our five favorite modern Vacheron Constantin pieces. Admittedly, that doesn’t do the brand’s recent history justice either, but let’s consider it a glimpse of some of the remarkable timepieces released in the last two decades.
Before we jump in, allow me to quickly qualify this list. If you ask the Fratello writers to come up with their favorite modern Vacheron watches, it’s going to be a long list. On top of that, it will feature reissues of several of Vacheron’s great classics, not just the famous 222 that resurfaced in the last few years. Furthermore, opinions differ greatly about what the greatest Vacheron Constantin watches are. I don’t consider that an issue but, rather, a brilliant display of the horology house’s varied works. In its 270th anniversary year, we expect special things from VC during Watches and Wonders. But before we find out about this year’s novelties, it’s time to look back at some of the brand’s best releases of the last 20 years.
The top five modern Vacheron Constantin models: Historiques American 1921
Let’s kick this list off with a Fratello team favorite. When Vacheron Constantin decided to bring back its American a hundred years after its first release, the watch received heaps of praise. This recreation of a classic driver’s watch for the American market captures the magic of its vintage counterparts beautifully. Vacheron Constantin had released a modern take on this classic before, but it never did it as well as in 2021. Currently, the brand offers the Historiques American 1921 in a 36.5mm or 40mm white or rose gold case.
Additionally, there was a 100-piece limited-edition Historiques American 1921 Excellence Platine, which Robert-Jan reviewed. Ask him, Lex, or yours truly about that watch, and we’ll immediately crack a smile. The platinum 40mm case housing a beautiful textured dial adorned with platinum Breguet numerals was something else. All the different versions run on Vacheron Constantin’s hand-wound caliber 4400 AS, which is visible through the case back’s sapphire window. The beautiful movement carries the Hallmark of Geneva, is only 2.8mm thick, operates at 28,800vph, and offers 65 hours of power reserve.
Current and previous variants
While the watch is stunning to look at, the true magic is in wearing it. With its rotated dial, slim case, and beautiful presence, any version makes a lasting impression. As mentioned, the Historiques American 1921 is still part of Vacheron Constantin’s catalog. However, if you are looking to get one pre-owned, expect to see prices for the 2021 40mm pink gold version starting at roughly €25K. The 40mm white gold model tends to start at just less than €30K. Getting your hands on the much-loved platinum variant can be a waiting game because of the low production number. Additionally, expect prices far above its initial €51K retail price.
When searching for a pre-owned Historiques American 1921, you will also find versions released before 2021. The initial American 1921 first debuted in a 40mm size at the SIHH fair in 2009. In 2017, the brand added the mid-size 36.5mm version. Both watches are powered by the same movement as the current models. Prices for the earlier ones can be significantly lower, though. Expect to see them start just under €20K. Whether you go with an older or a newer version, the American 1921 is simply a fantastic watch.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Another defining timepiece in the modern Vacheron Constantin collection is the magnificent Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. The first version of this watch debuted with the unveiling of the revamped Overseas collection in 2016. The white gold model with a gray dial accompanied the equally brilliant Overseas Ultra-thin ref. 2000V powered by the legendary caliber 1120. This duo of watches was an absolute hit during the 2016 SIHH show. In 2018, Vacheron Constantin added a pink gold version on a strap with a silver dial. The year after, that same version was unveiled with a full-gold bracelet.
In 2020, VC released the blue-dial version in pink gold, which most watch fans adore. The combination of the beautiful dial color and pink gold case and bracelet looks super impressive. But if you prefer something a bit less flashy, the white gold version of that same watch is another great option. It debuted during Watches and Wonders 2021 and would be my pick. But, of course, it’s about more than just the dial color and the material. The case of the gold Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin measures 41.5mm in diameter and a nice 8.1mm thick. These dimensions give the watch a beautiful profile and make it a joy to wear.
One of the best modern perpetual calendars
To power this ultra-thin version of the Overseas Perpetual Calendar, Vacheron chose its caliber 1120 QPSQ. The movement is viewable through the case back’s sapphire window, and it measures just 4.05mm thick. This 36-jewel caliber also features a 22K gold rotor, operates at 19,800vph, and offers a 40-hour power reserve.
From the balanced dial with the calendar elements perfectly in sync to the slim case and wonderful finishing, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is easily one of the best modern Vacheron Constantin models. The list price of one of these watches is a whopping CHF 119,000. But if you go pre-owned, you could shave off a substantial amount of money. Asking prices start at roughly €75K and move up to the list price. What that sum will get you is one of the best modern perpetual calendar watches currently available.
Image: Woohoo Time
Vacheron Constantin 1972 Prestige
Our next pick is a watch with a story. First off, it fits the recent trend of shaped watches perfectly. The only thing is that Vacheron Constantin released this 1972 Prestige in 2013 as a reissue of an original watch from 1972. That was the year that France awarded the company with the Diplôme Prestige de la France, recognizing Vacheron Constantin’s exceptional skill, commitment to authenticity, technical excellence, and elegance. To celebrate that, the brand released the ref. 15207 “Prestige de la France” with a commemorative coat of arms engraved on the case back.
Image: Woohoo Time
This led to a full line of seven models named the 1972 collection. What they had in common was an ultra-thin, curved, asymmetrical case designed by applying the mathematics of the golden ratio. During the 1970s, the brand released multiple great variations of the original watch. Additionally, over time we have seen the 1972 collection change with less remarkable models.
Image: Woohoo Time
A great updated reissue
In 2013, Vacheron Constantin created a modern reissue of the first ref. 15207 named the 1972 Prestige (ref. 33172). The occasion was the opening of the brand’s boutique in Paris. For this celebratory event, VC created two versions in white gold. The asymmetrical cases of the two watches both measured 25mm wide, 47mm long, and just 8.62mm thick. As I already alluded to, the case was designed by using the famous golden ratio of 1.618. If you take the dimension of the longest side of the case and divide it by the length of the sapphire crystal on the opposite side, you will get the magical 1.618 as the outcome.
Image: Woohoo Time
With its updated dimensions, the 1972 Prestige was no longer a ladies’ watch, unlike its vintage counterparts. Vacheron Constantin released two variations. The first was a special 40-piece limited edition that combined the white gold case with a shiny silver dial featuring a chevron motif, white gold hands, and a black leather strap. The second and unlimited model featured a gray satin sunburst dial with a chevron motif, contrasted by 18K pink gold dauphine hands. This watch came with a brown leather strap, making it a bit warmer than the limited edition.
Image: Woohoo Time
The ultra-thin caliber 1003
Inside the case, Vacheron equipped the watches with its legendary ultra-thin caliber 1003. For decades, this was the thinnest manual-winding movement in the world, at just 1.64mm thick. Following three years of development, it debuted in 1955 to celebrate Vacheron’s 200th anniversary. It adds the perfect horological story to this stylish reissue of a Vacheron Constantin classic.
As with the original 1970s model, the movement hides behind the curved case back that features the same coats of arms. Finding one of the 1972 Prestige models from 2013 can be a challenge. You won’t see them very often, but when you do, expect to see prices starting at roughly €20K. As mentioned, though, because they are rare, prices will fluctuate for this cool timepiece that was released way ahead of its time.
Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes De Vache 1955
Vacheron Constantin has long been known as a brand that introduced many lug styles. One of the most outspoken and legendary is the Cornes de Vache lugs. These cow-horn-style lugs have become fan favorites and graced the case of one of the brand’s most famous historical chronographs. Ref. 6087 debuted in 1955, and Vacheron only produced 36 pieces of it, which makes it incredibly desirable for collectors. The Historiques Cornes De Vache 1955 is the modern reissue of that classic, and it made its debut in 2015.
The watch featured an updated 38.5mm platinum case with the characteristic lugs. Vacheron Constantin also chose one of the best-looking two-register dials that graced the different vintage variations of the ref. 6087. Inside the case, the brand equipped the reissue with its caliber 1142. This chronograph movement is based on the old Nouvelle-Lemania ébauche caliber 2310.
Besides redecorating the movement, Vacheron Constantin also modified it to suit modern standards. The brand’s watchmakers updated the operation frequency from 18,000vph to 21,600vph and added a free-sprung balance. On top of that, they completely redesigned the chronograph mechanism with adjusted shapes for the levers. Additionally, the column wheel proudly features the brand’s Maltese cross and offers 48 hours of power reserve. Lastly, the finishing is top-notch, resulting in a stunning chronograph caliber.
Two more versions
In 2016, the brand added a pink gold variant to the lineup. Finally, in 2019, Vacheron Constantin released one in stainless steel, much to the fans’ delight. Currently, the brand only offers the pink gold and stainless steel versions. But if you go pre-owned, you will be able to find all three, of course.
The remarkable thing is that the stainless steel version is not much more affordable than the pink gold version on the pre-owned market. Expect to see prices starting at roughly €27K–28K, whereas prices for the pink gold version start around €30K. In all honesty, that would direct me toward the stunning gold version of this reissue of the legendary classic.
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222
Can we create a list of the top Vacheron Constantin watches without putting the 222 on it? Nope! You probably all know the story of this Vacheron Constantin classic. First released in 1977 as the brand’s answer to the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, the Jorg Hysek-designed 222 perfectly fit the bill of the modern sports watch with an integrated bracelet. Over time, the design became an industry classic, but it wasn’t part of the brand’s collection for that long. As a result, the 222 was produced in low numbers, and collectors are willing to pay big prices for a vintage version.
In April 2022, Vacheron Constantin answered the many pleas for a return of the 222 with a full-gold model. The new Historiques 222 was met with massive praise and was probably the most talked-about watch of Watches and Wonders that year. Additionally, it was featured in many year-end lists, including mine, as the favorite release of 2022. But with that newly revived gold 222 also came the wish for the return of a stainless steel version.
The stainless steel version proudly returned in 2025
Fast-forward to this January when Vacheron Constantin started its 270th anniversary with a bang. The new stainless steel model showed the brilliance of Hysek’s design in a more subdued and humble way compared to the gold model. It immediately became one of my favorite recent releases, and it will probably be at the top of my list at the end of the year. The new version perfectly showed what makes Hysek’s design so great, from the smaller, almost modest 37mm case with its signature bezel to the straightforward but distinguished blue dial and the brilliant bracelet. Add the gold Maltese cross as a small but obvious callback to the brand’s roots, and you will end up with a brilliant reissue of that ’70s classic.
As most of you know, Vacheron equips the modern 222 with its in-house caliber 2455/2. The brand chose this slightly thicker (but still very thin) movement over the classic caliber 1121 that powered the original watches. The main reason is that the modern movement ups the beat rate to 28,800vph, making it more accurate. On top of that, the 2455/2 features a quick-set date mechanism for added practicality. While the movement might be a fraction thicker, it adds practical benefits without compromising the concept or looks.
More than a reissue of a classic
What we end up with is a wonderful modern version of the classic Vacheron Constantin 222. But to me, it’s more than just that. The watch also represents the style and class that I associate with the brand. It’s this refined feeling of self-assured modesty presented with an abundance of style and class. It’s a statement that I thoroughly enjoy and relate to, and it makes the Historiques 222 the perfect last pick for our list of the top five modern Vacheron Constantin watches.
Final thoughts on the top five modern Vacheron Constantin models
If you paid attention, you will have noticed that four of our five picks are reissues of Vacheron Constantin classics. That makes it seem as if the brand doesn’t have any great newer designs in its collection. That is certainly not true. Good examples of some we love are the Overseas Dual-Time “Everest” and the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. We could have added these to the list as well. However, what this list of five watches perfectly shows is the great historical depth and amazing variation in design and style that Vacheron Constantin offers. Add the great watchmaking tradition, immaculate finishing, and eye for detail, and you’ll understand why Vacheron Constantin is one of the leading luxury watch brands. We’re certainly looking forward to seeing what has been up its sleeve at Watches and Wonders in April!
What do you think of this list? Do you agree with our picks, or would you have chosen other watches? As always, please share your thoughts in the comments below.
