Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Zenith Models
Another Friday, another list! This week and next, I will be putting the spotlight on Zenith. To be a bit more specific, for this week, I picked my top five modern Zenith watches. Next week, I will put the spotlight on some of the brand’s best vintage models. These are somewhat self-indulgent lists because I love Zenith. The combination of great heritage and tradition, amazing watchmaking skills, and eye-catching design makes the brand stand out in today’s watch landscape. However, Zenith does not always pop into conversations where I think it should. That’s why I picked five watches I’d add to my collection that show what makes this watchmaker from Le Locle so great to me.
Before jumping into the list, I must admit that my heart generally gravitates toward Zenith’s Chronomaster collection. The Chronomaster lineup was built around modern versions of the great El Primero trio of watches released in 1969. But thanks to great design solutions and the use of contemporary materials and finishes, Zenith shows that it’s not a retro-focused collection. The Chronomaster lineup displays that the classic designs of the El Primero A384, A385, and A386 are as relevant as ever. While these don’t take anything away from the Defy Skyline and Defy Extreme, which I also love, it is all about the Chronomaster line for me. And I can explain why. The best way to do so is to present my five favorite picks, so let’s get started!
The top five modern Zenith watches — Chronomaster Sport Titanium
If you are a regular reader of Fratello, my first pick is probably not surprising. The titanium Zenith Chronomaster Sport was one of my favorite releases of last year. I had the pleasure of wearing the watch for a week for the review I wrote. As I explained in my story, the watch plays some clever mind games. I loved the monochromatic looks from the get-go. But you will be grossly mistaken if you pick the watch up and expect some substantial heft. This Chronomaster Sport is super lightweight, and if you are not a fan of that, it’s hard to fall in love with it. While I don’t mind titanium watches, the bracelet’s lightness and its rattly sounds didn’t immediately win me over.
But after wearing the watch for a week, I found myself completely smitten by it. The incredible looks, comfort, and brilliant movement make for an absolute winner. Let’s quickly go over some specs. The Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium has a 41mm Grade 5 titanium case that is 13.6mm thick and 46.8mm from lug to lug. It’s a well-proportioned case that looks nice in titanium. I had a chance to try it on the Grade 5 titanium bracelet, and the material’s hue is wonderful. It’s a little darker gray than most titanium watches we see, but it adds a bit of yellow to the overall hue, giving the color a nice warmth.
On-wrist magic
Inside the case is the El Primero 3600 column-wheel chronograph caliber. This brilliant movement has a little party trick up its sleeve as the central chronograph hand makes a full lap of the dial in 10 seconds. The caliber is a wonderful modern version of the first El Primero chronograph movement that Zenith introduced in 1969. As such, it is part of one of the best chronograph caliber lineages in modern-day watchmaking.
I might have been a little apprehensive when I started wearing the watch, but fairly quickly, it proved brilliant on the wrist. I already touched upon the comfort and the looks. But what I particularly loved were the incredible details that stand out when wearing the watch. The nickel-tone sunburst dial with anthracite, light gray, and silver sub-dials looks stunning and matches the titanium of the case and bracelet superbly.
Additionally, the faceted rhodium-plated hands and indexes look amazing with a black lacquer filling. They also feature an application of white Super-LumiNova for nighttime readability. These little details pop out every time and make the Chronomaster Sport Titanium so fun to wear, which is exactly what I want from a watch. Considering this, it’s easy to see why this modern Zenith model was an immediate first pick for this list.
Image: Ticking Time Homme
Zenith Chronomaster Original “Reverse Panda”
Next up is the Zenith Chronomaster Original, which is based on the classic El Primero A386. While it would make sense to pick the modern remake of the A386 with its white dial and colorful blue and gray sub-dials, I picked a different version. The moment the reverse-panda version of the Chronomaster Orginal was unveiled, it became my favorite. The watch has a commanding presence with its black dial and oversized and overlapping sub-dials. Add the three-row bracelet, which is a practical step forward from the classic Gay Frères ladder bracelet, and this is the perfect modern play on the iconic A386.
Image: Ticking Time Homme
The watch features a 38mm stainless steel case with a 12.6mm thickness, crystal included. I love the classic look of the case and its brilliant curvature, which makes the watch super comfortable on the wrist. One thing that the Zenith designers nailed back in the 1960s is the slim profile, especially considering the chronograph movement, which usually adds significantly to the thickness. The case pairs nicely with a black reverse-panda dial that is full of details.
A dial full of clever details
I love the two outer rings that hold the two chronograph scales with all their intricacies. Additionally, the applied markers are blackened and filled with vintage-tone lume to add an extra color to the mix. The same goes for the central hour and minute hands. They are white but filled with black and beige lume. Add the white central chronograph hand, and you will end up with a stylish and detailed handset that hovers over a wonderful dial.
Inside the case, you will find the same El Primero 3600 column-wheel chronograph caliber that also powers the Chronomaster Sport Titanium. Therefore, this Chronomaster Original also has the central chronograph hand traveling at high speed over the dial. It’s a joy to see in action on the wrist. Speaking of which, the case is one of the most comfortable to wear. Its curvature makes it super comfortable, and the substantial lugs give it character and wrist presence. Combine that with the beautiful dial, and I’ll gladly add this Chronomaster Original to my collection one day.
Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384
I could write a long article about why I adore the Zenith A384 so much. I have made it no secret that I would love to start a collection of A384 and related models. As I explained before, the A384 was the watch that sparked other classics, like the A385, A3817, and A3818 “Cover Girl” in the 1970s. On top of that, it was the inspiration for some fairly recent highlights, such as the Lupin The Third series, the reissues of the “Cover Girl” and the A3817, the Chronomaster Revival Shadow, and the Safari models. It is such a bold design statement that turns out to be the perfect canvas for creativity, and that is why I love it so much.
But that love had to grow. When I first saw the original A384 in the early 2000s, I thought the design was stuck in the 1970s. It seemed too defined by the period in which it was conceived. Over time, though, I slowly started warming up to it. The great love found its sparks with the introduction of the Chronomaster Revival A384 in 2019. Why not earlier? Well, vintage A384s tend not to age well. There is a certain discoloration that often doesn’t make them look very nice. So when I saw the crisp looks of the modern version, that’s when the design truly hit me and sparked this great love for the watch.
The tonneau-shaped case is as relevant as ever
The Chronomaser Revival A384 perfectly respects the blocky case’s original dimensions. This tonneau-shaped case measures 37mm in diameter, 12.6mm thick, and 47mm from lug to lug. Just look at the beautiful radially brushed finish of the case and how it becomes one of the defining elements of the watch’s presence. The case is matched with a panda dial with a black outer ring that holds the tachymeter scale.
And once again, the level of detail on the dial is extraordinary. I love how the tachymeter and seconds scales are right next to each other to create an intricate pattern of markers. The lume-filled applied hour indexes and red central chronograph hand are more details that help create a beautiful dial that combines perfectly with the contrasting case shape.
Image: Ticking Time Homme
The Chonomaster Revival A384 is powered by the El Primero 400 movement, which has a 50-hour power reserve. It’s the regular modern version of the legendary El Primero caliber that Zenith unveiled in 1969. Therefore, unlike the previous two watches, this version of the high-beat El Primero movement does not have the speedy central chronograph hand. While the 10-second central hand is an impressive technical feature, I prefer the relative calmness of the regular chronograph movement.
Image: Ticking Time Homme
The watch comes fitted with the famous ladder bracelet in good El Primero tradition. While I would also add a regular bracelet, like the one on the Chronomaster Original, for daily practicality, the A384 would not be the same without the Gay Frères-designed ladder bracelet. The Zenith Chronomaster Revival is my undisputed first pick of all the watches on this list.
Zenith Defy Revival A3648
It was hard to miss this Zenith Defy Revival A3648 when it debuted last year during Watches and Wonders. The bright orange-accented diver stands out a mile away compared to its peers. But if you are a Zenith fan, you know this design finds its roots in the late 1960s. The watch is practically an exact remake of the original watch from 1969. As such, the Defy Revival A3648 uses the same 37mm case diameter as the original. It puts this colorful statement in the right context because it’s not loud and big but loud and modest at the same time.
The watch is water resistant to 600 meters, just like its vintage counterpart. At the time, that depth rating was impressive. To achieve that, though, it is a pretty chunky slab of steel at 15.5mm thick. But remember that we are talking about a recreation of a very capable tool watch rather than a daily desk diver, so I am fine with that. The chunky, angular case is matched with a 14-sided unidirectional bezel with a bright orange sapphire insert with black markings. It matches the matte black dial and the orange minute track on its periphery nicely. I love how the black central portion of the dial offers a spot of tranquility in all the orange madness, and that’s why it works so well.
More than just a tool watch
Inside the case, Zenith uses its Elite 670 automatic movement, which has a decent 50-hour power reserve. It’s a perfectly reliable power train for this three-hand watch. Last but certainly not least is the stylish bracelet. While the A3648’s contemporaries all had the ladder bracelet, for this diver, Gay Frères created a beautiful three-row bracelet with rounded portions on the outer links. Thanks to the mix of brushed and polished finishes, it gets a little visual pizzazz that makes it more than just a tool watch.
Frankly, I never thought Zenith would bring this classic back. It’s such an over-the-top statement that it probably does not appeal to a large audience. Then again, the watch does show the design brilliance of the past, and that’s exactly why I love the brand so deeply. It makes this Zenith Defy Revival A3648 the perfect fourth pick for the list and the first non-Chronomaster pick on top of that.
Zenith Chronomaster Revival A3818 “Airweight Cover Girl”
Before you scroll down to the comments section to tell me that this Airweight Cover Girl is a sold-out limited edition, hear me out. I explained that this is a list of my favorite modern Zenith releases that I would chase to add to my collection. And I would chase this immediately if my budget allowed it. In my opinion, this is the perfect example of what makes Zenith’s creative team of Romain Marietta and Sébastien Gobert the best in the industry. These guys are not scared to create modern versions of the brand’s classic by reinterpreting the original.
While the stainless steel version of the A3818 “Cover Girl” that Zenith worked on with Revolution is also on my list of wants, this titanium version immediately intrigued me. It combines the classic looks of the El Primero A3818 from the 1970s with lightweight titanium, resulting in an exciting modern take on the original. But it’s not as obvious as, for example, the brilliant Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip” from 2021, which was a new and distinct take on the famous El Primero G383 from 1969. No, this is a watch for people in the know, and I love that about it.
Zenith’s first Grade 5 titanium ladder bracelet
Essentially, you get the same 37mm case of the A384 but executed in Grade 5 titanium. This case is combined with the characteristic vertically brushed “Cover Girl” dial with its luminescent shark-tooth tachymeter scale. It is a classic design that still looks amazing. The watch was fitted with a titanium ladder bracelet, which was a first for Zenith. The material makes the watch significantly lighter, bringing it down to 78.2 grams from the 110.6 grams of the steel version.
Inside the case, you will find the same El Primero 400 movement that I mentioned before. It is the perfect modern version of the classic El Primero to add to the overall mix of old and new. As mentioned, I would add the stainless steel reissue of the A3818 as well if given the choice. But this titanium version of the classic “Cover Girl” was a surprising twist on the classic A3818 that makes it the perfect last pick for this list of my favorite modern Zenith watches.
Final thoughts on the top five modern Zenith watches
There you have it — the list of my five favorite modern Zenith watches, consisting of four regular-production models and a little sneaky limited edition that I couldn’t keep off this list. However, as I already mentioned, Zenith has created so many great variations on the different Chronomaster models that it is hard to pick. I could easily add another five models to this list that I would also gladly add to my ideal Zenith collection. But let me turn the question over to you. What are some of your favorite modern Zenith models? Let me know in the comments, and we will be back with the second part of this Zenith special next week!
