Fratello’s Top 5 Most Significant Releases From Watches And Wonders 2025

Another Friday, another list! After a week without a Top 5, we are back with a new one. Watches and Wonders 2025 is over. Now that the dust clouds have settled, it’s time to talk about favorites and the best of the show. In our current Fratello Favorites series, you can read all about our writers’ highlights from the event. In this week’s Top 5, we will stick to the most significant watches based on horological developments and trends that we saw during the fair in Geneva. Let’s find out what they are!

Just to elaborate a bit on this list, it’s not a selection of favorites. This list is based on the relevance of the timepieces in a wider context. After a long week, we saw some amazing new technological innovations. On top of that, this year also revealed some undeniable trends that would indicate there is more where they came from. We combined these two aspects to come up with this list of five significant developments translated into the most relevant releases from Watches and Wonders 2025. Let’s get started!

The most significant releases from Watches and Wonders 2025: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller

One of the highlights of Watches and Wonders 2025 was undoubtedly the introduction of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller. It marked the debut of the first new non-dress Rolex product line since the unveiling of the Sky-Dweller in 2012. While you can debate the looks all day long, there is simply no denying the great relevance of the new product line in terms of watchmaking significance. The new Land-Dweller represents a huge technological step forward in terms of caliber production for the Genevan brand.

The new caliber 7135 is an impressive 5Hz high-beat movement fitted with the brand’s Dynapulse escapement. As Mike explained in his introduction article, it is a silicon sequential-distribution escapement with an antimagnetic ceramic balance staff that is precisely oiled before assembly into the movement. It features two distribution wheels that activate an impulse rocker, which connects with the oscillator. As a result, it reduces energy loss and friction compared to typical movements with a Swiss lever escapement. While the technology itself is already impressive, the ability to implement it on an industrial scale makes it even an more awe-inspiring development. This is because absolute precision is required on a production line producing massive quantities of watch components.

Will we see this caliber in more Rolex product lines?

While a new product line is already monumental for Rolex, the movement makes the introduction of the Land-Dweller so much more significant. It will be interesting to see the developments for the Land-Dweller line. The Genevan brand will undoubtedly have a plan in place for new Land-Dweller introductions. But will Rolex also bring the new caliber into its other product lines? Only time will tell, of course. We all know that Rolex must have a plan in place for that as well. We’ll just have to wait and see what happens. For now, the debut of this new caliber is groundbreaking, and it makes the Land-Dweller the immediate first pick for this Top 5.

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGB003

If our first pick was a no-brainer, the second was equally easy to make. Grand Seiko’s new Spring Drive caliber 9RB2 raises the stakes when it comes to timekeeping accuracy. The groundbreaking new movement boasts an impressive accuracy of ±20 seconds per year. Just let that sink in for a second.

Forget about daily accuracy altogether with this new Spring Drive movement. What Grand Seiko has created is the most accurate wristwatch caliber powered by a mainspring today. If that was not impressive enough, the brand’s team also managed to size down the caliber to 30mm in diameter and 5.02mm in thickness, opening the door to smaller Spring Drive watches, like this new SLGB003.

As I explained in my introduction article, Grand Seiko achieved this technical wizardry by developing a three-month-aged quartz oscillator and a newly designed integrated circuit. To ensure long-term accuracy, the frequency of each quartz oscillator is measured at several temperatures.

In the next step, Grand Seiko vacuum-seals the oscillator and sensor to protect them from external factors and minimize temperature differences. This guarantees precise temperature adjustments and the stable performance of the quartz oscillator. The regulation switch, which allows the watchmakers who will service your watch to correct the accuracy, is a very practical addition.

A new horological standard and equally brilliant watch

All in all, the movement is simply impressive. But Grand Seiko made it a complete package with the nicely sized 37mm × 11.4mm case. The brand’s high-intensity titanium for the case and the bracelet make the watch comfortably lightweight. But the materials don’t stop the watchmakers at Grand Seiko from finishing it immaculately and giving it a superb visual brilliance.

Add the newly designed clasp with a toolless micro-adjustment system, and we can conclude that this new Grand Seiko SLGB003 is truly the full package. Without a doubt, though, the most important aspect is the new Spring Drive caliber 9RB2, which has set an impressive new horological standard. That makes this SLGB003 an easy second pick for this list of the most significant releases from Watches and Wonders 2025.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication

While on the topic of impressive watches, this one was an obvious third pick for this list. The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication is jaw-droppingly magnificent. To give you a little look behind the Fratello scenes, we first received the press info on all the 270th-anniversary models for the Patrimony and Traditionnelle lines. While that is an extensive series of watches celebrating traditional watchmaking in style, to say we were blown away would be a lie. That was until Vacheron Constantin shared the info and images of this awe-inspiring Solaria. Just trying to wrap our heads around this incredible technical tour de force was nearly impossible.

The Solaria has broken the record for the world’s most complicated wristwatch. It features a mind-warping 41 complications squeezed into a 45mm × 14.99mm 18K white gold case. Just that fact alone is crazy. But the numbers get even more spectacular. As Henry explained, the new manufacture caliber 3655 has 1,521 components and 13 patent applications pending. Additionally, the movement operates at 21,600vph, has 204(!) jewels, and offers an impressive 72-hour power reserve. Those numbers are staggering, but the true impact is in the 41 complications and how they are integrated.

Vacheron Constantin’s Solaria — a truly stylish timepiece

As a design aficionado, I believe numbers like those mean nothing if the watch doesn’t look good. But the designers at Vacheron Constantin did an outstanding job of creating a watch that is easy to read — if you understand all its complications, of course. The folks at VC are masters at choosing how to display the information in a humble yet stylish and distinguished way. From experience, I can tell that just picking the typography and visual style for such a small object is an art form in itself. But that is just the beginning. As you can read in Henry’s article, a total of nine finishing techniques were applied to help enhance legibility.

Then, there is the clever combination of functions per sub-dial on the front of the watch. Just look at how cleanly the sub-dial at 12 integrates the functions of the Gregorian perpetual calendar and the two small indicators flanking it. This approach continues with the world-time functions displayed by the sub-dial at 3 o’clock. The idea is that one sub-dial displays all these functions. Considering how they usually end up defining the entire dial of a complicated watch, VC’s clean execution here demands respect.

A staggering 14 astronomical complications

If you have read about the watch already, you know the 14 astronomical complications steal the show. They are located on both the front and the back of the watch and will blow your mind. We won’t get into all their details in this article, of course. However, the complication that had most people talking was the temporal tracking of celestial objects via the watch’s split-seconds chronograph function. This allows you to calculate the time it takes for a constellation or specific star to appear in the sky in your location. At this point, the word “impressive” doesn’t do the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication justice anymore.

Overall, the new Solaria deserves every bit of respect it already demands by being the most complicated wristwatch ever created. However, the way the brand executed it is even more stunning. After unveiling the most complicated watch ever last year, the 63-complication Berkley Grand Complication with a Chinese perpetual calendar, this year, Vacheron Constantin stunned us once more with the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. If you ever have any questions about what makes Vacheron Constantin the absolute pinnacle in mechanical watchmaking, here is your answer.

Cartier Tank à Guichets

Our fourth pick for this Top 5 represents a wider trend that, in all honesty, we didn’t see coming. The jump-hour watch defines 2025, even though we’re only four months into the year. Indeed, the return of the Cartier Tank à Guichets was one of the highlights of Watches and Wonders 2025. Cartier reintroduced this classic from 1928 in proper style.

With three regular models in platinum, rose gold, and yellow gold and an additional platinum limited edition with a slightly different layout, the Cartier Tank à Guichets proved as relevant as ever. The fun thing is that the undisputed collective favorite of the Fratello team was the version in yellow gold, which looks stunning with its green leather strap.

There are many things to love about the way Cartier brought the watch back. Compared to the last version of the Tank à Guichets from 2005, the crown returned from the 3 o’clock position to its original location at 12. The case was also modeled after the original designs, without any additional grooves accentuating the Tank’s brancards.

The case measures a modest 24.8mm across, 37.6mm long, and only 6mm thick. As a result, it wears like a charm, although reading the time proved challenging for some. Apart from that, the new Cartier Tank à Guichets is the perfect Watches and Wonders 2025 release to exemplify the trend of jump-hour watches.

More jump-hour watches at Watches and Wonders 2025

Yes, the Cartier Tank à Guichets was not the only jump-hour watch we spotted during the fair. Another beautiful example was the Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Straw Marquetry Edition, which RJ put on his list of favorites from the show. One glance at the stunning combination of the 39mm rose gold case and beautiful green straw marquetry dial, and you know this is a special timepiece.

We also saw the Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition. This commemorative jump-hour watch was inspired by the original Maestro GC39 from 2005 and celebrates the 25th anniversary of the brand in style. These examples show that jump-hour watches are a trend this year, which is why they qualify as some of the most significant releases from Watches and Wonders 2025.

The 34mm A. Lange & Söhne 1815

A. Lange & Söhne’s new 34mm 1815 models are brilliant, and I considered putting them on my list of favorites. Unfortunately, a 34mm watch is too small for my wrist, which is why I didn’t in the end. However, these 1815s with a brand-new movement are a huge step forward for the German watchmaker. The smaller models add a certain refinement and charm to the brand’s catalog that many people instantly fell in love with.

This is thanks to the new caliber L152.1. This hand-winding movement offers an ample 72-hour power reserve. Additionally, it is meticulously finished and looks stunning. But even more importantly, this new movement allows for a 34mm case with a mere 6.4mm thickness.

That creates proportions that give the two models in pink and white gold an unmistakable charm. People usually associate this feeling of refinement with the brand’s Swiss competitors. It put the spotlight on the new Lange 1815 models, which immediately stood out despite their modest size.

However, the new smaller 1815 models are also part of a much broader trend. A significant number of brands released some amazing classic dress watches that did not go unnoticed. Usually, the highlights during Watches and Wonders are either sports watches or highly complicated watches. This year, though, it was slightly different.

More dress-watch goodness at Watches and Wonders

Some of the show’s most celebrated timepieces were beautiful and classic dress watches. Just think of the wonderful Patek Philippe 6196P. It marks the return of the Calatrava in a form that many fans know and love. As a result, it has ended up on many people’s lists of favorites.

Another great example is the duo of Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV models. While they cleverly add a date function to the sub-seconds display, both are examples of classy, refined dress watches that caught massive attention. One last mention is the choice that Jaeger-LeCoultre made to go all in with a string of Reverso models and nothing else.

Among these were the beautiful pink gold Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds and two Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds models, which were some of the highlights of Watches and Wonders 2025. It goes to show that dress watches were a thing this year, and we love them.

Final thoughts on the most significant releases from Watches and Wonders 2025

Of course, we saw other noteworthy technical developments and trends during Watches and Wonders 2025. Just think of the many beautiful brown dials, the stream of blue ceramic watches, and more. But with these picks for our list, we covered the developments we think are the most relevant for the watch world. What were your takeaways from this year’s Watches and Wonders? Let us know in the comments section, and we will see you next week for another Top 5!