Fratello’s Top 5 Reasonably Affordable Rolex Watches

Another Friday, another list! This week, we take another step into Rolex Wonderland. With all the price decreases on the secondhand market, some of the Rolex models you have had your eye on might have become more within reach. This week, we look at some reasonably affordable Rolex models. They could be the start of a bigger Rolex collection or the one Rolex you have always wanted. After doing some research, we were surprised to find that some great Rolexes are available for much less money than we had imagined. Let’s find out what some of these references are!

Before we get into the list, it’s good to explain how we approached the idea of affordability. Of course, when dealing with luxury watches, “affordable” is a relative term. Given that Rolex watches are always going to be expensive for most people, today, we mean “affordable in relation to other Rolex models.” We also didn’t just select the five most affordable Rolex references of all. Instead, we focused on surprisingly attainable references of some famous Rolex models. So don’t even expect to see five watches under €5K. Don’t get me wrong; that is a very valid list that we might make in the future. But for now, here is our list of the top five reasonably affordable Rolex references.

Rolex Explorer ref. 114270

Let’s start this list with a watch we weren’t necessarily surprised to feature. Still, the prices for the Rolex Explorer ref. 114270 are lower than they have been in a long time. Fratello’s Daan owns this specific Explorer reference. He explained in a lengthy article why he picked it over the ref. 14270. While both are great 36mm Explorers, the 114270 features solid end links and is powered by the upgraded caliber 3130. These are two very valid reasons to pick it over the ref. 14270.

Just as a reminder, the Explorer ref. 114270 debuted in 2001 and stayed in production until the 39mm Explorer ref. 214270 succeeded it. The case measures 36mm in diameter, slightly over 11mm thick, and 44mm long from lug to lug. Inside the case, the automatic caliber 3130 operates at 28,800vph and offers 48 hours of power reserve. In terms of design, the watch sports the classic Explorer looks with a black dial graced by the characteristic large 3, 6, and 9 numerals in white gold. It is a fantastic modern version of the classic that Rolex released in 1953.

The Rolex Explorer ref. 114270 is a great pick that can be yours starting around €5K. Finding a good one with a box and papers should be possible between €5K and €5.5K. You can also find some in great condition for less than €6K. It makes the ref. 114270 the perfect first pick for this list.

Rolex Datejust ref. 1601

This list would not be complete without a Datejust. There are plenty of available options, of course. After consulting with Thomas van Straaten, Fratello’s resident Datejust expert, we opted for the classic Datejust ref. 1601. This one celebrates the classic Datejust style with a pie-pan dial. Additionally, we always prefer the Datejust with a white gold fluted bezel and a Jubilee bracelet for the most elegant look. When it comes to picking a dial, a silver one is an often-seen option that perfectly completes this classic watch’s aesthetic.

The Datejust ref. 1601 debuted in 1959 and stayed in production until 1977 when the ref. 16104 took its place. While that reference has a quick-set date for additional practicality, it also got rid of the characteristic pie-pan dial. So if you want that classic Datejust look and don’t mind the lack of a quick-set function, the ref. 1601 is the one to go for. Rolex updated the movement from caliber 1565 to caliber 1575 in 1965. The new movement increased the beat rate from 18,000vph to 19,800vph and added hacking seconds.

The updated movement could be something to consider, but a different dial color could be too. As you will know, there are plenty of options out there. Finding a Rolex Datejust ref. 1601 is not hard. Finding one in good condition may require some work, though. Expect prices to start at roughly €3.5K and move up to €7K for one in good condition, potentially with box and papers. But you should be able to find one well under €5K, making it the perfect affordable pick.

Rolex Explorer II ref. 16570

Our next pick is another Explorer. The Rolex Explorer II ref. 16570 is a popular reference that has decreased significantly in price in the last few years. As most of you will know, it was the last Explorer II reference to feature a 40mm stainless steel case. After that, the brand switched to a 42mm case for the ref. 216570. That model is not only bigger but also has much bigger indices on the dial and bolder numerals on the bezel. On top of that, Rolex switched from a red to an orange 24-hour GMT hand. As you probably expected, we prefer the former. The ref. 16570 is another Fratello favorite. Thomas owns the black-dial version in the pictures, and Nacho has had his eye on the white-dial, “Polar” version for a while now.

The Explorer II ref. 16570 was produced from 1989 until 2011, so it had quite a long run. The watch has a 40mm stainless steel case that is 12.2mm thick and 47mm from lug to lug. Inside it, Rolex equipped the watch with its caliber 3185 until 2007. That’s when the brand introduced the updated caliber 3186, which solved the issue of 12-hour hand wobbling when setting the time. The updated caliber 3186 also added a modern Parachrom hairspring for increased antimagnetic properties and temperature resistance.

Prices for a Rolex Explorer II ref. 16570 start right around €6K and move up to €10K–12K for one in great condition. But you should easily be able to find an example in good condition for between €6K and €8K. If you ask us, that would be a great choice for the money.

Rolex Submariner ref. 14060(M)

Our fourth affordable Rolex pick is another classic. When it comes to picking an affordable Rolex Submariner, the ref. 14060 is a great option. It’s a great reference that came out in 1988 to replace the last version of the legendary ref. 5513. The 14060 was the first dateless Submariner with a Triplock crown and a sapphire crystal.

The case measures 40mm wide, 12.3mm thick, and 47.5mm from lug to lug. This was also the first no-date Submariner with a 300m depth rating. Rolex equipped this watch with its caliber 3000. The automatic movement operated at 28,800vph and offered 42 hours of power reserve.

Then, in 1999, Rolex updated the movement to caliber 3130, and the reference number changed to 14060M. The updated movement introduced a larger balance wheel and a full balance bridge. The 14060M stayed in production until 2012 when the 114060, featuring the Super Case with its wider lugs, replaced it. People love that the 14060(M) still had a classic Submariner look, an aluminum bezel insert, and a perfectly balanced dial.

We have written multiple articles on this specific Sub. Mike has owned one for well over a decade, and he wrote an article on why it is still his favorite. And Mike is not alone. We love the Submariner ref. 14060, which can be yours starting at roughly €7K. Prices move up to €11K–12K for one in great condition, but you should be able to find one for between €7K and €9K without any problems.

Image: Bulang & Sons

Rolex Air-King ref. 5500

Our last pick is the most affordable Rolex on this list. The Rolex Air-King ref. 5500 came out in 1957 and stayed in production until 1989. During that incredible production run, Rolex, of course, created multiple versions of the reference with updated dial designs, colors, and movements. This makes the history of the Air-King ref. 5500 certainly worth checking out. The ref. 5500 has a 34mm case that is 11.3mm thick and measures 40mm from lug to lug. The case was often paired with light-colored dials, although the watch was also available with blue and black dials.

A Rolex Explorer ref. 5500 – Image: Bulang & Sons

In the beginning, Rolex used old-style dials and Alpha hands. However, some years after the introduction, the brand updated the dials to the famous baton hands and stick indexes. Interestingly, in the late 1950s, the brand also introduced the ref. 5500 with an Explorer dial. The watches featured the famous 3-6-9 layout, essentially creating a smaller version of the actual Explorer ref. 6610 and ref. 1016, which were produced alongside the ref. 5500 Explorer.

Image: Bulang & Sons

But back to the Air-King ref. 5500. The brand equipped the watches with either caliber 1520 or 1530. Those housing the former often had the word “Precision” on the dial, whereas the latter mostly featured the words “Super Precision.” Funnily enough, caliber 1530 preceded caliber 1520 and was the more advanced movement. This is not something you would expect when looking at the reference numbers and the timeline of the two calibers.

Image: Bulang & Sons

Finding the right Air-King ref. 5500 may take some time. You must do some homework to ensure the watch is in the right condition. Luckily, plenty of options start at roughly €2.5K and move up €5K, making this Air-King a proper affordable Rolex.

Final thoughts on the top five reasonably affordable Rolex models

There you have it! Our list of five reasonably affordable Rolex models might not have any big surprises, but it is good to see what they go for now since prices have come down significantly. It seems like the right time to finally get your favorite Rolex. Out of the five options presented here, my favorite would be the Submariner ref. 14060. But as I have my eyes set on its bigger brother, the Sea-Dweller ref. 16600, I would probably pick the Explorer ref. 114270. I was surprised that prices start at less than €5K nowadays. What do you think? Will prices come down even further, or is this the moment to spend your money on your favorite Rolex? Let us know in the comments section, and we will see you next week for another list.