Fratello’s Top 5 Recent Watches With Green Dials — Including Patek Philippe, Laurent Ferrier, Rolex, And More
Another Friday, another Top 5! Last week, we focused on watches with salmon dials. We often see these types of dials in limited editions, but they have become very popular among watch fans. It begged the question of why more brands don’t create watches with salmon dials as part of their regular collections. This week, we move on to green dials. It seems like a small step that is a bit too easy, but it’s not without reason. We might have something cooking in the Fratello kitchen that comes in a certain shade of green… So keep an eye out for that in the upcoming days! In the meantime, we have picked our favorite currently available watches with green dials.
In the two decades that I have been seriously interested in watches, no other color has been labeled “the color of the year” as often as green. I love a good green dial, so as far as I’m concerned, we can never have enough of them. But for me, it has to be the right shade of green. Green also happens to be a difficult color to get right. I know from working in the graphic design industry that the right shade of green is always a topic of discussion. And with watches, it’s no different. With too much yellow, the dial might lose its crisp feel, but a lack of yellow might lead to a flat or lifeless dial. However, if done right, green dials can look absolutely wonderful. For this list, we have selected five of our favorites out of a ton of options.
Patek Philippe 5270P-014 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Let’s start with a bang. The platinum Patek Philippe 5270P-014 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph was one of the highlights of Patek’s releases at Watches and Wonders last year. And that year was a green-colored one for the Geneva brand as it also released the stunning 5205R Annual Calendar Moon Phases. While the latter has a more understated olive-green dial, the 5270P’s dial is a stunning lacquered green. But it’s not just that. The dial starts a deep green in the middle and slowly fades to black on the outer edges. It’s an absolute stunner. The gradient to black and the green lacquer make this a beautiful, lively dial that you will keep looking at constantly.
The 5270P is part of Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications collection. It features a 41mm platinum case that is 12.4mm thick. The diamond between the lugs at 6 o’clock will remind you of the “secret” of the case — its platinum construction. Patek fits the watch with a black alligator leather strap with green stitching to complete the platinum and green aesthetic. Lex described the overall look as “almost futuristic,” something we do not hear a lot when it comes to Patek. Turn the watch around, and you will get a great view of the stunning 456-part manually wound caliber CH 29‑535 PS Q. The Patek Philippe 5270P-014, with its US$218,820 price tag, is the right way to kick off this list.
Laurent Ferrier Square Micro-Rotor Evergreen
We’re staying in the world of Haute Horlogerie and, more specifically, in the world of Patek Philippe for our next pick of watches with green dials. Ferrier worked as the technical director of Patek Philippe for nearly 40 years, and the great thing about his creations is the almost effortless chic that they embody. Combining this with a beautiful Evergreen dial makes for one of the best timepieces in this category. The Laurent Ferrier Square Micro-Rotor Evergreen has a stainless steel 41mm cushion-shaped case that is 11.1mm thick and water resistant to 30 meters. The distinct shape of the case with the characteristic dial design and matching handset gives the watch its unique presence. A brown calf leather strap with Alcantara lining finishes the great look.
But the green dial elevates this presence to something that can only be described as soothing and super classy. The deep green color is the perfect shade, and it displays a vertical satin-brushed finish for an incredible overall look. The small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock features a very refined snailing that contrasts the vertical pattern of the dial nicely. This dial also provides the perfect backdrop for white gold indices and hands. Turn the watch around, and you’ll see the self-winding FBN 229.01 caliber, another element of sheer beauty that makes this a classy and refined potential grail watch at CHF 47,500.
Grand Seiko SLGH011 “Green Birch”
Most of you will definitely remember when the White Birch came out in 2021. And you are probably also aware that a Night Birch followed a little over a year later. But the Grand Seiko SLGH011 Green Birch is the Birch model that feels like the forgotten one. Reading Lex’s article and the comments underneath it again, I understand why. Back then, Grand Seiko was knocking out releases nearly every week, and in times like that, it gets hard to keep up with all the goodness inspired by Japanese nature. In the words of the brand, “The deep green dial expresses the white birch forest as seen in summer, surrounded by lush greenery amongst the white stalks.” It’s a picture that I connect with, just like the dial.
The watch features a 40mm stainless steel case measuring 11.7mm thick and 47mm from lug to lug. Inside the case, Grand Seiko equips the watch with its Hi-Beat caliber 9SA5, which is visible through the sapphire window on the case back. When it comes to the different Birch models, this is my favorite. While the White Birch might take after the trees it was nicknamed after and the black one is the popular choice, the green-dial version adds a level of sophistication that I love. The shade of green has hints of blue in the sunlight and a nice deeper tone in darker conditions. At €10,000, this is a modern daily wearer with a green dial that is so satisfying.
Rolex Day-Date 40 ref. 228238
This list would not be complete without a Rolex. The brand is famous for creating some of the most special watch dials in history. In the current collection, the 40mm Day-Date in yellow gold with a green lacquered dial is one of the standout pieces. The dial reminds me of the illustrious Stella dials and is a work of art. Each dial requires six thin layers of enamel, and after that, the dial is polished to intensify the beautiful green color. As it is such a time-consuming dial to create, Rolex makes only a few of these watches compared to other Day-Date models. Consequently, it has become a much sought-after version of the Day-Date.
The 18K yellow gold case, hands, and indices work very well with the green backdrop, creating a chic overall presence that I adore. The case is 40mm in diameter, 12mm thick, and 47mm from lug to lug. As such, it is a very wearable watch that will shine brightly on your wrist because of its colors. Inside, Rolex equips the Day-Date 40 with its caliber 3255, boasting an accuracy of ±2 sec per day and a 70-hour power reserve. While those are impressive numbers, the true star of the show is the green lacquered dial. At €38,500, this is a grand green-dialed statement.
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green
Choices, choices…
I could have picked a few H. Moser & Cie. watches for this last spot. The brand is well known for creating some of the best dials in the industry. Indeed, H. Moser showed a mighty impressive green dial with the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green. Its hammered dial is smoothed with Grand Feu enamel, and the results are nothing short of stunning. The dial has a gradient that changes from a vibrant green in the center to a dark black color on the periphery. To make the dial the star of the show, there is no distortion in the form of logos or other text. At CHF 25,000, this watch has one of the most impressive green dials out there.
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Boutique Edition
Another watch that comes to mind is the brand’s brilliant Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green, which has been sold out for a while now. But only recently, the brand introduced a red gold Boutique Edition of the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph. This is the third Flyback Chronograph variant that we’ve seen since the Streamliner collection began with it in 2020. H. Moser & Cie. employs the Matrix Green dial of the Centre Seconds model for this special edition. It’s a beautiful fumé dial with a sunburst pattern that is graced by the gilded hour and minute hands with Globolight inserts. The 42.3mm case is 14.2mm thick and is fitted with a black rubber strap. That last element is a first for the Streamliner, and it shows the versatility of the design. Inside the case, you will find the stunning automatic chronograph caliber HMC 907 with a 72-hour power reserve. At CHF 60,000, this Streamliner Flyback Chronograph closes out the list in style.
Final thoughts on the best recent watches with green dials
There you have it — five watches from 2022 and 2023 with beautiful green dials. What are your thoughts on these choices? Would you have picked the same five models? And what is your favorite recent green-dial timepiece? Let us know what you think in the comments section, and we will see you next week for another Top 5 list. Oh, and keep an eye out for some green goodness coming your way soon from us here at Fratello!
Featured image: The Watch Club
