Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex “Pre-Icon” Models
Another Friday, another list! After last week’s Patek Philippe Nautilus list, it’s time to move on to Rolex. This week, we jump into the world of the vintage models that came before the iconic watches we know today. Some have the same cases and dials with one simple difference: the famous names we know today were not printed on the dials. Others, however, are notably different watches that preceded the famous Rolex icons that would follow. It’s time to discover more about these Rolex “pre-icon” models.
Before we get into our list, it’s important to clarify that some of the watches featured here are indeed considered part of the lineage of Rolex’s most famous watches. As mentioned, the simple absence of the name on the dial can be reason enough to feature a watch on this list, so please remember that we use the “pre-icon” term lightly. As we’ll see, most of these watches sell for high prices because Rolex fans place great value on anomalies, and the market reflects that. But you will see that some of them are among the best watches that Rolex has ever created. So, without further ado, let’s jump in.
Image: A Collected Man
Rolex (Pre-)Explorer ref. 6150
Let’s kick this list off with the Rolex ref. 6150, which was produced in 1952 and 1953 and is also known as the “Pre-Explorer.” Interestingly, Rolex produced this reference alongside the first Explorer ref. 6350. The latter featured the “Explorer” text on the dial, but the former did not. But it is indeed a very similar watch. It features the same 35.5mm case with the instantly recognizable black 3-6-9 dial that we now call the “Explorer dial.” In terms of readability, Rolex hit the nail on the head with this one.
Image: A Collected Man
But the dial of the ref. 6150 is different from that of the first Explorer. The dial of the Pre-Explorer features the wording “Rolex Oyster Perpetual” on the upper half and “Precision” on the lower half. The dial of the first Explorer ref. 6350 featured “Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer” on the upper half and “Officially Certified Chronometer” on the lower half. Besides the different dials, the movement is the other main difference between the two references.
Image: A Collected Man
The same movement but not a certified chronometer
Inside the case of the ref. 6150, you will find the self-winding caliber A296, which also powers the ref. 6350. The main difference is that Rolex fine-tuned the movements of the ref. 6350 to allow them to meet the chronometer certification standards. As you will understand, this explains the text on the lower half of the first Explorer’s dial. However, if you know your Explorer history, you’ll know that not all dials of the Pre-Explorer lack the “Explorer” designation. There are ref. 6150s that have it, but they are very uncommon.
Image: A Collected Man
As you will expect, any of these references and variations are rare. And “rare” in the Rolex universe means “expensive.” Expect to see asking prices for a Pre-Explorer 6150 start at roughly €35K and move up to €75K for pieces in good condition. Examples in great condition or ones with a special story can be found at auction and easily fetch even more. That’s no surprise because the first Explorers take you back to the exciting days right after Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay had summited Mt. Everest.
Image: Tempus
Rolex Submariner ref. 6200
It’s only a small step to our second pick, the Rolex Submariner ref. 6200. Enthusiasts will understand why immediately. The Rolex Submariner ref. 6200 is the famous “King Sub” that features an Explorer dial with the same 3-6-9 layout as the first watch on our list.
Image: Tempus
The reason this reference is nicknamed the “King Sub” is because it was the first Submariner with the 8mm “big crown” with the “Brevet” signature. Other Submariners with this oversized crown were the ref. 6538 that Sean Connery wore as James Bond and the ref. 5510. It goes without saying that these watches are tremendously popular with collectors.
Image: Tempus
The ref. 6200 came with two dial variations. The first features just the Rolex logo, brand name, and “Oyster Perpetual” on the upper half of the dial. However, the second does feature the Submariner name on the lower half of the dial. Rolex produced the ref. 6200 from 1955 to 1956, and the watch featured a slightly thicker 38mm case than its predecessors.
Image: Tempus
Combining the case and the crown resulted in a 200m depth rating. Inside the case, Rolex equipped the watch with its caliber A296, which also powered the Pre-Explorer we just looked at. The look was completed with a famous riveted Oyster bracelet, making this a true classic. Rolex produced a total of 303 pieces of the ref. 6200, which makes it one of the rarest Rolex Submariners out there.
Image: Phillips
Rolex Submariner ref. 6205
Our next pick is another Submariner reference. The 6205 came out in 1954, and the early dials did not feature the “Submariner” text on them. The watch was in production for only a year, and during that time, Rolex made 810 examples of this reference. Keeping that in mind, you will understand that the number of 6205s with “Submariner-less” dials is quite low.
Image: Phillips
The watch had a 38mm stainless steel case with a small crown and was water resistant to 100 meters. This reference is one of the so-called “Small Crown Submariners,” and it housed Rolex’s caliber A260. The movement is generally considered an upgrade from the A296 that powered the ref. 6200. The first 6205s had pencil hands, like the example in these pictures, while the later 6205s featured Mercedes hands. However, most of the dials without the “Submariner” text are combined with the former.
Image: Phillips
Nowadays, the Rolex Submariner ref. 6205 is mostly found at auctions and sells for huge sums of money. Most go for anywhere between €100K and €200K, while some examples in pristine condition go for even more. While the Rolex ref. 6204 is known as the first Submariner, the ref. 6205 without “Submariner” on the dial is the rarer and more sought-after watch.
Image: Phillips
Rolex “Pre-Daytona” ref. 6238
The next watch is my favorite one on this list. It’s even one of my top three vintage Rolex watches overall, sitting alongside the Explorer II ref. 1655 and the GMT-Master ref. 1675. Two years ago, I wrote a love letter about the Rolex Chronograph ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona.” In it, I detailed why I love the watch so much. The style, the legendary movement, and the different versions Rolex produced make for a brilliant watch. On top of that, it’s the only watch on this list that strictly qualifies as a pre-icon because it was the predecessor of the iconic Daytona.
Image: Phillips
The watch was produced from 1962 until 1968 and led to the introduction of the Daytona ref. 6239. Having said that, there was an overlap in production with the Daytona, which debuted in 1963. However, there is a clear reason people refer to it as the “Pre-Daytona.” Simply, it bridged the gap in style between the old-school Rolex chronographs from the 1950s and the more modern style of the Daytona. The ref. 6238 had a 36mm case with a smooth bezel and the tachymeter scale printed on the dial.
Image: Phillips
The “Pre-Daytona” ref. 6238 bridged the gap
Over the six years that the 6238 was in production, Rolex supposedly made 3,500 pieces in stainless steel. Additionally, the brand produced a small number in yellow gold and rose gold. Where it gets a little more complicated is the number of dial variations. Rolex released no fewer than 14 executions. The steel models came with silver, gray, and black dials, each with a distinct vibe. My favorites are the gray- and black-dial versions, but they are also the hardest to find. The silver-dial version is by far the easiest to track down.
Image: Phillips
Rolex first equipped these watches with the legendary Valjoux 72. Later versions, however, housed the updated Valjoux 722. The iconic chronograph movement also powered the famous Daytona that followed and chronographs from Breitling, Heuer, Longines, Gallet, and Universal Genève.
Image: Analog:Shift
If you ask me, this is the best chronograph that Rolex ever created. While it is nicknamed the “Pre-Daytona,” I prefer it over any vintage Daytona. Regarding asking prices, expect them to start at €35K and increase to €200K for a steel version with a black dial or one of the gold models. It’s a lot of money, but that will get you a legendary watch.
Image: Wind Vintage
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 6239
Talk about legendary watches! Our last pick is the first-generation Daytona ref. 6239 that followed the “Pre-Daytona” I just talked about. Rolex connoisseurs will know that multiple Daytona references feature dials without the Daytona name. But it only makes sense that we pick the first reference. If you mention the ref. 6239 to watch fans, most people will immediately think of the “Paul Newman” models. But before the Exotic dials came out, Rolex introduced the regular versions without the “Daytona” text. The reason is simple: the name came resulted from Rolex sponsoring the 24 Hours of the Daytona. However, that partnership only started after the introduction of the ref. 6239.
Image: Wind Vintage
The watch featured a 37mm stainless steel case with a steel tachymeter bezel and pump-style pushers. Rolex introduced the watch with a black dial with silver sub-dials, a white dial with black sub-dials, and a silver dial with black sub-dials. Early versions of these, of course, lacked the “Daytona” text. To be perfectly honest, I always thought placing the model name above the register at 6 o’clock was not the best choice.
Image: Wind Vintage
Proof of that came in the form of dials that have “Daytona” on the upper half, underneath “Cosmograph.” Dials without “Daytona” on them look super clean, and they nicely link the watch to the Pre-Daytona ref. 6238.
Image: Wind Vintage
A legend for a reason
Inside the case, you will find the Valjoux caliber 722. This manual-winding column-wheel chronograph operated at 18,000vph and had 17 jewels and a 48-hour power reserve. As mentioned, it is a legendary movement found in many cult-classic watches. But to a more general audience, it is the famous caliber that powered the manual-winding Daytonas.
Image: Wind Vintage
The first-generation Daytona is one of the industry’s icons, and you will see that reflected in the prices. As you would expect, the non-Exotic-dial versions are more “affordable,” with asking prices ranging between roughly €50K and €125K. That price range will hold versions with and without “Daytona” on the dial. I prefer these or, even better, one with the “Daytona” text on the upper half of the dial.
Image: Phillips
Final thoughts on the list of top five Rolex “pre-icon” models
There you have it — our list of the top five Rolex watches that do not physically bear the famous names we know today. As always, this list could have been longer as multiple references do not feature the model names on their dials. Some more examples are the Daytona ref. 6264 and ref. 6265. Additionally, there is an interesting story behind the Rolex ref. 5500, which is known as an Air-King. However, that’s not where it ends because we also know there are versions with a 3-6-9 dial that are essentially smaller-sized Explorers. But that’s enough for today, and now I’ll ask you: which of these five watches is your favorite? Let us know in the comments section, and we will see you next week for another list.
