Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Vintage Rolex Watches
Another Friday, another list! After last week’s list of GPHG winners, we return to the universe of vintage Rolex. Why? As we were browsing for entries for previous lists, we stumbled upon some amazing Rolex watches that you rarely see. This list, therefore, praises some of the Genevan brand’s less highlighted watches from the past. But just because they’re not as common doesn’t make them less interesting. So let’s check out these five brilliant Rolex watches that fly under the radar.
Does such a thing as an under-the-radar Rolex even still exist? It’s becoming a rare breed. However, it also depends on how deeply invested in the brand you are. If you’re not, then this list will surprise you more than if you are a die-hard Rolex fan. Either way, we think the watches on this list are great finds among the most familiar models and references. These will never be the most sought-after models, nor will they ever become super popular. But if you like your Rolex to be a bit different, why not learn more about these references? All right, that’s enough talking. Let’s discover the five watches that made our list this week.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 5500
We’ll start this list with an absolute knockout! Most people will know the 5500 as a famous Air-King reference, and I covered it as one of our affordable Rolex picks two weeks ago. However, Rolex produced multiple Air-King and non-Air-King versions of the same watch. Especially popular with collectors are the Explorer-dial versions of the ref. 5500. While most of them come in steel, there are versions in 18K, 14K, and even 9K yellow gold.
Image: Bulang & Sons
The watch you see in these pictures has a 34mm 14K gold case combined with a beautiful silver dial featuring a diamond-like texture. The version in the pictures does not have the Air-King name on the dial, but some others do. I prefer the former, as it helps keep the dial cleaner.
Image: Bulang & Sons
A style that is still relevant today
Although the watches were produced in the 1960s, the Explorer-style dial looks as relevant as ever. Just look at the style of the 3, 6, and 9, which haven’t aged a day. Combined with the remaining classic arrowhead hour markers, it creates a nice aesthetic. Finishing the look is an old-school riveted Oyster bracelet that only adds to the charm. Inside the case, Rolex equipped the ref. 5500 with its caliber 1530, although later models were powered by the follow-up caliber 1520.
Image: Bulang & Sons
This special Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 5500 in gold with a 3-6-9 dial is something truly special that you won’t see often. Remarkably enough, these full-gold watches aren’t as expensive as you might expect. The watch pictured here is currently for sale for €16,900. Of course, that is a huge amount of money. But put it into the context of the watch’s full-gold construction and rarity, the price isn’t as steep as the actual number might suggest.
Image: The Watch Club
Rolex Cellini refs. 50509, 50505, and 50535
For our next pick, we cheated by picking more than one reference. Not only that, but these watches are also not vintage; they just look like they could be. Get the torches and pitchforks out if you want, but perhaps these underappreciated Cellinis can help you forgive us. The first is white gold Rolex Cellini ref. 50509 because it is the perfect under-the-radar Cellini model. This reference was part of the Cellini collection that preceded the current Rolex 1908 line. While we love the 1908 models, the discontinued Cellini collection has some amazing watches that you can buy for good prices. The Cellini Time, Dual-Time, and Moonphase models are great options, and even the Cellini Date, with its large date dial at 3 o’clock, has its charm.
Image: Giabao
Our favorite model out of all of them is the Cellini Time ref. 50505 in Everose gold with a pink dial. That model has a vintage charm that is impressive and makes for a perfect stylish dress watch. This Cellini series debuted in 2014 and stayed in the collection until 2023 when the 1908 took its place. These Cellini models all featured a 39mm case that was available in white gold, yellow gold, or Everose gold.
Image: The Watch Club
The case featured a fluted and domed bezel, and all the models were powered by modern 3100-series calibers. The Cellini Moonphase ref. 50535 didn’t come out until 2017 and featured a decorated moonphase indicator and a pointer date. Along with the Everose Cellini Time I just mentioned, it is among our absolute favorites.
Image: The Watch Club
Not hot sellers but still beautiful
While the last Cellini line was not a great commercial success, it’s no secret that most people who want a Rolex these days aren’t looking for a dress watch like these. But that doesn’t mean that these Cellini models do not tell the historical Rolex story in a classic and classy way. The retro styling combined with modern, reliable Rolex calibers certainly makes it worth checking out the series.
We quickly checked some of the current asking prices and found that you can get a white gold Cellini Time ref. 50509 for less than €10K. The Everose ref. 50505 with the pink dial is the most popular, and you can find it for around €15K. The Cellini Moonphase ref. 50535 will set you back roughly €20K–25K for what we think is a stunning watch. My favorite is the Everose model with the pink dial. It has a vintage vibe that you don’t see often, and it would be my pick over several more traditional dress watches.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Rolex Datejust ref. 16018
When we think of a full-gold vintage Rolex, most of us immediately envision a Day-Date. But would you ever consider a full-gold Datejust? We definitely would, but most people will associate the Datejust name with the stainless steel and two-tone models. Just as an aside, prices for stainless steel Datejusts have come down significantly, which makes now a great time to buy one. But if you want something a bit flashier and more special, consider this Datejust ref. 16018. The ref. 160xx series was produced from 1977 until 1988 and introduced an updated movement compared to the previous four-digit Datejust references.
Image: Bulang & Sons
The new caliber 3035 introduced the quick-set date function, which is very practical. Rolex did get rid of the pie-pan dials with this generation’s Datejust models, but what stayed was the 36mm case with the acrylic crystal, the characteristic Cyclops lens, and the tritium lume. A configuration of a yellow gold case with a matching gold Jubilee bracelet and a glossy dial is my absolute favorite.
Image: Bulang & Sons
A striking contrast between the dial and the case
The contrast between the black and the gold is stunning and gives the watch a ton of wrist presence. While the Day-Date may be the go-to gold Rolex, the Datejust looks no less impressive in a full-gold outfit. Prices for the gold ref. 16018 start at roughly €8K for an example on a leather strap. If you want the bracelet, as I would undoubtedly choose, expect to see prices start at roughly €13K and move up to €25K for rarer variants.
Image: Bulang & Sons
While the same budget will also get you a Day-Date ref. 18038, sometimes the odd choice is a good one. In this case, we would say that both are great options. If the day display is not important to you and you care more about the clean Datejust dial, the gold ref. 16018 could be the perfect choice. It’s one that some of us would certainly consider, which is why it is on our list.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Rolex Cellini ref. 4105
Another vintage Rolex that we love is the Cellini ref. 4105. Granted, this 1970s Cellini looks a bit like the famous Cartier Tank, but that is part of what gives the watch its charm. On top of that, Rolex designed some standout dials for it. The specific model in the pictures has a beautiful tapestry dial that helps make it a super stylish dress watch. But Rolex also created more conventional dials for the Cellini ref. 4105. Other options included a silver dial with Roman numerals and a gold dial with Roman numerals.
Image: Bulang & Sons
The brand also created the ref. 4103, which was essentially the same watch but in a smaller size. The ref. 4105’s yellow gold case was 34mm long and 25mm wide, while the smaller ref. 4103 measured a slightly more humble 30mm long and 23mm wide. This makes the 4105 the one to go for in our opinion.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Inside the gold case, Rolex used its manual-winding caliber 1601. This two-hander indicates hours and minutes, operates at 19,800vph, and offers 48 hours of power reserve. The super slim round movement also allowed the watch to be only 6mm thick. This makes the Rolex 4105 a perfect pick if you are looking for a chic, traditional dress watch.
Image: Bulang & Sons
The perfect affordable gold Rolex
Prices for the Cellini ref. 4105 with the Roman-numeral dials range from roughly €2.5K to €6K. The versions with the black tapestry dials, when available, tend to be slightly more expensive at between €4K and €6K. Still, no matter which version you choose, that’s a heck of a deal for a gold vintage Rolex dress watch like this.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 6108 “Semi-Bubbleback”
We’ll close out this list with a proper vintage Rolex. This Oyster Perpetual dates back to the early 1950s when Rolex was transitioning into the brand that most people know today. The brand slowly moved away from the classic “Bubbleback” case construction to the Oyster case as we know it today. This “Semi-Bubbleback” you see in the pictures is a transitional model from this period.
Image: Bulang & Sons
The watch features a 34mm case with a 12.5mm total thickness, making it easy to wear. The case is combined with an absolutely stunning cream-colored dial that started life as white but took on a super nice patina over the years. The dial design of this 1952 model, which predates the Explorer, features the famous 3-6-9 design that immediately gives it relevance in the Rolex universe.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Look at how the numerals are combined with arrowhead markers and small radium lume plots. It’s a clever design trick that I adore. The alpha hands complete the dial’s vintage look perfectly. But this was not the only dial design for the ref. 6108. You can also find versions with a full set of arrowhead markers. We definitely prefer this 3-6-9 dial, though.
Image: Bulang & Sons
A great vintage Rolex for a friendly price
The watch came on a riveted Oyster bracelet, adding even more charm. This Oyster Perpetual 6108 is truly a wonderful display of the true vintage Rolex style with hints of what would come after the design of the brand’s famous sports models, like the Explorer and Submariner. Inside the case, Rolex used its self-winding caliber 645. Because this movement was slimmer than its predecessors, Rolex could move toward less drastically domed case backs, essentially creating thinner cases.
Image: Bulang & Sons
The thinner case with the attractive overall design makes for a brilliant early 1950s Rolex. You may be surprised to hear that you can get one between roughly €4.5K and €6.5K depending on the dial and the condition. That will buy you an indisputably classic piece of Rolex history.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Final thoughts
There you have it — our list of five surprising (mostly) vintage Rolex models. These are not the most obvious picks in a long list of possibilities. We hope that you like them as much as we do. I happen to adore our first pick, the ref. 5500, and our last pick, the ref. 6108. They are such great classic Rolex silhouettes that are so clearly connected with roughly 25 years between them. It gives you a good idea of the consistency in design that Rolex has always strived for and that has become the brand’s biggest reason for success. But what do you think? Which of these picks is your favorite? Let us know in the comments section, and we will see you next week for another list!
