Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Watches Of 2024 — Featuring Rolex, Patek Philippe, IWC, And More
Another Friday, another Top 5! It’s December, so we are rapidly approaching the year’s end. Like every year, we will be looking back at some of our favorite watches. This first list is a summary of some of the surprising releases of the last 12 months. And by “surprising,” we don’t just mean stellar surprises. It’s a list of watches that evoked surprised reactions for various reasons. Don’t worry; all will become clear once you start going through the list.
About six months ago, we created a list of the most surprising watches of the first half of the year. You will find some familiar entries in this list if you read that article. In all fairness, though, the second half of 2024 had more surprising releases in store. It’s the perfect proof of the many remarkable things that we have seen over the past 12 months. In the upcoming weeks, we won’t just be looking back at 2024 in this recurring series, but the Fratello writers will also present their list of favorites in a new series of articles. So keep an eye out for an extensive look back at a busy year in watches. Our first stop is the five most surprising releases of 2024. Let’s jump in!
Patek Philippe Cubitus
I bet you didn’t see this watch coming. When the first images of the new Patek Philippe Cubitus surfaced in October, just like many of you, we were puzzled. Could it be real? As we know now, it was very real indeed. As Mike explained, the Cubitus is the first new product line from Patek in 25 years, and many fans were as surprised as we were.
With a squarish case that seemed unnecessarily large, a design that borrows heavily from the popular Nautilus, an existing movement for the time-and-date models, and a debatable dial design for the Cubitus Grand Date, there were a lot of surprises and even more questions.
An interview that Patek Philippe President Thierry Stern did with Swiss magazine Bilanz also didn’t help to create more support for the new introductions. As the cherry on top, the new Cubitus commercial wasn’t met with much praise from fans or (especially) critics. Here we are, almost two months later, and the initial emotions have settled. The Cubitus is a part of the Patek Philippe catalog, and the first celebrities have been spotted wearing the various versions while the prices on Chrono24 have shot up to ridiculous levels. While we certainly won’t deny that the Cubitus will be a commercial success, there is still much to say about the three versions themselves.
An ongoing exploration of the story of the Cubitus
Lex voiced his opinion about the Cubitus in an episode of Fratello Talks that reflected the central questions and issues that we, along with many of our readers, had. Not long after, Lex also had a chance to see the watches in the metal and get some answers to his questions from Patek Philippe. So keep an eye out for that story, which we will publish this coming Monday.
It creates context and will illuminate the thoughts behind the most talked-about watch introduction of 2024. Whether you adore or despise the watches, the Patek Philippe Cubitus line is, without a doubt, the most surprising release of 2024.
Rolex Deepsea ref. 136638LB
Because the Cubitus caused an absolute hurricane of reactions, we almost forgot about one of the most surprising watches of the first half of the year. With the new full-gold Rolex Deepsea ref. 136638LB, Rolex unveiled a 320g blingy beast of the deep. Seeing this extravagant version of the brand’s most hardcore dive watch was surprising and raised the question of why the Rolex bigwigs would release such a watch. As in most cases with a new divisive Rolex model, the answer is likely “because they can.” The new Deepsea was the most discussed watch of Watches and Wonders this year because it is over the top in every way.
The watch boasts a 44mm yellow gold case with a 17.7mm thickness, a 51.8mm length, and a 22mm lug spacing. Despite its blingy presence, though, the watch does not compromise on its specs. The Deepsea has a depth rating of a whopping 3,990 meters (12,800 feet) and features a helium escape valve. The gold case matches a blue ceramic bezel insert with gold markings and a matching blue dial.
It comes fitted with an impressive full-gold Oyster bracelet to complete the look of this chunky heavyweight. Inside the case, there are also no compromises. Rolex uses its in-house automatic caliber 3235, which offers 70 hours of power reserve and an accuracy of ±2 seconds per day.
Would you buy the new full-gold Deepsea?
As you can see, the watch is more than capable. But to emphasize that is useless. We seriously doubt that anyone buying this watch for its €56,300 price will seriously put it on his or her wrist for diving adventures. That is not what this new Deepsea is all about. After last year’s beautiful titanium Yacht-Master, this is another statement piece from Rolex. But it is quite a different statement from last year’s Yacht-Master. While the reactions in the Fratello team have been mixed, it does make us wonder what Rolex has in store for us next year. For now, the full-gold Deepsea is certainly among the most surprising releases of 2024.
Echo/Neutra Rivanera
One of the nicest surprises of this year came from the Italian microbrand Echo/Neutra. We have come to know the brand for its stylish series of vintage-inspired tool watches. But we didn’t expect Echo/Neutra to come up with one of the year’s most exciting and surprising dress watches.
As soon as the two Echo/Neutra Rivanera models landed in the Fratello office, we were all surprised and impressed by these titanium dress watches. They perfectly capture the traditional spirit of classic dress watches and combine it with a stylish and modern execution that brings something new. The way that has been done shows great creativity and cleverness.
The two watches feature a rectangular Grade 5 titanium case that is 27mm wide and 40mm long. This stunningly slim and lightweight case is also just 5.5mm thick without the beautifully chamfered sapphire glass and 5.9mm with it. The 40mm length and 20mm lug spacing show that the designers created the case with modern dimensions in mind that will fit various wrist sizes. But that’s only part of why this case is so special. The lightweight titanium Tank-inspired case features a fine-grain sandblasted finish contrasted by beautifully polished edges. It’s impressive to see how well it emphasizes the shape and materials to create a super visually attractive watch.
A perfect balance of styles
Combined with the case is an Art Deco-inspired dial in either a gray shade to match the watch’s exterior or a stylish deep black. Each version has a distinct presence but balances the modern case with some stylish retro elegance. The result is a watch that comes together surprisingly well and shows where the future of dress watches could be in terms of design and materials. Add the manual-winding ETA (Peseux) 7001 caliber, and you will get more vintage-inspired charm through the movement.
This ultra-thin 17-jewel caliber is only 2.5mm thick and visible through the sapphire window of the titanium case back. The movement operates at 21,600vph, offers 42 hours of power reserve, and is the perfect power train for this super slim design. At €1,490 with two super comfortable premium leather straps, the Echo/Neutra Rivanera is undoubtedly one of this year’s most stylish (and reasonably priced) surprises.
IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar
In all fairness, this could have and maybe should have been on the list of most surprising watches of the first half of the year. The Portugieser Eternal Calendar set a new standard for IWC, particularly the Portugieser line. As Robert-Jan explained, it is an incredibly high standard. It is a spectacular version of the Portugieser, both technically and in terms of design. The watch houses a movement with a calendar complication that requires no manual correction until the year 3999. If that isn’t a sufficiently mind-boggling fact, one part inside the watch makes one complete rotation every 400 years. That’s reason enough for a mic drop.
But that’s not where the magic ends. Another stunning fact is that the movement only needs a correction for its moonphase indicator after 45 million years. Yes, you read that correctly. It’s another technical feat that had to be achieved within the confines of a regular watch movement. After all, this is still a wearable Portugieser, but it looks like the ultimate modern version of the watch.
It features a 44mm platinum case that is 15mm thick. This makes the watch super wearable for such a complicated piece. Underneath the box-type crystal, you will find a frosted sapphire dial with white lacquer on the underside. It is combined with sub-dials that are all sapphire discs. This creates a modern look for the dial that contrasts impressively with the traditional looks of the Portugieser.
We were not the only ones in awe of this technical tour de force. During this year’s GPHG, the watch was awarded the Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix, which goes to the show’s overall winner. It is proof of the surprising but incredible impact this piece had this year.
Piaget Polo 79
The last watch on our list of most surprising releases of 2024 was the opener six months ago. Despite it having debuted in February, the impact of the Piaget Polo 79 hasn’t faded. This modern version of Piaget’s brilliant statement of 1970s and ’80s luxury watchmaking was one of our favorite releases of the year.
Besides bringing back the Polo’s original aesthetic, Piaget also decided to equip the watch with its beautiful ultra-thin micro-rotor caliber 1200P1. This move is a step away from the quartz movements that powered the Piaget Polo models in the ’80s. Watch fans greatly appreciated this move, resulting in massive applause for the modern Polo 79.
The Polo 79’s distinct presence is defined by its gold case and integrated bracelet, which are graced by the characteristic horizontal “gadroons.” The watch measures 38mm in diameter and just 7.45mm thick. Despite its modest dimensions, this 18K gold watch weighs almost 200 grams.
While it is no match for the Deepsea that we discussed earlier, it is a hefty piece for its size. But if you are a fan of the Piaget Polo’s unique looks, that is the least of your worries. This new Piaget Polo 79 is a statement piece that was a surprise when it came out. It’s perhaps even more surprising that many of you welcomed it with open arms.
A proper celebration of 1980s design brilliance
While we don’t often celebrate the 1980s as one of the most stylish decades in watchmaking, the Piaget Polo is the glorious proof that we should. With a strong focus this year on shaped watches, the Piaget Polo 79 is the perfect leader of the pack. Piaget made many interesting and elegant watches in the 1970s and ’80s, but none of them are as iconic as the Polo. That’s why we welcomed this surprising release with a smile. The only downside is that the model is limited in production and has a modern price of €81,500 (including 21% VAT). But that doesn’t spoil the fun of making this the final entry on our list of the most surprising watches of 2024.
Final thoughts on the most surprising watches of 2024
There you have it! These are the five standout releases that surprised us most in 2024. We could have picked many more watches that would’ve suited this list perfectly. But you will undoubtedly see them in one of our upcoming year-end lists. On that note, dear Fratelli, we would love to turn the question to you all. What have been some of the most surprising watches of 2024 for you? Let us know in the comments section, and we’ll see you next week for another Top 5!
