Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Zenith Models
Another Friday, another list! This week, we’ll take a look at five great vintage Zenith watches. As I explained in last week’s list, that one and today’s are a little homage to Zenith. The brand from Le Locle is one of my favorite watchmakers. By releasing a seemingly never-ending stream of exciting and often surprising timepieces, Zenith has shown what it means to be properly creative. But the brand’s creative team does that based on Zenith’s rich history. That’s why it only makes sense to also look at five of Zenith’s best vintage watches!
Picking just five vintage Zenith models is tough from the get-go. There are simply too many great options to choose from. And what should we do with the El Primero trilogy from 1969? If we put all three in, we’ll only have two spots left. On top of that, the A384 and A385 are too similar to give them separate spots. Additionally, quite a few of the most praised vintage Zenith watches are variations of the A384. As I have stated quite a few times here on Fratello, I could easily create a collection of modern and vintage El Primero A384 and related models. But that would be selling the history of the brand short as well. In the end, I selected five watches that give a small look into a history full of lovely timepieces. Let’s jump straight in.
Image: The Watch Boutique
Fratello’s top 5 vintage Zenith watches — The marvelous El Primero A384
Let’s kick things off with my favorite vintage Zenith watch and the one I touched upon just now. The Zenith El Primero A384 was part of the trio of El Primero models that debuted in 1969. As most of you know, the A384, A385, and A386 were Zenith’s fruits of the race to introduce the first automatic chronographs. Whereas the high-beat El Primero movement was a proper horological tour de force, Zenith was also able to introduce two designs that have become industry classics. I love the blocky 37mm case of the A384 as it serves as a perfect canvas for some crazy variations.
Image: Watches of Knightsbridge
The fairly straightforward tonneau case shape was a stroke of genius. While it certainly wasn’t unique, it has proven that it could stand the tests of time gracefully. The brilliance of the shape is that it ensures that every element, from the dial and hands to the pushers, jumps straight at you. Another aspect I love is the case’s radially brushed finish. It keeps the case from becoming boring and adds a contrasting visual element to give it extra visual pizzazz. The original A384 combines the case with a silver dial, three black sub-dials, and a black outer ring holding a tachymeter scale. If you look closely, you see that the sub-dial at 6 o’clock is slightly smaller to create a nice dynamic.
Image: Watches of Knightsbridge
Finding a nice vintage A384 can be challenging
Inside the case, you will find the fully integrated El Primero 3019 PHC chronograph caliber. The movement operated at 36,000vph and featured 31 jewels and a 50-hour power reserve. Because of its high 5Hz frequency, the movement permitted measurements to the tenth of a second. It’s something that Zenith has fully embraced for some of its modern releases. I could go on for a bit about why I think this is such a brilliant watch, but I have explained that on multiple occasions here on Fratello.
Image: Watches of Knightsbridge
In addition to the A384, we can mention the A385. While I do prefer an A384 in nice condition, there is one thing that the A385 has going for it. One of the main gripes I have with the classic A384 is that many examples haven’t aged well. The black ring and sub-dials have often faded to brown. On top of that, the white dials and lume have often deteriorated to an extent. In comparison, the brown dial of the A385 has often survived the decades more gracefully.
Image: Watches of Knightsbridge
Lastly, an issue that both watches have is that the Gay Frères ladder bracelet often hasn’t survived the test of time. If it has, it often needs a proper cleaning and/or some restoration. Expect to see prices for a vintage A384 or A385 starting at roughly €9K on a leather strap. On a ladder bracelet, the asking prices start at roughly €13K and move up to €25K. What you get in return is a proper industry classic.
Image: Watches of Lancashire
Zenith El Primero Rainbow Fly-Back Chronograph ref. 02.0480.405
If you are a long-time reader of Fratello, you know we are big fans of the Zenith El Primero Rainbow Fly-Back Chronograph. I wrote about it in our Buying Guide series, and Lex devoted an article to it as well, asking Zenith to bring it back. Funnily enough, the brand sort of brought it back as part of the current Pilot series. In all fairness, though, it’s not the same beast as this Rainbow from the late 1990s. The watch debuted at Baselworld in 1997 after two years of development. Its creation began with a request from the French Air Force to create a new pilot’s chronograph. To meet the requirements, Zenith changed quite a bit about the original Rainbow chronographs from 1992.
Image: Watches of Lancashire
First, the brand added a flyback function to its El Primero caliber 400, thus creating caliber 405. Additionally, the screw-down pushers were replaced with regular pushers, the bezel was equipped with irregular grooves for better grip, the chronograph’s minute counter was executed with aeronautical sector colors, the bezel’s first 20 minute markings were made red, and the central chronograph seconds hand was made bright red. Finally, the designers decided to give both the case and the bracelet a matte satin-brushed finish. Having said that, as you can see in the pictures, some of the watches have a bracelet with polished intermediate links.
Image: Watches of Lancashire
Going public with the Rainbow
The result of these efforts was a military pilot’s chronograph that perfectly fit the brief of the French Air Force. There was one problem, though: the required budget to commission the watches was gone, which left Zenith with a fully developed watch that had no further purpose. However, the brand decided not to let the development go to waste and, instead, released the watch to the public in 1997. The Rainbow Fly-Back has a 40mm case with a 12.6mm thickness. Despite its rugged looks, the watch is nicely proportioned and wears very well. On the wrist, the bezel visually pops thanks to its red markers for the first 20 minutes. But if you search for this watch, you will see that quite a few examples have bezel inserts with faded red markings. This leaves nothing on the aluminum insert but black and silver.
While it’s not necessarily a bad look, it takes away quite a bit of the visual fun of the Rainbow. The combination of the bezel insert, the counter at 3 o’clock and the bright central chronograph hand give this remarkable watch its character. That’s why I would always chase one with the original bezel colors. Expect to see asking prices start at just under €3K and move up to €4.5K. Having said that, the lower end of that price range reveals that you might have to order it from Japan. Still, that will get you an absolutely wonderful Zenith classic.
Image: Analog:Shift
Zenith El Primero A386
My next pick is Zenith’s most well-known watch, the El Primero A386. As mentioned, it debuted alongside the A384 and A385 as the first trio of El Primero watches. While Zenith started out pushing the A384 in its initial campaigns for the El Primero models, the A386 was the bigger commercial hit. On top of that, Zenith started producing the A386 before the other two models. One reason this watch was more successful than its peers was its less divisive case shape. Additionally, the A386 presented a dial design that has become synonymous with its success.
Image: Analog:Shift
My Fratello colleague Mike Stockton owns a vintage El Primero A386 and explained in detail what makes it such a great timepiece. Its biggest standout feature is the dial design with its tricolor sub-dials. The 38mm case is also slightly bigger due to its long lugs, and it has a beautiful slim profile. This is thanks to the fully integrated chronograph caliber 3019 PHC. It makes the A386 an absolute joy to wear compared to many of its contemporaries from other brands that used an automatic movement with a chronograph module on top. As a result, those watches were substantially thicker than the beautiful vintage Zenith El Primero A386.
Image: Analog:Shift
The iconic dial design of the A386
The dial design is a work of art. In a world of conventions, Zenith managed to create a unique look that still stands out more than five decades later. It combines a white base with a black scale that encircles the applied indexes and features 100 graduations. Additionally, the dial features overlapping blue, light gray, and anthracite sub-dials that are the main attraction for many who love the A386. The date window, as with all vintage El Primero watches, sits neatly tucked away at 4:30. Then, the red central chronograph seconds hand adds another welcome splash of color. It engages with a firm click of the upper of the two pump-style pushers, the pair of which also adds character to the watch. Lastly, the Gay Frères ladder bracelet nicely finishes the watch’s look.
Image: Analog:Shift
If you go and search for a classic A386, you will find the same “issues” as with the A384. Quite a few of them haven’t aged very well. Both the dial and lume often show discoloration. On top of that, the ladder bracelets are often in bad shape. While the watch looks great on a leather strap, I do feel it needs the ladder bracelet to fully shine. That’s why you might have to take some time to find one in good condition. Expect to see prices starting around €13.5K and moving up to €30K for one in great condition. Of course, that is a substantial sum of money, but it gets you an icon of the watch industry.
Image: Phillips
Zenith A277 Diving Chronograph
Next up is another legendary Zenith chronograph that was produced from 1968 until 1970. The Zenith A277 is a great example of what makes ’60s chronographs so attractive. Zenith produced two versions of the A277 that have slightly different designs. Both feature a 40mm stainless steel case with a 14.5mm thickness and a 22mm lug spacing. The watches were fitted with the Gay Frères ladder bracelet, just as so many Zenith watches were at the time. In all honesty, while it might be a stylish solution, I much prefer a stronger bracelet for such a substantial chronograph.
Image: Phillips
The two versions differ in terms of dial design and hands. The first A277 version featured a non-luminous chronograph seconds hand, blued steel sub-dial hands, and a five-point star on the crown. I, however, prefer the second version, which you see in these pictures. It came with a luminous chronograph seconds hand, gold-colored sub-dial hands, and a four-point star on the crown. The little touch of color adds extra visual pizzazz to the second version, and that’s why I prefer it. As you can see, the dial of the A277 is very clean in terms of text. Besides the logo, the Zenith star, and the “Swiss Made” text straddling the sub-dial at 6 o’clock, there is no extra unnecessary visual embellishment, and I love that.
Image: Rarebirds.de
A manual-winding caliber by Martel Watch Co.
Inside the case, Zenith used its manual-winding caliber 146H. Later versions, however, housed the updated caliber 146HP. Both movements were produced in-house by Zenith. However, it must be added that the brand acquired Martel Watch Co. in the late 1950s, which was responsible for creating these movements. The caliber 146H and 146HP were part of a series of movements known to be reliable and sturdy. Movado also used it for its Super Sub Sea Chronograph. As many of you know, that led to a Zenith and Movado partnership in 1969.
Image: Rarebirds.de
Finding a Zenith A277 is not that hard. The one thing you have to be aware of is the condition. Like many vintage pieces, these A277s were used as daily wearers for years. As a result, they haven’t always aged well. The bezel is often in poor condition. A faded bezel results in a watch that some people like. Sometimes, though, the bezel is also heavily beaten up. Prices range from just over €6K up to roughly €10K for ones in good condition. What you get in return is a great example of what made Zenith such a great brand in the 1960s.
Image: Shuck The Oyster
Zenith El Primero A3817
Last week, I picked two modern models that use the case of the A384. If you will allow me, I will do the same thing this week. On top of that, it’s for precisely the same reason. Last week, I mentioned that what makes Zenith’s creative team stand out is the willingness to try new things with proven classics.
Image: Shuck The Oyster
We have seen new materials and fresh finishes in the current Chronomaster series. This experimental mindset is not just a quality of Zenith nowadays, though. Back in the early 1970s, Zenith’s designers also had a fresh take on what creativity could bring to the brand.
Image: Shuck The Oyster
One of the greatest examples is the Zenith El Primero A3817. The watch utilizes design elements from multiple watches that have gone on to become great classics, resulting in an iconic piece on its own. The A3817 combines the tonneau-shaped case of the A384 with a dial that takes queues from the A386.
Image: Shuck The Oyster
The blocky case houses a white dial that has the overlapping colorful sub-dials of Zenith’s most famous El Primero variant. However, if you look more closely, you will also see that the black outer tachymeter ring comes from the original A384. Lastly, the dial also features the shark-tooth minute track that has become famous as one of the defining elements of the blue-dial A3818 “Cover Girl,” which also debuted in 1971.
Image: Shuck The Oyster
The A3817 sparked my love for the A384 and its successors
Inside the watch, you will find the same El Primero movement that powered the initial trio from 1969. This high-beat caliber has become my favorite of the first-generation automatic chronograph movements. It’s one of the main reasons I love Zenith’s history so much. Another big reason for me is the brand’s awesome creative approach to watch design. It certainly made the brand stand out in the ’60s and ’70s. But over the last seven years or so, Zenith has built on that legacy and shown how the classics are still relevant. Both the modern reissues of the classic El Primero models as well as the new models based on those classics show the incredible power of the Zenith designs.
Image: Shuck The Oyster
What makes the A3817 the last pick for this list is a special story. While I desperately wanted to review the Chronomaster Revival A384 after its release in 2019, I somehow never got to spend a significant amount of time with one. Then, in 2021, I had the chance to take the Chronomaster Revival A3817 for a substantial spin.
Image: Shuck The Oyster
That’s when I fell head over heels for the case shape, the dial design, and just the overall awesome feeling that the watch gave me when wearing it. It was then that my appreciation for Zenith turned into a love for the brand, and that’s why I featured this classic. Zenith produced 1,000 pieces of the A3817, making it rather rare. Expect to see prices starting at roughly €15K and €25K, but that range is based on a small number of them on offer.
Image: Analog/Shift
Final thoughts on the top five vintage Zenith models
Five picks certainly don’t do Zenith justice. While these five vintage Zenith watches give a great impression of what makes the brand so special, there are a lot more gems, from the A3818 “Cover Girl” and the classic gold El Primero G581, G582, and G583 chronograph series to the gold G381, the hefty A3821, and the Cairelli chronograph. And that’s even leaving out the gold Bolognese El Primero Chronographs, De Luca chronographs, and the Sub Sea models.
Image: Chrono24
There are so many more watches that deserve attention. It does spark the idea to create a longer article on vintage Zenith watches to give a more extensive overview. Additionally, there are plenty of fairly new El Primero models that are worth checking out. So definitely expect to see more about Zenith in the future! In the meantime, look out for a new Top 5 next Friday.
