Gateway Watches: The Watches That Get Us Hooked And Locked In

I had studied it for months. I knew everything there was to know about it. The only issue was that I had never seen one in real life. The only way to get my hands on one was to order it online. So that’s what I did. It took its sweet time since I had asked the vendor to retrofit a domed sapphire crystal. Then, one fateful day, the mailman arrived with a parcel. I opened it, my heart racing. A brand-new Seiko SKX009J1 emerged. I remember my first thought was, “Hm, it is quite ugly.” But it didn’t matter. This was my first watch — or, first mechanical watch, I should say — and it would be my gateway watch. I was in. I was doomed.

All watch collectors and enthusiasts can tell you a story like this. They all remember what their first “real” watch was and how they got it. Interestingly, a relatively small group of watches played this role for tons of aficionados. My beloved SKX has been the gateway watch for many. It makes me feel old, though, as new enthusiasts no longer have easy access to this model. Consequently, they turned to other watches. Today, I would like to have a look at some great gateway watches you can buy in 2024. Let’s dive in!

What is a gateway watch?

Strictly speaking, a gateway watch is a watch that lures you in. It’s that one watch that gets you hooked on the hobby. So, in theory, it could be any watch. It is often the first “real” watch, whatever that means to you. Perhaps it is the first mechanical watch someone acquires or the first from a “true” watch brand. Maybe it is one’s first departure from department-store fashion watches.

I would, however, like to expand the definition with one key criterion — staying power. The greatest “first real watches” are those you don’t feel the need to leave behind. Whether yours is still your nicest watch or you have become a serial Patek Philippe and Urwerk collector, it should remain relevant.

My Seiko SKX, for instance, doesn’t look out of place next to my Rolex Explorer II 16570 and my 1970 Speedmaster Professional. I still wear it. It still commands attention, and it isn’t embarrassed by the fancier stuff around it. This, I think, is the big difference from the fashion watches I had before. The ones that didn’t break are stuffed somewhere in the back of my closet. I feel like they don’t belong in my watch box. In short, they didn’t have the staying power to stick with me as my taste developed. A great gateway watch should have that power, at least to you. This means it needs to have some sort of X factor that transcends its relatively modest price. So, with that extra boundary set, let’s explore some contenders in today’s watch market.

Does Seiko still make the best gateway watches?

I am partial to sticking with Seiko. The brand has four things going for it, making it a very suitable first-real-watch contender. First, its watches cover pretty much all price ranges, so you can step in at whatever level is comfortable for you. Second, Seiko has a rich history and a plethora of iconic models, which tends to help with staying power. Third, Seiko watches are free of brand stigma, which also helps with staying power. Finally, they are dependable, so you can get them serviced and make them last.

So, what Seiko would I recommend, specifically? Well, how about a Cocktail Time? The blue SRPB41, for instance, is a handsome automatic watch with a fancy dial and a decent bracelet. At €440, it is likely within reach if you are coming in from Armani or Apple. It is a dressy watch, but, stylistically, it can serve as a one-watch collection.

Even closer to home for me is the Seiko 5 Sports collection. Yes, the SKX style is still available, even if the watches aren’t ISO-certified divers. A modest €310 buys you an SKX-shaped automatic watch in your choice of a plethora of colors.

Tissot PRX

Another obvious contender is the Tissot PRX. You can get the desirable look of a ’70s sports watch on an integrated bracelet for as little as €395 when choosing a quartz model. If you want to make the jump to a Powermatic 80 mechanical version, you can still stay well clear of the €1K mark at €775.

The collection is comprehensive, with multiple sizes and colors, so there is likely a variant to suit your taste. I can, anecdotally, attest to the staying power of these watches as you perhaps grow into fancier ones. Over half of the core team members at Fratello own a PRX and wear it regularly. I particularly like Lex’s ice-blue version. He bought one for his son too. We can certainly be snobby at times, so this says something.

The microbrand route to a gateway watch

Microbrands have matured over the past decade, making them a viable option for a gateway watch today. Many microbrands use the same suppliers as mainstream brands, meaning you don’t have to compromise on quality. Additionally, they are often led by a small team with a strong creative vision, resulting in original and cohesive designs, at least among the better ones.

My go-to would be Lorier if you are into vintage watches. Lorier is a sympathetic small brand that excels at providing amazing value for money. The Neptune, for instance, is an awesome mid-century-style dive watch that Lorier manages to offer for €499. Of course, you won’t get a watch with a luxury fit and finish, but the quality exceeds the price tag. What I love about Lorier is the devotion to vintage style. Each model’s crystal, for instance, is Hesalite. The result is a watch that truly looks and feels very similar to exotic vintage stuff costing dozens of times as much.

Another option is Baltic, although you might wonder when a microbrand stops being a microbrand. The French brand has grown so quickly that we may have to start referring to it as a “mesobrand.” As with Lorier, the vibe is distinctly vintage, but the designs are always executed well, and the quality is surely fair for the price.

An oddball gateway: Omega × Swatch MoonSwatch

Now, this is surely a controversial contender. After all, a MoonSwatch does not get you much in terms of build quality, finishing, or even mechanical timekeeping. Still, I am quite sure this will turn out to be a gateway watch for many who bought one.

Why? Because you are getting a little taste of an iconic watch design and the storytelling behind it. It is a low-risk way to get part of the experience. I am not saying I would recommend it. To me, the MoonSwatch does not represent what I enjoy about watches. But I don’t think it is much of a stretch to predict it will attract many people to our shared hobby, and for that, I applaud it.

Honorable mentions

This little list is by no means comprehensive, but there are a few more options I want to mention quickly. I know many come into the hobby through digital watches, particularly G-Shocks. Orient is another brand that offers several models that serve the purpose of a gateway watch rather well.

Another I should mention is Citizen. The Tsuyosa, its take on the integrated-bracelet sports watch, offers extreme value and comes in many fun variants. The same goes for Citizen dive watches. The Hamilton Khaki Field is another that serves the gateway role for many enthusiasts. And for our US readers, in particular, Timex does too.

It seems we could go on for hours, so perhaps the better option is to ask you, Fratelli. What was your gateway watch and the story behind it? Also, what would you recommend to newcomers as a gateway watch today? Please let us all know in the comments section below!