Hands-On With A Lightweight: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49

A sporty featherweight from a heavyweight watchmaker

October 12, 2024

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Girard-Perregaux has a history spanning over two centuries, and longevity justifies calling the brand a heavyweight watchmaker. “GP” might be in the shadow of “AP” and “VC,” but it more than deserves a light shining on it. There’s a long history of remarkable and unique complications, like the tourbillon with three gold bridges, and then there’s a 1970s classic, the Laureato. The current collection holds many variations, of which the recently introduced Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 is an interesting example.

The Laureato is a shadow icon. I will not call it an “alternative” to other luxury sports watches with an integrated bracelet because I don’t believe in alternatives — you can read about that standpoint right here. In 1975, Girard-Perregaux introduced the Quartz Chronometer, a tonneau-shaped watch with an octagonal bezel that can be seen as the forebear of the Laureato. The fact that the original Laureato was a battery-powered watch was never an issue. Let me rephrase that: the Laureato’s quartz heart never stood in its way. The Royal Oaks of this world did, though. And the somewhat turbulent current history of Girard-Perregaux may also be a factor.

The non-anecdotal lightweight Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49

As a non-Genta design, life can be challenging in the contemporary watch world where the integrated-bracelet sports watch reigns supreme and status and easy-listening storytelling are (almost) everything. The Laureato has no famous “daddy” or an anecdotal history. But does it take an anecdote or a late star designer to appreciate the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49? The answer is “no.” Just let the watch do the talking.

Thomas already wrote an introductory article about the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49, so please check it out for all the objective information and specs regarding the 107g watch. I will concentrate on how the €20,500 chronograph wears. Spoiler alert: it wears well, not just because of its weight but also because of the timepiece’s size, shape, and details.

Attention to detail

When you put the Laureato Chronograph Ti49 on the wrist, you first notice its lightness. Some people still want luxurious things to be heavy, but this GP is not a paperweight but a sports watch. Well-finished Grade 5 titanium with alternating polished and brushed finishes looks luxurious, and a lack of weight adds to that, not diminishes it. And if that isn’t luxurious enough, the delicate Clous de Paris pattern on the gray dial in the same tone as its titanium surroundings is a prime example of luxury watchmaking. Attention to detail is also evident in the octagonal screw-down chronograph pushers, which echo the bezel’s shape.

“Stealthy” on the wrist

On the wrist, this GP chrono with its 42mm diameter, 50.5mm length, and 12mm thickness wears completely trouble-free. When I say that you don’t notice it, I mean that as a compliment, but there was one element I had to get used to — the watch’s “stealthy” qualities. Yes, the different textures of the dial and the sub-dials are subtle, the applied indexes and logos add depth, and the ton-sur-ton composition is sophisticated. But when you don’t look at the different details individually, which happens when you check your watch for the time, its ultra-gray look is a bit bland. Calling it “stealthy” might sound more exciting, but that terminology doesn’t apply to a full-titanium watch with neo-retro 1970s looks and a gray dial. “Boring” does. That said, a watch being boring can be the best starting point for a happy and long-lasting relationship with it.

There are no complaints about operating the chronograph movement of this Laureato. Behind a solid titanium case back beats the 419-part, automatic in-house caliber GP03300-0141. The caliber’s 46-hour power reserve tells us it’s not the pinnacle of movement innovation and could be the subject of debate. The same goes for the watch’s date window, which you find between 4 and 5 o’clock on the dial. Does it add something? Is it a relic from the past we should cherish instead of criticize? You tell me in the comments.

Other choices from the Girard-Perregaux collection

Faced with a lineup of Laureato chronograph models in steel, gold, titanium, and carbon fiber, you might have difficulty choosing between them. Wearing the Laureato Chronograph Ti49 made me think of related GP references. In other words, I started looking on Girard-Perregaux’s website for alternatives — the only time I think looking for alternatives makes sense because the search happens within the confines of the brand, the collection, and the specifications. In gold, I don’t think this sporty chronograph makes sense. The steel versions are around 60 grams heavier and don’t qualify because of the weight increase over titanium.

The Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech is a possible alternative. The use of unidirectional, non-braided, and pre-impregnated carbon fibers combined with lightweight titanium powder for the case results in a light and intriguing-looking piece of high-tech kit. Unfortunately, the case measures 44mm wide and 15.15mm thick, and instead of a bracelet in the same marble-like material, the watch is outfitted with a fabric strap. Not only is the carbon watch significantly bigger than its titanium counterpart, but its price is also higher. The 8Tech costs €29,300, which is too costly to serve as a veritable alternative. I have no choice but to deal with the “boring” gray variant in titanium. It might take a few years, but I’m willing to give this long-term experiment a serious go.