Graduated GADA: Luxury Do-Anything Watches From Rolex, Grand Seiko, And More

One-watch collection, anyone?

September 14, 2022

comments 61

This week is Fratello Collector’s Week version 2.0! We’re going to see a lot of content about personal collections, approaches to collecting, and other things multiple-watch-related. This article is about watch collections in a way as well, except here, the focus is on watches that could serve as one-watch collections. I’m talking about GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) watches, a cult genre of watch feverishly pursued by many a watch enthusiast (myself included). Today, I’m focusing on watches that truly can go anywhere (including formal occasions and along the progression of the owner’s life) and can truly serve as one-and-done choices. To me, that necessitates a certain luxury that other, more affordable GADAs — while perhaps just as capable — can’t compete with. Here, we have entries from Rolex, Omega, and others that bridge the gap between luxurious and capable.

I love a good deal. My GADA and daily wearer, which I mentioned often in my article about collecting Seikos, is a Seiko Alpinist SARB017 that I bought at an excellent price. I have Swiss watches as well, but none of my watches feel as “right” to me for daily wear as my Alpinist. But recently, I’ve been thinking that perhaps, while totally fitting and appealing to me now, a Seiko Alpinist isn’t necessarily where I want to stop on my GADA journey. I’m progressing along my various professions (and age), and a higher-quality, luxury GADA is beginning to look really appealing to me. So it’s time to survey the landscape to see what exactly is available.

Some clear luxury GADA parameters

The particulars of what makes a watch a GADA are loosely defined by group consensus. Really, a watch that can accompany the wearer wherever they go and in whatever they do is a GADA, even if it has a water resistance of 3 ATM. Maybe the wearer doesn’t swim. But typically, GADA rules dictate at least 100 meters of water resistance and a refined appearance. No complications except often a date indicator, and no tool bezels, rotating or stationary.

For this exercise in luxury GADAs, I’ve set out some clear rules. This was primarily to keep the selection pool as limited as possible. I still ended up with eight watches. For a luxury GADA, each watch must have at least 100 meters of water resistance and a sapphire crystal. Automatic winding is a must. Each entry must come on a bracelet, adding to the luxury experience. Accuracy can’t have a variance greater than a total range of 10 seconds per day (though some beat that by a long shot) And entries can’t be less than 35mm in diameter or larger than 40mm, hitting that sweet spot and erring towards the more formal end of sizing.

Parameters for the list

These watches must cost more than $2,000 and less than $10,000. I’ve kept entries to one watch per brand to diversify the list. Also, it was important to me that there are no repeated calibers. You’ll only find one ETA 2824-2 base in this list, and even it’s been regulated for better performance.

I’m not a stickler for date indicators one way or another. It just happens that every entry on the list except two comes with a date window. If having a date on a GADA makes you want to pull your hair out, you might want to scroll down to the Tudor and Cartier and save yourself the premature balding. Otherwise, enjoy the journey through the watches (and the prices). We start with the most affordable on the list: The Citizen.

the citizen oblique crown AQ4020-54Y GADA

Image source: Deployant.com

Citizen “The Citizen” Eco-Drive AQ4020-54Y

Citizen sets a high bar with a JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) exclusive luxury Eco-Drive. “The Citizen” Chronomaster at 37mm in diameter with white Washi paper dial (ref. AQ4020-54Y) does a lot of heavy lifting behind the scenes. First off, let’s talk about accuracy. Yes, Citizen’s Eco-Drive technology is based on quartz timekeeping in conjunction with solar power. But the A060 caliber within is extremely accurate even for quartz standards with an accuracy of ±5 seconds… per year. The battery’s power reserve is 7 months, but considering the A060 can charge via any light, anyone would be hard-pressed to deplete the charge. The AQ4020-54Y actually employs a perpetual calendar with lightning-fast date change at midnight. That means no adjusting the date at the end of every other month.

It’s a stunning execution of a watch, though it won’t turn heads unless you’re in a room of watch nerds.

If the technical side of the watch is impressive, Citizen did an excellent job matching it with impressive elegance. The dial is made from a white traditional Japanese Washi paper, which has a loose-enough weave to let light permeate to the solar cell underneath. The dauphine hands and indices (applied to a transparent cover over the paper dial) are finished to sharp, precise edges. The scratch-resistant titanium case and bracelet have a mix of Zaratsu-polished and brushed surfaces.

I particularly appreciate the inclusion of crown guards on such an otherwise austere watch (though the crown is push/pull), hinting at the 100 meters of water resistance and the expectation that the Citizen “The Citizen” AQ4020-54Y is meant to go anywhere. It’s only about $2,100 from your JDM watch retailer of choice, which I consider a good deal for what one gets in this watch. It’s a stunning execution of a watch, though it won’t turn heads unless you’re in a room of watch nerds. In today’s social climate, that may be the only attention you want your watch to attract.

Longines Spirit 37

The Longines Spirit is a polished example of a “standard” watch. It harks back to an aviation past but doesn’t scream about it as some Fliegers do with their exaggerated sword hands. Instead, with its slim hands and Arabic numerals, the Longines Spirit line is a casual watch that can dress up or down. Now available in 37mm (ref. L3.410.4.93.6), Longines has perfected the formula, delivering a watch that flies under the radar with its ease and wearability but doesn’t skimp on the specs.

Inside that brushed stainless steel case with polished accents is a COSC-certified chronometer, Longines caliber L888.4. Beating at 25,200vph with its silicon balance spring, magnetism shouldn’t be a problem. The power reserve is an impressive 72 hours. The L888.4, though presented as a Longines caliber, is only the latest iteration in a long history of movements. It’s based on the ETA caliber A31.L11, itself based on the ETA 2829-A2, a highly regarded movement that many enthusiasts considered superior to the 2824-2.

Casual, capable, and good looking

The watch itself is similarly full of little details that elevate it from a simple field watch to a luxury GADA. The sunray dial, for instance, is bordered by a raised chapter ring. The chapter ring has cutouts for the diamond-shaped hour markers that sit just outside the applied numerals. Polishing on the 100m water-resistant case and bracelet exists only on the thinnest surfaces, serving more as accenting pinstripes than that catch the light (and the eye).

The generally brushed nature of the case and bracelet lend the Spirit 37 to adventuring without looking too rough when all is said and done. Finally, the screw-down crown on the Spirit models resembles half of the hourglass found in between the wings of the Longines emblem on the dial. These are all subtle yet appreciated design choices that further lend a sense of elegance. At $2,400, that elegance doesn’t have to cost as much as one might think.

Ball Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer

Ball takes an almost opposite approach to Longines when it comes to a reasonably priced luxury GADA. The Ball Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer (ref. NM9026C-S6CJ-BE) is shiny with its polished case surfaces and bracelet center links. The dial has a minimal approach to telling time, with big rectangular indices and dauphine hands. The only ornate element is the counterweight on the seconds hand, Ball’s trademark “RR”. The only visible similarity to the Longines Spirit is the sunray dial finish.

As reserved as the Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer might look, it’s a tool watch through and through. The 904L steel case is a full-sized 40mm in diameter for housing the mu-metal shield insulating the movement from up to 1,000 gauss of magnetism. That movement is Ball’s RR1103-C caliber, based on an ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW200-1. The movement is COSC chronometer certified with an accuracy of +6/-4 seconds per day. Other specs are standard for an ETA 2824-2 base — a 28,800vph frequency and a 38-hour power reserve.

Fun and functionality

What makes Ball watches a lot of fun is their unique illumination. All Ball watches use micro-gas tubes filled with tritium for illumination. This technology differs from painted lume like Super-LumiNova in that it is constantly giving off light and doesn’t need the sun to charge. During the day, the light the tubes give off isn’t visible, but they positively glow throughout the night. On the Marvelight Chronometer, all hands and indices use micro-tube illumination in green, except for the index at 12 o’clock, which glows yellow.

Ball takes a standard workhorse movement, adjusts it to COSC certification, and protects it from magnetism in a shiny, smart-looking case, screw-down crown, and bracelet combo that is water resistant to 100 meters. I usually wouldn’t tout the strengths of an ETA 2824-2 against the other, more impressive calibers on this list except that the ease of servicing almost anywhere in the world certainly adds to the Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer’s GADA status. For $2,350, one can have ETA ease and reliability in Ball’s robust, elegant case.

Tudor Black Bay 36 Steel and Gold

Of course, Tudor was going to make it onto this list. Tudor, little brother to Rolex, delivers plenty of watches that are prime for one-watch collections. The Black Bay 36 is perhaps the most GADA of them all, coming closest to resembling Rolex’s 36mm Explorer. In steel and gold (ref. m79643-0001), the Black Bay 36 is a luxury GADA with some serious presence.

This Black Bay comes with Tudor’s manufacture caliber MT5400. It has a power reserve of 70 hours, a 28,800vph beat rate, and a silicon balance spring for enhanced magnetic resistance. The Black Bay 36 Steel and Gold is a COSC-certified chronometer, but Tudor takes accuracy a step further and adjusts the movement to +4/-2 seconds per day after casing.

The flashiest GADA on the list

The watch itself is a stark departure from the understated GADAs on the rest of this list. The bright gold bezel, crown, and links in the bracelet contrast with brushed and polished stainless steel surfaces. The black dial is adorned with gold accents in the form of the edges of the indices, hands, and dial text. Missing from this luxury GADA is a date function, which only adds to the elegance with the perfect balance of the dial.

At 36mm, the Black Bay 36 Steel and Gold is smaller but certainly tough enough. Like its cousin, the Rolex Explorer, the Black Bay 36 is water resistant to 100 meters. Unlike the Rolex Explorer, even in steel and gold, the Tudor Black Bay 36 costs $5,025. Plus, it’s available to buy today.

Omega Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial Master Chronometer 38mm

The Omega Aqua Terra line is known and beloved by many. Like any good GADA, the Aqua Terra 150m watches are simple yet attractive affairs. Our selection today, the Co-Axial Master Chronometer 38mm (ref. 220.10.38.20.03.003) is no different. It has Omega’s twisted lyre lugs, a straightforward dial, and an elegant Omega handset. Paired with a perfectly matched brushed and polished bracelet, it perfectly matches the definition of a luxury GADA.

This has the greatest water resistance of our contenders so far with a rating of 150 meters. Inside is Omega’s Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8800. The 8800 resists magnetic fields to an incredible 15,000 gauss with its bounty of silicon components. The power reserve is 55 hours. The 8800 beats at 3.5 Hz, which is standard for most of Omega’s Co-Axial calibers. Accuracy is +5/-0 seconds per day, following the METAS-certified Master Chronometers requirements.

While not as flashy as the two-tone Tudor, we’re entering a realm of wider public recognition with the Omega Aqua Terra. If you want others to know your GADA is fancy, the Omega may be the way to go. It may slide back and forth between leisure and business better than some of the more affordable and less well-known GADAs featured already. But you pay for that brand recognition (as well as those specs). You can join the Omega GADA club for $6,000.

Santos de Cartier Medium

This is the GADA that has almost got me. Or rather, I’ve been back and forth to the brink deciding that I want to get it. I had the chance to try on a medium Cartier Santos at an event a few months back. It’s an excellent watch. Beyond that, it’s every bit as tough as I’d need an elevated GADA to be.

Cartier does not impart a lot of technical information about its watches on its website. That makes sense. Cartier is as much (or more) a jewelry company as it is a watch brand. The medium Cartier Santos in stainless steel (ref. WSSA0029) has a water resistance of 100 meters, is 35mm wide, and employs Cartier’s caliber 1847 MC. It has a faceted synthetic blue spinel cabochon and uses Cartier’s “QuickSwitch” bracelet interchangeability system. That’s about all the information one can get from Cartier easily. Other, more persistent watch bloggers have found out more.

The specs they don’t want you to know

Jason Swire over at ChronoChatter.com politely but persistently plagued (his words, not mine) Cartier for more details about caliber 1847 MC inside the Cartier Santos. After some back and forth, he learned that the 1847 MC is resistant to magnetic fields up to 1,200 gauss! Other watch enthusiasts have pinned Cartier down on accuracy, which they note is +7/-3 seconds per day. Why Cartier wouldn’t advertise these impressive specs is beyond me. But maybe it comes down to selling an icon more than selling a movement.

And the Cartier Santos is iconic. It’s a long-lived watch that has gone through many iterations in its design. It bares Cartier’s name (which does a lot of heavy lifting by itself), and Cartier’s iconic approach to square dials. If the watch specs were not so robust, I’d have trouble understanding how Cartier could justify a price of $6,800. As it is though, and not excluding the Cartier brand element, $6,800 makes more sense to me. Whether or not I can justify spending $6,800, well, that’s another thing entirely.

Rolex Datejust 36mm

What, did you think it was going to be an Explorer? While the Rolex Explorer makes an excellent GADA, I wanted something a little more dressy for the Rolex entry today. Enter the Oystersteel 36mm Rolex Datejust (ref. 126200). Rolex watches generally are built to go anywhere except dark alleys in city centers. But aside from the risk of them getting stolen, they can withstand most conditions an owner can subject one to.

If you want everyone to know you know what’s excellent as well, or if you just enjoy excellent watches, the Datejust is just as good a candidate as any to accompany you through life.

The Datejust 36mm uses the famous Oyster case, water resistant to 100 meters. Inside is Rolex’s caliber 3235, with a 70-hour power reserve, magnetic resistance, and accuracy of ±2 seconds per day. I certainly don’t need to say it, but Rolex’s movements are superlative. It even says so on the dial.

Everything Rolex does in a watch is objectively excellent. The level of precision, the finishing, the fit. There’s a reason everyone knows Rolex. If you want everyone to know you know what’s excellent as well, or if you just enjoy excellent watches, the Datejust is just as good a candidate as any to accompany you through life. It can go from ocean to board room to party without missing a beat. But one has to pay for excellence. It costs $7,200 for this champagne-dialed Datejust, and the availability issue is a factor as well.

Grand Seiko White Birch SLGA009

Of course, the list doesn’t stop with Rolex. While the Datejust is incredibly accurate and excellently finished, it may not match Grand Seiko in finishing and certainly can’t beat the accuracy of Grand Seiko’s SLGA009. Then again, that isn’t entirely fair, considering it’s a Spring Drive.

Grand Seiko’s newest line of watches, “Evolution 9”, is where the brand is directing a lot of its creative energy, releasing new case designs and movements. The SLGA009 “White Birch” is one such model exhibiting Grand Seiko’s new Evolution 9 case design, along with the new Caliber 9RA2, one of Grand Seiko’s most impressive Spring Drive movements to date.

Calibre 9RA2 boasts a power reserve of 120 hours or 5 days. The power reserve can be tracked by the indicator on the back of the movement, visible through the SLGA009’s transparent case back. As a Spring Drive, combining mechanical power with quartz accuracy, the 9RA2 is accurate to ±10 seconds per month, an improvement from older Spring Drive’s accuracies of ±15 seconds per month. Though it’s partially a quartz movement, the 9RA2 is finished to a high quality with diamond cut bevelling.

Gorgeous on the outside too

A high level of finishing is standard procedure for Grand Seiko. Immaculate may be a better descriptor. Grand Seikos hold up famously well under a loupe, where magnification reveals the same sharp, clean lines devoid of imperfection. The handset is a modified dauphine style with a blunted and bisected hour hand. The applied and polished hour indices sit atop the dial that gives the “White Birch” its name. Organic, vertical grooves on a white metal dial impart the qualities of a birch’s white bark that gives the tree its unique look.

The 40mm case is another exercise in perfect finishing. As with the Citizen that we began with, the SLGA009’s sweeping stainless steel case is a mix of brushed and Zaratsu-polished surfaces. The Zaratsu process imparts a distortion-free, mirror-like quality to the polished surfaces. As beautiful as it is, it is still water resistant to 100 meters. It’s a well-known anecdote that Grand Seiko watches don’t really need lume, as any available ambient light catches the polished surfaces on the hands and indices to adequately tell the time. All of this Grand Seiko wizardry doesn’t come cheap, though. At $9,100 and the top price on our list, the folks at Grand Seiko are letting the world know that they make the most impressive stainless steel luxury GADA. I don’t disagree.

Which luxury GADA?

With the parameters I set, these are the watches that make the cut. They’re capable, they’re well-made, and they certainly can go anywhere, even to some of the fanciest places. Which one will I choose when the time comes? I don’t know yet, though I’d love to have more time with the Cartier Santos. Will getting the Cartier Santos help me to bring my watch collection down to one piece? Not a chance.

What is your luxury GADA of choice? Is there a Go Anywhere, Do Anything watch out there that could convince you to have a one-watch collection? What have we missed in this list? Let us know in the comments below.

You can find more of me on Instagram @WatchingThomas.

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Graduated GADA: Luxury Do-Anything Watches From Rolex, Grand Seiko, And More

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Tudor_addict says:

Sep 14, 2022 at 07:55

Datejust 36 is the one watch collection to end them all! I’m happiest with my 79220N BB on a daily basis, but I understand it breaks several house rules ?

Reply
1. GD
  Dobbo says:
  
  Sep 14, 2022 at 17:13
  
  Agreed.
  
  Only issue is you can’t go anywhere with them anymore – which is a real shame.
  
  Reply
2. dr
  JakobR says:
  
  Sep 15, 2022 at 06:07
  
  Yachtmaster, Rhodium dial 37
  Thin, 100m wr, bidirectional bezel, date, fabulous lume. rolex bracelet, thin
  The successor to the Date o Graph (aka the Datejust with a bezel)
  
  Reply
3. RV
  ralfybaby says:
  
  Sep 17, 2022 at 02:34
  
  I like the eco-drive but $2k for a quartz watch is a no-no for me.
  
  The longines: I love the dial colour but with the arab numbers and the 5 stars at the bottom (yuk) it looks unelegant to me.
  
  I am surprised by how much I like that Ball. I think the dauphine hands are a miss, with the indices being so blocky and the second hand having a blocky lume dot the hour and minute hands should have been rectangular also.
  
  The Tudor looks too gaudy and somehow malproportioned to me.
  
  The Omega AT is the clear winner to me. The sloping indices, the dauphin hands and the bold arrow hand, very integrated and not boring. I would get a slightly used one with the vertical “teak” and the date window at 0300h where it belongs.
  
  Cartier? I like it, but it doesn’t know what it is. Not dressy enough and yet not sporty enough. I find the screw let’s a bit fussy and the crown guards look a bit off to me as well.
  
  The Borelex is a Borelex. Does it come with a bus pass? Next.
  
  The Seiko is probably quite magnificent to hold in hand in person. The dial looks beautiful. But I am not into tech wizardry like Spring drive.
  And at $9k I find it too expensive. That is 3/4 of an Ed White Speedmaster.
  
  So the winner is ……..
  
  A Christopher Ward C63 Sealander. All the GADA goodness for way under what the prices are for these. Finishing as good as a watch twice the price, ingenious micro strap adjustment on the fly, You can get one with a GMT which does not detract from its GADA-ness in my view.
  
  Reply
  1. PB
    Surfcoastlad says:
    
    Sep 18, 2022 at 03:15
    
    Nice analysis Rbaby – hadn’t come across the Christopher Ward before – what is your fav watch / strap combo of the Sealander models?
    
    Reply
Ugo says:

Sep 14, 2022 at 08:07

i insist on the Chronomat 36.

Reply
Warky says:

Sep 14, 2022 at 08:24

None of the above.

Get a pre owned previous generation Aqua Terra for a very low price on C24 and wear it until you die.

Job done?

In all seriousness I would have the AT, DJ or GS from this list. They are pretty close on all fronts and all do the job very well. Each also has an “ace card” where they beat the others so it depends which of these factors is most important to you (water/magnetic resistance, value retention/development and accuracy/low visibility).

Real world I would have (and do have in a different configuration) the DJ.

I should say that I love the Cartier but its styling takes it out of what I would personally consider a GADA.

Reply
1. dr
  JakobR says:
  
  Sep 15, 2022 at 17:38
  
  I would say a preowned AT is a great GADA watch for the person who is not an enthusiast and wants a solid Swiss watch at a good value from a highly reputable brand.
  I personally find the AT as opposed to a Rolex or a GS becomes more problematic when part of collection as it simply doesn’t provide me with the same frisson to pick it out of my watchbox in the morning as my YM, EX1 or GS Skyflake. Perhaps it is too much of no brainer all rounder kinda like a standard VW Golf to give you a thrill if you have a rack of keys on the wall.
  
  Reply
2. RV
  ralfybaby says:
  
  Sep 16, 2022 at 22:33
  
  A previous gen AT with the date window at 3h and the vertical teak lines on the dial the way they are supposed to be is a solid preposition.
  Although getting there myself the DJ is too much of an old coot watch for me..
  
  Reply
CM
Nolumenogo says:

Sep 14, 2022 at 08:26

Sorry to burst the bubble here, but a watch with no Lume is far away and not even close to being a GADA. Your go anywhere can’t be dark and your do anything can’t be at night … just saying.

Reply
1. Warky says:
  
  Sep 14, 2022 at 09:08
  
  The GS “no lume needed” is in my personal experience also a bit of a myth.
  
  Sure in low light they are more legible than normal unlumed watches, but in the dark they aren’t.
  
  It is simply not true to say they match a watch with super luminova – after being suitably exposed to sunlight those are perfectly legible in both low light and complete dark for hours.
  
  Reply
  1. MB
    MarkB says:
    
    Sep 14, 2022 at 13:24
    
    Which is why the only true Grand Seiko GADAs are in the ‘Sports’ range, the SBGN005 for example.
    
    Reply
    1. AM
      phobiaofwolves says:
      
      Sep 14, 2022 at 19:13
      
      The SBGN005 is one of my favorite watches to come out in the last 5 years. It’s not a perfect watch by any means, but it hits me just right.
      
      Reply
      1. MB
        MarkB says:
        
        Sep 15, 2022 at 00:24
        
        And its replacement is due soon. Same price, same size but now with 200m WR and the crown at 4.
        
        Reply
  2. Stefan says:
    
    Sep 14, 2022 at 23:41
    
    And just how are you going to expose it to sunlight in dark hours? It means your GADA watch requires a flashlight or some other source of light to charge the lume. So unless you have a Ball watch, your lume doesn’t work without assistance. Not much difference to pointing your flashlight at a regular dial.
    
    Reply
    1. Ray says:
      
      Sep 15, 2022 at 07:28
      
      He said last for hours, not last forever , but many say Seiko in a dark room will last all night (after a strong charge)or close to it. Never done that experiment but no reason to doubt them.
      
      Reply
2. jh
  James H says:
  
  Sep 14, 2022 at 13:50
  
  Yep, agreed. Much as I tell myself “no lume if fine,” when I buy a new GS, it always irritates me. GADA must be lumed! And I think there’s no denying Rolex owns this segment. Explorer, OP, DJ, hell even DD. Though I notice the current DD 36s are unlumed??? Madness! Even the ‘mid upper’ brands such as JLC and Blancpain bow out, although I suppose a Master Control date makes a case.
  
  Reply
  1. Stefan says:
    
    Sep 14, 2022 at 23:44
    
    Why don’t you buy the GS tough quartz? Accurate with fantastic lume and anti-magnetic.That’s my GADA.
    
    Reply
3. RV
  ralfybaby says:
  
  Sep 16, 2022 at 22:35
  
  Is it ever that dark anywhere that you need lume?
  
  Reply
FilipEricsson says:

Sep 14, 2022 at 08:51

I’ve longed for a real GADA article, cool! I thought I had the perfect GADA watch in the shape of an OP 36 silver/champagne dial. But my blue SMP (from 2021) actually gets more wrist time. I like that it’s more subtantial on the wrist, especially in Summer combined with short sleeves. And my life is so extremely informal that I never ever need a dressier watch. Even if I always strap one on Christams Eve. So even though I love the GADA niche, my GADA seems to be a beefy diver. The world is a strange place!

Reply
Ron_W says:

Sep 14, 2022 at 08:51

Weird set of parameters for a definition i have not read about before which makes this an interesting read.

GADA by definition is a not so expensive watch, versatile in the sense it can handle in- and outdoors so it can taken a beating ( though is better equiped than a beater watch which is disposable so cheaper – say max 500 euro ) and stays far away from super shiny and or polished surfaces but idealy would have a sapphire crystal and plenty of WR.

This luxury version you propose would make it like the much better known definition of a beach to boardroom watch which can also double as luxury, although not above 5K i think, and that is exactly what you describe here.

So for future reference here is the order from low to high end ;

– beater
– GADA, or GUMA in German
– B to B watch
– Luxury watch
– luxury Rolex watch
– Luxury JLC watches
– Luxury Independents watch
– Luxury New Holy Trinity watch
– Old Trinity Watches
– Hyper watch starting with Richard Mille
– Auction darlings

Reply
1. Warky says:
  
  Sep 14, 2022 at 09:14
  
  I like this list Ron.
  
  JLC have always puzzled me as to where they fit in and you rightly identify that they are essentially a category of their own.
  
  They aren’t in with the cattle in “luxury”, they are superior to Rolex in terms of movements and finishing but they aren’t up there with the Czapeks and Mosers etc.
  
  Where would Blancpain, Breguet and GP fit in here? Are they same level or above JLC?
  
  Reply
  1. Ron_W says:
    
    Sep 14, 2022 at 11:29
    
    Thanks Warky,
    
    Blancpain and Breguet would sure fit nicely within the JLC category, and thanks for reminding me as i forgot to mention both !
    
    Girard Perregaux is a bit more difficult for me to place, their high end lines have some amazing movements like the three bridges and with very modern high tech material used , and design, in the Constant ( force ) Escapements so even with all their history a forward running watchmaker. Their Laureato line is hoovering between JLC ( these ar more sexy than the Master Control lines ) and the Old Trinity i think but those movements , cal 3300 etc , are not all that spectacular although reliable and proven. Still well above the Rolex group in luxury feel.
    
    But….. as JLC stands apart by quite some distance as movementmaker par excellence from anyone else, also used by many of the other brands, and i would hate to shift the nomenclature into foursomes, four Horological Musketeers really suks…, i would really think that JLC deserves a seperate class of it`s own.
    
    Which leaves an entirly new group called the Trinity de la Tradition with Blancpain, Breguet and Girrard Perregaux as that is the most important factor that is caried by all three to set them apart from the other trinities.
    
    And if you agree to be placed on the same step as JLC as surely they are not lesser in luxury. Boy do i love a list !
    
    Reply
    1. jh
      James H says:
      
      Sep 14, 2022 at 13:44
      
      Love a list! I’d put core Blancpain and lower tier Breguet in with JLC. The FP derived movements are diverse and nicely engineered; the cases and dials generally (certainly with Breguet) superior. Some of their movements are superior to JLC too, by quite a way. Of course, it’s all rather infuriating to the list-aholic, because upper tier Blancpain, JLC and GP surely sit above lower tier Patek! Drat!
      
      Reply
      1. Ron_W says:
        
        Sep 14, 2022 at 14:52
        
        We need a spread sheet James !!
        
        Reply
2. MB
  MarkB says:
  
  Sep 15, 2022 at 00:25
  
  I’m perfectly happy sticking with the first two levels.
  
  Reply
Ron_W says:

Sep 14, 2022 at 08:54

Add on, and agree ;

the folks at Grand Seiko are letting the world know that they make the most impressive stainless steel luxury GADA. I don’t disagree.

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1. MG
  maciej-g says:
  
  Sep 14, 2022 at 12:06
  
  I agree… It would be my first choice too, if it had a simple, timeless, elegant, understated dial, not this silvery flickery patterned one…
  
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  1. Ron_W says:
    
    Sep 14, 2022 at 12:46
    
    GS has got a few nice dials for sure that could fit you, and me because the tree bark or waves style is not my favourite either. I did have a black Urushi laquer dial on a GS sbgr079 a few years back and it was gorgious. Not sure if a similair is offered in the current lineup..
    
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    1. MG
      maciej-g says:
      
      Sep 14, 2022 at 13:24
      
      Yes, yes, yes! An Evo 9 with a deep black urushi (or brilliant white, or light cream, they could take the palette from the SARB/SARY) dial would be the “best watch ever”.
      
      Reply
JH
Conor Whitworth says:

Sep 14, 2022 at 09:18

Pretty sure the BB36 has 150m of water resistance.

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1. Marcelo says:
  
  Sep 14, 2022 at 21:18
  
  The steel version has 150m. The twotone version has been updated this year with the inhouse movement, a rounder case with a smaller crown and only 100m wr & a new t-fit clasp. I am excited what the future update of the steel will bring.
  
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MG
maciej-g says:

Sep 14, 2022 at 11:12

Reasonable set of parameters. For me the date is a must, also automatic movement. Lume too… and metal bracelet, reasonable size, 100m WR…

Not a bad selection. Only three-handers? How about Speedmaster 38, IWC Pilot Chrono, Bucherer Manero Peripheral…

I’m very glad to see The Citizen, as it is fantastic, gorgeous and extremely cool. The 0200 would also be a contender. From GS the SBGX261 would also be great.

Some 3-handers that are missing is the Oris Propilot X 403, Nomos Club Neomatic. TAG Heuer Carrera

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1. MG
  maciej-g says:
  
  Sep 14, 2022 at 11:19
  
  –self-correction: the Bucherer should be under the missing 3-handers.
  
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  1. Ron_W says:
    
    Sep 14, 2022 at 12:47
    
    Their peripheral is a stunner as well.
    
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Tamer says:

Sep 14, 2022 at 11:42

For me the GS White Birch SLGH005 beats everyone in this list because it’s

– less pretend brand than the DJ
– less likely to attract thieves than the DJ
– best movement compared to any on the list
– most spectacular dial

It’s my GADA

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1. MG
  maciej-g says:
  
  Sep 14, 2022 at 12:05
  
  It would be mine too if it had a beautiful, simple, elegant timeless dial, not this shiny silvery pattern…
  
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  1. berantle says:
    
    Sep 15, 2022 at 07:42
    
    Then the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat SBGH273 Shubun should suit your needs. Deep blue dial with gold toned seconds hand and GS logo.
    
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Matt says:

Sep 14, 2022 at 12:17

From this list- the Aqua Terra.

What I would add – Sinn 556i. Comes with a ton of color options. Great on strap or bracelet. And sports all of the specs needed for GADA and then some.

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1. Thomas says:
  
  Sep 14, 2022 at 18:44
  
  I do love the Sinn 556i… It just wasn’t “fancy” enough for this particular GADA exercise.
  
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Andrew says:

Sep 14, 2022 at 12:20

Consider vintage. My GADA is a 1956 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Chronometer. It has the 1030 Chronometer movement in a 34 mm case. I recently had it overhauled, including new gaskets throughout. It has rock steady rate at + 2 seconds in 3 days, is safe to wear anywhere as it looks worthless, and I wear it on a NATO strap which is really comfy. Given it’s already more than 60 years old, the case has a handsome patina and a few extra scratches aren’t going to matter.
You have all the benefits of a modern Rolex, with none of the downsides that I can see. You just need to get your head around a 34mm watch on a NATO being an ok size!

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1. RV
  ralfybaby says:
  
  Sep 17, 2022 at 01:36
  
  I agree with vintage, it doesn’t have to be Rolex, many other brands including American brands Waltham, Gruen and Elgin can be worn as GADA watches
  
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2. RS
  Randy says:
  
  Sep 21, 2022 at 03:11
  
  For someone who wants a “Nice” watch for daily use and it has the ability to be worn in a broad variety of situations, I prefer vintage pieces to modern. In my Rolex collection I like to wear my 5512 No Date Sub or my 50’s 2-tone Datejust with red date. I have others that I can dress up or down with for daily use when I want to switch things up. Even my contemporary pieces have a vintage vibe to them as well, such as my Chronswiss Chronograph. Personally, I prefer to wear something slightly different with some worn character and history to it, rather than it be flashy, shiny and new. Something subtle, not austentasious. On the less expensive end of things, again I reach for my older American made pieces, typically from the 30’s or 40’s, although they are mostly smaller in size, they do work well with my suits at work or casual times out.
  
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Keith Leighton says:

Sep 14, 2022 at 13:53

Same old suspects, what about somthing from GO or is that too radical…

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Brandon Wood says:

Sep 14, 2022 at 15:00

I’d pick something from the lower end as a “luxury” GADA. From this list I probably take the Longines Spirit 37. I would consider the Tudor but not that design, I’ll just take the plain steel and black or blue one. In all seriousness though with how nice dive watches are today I am not sure why many can’t meet the GADA role.

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TR
Tomasso says:

Sep 14, 2022 at 17:14

It is admirable to be able to settle on one watch, but why do we have to repeat this oxymoron of a “one watch collection”?

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MB
MarkB says:

Sep 14, 2022 at 18:13

Looking at the qualifications, I’d add two and take away four. Any GADA needs lume and should be able to slip under a shirt cuff. Equally, if the latter is adhered to, I don’t see why bezels shouldn’t be allowed and why there’s a max diameter of 40mm – we come in different shapes and sizes, after all. I really don’t get why a bracelet is essential; not all of us like them and surely a quick-change mechanism allowing the owner to switch between steel, leather, rubber, fabric etc. is much more useful. Finally, why the minimum price level? It seems to me that a decent GADA can be worn in any situation without worry and that becomes increasingly unlikely the higher the value, especially with some of the more recognisable watches on this list.

For me, the best trio of GADAs out there currently are the C. Ward C63 Automatic, the Formex Essence 39 and the Sinn 556i; they have everything a GADA should have at a sensible price.

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1. Andrew says:
  
  Sep 14, 2022 at 20:06
  
  I don’t get this necessity for lume? If I need to know the time in the middle of the night I look at a clock or my phone. If the watch has lume, it’ll be too faded to be useful by 3am sine we don’t have Radium or Tritium any more. Why is lume important?
  
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  1. MB
    MarkB says:
    
    Sep 14, 2022 at 23:23
    
    My lumed watches are great at 3am or even 5am. I don’t need to touch my phone or have a bedside clock. A good GADA doesn’t need back up from a phone or a clock. Lume is essential.
    
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    1. Tagfan1 says:
      
      Sep 15, 2022 at 04:56
      
      I completely agree. I intentionally don’t check my phone in the night so as to avoid seeing annoying messages and depend on my lines watches for this. You could of course use a plugged-in clock, but I find the light they throw off disruptive. Like essential.
      
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  2. JO
    zetaplus93 says:
    
    Sep 15, 2022 at 00:53
    
    Decent lume should last until 3am or 5am…
    
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Rod S says:

Sep 14, 2022 at 22:27

Instead of the Cartier Santos, save a few grand get the Cartier Tank Must XL with the same movement. With the savings, get yourself a nice little BB36 S&G with the old ETA movement and call it a day.

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JO
zetaplus93 says:

Sep 15, 2022 at 00:51

“Luxury GADA” = dressy GADA, or dare I say it, boring GADA?

As a few have mentioned, no lume kills the GADA requirement IMO. Plenty of other choices out there, especially with a fixed or rotating bezel.

Give me an Explorer or Explorer II any day of the week for a true luxury GADA.

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berantle says:

Sep 15, 2022 at 08:11

If it’s going to be a Go-Anywhere-Do-Anything watch, I would want a watch that I have no qualms about wearing them while doing rough work/activities. Only 2 of the watches featured above meet that extra criteria for me. That’s the Longines Spirit 37mm and the Ball Engineer III Marvelight. However, I would not choose the Ball Engineer III Marvelight as I have a strong dislike of any top-side cyclops magnifier. As an alternative to that, the Ball Engineer M Marvelight does not have the cyclops date magnifier but is substantially the same watch otherwise (including the COSC Chronometer certified movement).

Short of needing the watch to bear up to the rough work/activities, I would go for a more unassuming watch like the Grand Seiko SBGA373 (Spring Drive movement, Champagne sunburst dial with blued seconds hand, 40.0mm diameter, lug-to-lug 46.2mm and thickness of 12.5mm). Totally flies under the radar except for those in the know.

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1. RL
  Ronny says:
  
  Sep 16, 2022 at 10:24
  
  Speaking of “under the radar” the Citizen chronomasters are particularly good in this category, I thank Thomas for including one in this list. The AQ4020-54W version with lume is even more GADA, sportier and sparkling. 23 jewels for a solar quartz movement it smells of quality and longevity, especially with Japanese expertise. Totally under the radar I tell you!
  
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  1. Andrew says:
    
    Sep 17, 2022 at 22:07
    
    23 jewels for Quartz sounds odd. There are only 4 moving parts in the going train of a Quartz watch, so 8 jewels would fully jewel the going train. What are the other 15 jewels doing? Sounds suspiciously like the “jewel inflation” that our Japanese cousins were famous for in the 70s….
    
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JJ
James Jones says:

Sep 15, 2022 at 11:39

You forgot to mention that they all needed to be the size of a ladies watch. Color selection is hideous.

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RV
ralfybaby says:

Sep 17, 2022 at 02:03

When I was younger, before the world was conquered by watch nerddom and horological dweebishness, we had a name for what us these days called a GADA watch.

We would go buy something that told time but really did not need anything else but we did want a second hand so a three hander was nice.
Date was nice to have too.
Lume. Hell yeah. It wasn’t brightly lit everywhere like it is these days.
We weren’t divers so we didn’t need a bezel but we wanted some water resistance for if it rained and we would not have to be so careful when washing hands..
A steel strap because leather would rip and tear and if you got meat sauce or mud or snot or slime or sand on it it would clean off so much easier.
And it wiuld have to be a bit sturdy so if you dropped it it wouldn’t break.

It worked with shirt and tie and with a t shirt and jeans and with a polo and a jacket. It worked for a job interview as long as you showed up on time and were qualified for your new job.

You could even wear one to a wedding or a funeral because given the context of such big life events nobody really cared what kind of watch you wore.

We called it ………..

a watch!

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CG
Noush says:

Sep 17, 2022 at 13:33

I could no more have a single watch than I could eat the same thing for dinner every night for the rest of my life.
That said, I think you picked the wrong Grand Seiko. The SBGA373 (Spring Drive 44GS) has it all for a bunch less cash. Yes I have one and I love it.

But just the same, if there is more watch in this category for less money than the Spirit 37, then I haven’t seen it. Longines nailed this one.

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Andrew says:

Sep 23, 2022 at 18:25

I’m going to introduce the thought that aGADA watch shouldn’t be an automatic. All automatics that I know manage overwind by arranging a yoke on the mainspring which slips when the spring is fully wound. That prevents damage to the automatic mechanism.
I used to run 10k several times a week, and made the mistake of using an automatic watch to time my runs. Within 6 months I had worn the spring yoke out, and it would no longer take a wind at all. New barrel and spring required…..
Probably the nearest thing to a true GADA watch is a humble Casio digital……,,

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Homme says:

Nov 12, 2023 at 20:14

I’m going to throw three curveballs here. First, I’ll suggest that an Oris ProPilotX would make for a very nice GADA watch that would provide some serious competition to the watches on this list, were it not for its rather toolish pilot watch DNA. Second, I’ll venture that if Oris added to its lineup a highly finished Aquis or Divers Sixty-Five variant with no diving bezel and a Calibre 400 movement, it might blow out of the water most of the watches on this list, especially for the price. Third, I’d suggest replacing the rather pedestrian Longines on this list for a more elegant Fears Brunswick 38mm, a more interesting and dressier GADA watch with the same ETA movement (though likely even more highly regulated).

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