Wow. Just wow. Even after all this time, after the thousands of watches that have passed through my hands and over my wrist, it is still possible to have my breath snatched from my throat. I didn’t think I cared for gold watches. I guess I was wrong again. Congratulations, Grand Seiko, the SBGW258 60th Anniversary model has officially turned my head.

I think it’s about time we started reviewing some truly terrible watches so you get the chance to see the uglier side of my character. All this syrupy loveliness is wearing a bit thin. But I’m afraid there’s nothing for it when it comes to the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Recreation SBGW258. It’s just too good.

I believe GS has delivered.

It is understandably/unfortunately expensive, but when it is pleasing to see (from a fanboy’s perspective) that the brand has taken pains to ensure it is worth every cent. And while I may not have enough cents to put my money where my mouth is, I believe GS has delivered.

sbgw258

Reduced to brilliance

I read recently that good design is not achieved when there is nothing left to add, but rather when there is nothing left to take away. That theory is in full-force here. Grand Seiko has reduced the design of the SBGW258J to sheer brilliance. The focus is on the refinement and execution of every individual element and the result is truly stunning.

…one of the finest novelties of 2020.

The off-white dial, the polished, expertly faceted and applied gold indices, the sharp handset that blends the wide, angular modernism of the hour and minute pointers with the deliciously vintage seconds hand, the pared-back dial text between six and center, the minute track, self-confident in its simplicity, and a case that is just about as well-proportioned as I can imagine the case of an occasional dress watch to be, combine to bring us what could well be one of the finest novelties of 2020.

SBGW258

Timeless and wearable

You’ve heard the buzzwords before. In fact, it’s quite possible that the sound of someone whispering either of them within a 10km radius of your ears might cause them to bleed. If that’s the case, I apologize. But this watch is both timeless and wearable.

…a low profile height on the wrist…

Its 38mm 18-karat gold case does not wear as diminutively as that figure may suggest on paper. This is thanks to the relatively slim bezel, a light-catching domed sapphire, and a low profile height on the wrist of just 10.9mm. Quite unsurprisingly, the SBGW258J is only water-resistant to 3 bar. Impressively, however, its performance is unaffected by magnetic fields of up to 4,800 gauss.

SBGW258

Why now?

So why is Grand Seiko dropping such a seminal release like the SBGW258 in the middle of 2020? What’s the significance? Well, if you haven’t heard already, GS is celebrating its 60th anniversary this year. That’s an even more significant milestone in Japanese culture than it is in the rest of the world. That’s thanks to the belief that anyone spending 60 years on this Earth has witnessed a full rotation of the Zodiac. It is, therefore, a time for new beginnings. And what better way to mark the completion of one cycle and the commencement of another than with an updated model of the brand’s original timepiece from 1960.

A more faithful and worthwhile reedition is hard to find.

This reedition has grown from 35mm to 38, and is fitted with the highly accurate 9S64 caliber. It is a manually-wound movement boasting performance between -3 and +5 seconds per day. The 9S64, which packs a sufficient 72-hour power reserve, is visible through a sapphire display back. Appreciating the finishing standards of Grand Seiko is nothing new. And yet, somehow, this is an exceptional model for a brand that has started to make exceptionalism the norm. It is an immediate icon. A more faithful and worthwhile reedition is hard to find. And for €27,000, the beautiful SBGW258 can join your collection. This model, and two other versions in platinum 950 (SBGW257 €39,000) and brilliant titanium (SBGW259, €8,300), will be available from Grand Seiko boutiques starting in June 2020. Learn more here.

Watch specifications

Brand
Model
60th Anniversary Recreation
Reference
SBGW258
Case Material
18-karat gold
Case Dimensions
38mm diameter, 10.9mm height
Crystal
Domed sapphire
Case Back
Sapphire
Movement
9S64
Water Resistance
30 meters
Strap
Leather
Price
€27,000
Special Note(s)
Hands curved to follow the contour of the crystal